footgoose

ok I'm sold. any particular clamp preference? looks like an ordinary hose clamp snugged up to lock her in.

nice shot. that could be my bike, and that could be Indiana. small beautiful world.

Braaaaappp indeed, and welcome

did you shut her off while getting gas? A failure after 30 sec after restart is curious. I don't think it would have restarted 30 sec from a seized motor.

"Great I'm glad this is all fixable. I was so worried the pipes were bent and I would have to heat it up with an oxy-acetylene torch and bend it. The metal tube the right handlbar controls go over is bent. Is that repairable?" I'm only speculating based on the one photo. I can't really tell the extent of the damage from it. All things bent can be straightened, unless it's cast. Even some cast can but not easily. I'm advising what you should try first. I have found that many buggered up items can be put right with some finesse and fiddling. the tube that you speak of IS the handlebar. 7/8" X about 12" long.?? That's what I was calling a "clip-on" handlebar earlier when describing how to fix it. There is an anti-vibe assembly inside it under the bar end weight. Just strip the tube down as best you can and stick it in a vise. Take care to not crush in the vise. You can use a couple bits of hard wood on either side while clamping. Use and iron pipe 2 to 3 ft long that will slip over the tube. Slowly bend it. It will bend relatively easy. Roll it on a flat surface to check for straight.

Just to answer directly... I would have some Guzzi performance builder guru have his way with it. But.... What I am curious about is the sequence of the tragedy. What happened?

no idea knumb, but following this to see what you find.

Yeah. When my uncle bought the bike secondhand back in 2007, there were some scratches on the right side muffler. I also know the bike once tipped over in the wind and gas leaked and stripped some paint from the right fairing. If she took a hard hit on the muffler, the bracket (plate) or the hanger may be bent. The whole exhaust system may have been pushed to the left side a bit. You can loosen all the exhaust bolts and clamps and coax everything back. The right side muffler, in standard position, will look like it is further out than the left one. It was built this way. So don't let that mess with your head. Does it have the emission canister still on? It's the stupid looking thing attached to the bracket that the exhaust crossover is hanging from. With hoses coming out. Right in the center, in front of the rear tire. That hanger bracket could be bent too. This is all easy stuff.

The exhaust clip? No sorry, the clip-on handlebar

the clip on can be bent back. mine was the same. take it off, strip it bare and put in a vise. use an iron pipe to GENTLY pull it back. take your time, it can be damaged. mine went back fine and fast.

ah photos! I can see the clutch fluid needs changed. On the exhaust, from what I can see, try loosening the clamps on the muffler/ crossover and the muffler hanger and tap the can rearward with a rubber mallet. *****yeah, check that ... it won't slide back on the hanger bracket. I was thinking it had strap hangers like mine. What docc said... and see if the rear footpeg/hanger bracket is bent.

Don't those same pieces mount the coils and the ECU? the ecu mounts at MGC is p/n 9221315. the instrument 'silent block' is 93222023. they look the same in photos. might be different in length or thread. the body panel fasteners are 93231605 or 1606

Ha! See, I learned two new things already! thanks

Yup, I had to replace a silent block too. I Just replaced them all. Something about that Italian rubber. Solids, tubing, hoses, boots, etc, seem to dry rot. The silent block replacements, at least the ones from MGcycle, are aftermarket and seem to be better quality. Those little rubber expanding nuts that hold the fairing sides needed replacement on mine as well. I got some from MGC and some oem's from Harpers. Yeah get some pics up when you get a chance.

Ok. Do you know how I can get one? I did't find it in any online stores. You may not need it. You will most likely want it. Read this thread and learn about it. Info on how to get one is in there too. They are a very good deal right now. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19423

Interesting JRD. I always wondered what effects were at play with a front end that has damping on one fork and rebound on the other.

Sometimes I wonder how I got to the point I am now, of doing things the way I do them. Doing plug replacement today, I wondered out of nowhere,(too much coffee) am I doing this the best way? Removal is always the same. Feel for any hang ups on the way out, noting that they were indeed, seated. Inspect for damage and proper coloration. Gauge the new ones. I use a flat gauge as opposed to wire, and it only has .027" and .028" for choices. Our spec is .7mm which lands somewhere between them. I have always gone with 'err on the large size.' I go with 28 I hit them on something till they are very tight on the gauge, then use it to bend it till it just slips in and out, but snug. I dab just a bit of silver anti seize on the threads and replace. I think I have a good sense of "torque" without using a torque wrench (they scare me with plugs) and go slightly past the 'crush' of the washer. I use the recommended NGK BPR6ES and get them at the auto parts store. Anything I can learn after all these years?

I did not realize you could do that. I used thin washers to shim mine up just a hair.

To what end docc? This is new subject matter to me. using the halfway point between the axles, and just eyeballing it, it seems the front would weigh more. I dunno, just me. Looks 60/40 front.

that's not good. get into that airbox and check for mouse condos.

there's also a trick on here somewhere for freeing up the rivets on your brake rotors. corrosion from non-use will seize those and may give you a "bent" or, out of balance feel when braking. Really easy, I'll look for it.

welcome. Yes++ to all above. I see you are in MN. After sitting, all those fluids will contain moisture from condensation. I would also remove the gas tank, drain and rinse. While doing that you can see if the tank has suffered any "stretch", a common nuisance caused by the nylon tank reacting to alcohol in gasoline. The tank will seem too long to line up with the rear bolt hole. Not to worry. Also while off, make sure the under tank insulation is not hanging loose, and go ahead and look over docc's "tank off maintenance" http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18195&do=findComment&comment=203204-this will cover necessary basics.(read his last post first) You'll be listening to Goose music in no time.

I have done the shift pawl arm and spring in my 2 '02s. My selector cogs didn't have the three point cover plate holding them in as yours does. Just the cir clips. I don't recall the adjuster in there either. I think mine is external. The rest looks the same. I wish I'd read this before my job, I would have cleaned it up a bit more. Maybe next time (winter) thanks Phil.

Very interesting read johnk. how about an update? what is your conclusion after a few years? I will have a very close look at my shafts after reading that.

I certainly hope she's ok. On another note... girls and bikes... very nice. Girls that can ride like that... priceless.