Cabernet

No need. On the underside of your top yoke there are the bosses ready to be drilled to take bars. I used Renthal CL003 bar mounts and an 828-50 Fatbar with bar ends and G176 grips.

Check the con rod from the pivot to the gearbox input spline. They are a cheap pressed plate abortion. I found mine stiff and erratic in operation. I replaced mine with a quality aftermarket upgrade from a bearing factors outlet and my gear shift improved no end. I have had the plate off and still wouldn't know how to set the cam blind.

@docc, thank you for the kind appraisal.

It'll show the up chain lube fling and brake dust less.

Thanks, I will check it out later.

The small scale at the top is an indication of one's progress through the programmed journey.

Not a c!ue what that means.

Cheers Docc. I don't know what I'm doing wrong. The img code works fine on two other forums.

Whenever I read a write-up on a product, I always wonder about the CV of the writer and what kind of rider they are. So; In almost all groups I have spent any significant time with, I have tended to find myself the lead navigator, be it on foot, cycle, motorcycle or car. From a young age (7 in 1972) I did milk rounds with my Dad on Saturdays (and school holidays) and he being a supervisor, saw over four different rounds. So I learnt my way around Gravesham early and was always taking my friends on cycle rides that looking back probably would have made their parents cringe had they known or actually believed the stories their child told. This carried me through my ATC years where I learnt to map read in conjunction with the sun, setting me right for my outward bound hiking adventures and of course into motorcycling in the UK and €pe. 2005 and I find myself out of work and I take up a 5 year stint as a courier. Armed with A-Z on Manchester, Liverpool, Sheffield, Leeds & London on board, complimented with a top notch UK road atlas with city centre maps, I would have to be going out into the wilds to call on my phones sat-nav capabilities. I always found that once I found an address by maps, I wouldn’t need the map again. Go by Sat-nav and I would need to use the Sat-nav next time too (just as I can never remember a route someone else has led), so Sat-navs have never really been a thing for me. Then there was the spaghetti of wiring that is still required by Tom-toms and Garmins today. Plus the empty cradles for said make the bikes dash look like a cannibalized cyborg. Then there is the security at your destination, carrying £300+ of waterproof Sat-Nav with you while sightseeing. Read through our forum and you’ll find a plenty the question asked, “Which is the current best Sat-Nav” to which you’ll frequently find my response, “A map”. By now you’ll probably gather I am not a Sat-Nav fan. However, in 2015 events conspired that I headed off on holiday with a bunch of strangers (then) who were going by Sat-nav. They put on a very good tour, but they didn’t just tell the Sat-Nav the destination and follow it. They used a technique I use when planning a ride, only they to a far greater extent. I will jump on google maps and at every junction I will go on street view and ride the junction virtually (on line) finding visual land marks. They go further, and ride the whole route and ditch a road if it is too straight or too rough. I have since toured with them twice more and I started to see the merits of a Sat-Nav used as an aid, rather than a guide. 2020 and lockdown is in full swing and I am browsing Tom-toms and Garmins and trying to justify £300-400+ for something that would only get occasion use, and then only for small segments of my Sunday rides. Having ridden out from Manchester for closing on 20 years and establish multiple routes to any point on the compass, my routes tend to avoid towns have few road changes and be on B-roads. But after said 20 years of Sunday ride-outs, even this variety of destinations spanning from Builth Wells to Skegness to Kielder water gets repetitive. However I know there are a multitude of good minor roads to explore in between, they are just awkward to navigate between. Hence considering a dreaded Sat-Nav. So to the Beeline Then all of a sudden I discover the “Beeline.co”. A third the price of a regular motorcycle Sat-nav, it is unobtrusive on the bar or mirror stalk and removed from the bike, is so small and light to carry, easily in a jeans pocket, bumbag with a phone and wallet in it or in the Mrs’ clutch bag. The Beeline offers turn by turn navigation directions in a simple format. In truth it is not actually a Sat-Nav at all in my opinion. It is a second screen for your phone that is rated to IP68. That means it is dust proof and water proof to a depth of one meter (or one yard). It connects to a smart phone by blue tooth, upon which is installed the Beeline navigation app for which the Beeline unit has like a software key (or dongle) to activate the app. A destination is input into the phone and way points can be added. Then press “Go” and the Beeline screen starts dishing out the directions as the route is progresses. It is possible to offset the starting point. This means a route can be planned from a future start point days or months into the future. Not much different to a conventional Sat-nav I hear the cry! Well here’s the differences, which can be positive or negative depending on view points; * There is no limit on maps. It will work anywhere in the world where a phone location can be accessed. * The display does not