Lucky Phil
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Posts posted by Lucky Phil
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6 minutes ago, Chuck said:
There are two things that go wrong. Bad starter or bad solenoid. When I had the Mighty Scura in SoCal, the solenoid started sticking and blowing fuses. Mark at MG Classics had a big box of them from when he warranted them as a dealer. He told me to rummage through them and find one with a dropped magnet, take the solenoid off, and replace it on mine. Did that, and it was fine for several years until last year in BF Wisconsin. Brought it home, took it apart, cleaned, etc. Worked fine on the bench. Once it got hot, like stopping for a gas stop, though..
I'm entirely too old to bump start this big girl.
Bought one off Amazon for 60 some bucks. It *appears* to be very well made, and works fine. Fine enough that when the Bosch on the Aero Lario started acting up, I threw it onto the "rebuildable Guzzi junk" pile with tag on it and bought another Amazon special. They are cheaper than buying parts to rebuild the stock starters..
What brand was the Amazon one Chuck, for future reference?
Ciao
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42 minutes ago, Gio said:
I rode one-way from BC (Burnaby) to Halifax (via PEI and Cape Breton) on (my pre-V11) Zephyr 750 many years ago ... awesome journey! Took as many detours as time would allow (eg Highway 3 out of BC rather than trans-Can ... but you likely know that already) ... but to your second question - ferries to/from NL would have (will) add quite significant time / $ to the journey - although an awesome place to visit if you can - including perhaps the best fish and chips on the planet! And don't forget NS ...
Best of luck with your purchase and journey - no matter which route you choose.
Gio
Big call:)
Ciao
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7 minutes ago, po18guy said:
Maybe Paine Field? I would still lean toward aircraft welders, as they are under more scrutiny. And, leave it to Guzzi to make the engine a stressed member, but only via the timing cover(?) Back to Jeep: they did the motor mount on the timing cover of their technically advanced OHC 230 six cylinder in the early 60s and had nothing but oil leaks. Solved by using block mounts but the die had been cast, so to speak.
Yes an aircraft welder would be a good start. Mounts on the cover are a good thing, I've had a few Ducati engine mounts repaired and they are part of the main case. I'd rather just replace a removable cover than weld the cases. The Ford Ecoboost 4 cylinder engine has one engine mount incorporated in the timing chain cover and is no problem as does quite a few 4 cylinder FWD engines.
Ciao
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3 minutes ago, LangleyMalc said:
,Balabio will not start. Lots of volts to solenoid when you push the starter button, so pulled the starter and the solenoid is toast about 80% of the time on the bench. Pulled the solenoid off the starter and cleaned and silicones the plunger but no better. The starter motor itself works ok but can be reluctant to get going.
seems tome that I need a new solenoid or a new starter or probably most safely both. Any suggestions and where do I get a new starter or solenoid?
There always seems to be lots of new ones on ebay. Cant comment on their quality but they are readily available. Seems an intermittent solenoid would be fixable.I would imagine a toasted solenoid would just not work period. Kiwi Roy will have some ideas I'm sure.
Ciao
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6 hours ago, fotoguzzi said:
That is also a Tonti frame motor so wont have the mounting boss for your V11..Have you tried a dealer to see if the part is available new?
the crack you have fairly common on a crashed V11, see another broken one here,
Yes I saw that on ebay when I was having a look for the OP. Some people will try to make a dollar from anything. I've seen clowns selling Ducati matched crankcase pairs as separate listings.
Ciao
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27 minutes ago, LowRyter said:
Tinus, Did you pull the little Guzzi emblem off the old one or pay small fortune for another?
Phil, I'll look for some metal sleeves to reinforce the mounting tabs. You recommend aluminum? Just drill the CF and insert the sleeves? Glue them in or not?
Well the wall thickness on the outside of the mount looks a bit thin for an insert but they are quite deep so thats good. Generally the item needs to be designed for the insert. I'd just flatten the mounting faces off on a plate if possible then screw it down without too much force with some blue loctite. When you bolt it down look to see if it tends to distort and load up the mounts too much. When this happens I usually use some small thin homemade rubber washers under the mounts and then torque up lightly with the loctite.
