footgoose

thanks foto. takin' me back to iron mtn rd. love it. LOVED the video. Well done! the 'rider in the windscreen' shot --very cool. that Bassa is sweet. is 99-00 the years you'd look for if you were going to replace it? and, sorry but, what does "15m cpu bulletproof" mean?

I'm leaning towards getting another "cruiser" ...standard style highway bike. First thought is a V11 Cali style. Not crazy about the low slung look but that's not a problem with the Tonti, is it. I know several LM owners here also have them. My question to you bunch is... what years are better, regarding fits and niggles. I'm somewhat up on the V11LM's "best and worst" vintage, but the cruisers, not so much. Did they ever make a 6 spd? Is the top gearing (5th) long enough? Do they share any of the LM's problems? I really like the EV rim spoke wheels (tubeless??) Recommendations, opinions appreciated. thanks, David

2k mi away. don't think I can make it. but it sounds awesome! respectfully requesting some event photo coverage if possible Ted. thanks for the invite

I've read here that the filter coming unscrewed is kind of a common problem for us. I'm not sure how that would affect flow pressure, but it's maybe worth checking.

Is this.... http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=2986 the assembly you are waiting on? Will you need anything else for the swap? It doesn't say "replaces 1 plate or 2 plate" Would have been helpful to include "this is the one you Tenni/Scura/Rosso Mondello owners are after" Should I assume replacement friction plates will be available for this kit? If there's a thread covering this replacement, somebody please link me.

I'm carrying my spring with a rabbit's foot, a horseshoe, and a four-leaf clover. Seriously, I'm hoping it lasts a bit longer so I can do a pre-emptive spring repair while I replace the flywheel and do the engine paint (due to bubbling). That's the Scura trifecta... Of course, the trifecta only pays out if you guess the order. Engine paint has already crossed the line... spring and flywheel are running neck-and-neck. Hopefully you'll have Stick's luck, Scud. I'm following your clutch replacement process as well. I gotta do that in the Tenni as well. Hopefully, before it blows

Just as a data point: I bought a 2002 Lemans from the original owner about 3 years ago. He pointed out the spare spring he carried, due to the breakage issue. I bought it with 50,000 miles, and sold it with about 60K miles. The spring was never serviced in the bike's history. Maybe carrying the spare spring is a good luck charm? The spring is now in the tool kit of another 2002 LeMans that I purchased - at around 7K miles. Now over 10K my 'luck' record is a bit different than yours, but I will be carrying a "charm" from now on. I guess if an undetermined batch of bikes can get built with an incorrect part (16+mm boss) it seems reasonable some bikes, maybe yours, got the correct one. And, just sayin' from what I've read @LM.com, and from what I saw in MY bike, the design is not the best with the CORRECT parts, and with the over sized boss, the spring is stressed and abused with every shift. The relative ease of a pre-emptive repair, makes it a no -brainer for my other '02. I'll post what I find.

Just to sum up "my" fix. having followed directions from those kind souls posted, I have completed my swap and have but a few notes to add. I don't mean to hijack, just wanted to share. In theory, if the spring breaks while in gear, as long as you mark the cover plate cogs gear teeth (and linkage splines), and don't mess with the shift forks, it should all go back together just as taken apart and be in the same gear it was. Since I messed around with mine, I couldn't get the plate to line up. So, as previously suggested, I set the 4 shift forks centered between the gears, spin wheel, =neutral. The cover plate is easy. Turn the cogs till the neutral switch pops in to the divot that's on the back side of the lower cog = neutral. I purchased a new 15mm boss arm but used my orig re-sized one, as I see no difference. I eased the edge where the spring hooks on, replaced the arm seal, used three-bond as a gasket, and shock-proof heavy to finish. I can already tell a difference in shifting with the red line. Thanks to those who took the time to post their experience and knowledge. Big help! This job will be dead easy on my other spine, now I've done it, and which I will do BEFORE it breaks. If you're not sure about your spring and arm "status", I would urge anyone with an 02 (maybe others) to bite the bullet and do the fix. At least prepare and carry the roadside repair kit. It will break.

when I purchased the Tenni, the hydraulic fluids hadn't been changed for a couple-3 years, or more (color of molasses) and the 'engage' position on the lever was JUST off the grip. I flushed all fluids and immediately got back to almost normal lever engage position. It continued to improve even more with use, to where it should be. Not to mention brakes. Fresh fluids every year are a small PITA, but the rewards are big.

I used to buy a lot of stuff from http://www.beemerboneyard.com/. might be a good reference anyway.

looks just like my Stucchi. my FBF is a lighter gauge and no hanger bracket. the FBF is a lot easier to install tho. I don't know about any problems without calibration.

