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sp838

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Everything posted by sp838

  1. Rectifier passes the diode test. Thinking it's the reg. as well. Unfortunately there's no way to really "test" that. Idle speed is 1k. I've always had around 14.5 at idle, even back when the bike was bone stock...
  2. So, little update, I first tested parasitic loss at the – terminal, only 1mA which is what I was hoping to see. My speedo draws that to store mileage and GPS location. I then tested to see if the bike was charging, and it appears to be: 14.4V at idle, then as I went up the rev range, it dropped down to around 12V at 2K, then back up to 13V at 3K, and around 14.5V at 5K RPM. So it's charging. All the while, the idiot light on the dash was solidly on. No flickering, no turning off then back on again. I'll do the diode test this evening, thinking I might also do an AC test on the stator. I might also wire up a temporary idiot light to the r/r just to see if it's the idiot light wiring in the harness that is to blame. Hoping that's it.
  3. Thanks guys. I'll take those measurements, and will also do the diode test on the r/r tonight, as well as check voltage at idle.
  4. My charging system warning light is not turning off after I start the bike. Went out for a ride yeaterday, it flickered and then turned itself off after I pulled away so I thought, "a little weird but probably ok", but then after I got up to speed it came back on and stayed on solid, so after a few miles of watching it and hoping to see it turn back off, I decided to turn around, hurried home, and put a voltmeter on the battery expecting to see it show that it was being drained. Battery read 14.17V. Bike performed normally otherwise, idled fine, lights worked etc. I checked the wires for the r/r, all looked good. Ground wire is happy, yellow wires to the alternator are good, red wire out to battery seems fine, blue wire which sends the warning to the dash is clearly ok too. Did not look into the alternator yet. Did not check with voltmeter while running at idle yet. Any ideas as to what might be going on / where to look around first? Thanks!
  5. I attached it to the spine.
  6. Hmmm. So aside from longer lasting steel flywheel and easier clutch operation, it would be on par with the conventional lightened one from a performance standpoint? Lower weight results in lower inertia, one way or another methinks, or am I still missing something?
  7. Hey Scud, thanks for the link, I've already been on that thread and still don't really understand the difference, and specifically what makes the RAM product special and different from a lightened flywheel/clutch plate package. What's the remedial version? I was under the impression that it all came down to weight reduction of the spinning parts.
  8. I am very curious about this subject. How does the RAM clutch compare to this flywheel offered by MGC: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4409 They also offer "lighweight" kevlar clutch plates that are compatible with this flywheel and most twin plate V11's: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=4749
  9. Will do. I'm traveling overseas this week, will post more specific part numbers etc. here and in the encyclopedia when I get back.
  10. Definitely a good thing to bleed the caliper with it off the bike. Unhook the line from the little tabs on the swing arm and bring it around to the right side and let it rest below the whole assembly. Push the pads all the way in and then put a wooden shim in there to keep them from closing up during bleeding.
  11. Pretty sure it was one of these: http://ebay.com/itm/262961200271
  12. I'll post pics when I get home but in the meantime Scud is my witness!
  13. I replaced my rear mc with a brembo for KTM all in one unit, with a finned reservoir extender and a hydraulic banjo bolt switch. Works great, looks great. One less hose to run, easier to bleed, and frees up a bracket under the seat which is better used for grounding stuff. Rebuild kits are readily available for them too.
  14. Tried calling him twice and no answer. Do you know if he's back from Austin yet?
  15. So now that it's installed, what are your thoughts? Does it look like it will help brace the transmission? I'm curious to see how it bolts up to the frame, if you can squeeze your camera in there somehow...
  16. where are you located? If you're in or near SoCal I can refer you to some V7 experts.
  17. Got a new switch off fleabay, $12 delivered. Bench tested it, it's lighting up. Says it's made in Italy, not sure if that a good or bad thing. There's someone on fleabay selling them for $70!!! I sent them a message telling them it was outrageous and they threatened to report me for harassment. What a world we live in.
  18. Sooooo . . . . if it ain't broke . . . . . hit it with a hammer or two?
  19. sp838

    Ram Mount.

    I'd just drill and tap a hole in the top clamp and be done with it.
  20. Yep, already determined that it's the switch, as power is making its way to the female bullet connector. When I touch it to the engine the dash light comes on. I have a new one on order, and I plan on hitting the old one with a hammer, heating it up with a torch and squirting it with contact cleaner and compressed air to see if that will revive it.
  21. sp838

    Ram Mount.

    That chrome piece with the allen opening is indeed the top yoke nut. Part 13 in this diagram. http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-le-mans-sport-naked-1100-2001-2002/front-fork-i-en-v11-lemans-sport-naked-2001-2002.html Shoving an expanding screw sleeve in there seems like a particularly savage way to mount something to your bike, but who am I to judge...
  22. The bulb in parallel trick works, I did that following Kiwi Roy's advice. I worry about its longevity though. These bulbs can burn out eventually. Wouldn't the resistor last longer?
  23. So power is coming through to the switch. Switch is either dead or, somehow stuck in the open position. Is that possible? Don't have time right now to fiddle with it, but will try cleaning it out, warming it up, and tapping it with a good luck guzzi hammer to see if it can be revived. Only costs $20 to replace, will probably do that anyway, but it irks me!
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