4corsa

Bottom line for me is it's more beautiful and desirable than almost any new bike available at any dealer showroom in the past 15+ years - period.

Just perfect!

...just pulled my current plugs, they also measure .85 to .9mm (.035"). They look fine - good tan color. But that gap is 20-25% more than spec. Seems like a lot to me.

Just received a new pair of NGK BPR6ES, they have a 0.85mm gap. Dave Richardson (p. 145 Guzziology), lists 0.7mm for these plugs for the V11, but he also states "more gap is always better but only up to the limit of the coil's output". Anyone happen to know what that limit is?

New oil pressure switch arrived and installed, behold - red light with key on, and it goes out when engine is started. Thank God for little miracles (and knowledgeable friends on this forum!).

I agree, and always considered the two separate issues, unless related to cleaning the ground cables at the battery, which proved not the case for the oil pressure warning light. It was just convenient to work on both at the same time, with fairing removed, etc.

You are correct Lucky Phil and thank you. I should have done that first, but got side tracked with a number of the items that were related to the starter issue, mainly getting to the ignition and taking that apart. But thank you again for your help - much appreciated!

Many thanks Docc and gstallons! I'll let you know if the be switch solves the problem. Seems like it must be it.

The pin male connector of the oil pressure switch is not grounded neither with key on or off. There must not be continuity to the engine case. I connected my test light clip to the pin and touched the probe to the positive battery terminal with key on and off - no light.

Ok, so when I connect a grounded wire to the disconnected oil pressure switch wire, I get the bulb to light with key on engine off!

Checking that in a minute Docc, meanwhile, here is that circuit in the wiring diagram. #12 being the oil pressure switch:

Also, I'm assuming the connector to the oil pressure switch is supposed to have just one wire.

Ok so with koeo, using my grounded test light with probe inside the oil pressure switch socket, I am getting NO light, no power.

When you say "...the wire should have battery voltage", which wire? The wire to the oil pressure switch, or the hot wire to the bulb?

I have not checked this, and first need to locate the oil pressure switch.

Also, as a verification, I clipped my test light to the blue wire and touched the probe to the red wire with ignition on and did not light. Definitely not getting ground. I'm thinking may have to cut the blue wire and connect the blue wire terminal directly to the frame, unless someone has a better idea.

Ok terminals cleaned, scuffed, sprayed and re-connected no difference for the warning light. Bulb won't light when touched to the two bare terminals in every which way, but it lights when touched to the red wire and grounded test light with ignition switched to on.

Thanks Docc, I'm on it.

I don't believe it's a common ground.(but not sure). It's isolated going to and from the first connector block. Anyone happen to know where this circuit is grounded to the frame? Now thinking this could be related to my intermittent starter issue. Need to find the ground point and clean it up.

...as seen here:

Turns out the blue ground wire is not grounding. When I touch the bulb contact wires to the red wire and my grounded test light probe, the bulb illuminates. Now what?!

Well, the socket is getting power, test light illuminated with key turned on, and went off when key went off. Has to be something messed up in the socket base. Bulb does seem loose when inserted.

Forgot one

Ok, so replaced the oil pressure warning light bulb, and still does not illuminate when key is turned on. Disassembled the ignition module and connections look good at both ends. Regarding the occasional starter not engaging, I'll check the starter button next, but that issue may have been solved at the relay. Hard to tell right now as it only seems to happen when the engine is hot. So far engages the starter 100% of time when cold. But the oil light remains a mystery. Once I have the ignition back together I'll try a test light in the base of that socket (yup, should've done that first [emoji848]).

First question is, are you referring to the Tamburini 900SS of the 90s, or the 900SS of Terblanche that followed? I owned a '95 900SS/SP that I loved. It evokes a similar Italian lust as my V11 LeMans, but as everyone says above, they are very different bikes. The Ducati is all about the chassis, suspension, and fabulous lightweight handling. The only reason I sold mine is at 6'-1" I was never able to get my butt far enough back where it should be due to the position of the rear seat cowl. It's not a great bike for those over 5'-10". Otherwise I highly recommend them - so much fun to ride, but not for long distance like the V11.