Ciao
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The main advantage of the fine wire platinum plugs is longevity. Modern engines with these plugs often have change out intervals of 80,000 klms. Old style plugs wont go this sort of mileage without maintenance. Of course there's also all the other supposed advantages but for an old Guzzi engine I am happy to stick with the old style plugs.
One thing I dont like about the fine wire plugs is once they are fouled they are generally done. Almost never clear and dont respond well to cleaning either. If you do manage to recover a fouled plug they seem far more susceptible to it happening again and in a modern engine where plug access is often quite painful I just bin them and fit a new one.
Old style plugs dont seem to be an issue though, clean em up and there're good to go again.
Ciao
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1 hour ago, maxv11 said:
Hi @Lucky Phil thanks for the info. Appears my only hope here is to repair it until a second hand V11 cover can be had. So, kind of lucky here as the break was clean. I can still fit the broken piece in relatively flush. There is a bit of a gap as you can see. Below are the pics for reference! Thanks again!
Hopefully these work...
https://pasteboard.co/IUxFfJt.jpg
Thats an annoying break to repair as its also broken through or adjacent to one of the 6 mm mount holes. Its really 2 repairs, one for the cracking near the small mount hole and another for the major mount. From the images I think I'd be inclined to remove the mount repair the smaller crack then refit the main mount back in the correct position and weld repair it.
As usual the devil's in the detail and all the cracks and weld areas need to be V'ed out to get good weld penetration and expertly welded and the mounting faces machined true again. You generally heat the case to around 150 deg C before welding to minimise the distortion. It's quite a process and would probably be cheaper to buy a second hand case if you can find one.
I'd exhaust all the Guzzi parts suppliers such as Reboot spares, HMB, etc that deal in second hand stuff or wait for an ebay item.
I have a friend here that could repair it but he's currently out of action health wise. I'd imagine he would charge around $200US plus there would be postage on top. Just to give you an idea of the costs that someone that's expert in these things would charge.
BTW if you need another front frame support I may be able to help you out for cheap.
Ciao
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4 hours ago, LowRyter said:
I got the "last one" for $78. Should look great since the Greenie has the factory CF bikini fairing.
BTW- does it replace the factory cover or attach over it?
Replaces.
Ciao
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4 minutes ago, maxv11 said:
I just realized...the G5 cover may fit the actual motor but it does not have the upper frame mounts like the V11 timing cover...
An image of the damage would be helpful. Most things can be successfully repaired by the right people.
Ciao
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12 minutes ago, maxv11 said:
Hi everyone, first post but long time reader. I have acquired a 2003 V11. Unfortunately it was laid down and the right side timing chain cover cracked and broke off where the frame mount is
. I was hoping to have it repaired but it actually pushed in the cover and is no longer flush!
So, being that there are literally NO V11 timing chain covers in the world apparently...I see that MAYBE a G5 V1000 cover will fit?? From comparing a photo of one on eBay to mine they look almost identical apart from some of the obvious things. The one for sale has numbers : 18001450 on the inside.
The inside of the G5 cover is very comparable to the V11. Appears to have same cutouts, mounts, etc...The outside is a bit different but doesnt appear to effect install. The G5 cover has two screw plugs on top, the V11 is casted closed. There is also a capped nut on the front of the G5 cover, the V11 is again casted closed.
Any info on this anyone could share would be killer! I don't want to miss the chance on this cover for sale.
Thanks mates!
Others can chime in here but the cover your'e looking at(G5 1000) is from a Tonti framed bike and doesn't even have the front mounts your cover has broken if I understand you correctly. It also wont have the same alternator so the front of the crank nose will be different and the alternator wont fit the case.
My suggestion would be without having an image of the damage would be to cut the original mount off and position it correctly and have an aircraft welder weld it back on or preferably someone well versed in welding cast crankcases until you can source a second hand unit.
Ciao
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I must say the mounts look quite thick and robust depth wise anyway. Others I have seen have mounts about 2mm thick.
Ciao
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You guys have great taste in music. I've learned a lot here.