show a plan view map. It has a simple arrow showing the way to go plus a distance to the next turn, junction, roundabout, waypoint or destination (whichever is next). On a Garmin in the top corner you get similar information that is displayed on the Beeline. * There is no audible notifications (which can be bliss). * There is no cabling on the handlebars. The beeline has a 30 hour in use battery life. That is three days solid riding by anyone’s standard and the charger is compact and plugs into any USB port. * Data usage is suprisingly low. My sim-only package has 1GB of data per month and a good spin round Wales barely showed on the data graph. * Phone battery usage, well my phone is getting on and didn’t have the longest life from new. I have wired a USB port under the seat of my Nevada so that the phone is on constant charge. That said I have run it for a few hours on a full charge and it zapped 40%, but I can do a similar drain with social media over the same time span. In the images you can see that which appears on the phone. My start point in the east in Heathersage and the end point in the west in Denton Manchester with some northern waypoints I used to false the route. At the start I was on the far side of a car park and the Beeline is guiding 47 metres to the road. In the other shot on route you can see I am 8.9 miles from a roundabout, where I am to take the second exit. The white dot at one o’clock tells me the exit is just to the right of straight on. The faint grid lines tell me I am approximately half way through my total journey. On my motorway the roundabout symbol is replaced by a motorway junction symbol and junction number. I put this route together over a breakfast without a map or accessing the internet. The route the Beeline led me was true to my input. Unfortunately, I did not pay enough attention to my last way point and it took me up a lane to a goat trail. On the XPA I may well have gone with it, but on the V11 I decided better of it. This is the second time I have made this mistake of not taking enough time over the sections of the journey I am familiar with. A few weeks ago I had a ride-out with some fellow Pennine Guzzisti in N. Wales. On that trip I researched the first 75% of the trip which consisted of a whole heap of turns across minor roads that I had not ridden prior and would not have attempted with company in the past. The last 25%, knowing basically where I expected to go, my attention to detail was not so hot. At least the first 75% of the route went very well indeed. Three features I have not mentioned; 1. Up until now I have been reviewing “Route mode”. There is also “Compass mode”. I mentally discarded this as only really useful for off-road riding such as riding green lanes. However, it does come into its’ own when things go wrong, such as a road closed or Sat-nav pilot error. Switching to compass mode, the Beeline will simply point to the next destination, keeping you orientated whilst trying to find an alternative routes. A typical Sat-nav will just point you back to the problem until you are far enough away that an alternative route is calculated. 2. Importing of .gpx files (which is the cross platform file type for navigation devices such as Garmin or Tomtom) can be done. On my very first ride with a Beeline I did this and switched it off after 3 miles of 330. This is probably going to turn out to be my error too. I will try again at a later date. 3. The Beeline Moto, is a development of the Beeline Velo for cyclists. The option to go Velo seems to be there and as I do a little, I shall be exploring it. Lastly, the Beeline display options. As well as displaying the route, you can scroll through options on the Beeline unit without out your phone to hand, and display the time, your speed and the battery state of the beeline and your phone. The speed display might be useful for some machine with where speedo parts are scant. You can probably already see this device is not for all. If you are looking for a navigation nanny, this device is not for you. If you are looking for a device you are going to use as an occupational tour guide, this probably is not for you. For occasional use? For minimum handlebar clutter and minimal off bike baggage? Looking for a navigation aid/memory prompt? Looking for budget Sat-nav? If the answer to any of these is “yes”, then the Beeline may be for you. “Hang on”, I hear the cry, “why not just use a smart phone in a handlebar clamp”? Well you need an IP67 rated phone at least for all weather use and a Mechano kit of clutter on your bar to hold it. A phone with those specs is likely north of £300 on your bar, making it attractive to thieves and if you have an off, your means of communication is pretty vulnerable, as is your contacts list, banking details and loads of other data. The Beeline can be viewed as a sacrificial unit that has a relatively low cost to any other techno alternative and less inconvinient to lose or break. It was my choice and not a bad one “for me”. Certainly won’t be right for all. Moderator/Administrator, I could not get this image to display. Feel free to share. If you copy the whole lot in to your browser it will work. https://scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/126956950_3726475370738176_8378252657882387746_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=ff24Pon_uPwAX_tZO_s&_nc_ht=scontent-lht6-1.xx&oh=8942be66edc0d3ec9624b968a147cc63&oe=5FE04DEE [img]https://i.postimg.cc/Wp0c6hqz/DSC-0438.jpg[/img]

