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Lucky Phil

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Posts posted by Lucky Phil

  1. If you look at the bearings in an old loop, they are tapered rollers with a proper separate seal, it's little wonder the later Guzzis chew up bearings so fast. An ox cart in comparison.

    Cant agree, most modern bikes use single row ball wheel bearings without issues. Most have proper length spacers though. 

     

    Ciao

  2.  

    Hi

     

    just a word of warning based on my own experiences. My V11 has around 75K miles on it and up to 60K miles, it was eating wheel bearings quite regularly, 3 times at the front and 4 at the rear. Being a suspicious sort, I then checked the bearing spacer length and compared it to the distance between the bearing mounting faces, and found the front was 0.2mm undersize and the rear 0.5mm(!). I then reassembled new bearings with bearing shims to correct the problem and have had no problems since.

     

    The bearings incidentally are very common sizes, and are available anywhere. Two frustrations for me are the lack of any weather protection, just the rubber seals on the bearings, and those bloody different sizes at the front.......

     

    Cheers

     

    Guzz

    Based on this report I decided to measure the spacer on my 02.  I found the the spacer was 0.5 mm too long for the distance between the wheel flanges. This was easy to fix because a machine shop reports to me.  Now I know why the bearings were shot at 30K miles.

     

    .5mm or .020" over length bearing spacer will not cause premature bearing failure. Under length certainly will but that degree of over length wont be an issue.

     

    Ciao

  3. Just to let people Know Joe is producing his V11 Steel timing gears again. Contact ....joe.caruso@ntlworld.com

    I have a set and can vouch for their quality, although I havent gotten around to fitting them. They are so nice seems a shame to hide them inside the engine:)

    Heres an historical link.

    BTW I have no commercial interest here, just supporting quality engineering.

     

    http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?s=aeffc913faaff2a5845e6e6f02bf4770&showtopic=18899&page=2

     

    Ciao

  4.  

    For a race engine I would use a gear set. It absorbs less power and the disadvantages mentioned above are not detrimental for an engine that is always working at high rpm.

     

     

    A chain is actually a more efficient transmitter of power than a gear train. Typical chain losses are around 1%, gears around 3% or more.

    Ciao

  5. Hi there, 

     

    Im looking to alter my (already stunning) V11, which I bought in may 2014, to a more caferacer look and Im wondering if anyone knows where I could find a seat similar to this awesome ride, owned by a guy called Dottor Larry.

    attachicon.gifMGV11 Dottor Larry.jpg

     

    Preferably in Europe, since I live in the Netherlands.

     

    Or perhaps anyone has tips how to create one myself.

     

     

    Thanks in advance. 

     

    Martin

    Thats horrible.

     

    Ciao

  6. They are same

    No they're not actually. The early 1999-2000ish like my bike have a heavy tail assy made of some sort of composite material with internal walls on the side for want of a better explaination where the later versions 2003 and later (maybe) are a light and quite flimsy (more modern style) of ABS and just a single skin on the sides. 

    I have both at home, the latter off a Balibio and it looks like it will fit on my 2000 year model spare subframe without any issues.

    The later type also uses an additional removable bracket at the rear for the rear mount positions.

    Ciao

  7. You know I didnt actually check the diameter of the shifter fork boss when I got the kit,probably should have I guess. I worked on the assumption that if Guzzi was producing an upgrade kit with a new shifter fork assy included then it would be the type with the reduced boss dia.

    The major changes seem to be the addition of an accentric and the banana link connecting the 2 gear wheel shafts. I dont really know why they even included the new shifter fork assy as it seemed to be no different to the original one in my bike which had the smaller dia boss. I just assumed that they included the latest reduced dia boss shifter fork assy as a precaution in case you had the faulty type.

    From my understanding the larger dia boss on the shifter fork that causes spring breakage was due to a manufacturing defect. ie a bad batch, not a design problem. Thats why  the earlier bikes didnt suffer.