Ciao
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4 hours ago, footgoose said:
It shouldn't break. Minor sand blasting, maybe a chip here and there. Easy enough to keep polished with a fine abrasive aluminum/metal polish like Flitz or equal. Maybe a respray with clear. Looks great and less than 100US seems cheap enough!
At that price I'd be interested to know if the mount points have aluminium inserts. Cheap CF guards and such generally dont and this prevents you getting the full torque on the fastener so it doesn't loosen off all the time and if you do tighten them properly then the mounts end up cracking due to stress.
If it doesn't have the inserts then I suggest you install the fasteners with blue loctite and tighten them down to a minimal torque and also use a thin rubber washer under the mounts of a mm or so thickness. Stops the non insert type mounts from fatiguing and the loctite prevents the screws backing off due to low torque installation.
Ciao
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Try Stein Dinse they have 3 options. The -Z part numbers are aftermarket equivalents.Outer 159.9 cm inner 144.5 cm. (62' and 61/64ths by 56' and 57/64ths )
Ciao
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22 minutes ago, docc said:
Here is a source for parts catalogs. Not sure which applies to your '98 EV ( not in my paygrade ). . .
But, seriously, actually calling Gordon or Curtis will get you to the bottom of it pretty quickly!
I haven't worked on an EV, but suspect a clutch cable change could require tank removal (?) . . .
You might be able to pull the new one through attached to the end of the old one docc and avoid the tank off.
Ciao
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51 minutes ago, cash1000 said:
With a little help from MartyNZ I have solved my gear box problem. The cause was a peg that had fallen out of the gearbox selection panel. When I took the panel off I found the peg in the bottom of the gearbox. It had fallen out of the hole that's indented it the middle the panel. Thankfully it had not caused any damage to the gears. After we had checked there was nothing else wrong with the panel we hammered the peg back into the panel after coating it with medium Loctite. I see later model V11’s have a nut & bolt to replace the peg. I presume that someone else had this problem. Anyway bike changes gear fine now. I checked the frame number and its within the range that its it eligible for the transmission upgrade. I need to follow up on this.
Later bikes have an eccentric adjuster instead of the roll pin. Cant really see it makes any difference to shift action unless you have the adjustment wrong.
Early recall transmissions needed upgraded selector sleeves and belville washers on the output shaft damper.
Acquiring the parts may be an issue these days if it hasn't been done and the entire trans need to be disassembled.
Ciao
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10 minutes ago, knumbnutz said:
I don't have either the internal pump tank or the pump. I was looking at V7 pumps and V11 pumps etc and the mounting plates from the pics is ... similar size.
In typical MG fashion, it would make plenty of sense to use a same size to reduce stock requirements, so I thought it might be possible.
So the tank on a V11 with a internal tank pump and external pump are different lengths....?
Gonna have to check that because it would be a deal breaker for what I want. I have both those bikes, will look tonight. I would assume the Ballabio tank is same as the Cafe Sport tank I have then, both with internal pumps.. The other custom bike is a 2001 V11 Lemans with external pump. I'll have to check frame length but they both have under gearbox mounts and I thought that meant the frame length is the same?
Yes the later one is longer by 20mm as mentioned. Fwd of the fwd mount.
I would have thought that the bike with the extra gearbox support struts would be the longer frame with the in tank pump. Does this bike have the later front engine support frame with the aft mounted tube pair running straight down to the front engine mount? Like your other V11 does.The earlier front frame supports had these struts running more horizontal and intersecting the fwd tubes running to the front engine mounts around the mid point.
Ciao
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23 minutes ago, knumbnutz said:
Is this an in tank fuel pump or external?
External there is a cheap bosch fuel pump, I got one for $130AU new from a car parts place.
I was also thinking about getting a tank that takes the in-tank pump and wondered if any of the other models from guzzi took the same pump system/ mounts as they all look roughly the same shape and size where they bolt to the tank from the pics but not sure if identical or just close. Would anyone know for sure?
The link shows an external pump and my bikes external pump plastic outlets are white so I assumed its external however the 02 parts manual shows internal pump. Internal aftermarket pump kits are as cheap as chips so that also made me think external.