I now have a bleed on the slave and a bleed on banjo on the slave. I used an elevate resvoir to feed the system from the slave up, only connecting the master once the line was full.

Just weighed my 2002ish V11's old crank. 7.3kg

I have an 03 registered bike, but pretty sure it is an 02 or 01. Mine does not have a forward cross over or lamba sensor in the exhaust. Mine also does not have an in tank fuel pump. The lead end of the rockers sees the weather and abrasive airborne debris. Mine went at the lead end first.

And Docc, you're not gonna want your rear caliper moving around are you?

Cadwell is my track of choice. Plenty of opportunity to mix it with some high tech stuff and show them up.

No knocking percieve.we're all just trying to backward engineer the designer's thoughts.

Also, what is the "knock" on effects on the swing arm bushes by hard tying the bevel box to the swing arm, that Guzzi have gone to great length to engineer out?

Moto Guzzi have gone to a lot of effort to allow the bevel box to rotate on needle roller bearings when the bike is buttoned up in a riding state. Lift the rear wheel with the reaction arm in place with OEM or my sourced bushes installed and we can see with bike in gear, the whole bevel box move rotationally compare to the swing arm when the throttle is sharply applied. That move movement is exponentially restrained as the rubber bushes compress in one direction and move to an eccentric off set. Once the load is released the bushes re-concentrsize. Should the bike be in a situation when ridden where the rear will lifts whilst under load, the rear wheel will accelerate to greater than the road speed. Upon landing, the rear tyre will shock load through the transmission from rear wheel to little ends. The torque arm bushes will absorb in part some of the shock load through the transmission, along with the other features the bike has that Docc mentions and also the tyre. Even in normal contact conditions, restraining of the movement of the bevel box will load up the other shock absorbing components including the rear tyre. Could a spirited or track day rider like myself over heat the rear tyre by over restraint of the bevel box? Thank you for the endorsement of my solution.

If we consider other bike's transmissions, every other bike I've owned over 125 has cush rubbers that act as a shock absorbed for the transmission. If we replace the rubber bushes in the reaction and with something solid like nylon or rose bearings, what else is in the V11 transmission is going to protect it from shock loads?

My output is pretty redundant now, as my Speedo runs off the rear disc retaining bolts, like the Speedo on a Breva. Initially, I calibrated the new Speedo to the old. Later, I used a Garmin Sat Nav. It was an eye opener how enthusiastic the OEM Speedo was.

I don't know if you have them down under, but I run a Baglus tank cover and tank bag system. Absolutely secure and waterproof "enough" for mid to southern €pe. Not as waterproof as your Kreiga. I use a US40 Kreiga so know how excellent that are.

Hi Gentlefolk, Had a few comments whilst out riding with mates on brake-less retardation caused on over run on the V11 (engine braking). I just wondered if any of you peoples have dabbled with brake lamp switches trigged by a closed throttle? Also wondering if it is legal in the UK.

Hi Peeps, I recently replaced my Reaction Arm Bushes. Unfortunately I had to get 5 pairs manufactured. I have two pairs up for sale; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293536661066 Not cheap I know, but just passing on my costs for the surplus. The reaction arms are not longer available and this is still cheaper than many second hand offerings our there. I have fitted them to my bike and abused them on a couple of track days + 200 on the road. No issues and another UK owner running them as not reported back any issues. Cheers Kevin

Looking back through this thread folk seem to be opting for variations of Rose bearings rather then shock absorbing bushes. To my recall there is no cush rubbers on a V11 rear wheel. As a result, the reaction rod bushing is the only point of give in the whole transmission after the tyre. Does the omission of the bushes not increase the risk of spline, bevel or UJ failures?