I ended up grinding my down with a Dremel and aluminum oxide stone. A little hand filing to clean up the edges and shoulder of the boss too. I also used the Dremel polishing pads to get it nice and smooth. I ended up just shy of 15mm in diameter. I also reshaped the spot where the small pawl spring hook catches the edge of the shift linkage. The edge was pretty sharp so I rounded it off and made it smooth. Clamp in a bench vise and take your time going round and round, periodically measuring with a caliper gauge. Yes, Redline Heavy Shock Proof. Looks like strawberry yoghurt. My dremmel experience didn't work so well. Very hard for me to keep it round,... and square, if that make sense. I just switched to hand file and it's working great. Positioning in the vise in such a way as to have a 'stop' for the file edge. Almost there. Meantime, thanks Gunther, turns out Harpers has a ratchet under a different P/N, (if you call them) so I have one on the way for my other '02 LM.... pre-emptive maint.

mine just went. pawl/boss 16.12mm, broken spring 17.24mm coil, new spring (MGCycle) 17mm coil.!? The springs bind very tight on the boss. There is no way the new spring will survive without belfastguzzi's finessed mods, which I will do, since I can't find a new arm...(ie:Harpers) Anyone know where they are available? And am I correct, it's Red Line Shock Proof heavy gear oil for the refill? I've read so much, I can't be sure. I'm going to replace the shift seal while the plate's off. And...assemble and carry a roadside repair kit. ps. guzzisti, don't despair, the venerable Yamaha XS 650 suffers from a similar affliction, as does the Kawasaki KLR650.

great story, thanks for that Bjorn! looks like a great time

Well, it sounds mostly positive. I'll try it for a year or 2 and see how it goes. I don't have much faith in any PAC, so to be determined.... My dad liked to add ethanol in the pickup during the winter. He said it helped with condensation in the tank. I don't want it in any of my motorcycles, especially the nylon tankers. The politics of ethanol I'll leave for another day, and place. Thanks for the input all.

Just curious. Does anyone have an AMA membership, and have you found it useful? I'm not quite as adventurous as I once was and am considering a membership primarily for catastrophic breakdowns. Are there alternatives? I know AAA does not cater to motorcycles. I called and they just said no. How weird. Seems like there would be money to be made.

I know you. You're the former tennis pro! The roads you speak of, I spend much time on. Been riding them for 45 years. Moto GP Indy is a Hoot. Three days of God's light shining on our city. Loads to see at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway. And don't forget "Motorcycles o Meridian" Fri & Sat Night. Large area of downtown blocked off and restricted to ... motorcycles!! and related activities. Stunts, bands, bars. That Sat nite used to host the Indy Mile Championship flat track race, till they moved it up because of the State fair. It was almost too much to do. ps. I want those relays!

I recently bought a 2000 seat for the pan, to do a nice recover for my 2002. they are the same (as shown above photo) tho recesses are a bit different. It will not fit without cutting the pan and removing plastic in the few spots that are too high. Things under the seat were re-arranged from '00 to '02

so the Moto site offers black/red or black/gold, but in the description says they are available in all colors, including silver outer ring. Of course, that would be the ideal combo for me, silver ring/gold cap. The search is on. The ebay one is quite a bit cheaper, with a silver/silver option. and Lucky Phil's endorsement! hmmmm....

that is sweet! cost a lot? other colors?

I have 2 '02 LM's, one with 12k mi. and barely a hint of play, and one with 16k miles with just a bit more play. nothing like yours. in the video it looks as if the diff output shaft is a bit wobbly. am I seeing that right? that would give me concern. the rest is driveline lash. I'm not a tech so don't rely, but I'd call it normal.

nice job danl. I adhere to 'cheap is the mother of invention' so I love it. creative and Spartan. I'm about to do something similar, just don't know what yet. I personally do not care for the stock light. nice shape-too big. we'll see. there are a butt load of those skinny repli-racer stock under-tail systems that get thrown out as soon as the bike gets brought home. I'm watching epay for one now. thanks for the post

I'm not sure how the Tekno system mounts so probably not much help, but I have the stock MG tail rack, and reused my longer bolts. There's a welded on spacer with the mount bracket that brings the rack rearward. The rack then mounts to those, and only those. The bracket with spacer is about 3/4" thick. The longer bolts,(maybe 7/8?) when the brackets were off, worked fine. I found releasing the seat/tail bodywork was necessary on one side to keep from scratching the paint near the rear of foot peg brackets. When I decided to leave the rack on permanently, I replaced the bolts with stainless. MG was generous with stainless compared to other makes, but they didn't get them all.

this makes me wonder if trouble in related components contribute to, or even cause relays to fail?? or do they always just fall flat on their own?