The issue with the in tank pump is the tank is longer from the fwd mounts to the tune of around 20mm due to the longer frame. I just tried one of my spare internal pump tanks on my bike and it limits the steering lock too much to use but mines reduced as it is with the tank lifted 40 mm at the front anyway.
I dont know about the pump mounting plate. I have one that I could take an image of an give you the dimensions if that helps.
Ciao
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19 hours ago, western trucker said:
Hi there
I was showing a mate the progress on bike and noticed a fuel line out of place picked up end to see a white plastic piece in there and thought I don’t remember putting that In there.
Looked at fuel pump bugger it had broken off pump so in the market for new fuel pump went to guzzi agent to see about pump only to be told $1390 the parts guys stammered as he read it yeah nah I find one elsewhere where or what pump do you guys run.
Any leads appreciated my bike is a 2002 scura.
Regards
Lucky it didnt break when you were riding. Imagine fuel pumping out at 3 bar all over a hot engine.
Ciao
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9 hours ago, Tinus89 said:
Replaced the old & tired alternator guard with a flashy CFRE one.
Old
New
Downside: now the oil cooler guard is ugly...
It looks nice but when you look at the grief the original one cops from road debris I wonder about the logic of replacing it with something more fragile. Its pretty now for sure but it wont last. Carbon Fibre.......21st century chrome:)
I just repainted my oil cooler guard the std black because the powder coat was flaking off in big chunks on the mounts. Black is best as it blends in better.
Ciao
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5 hours ago, GuzziMoto said:
That is easy to say until you hear them talking about how their brakes were "gone" from about halfway through the race and the had to run the last half just downshifting to slow down.
No worries, I have great respect for those that do. But I will stick to racebikes with good brakes.
Yes, if you've been on a racetrack you will know that brakes are more important than horsepower.
Far and away the best thing about riding a modern bike is the fact you use zero mental capacity compensating for the poor performance of machine dynamics compared to even 1980's bikes.
Forget worrying about fading brakes,gearbox shifting woes, ground clearance,poor suspension, brakes that dont work in the wet, etc etc. Get on it and focus 100% on the riding. The bike is way better than you are.
Ciao
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9 hours ago, 68C said:
And another chance for me to mention the corrosion issue with carbon fibre and aluminium alloy. They must not be in direct contact but well separated, preferably with electrically insulating washers etc. Otherwise those lovely Ohlin mudgaurd mounts will corrode to dust. Carbon fibre is not plastic.
Interesting.In 35 years of mounting carbon guards to Ohlins forks I've never seen this and have never even heard of it. My bikes all have carbon parts mounted to ally everywhere, to swingarms petrol tanks exhaust systems. never had an issue. Same working on commercial jets, aluminium fitting brackets washers etc mounting carbon flight control panes etc, never had an issue. I've even had race bikes with carbon tanks with embedded aluminium fuel fittings etc without issue.
Ciao
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15 minutes ago, knumbnutz said:
Hi all,
I was looking at my Cafe Sport and Griso which are nose to tail in my garage at the moment. I had a semi epiphany as it were that the ohlins carbon front guard thats on the Cafe Sport looks like it will line up perfectly with the Griso guard mounts. So then I start thinking if that is the case then other guards will fit the Griso since the Cafe Sport ohlins/Griso are fairly generic and there should be at least a Ducati and aprilia with the same setup.
But getting back to the real question, my customised V11 has a stock guard and I think that guard/mounts are only found on this bike, yes?
If this is the case, has anyone tried fitting another guard and made adapters to suit ?
I'm thinking I will get a Ducati S2R or similar guard and just make a set of adapters as they seem to be easily available CF guards...
Pretty much. All the V11's used the same style guard but with double mount points on the front and 1 behind the forks so 3 per leg except on the Ohlins bikes. Ohlins equipped models had the same general design but with different mounts like your bike 1 mount point front and rear.
My 1198 ohlins equipped bike has 2 mounts/side front only as does my 1000ss. The Guzzi style guard is unique and a PITA for removal and install as you need to pull the front wheel and calipers.
Ducati you can remove and install easily, 4 bolts and a brake line grommet and its off. Race bred engineering.
Ciao
Starter motor solenoid is u/s
in Technical Topics
Posted
Thanks Chuck
Ciao