    Ciao 

  8. What an excellent upgrade for the early bikes! L/Phil - how many miles/km on your Sport?

    40,000klms, its shifting was acceptable but not brilliant, and the lever used to stick for a fraction of a second on completing an  upshift occasionally. I had replaced the return spring previously.

    BTW I refilled the trans with the same oil which was only 1500klms old so new oil wasnt a factor.

     

    Ciao 

  9. Well I finally got round to doing my gearbox shifter upgrade and took the bike for a run this morning.

    I'm a pretty hard marker with these things and dont believe in talking up something that doesnt work even if it has cost me money.

    The kit comes with a new cover ( with additional eccentric adjuster), shifter fork, return spring a banana plate and replacement detent arm pivot and no selector shaft seal.

    Its a fairly easy task to transfer all the original parts that are going to stay to the new cover.

    As the photos show the new accentric seems to be there to limit the shifter fork assy from too much sideways movement. The original cover had a non adjustable roll pin for this purpose that gave about 1.5mm clearance to the arm.

    I set the accentric to give about 0.2mm clearance to the arm at a minimum during shifting.

    The main accentric was also adjusted of course so that in 2nd gear and upwards selections the shifter fork hooks were centered on the drum pins.

    So whats it like? is it worth the trouble and cost ( kit cost is $125us) Remember my bike is a 2000 model and I believe the 2003 and later bikes already have this system as std.

    Having said all that its a definite improvement. Shifting is more precise and solid, shifting with or without the clutch ( I usually up shift from 2nd gear on without using the clutch) probably as good as my Ducati's now. 

    So its for each person to consider the worth I guess.

     

     

    Ciao

  10. Pete I was listening recently to a well known radio presenter that had come up with an inovative design for something and when he investigated the possibiltiy of going into production the professional advise he got was that it wasnt worth the effort as within 6 months a cheap Chinese copy would be on the market and his wouldnt sell. Talk about killing inovation and invention.

    Ciao 

  11.  

    Just received my  upgrade cover and shifter kit. Now I just need the time to  install it.

    Ciao

    whats this about, ie what parts and why is it an upgrade?

     

    New cover with extra excentric adjuster, the shifter pawl, a banana shaped link the joins the two gear wheel pins as in a previous photo on this thread,new springs and a few other bits and pieces. Naturally doesnt come with the shifter shaft seal fitted to the cover or included.

    Will report on the outcome when I fit it up.

    My gearbox shift lever sometimes semi sticks for a fraction and you feel it tap the top of your boot after the shift has been done. I've already changed the shifter springs so this upgrade with additional adjustment and extra support for the selector gear pivot pins should shift better...I hope.

    Ciao

  12. Ummmm, Im thinking not so good what do you guys reckon?

     

    V11 cafe sport was brought with new cam amongest other things... the exhaust valves recently burnt out and were replaced

    1000k on and a exhaust tappit clearance went from .015 to 3mm

    re adjusted it and is now after 400km loose as hell again...

     

    What do you think the corse could be???

    starts with C ends with M and has a A in the middle?

    So it went from .015mm which is way to tight to 3.0mm,is that right?

    Any valve that picks up nearly 3mm of clearance in 1000klms has obviously got major issues most likely a wiped out lifter and cam lobe. 

    Why on earth would you even bother to adjust it. it needs the head pulled off and the lifters inspected for damage.

    Ciao

  13.  

     

    Here's a shot of the acorn nut cover, and the actual eccentric adjust and (flanged!) jambnut.

     

    That's not a flange, it's a washer.

    Aha. Well I will try again! I thought it looked like a washer too, but it wouldn't come off... I will coax it off and see if I have a thin walled socket to fit. Thanks!

     

    Because the washer is thing the dome nut will have crushed it a little and it will have deformed into the threads. You'll need to grab the OD with some pliers and screw it off.

    Ciao 

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