Scud

I think mechanics generally go by estimating guides provided by the factory. Ask him to explain why it takes 12 hours. For comparison, I think I could do a complete clutch in 12 hours and I tend to go slow and read the manual while I do the work. It is a big job (you've got to remove either the engine or the transmission), but I think someone who's done it a few times could go faster. I doubt it can be done in less than 8 hours though.

With that topic title, I did not expect to see such a major bummer. Here's hoping it's something simple/easy. Can a starter motor stay engaged and cause these symptoms after 30 seconds of running? I assume you'll be draining the oil and possibly dropping the sump soon - to check for evidence. As for what's in the realm of fantasy - I know you wanted a Turbo K75s. How about a turbo V11? Whatever the case, best of luck - and get it done before winter (aka riding season in Tuscon).

Get a RAM ball that screws into the mirror mount. I think it's an M10 thread. Then, with some RAM arms and various holders, you can put whatever you want on it. I mostly use a handheld GPS, but here is an iPhone holder converted to a hand-drawn map-window.

I don't think anybody mentioned the age of the tires yet. You might want to check the date codes for date of manufacture and see if you're comfortable with that age of tire. If you get new tires - put some angled valve stems in at the same time to make checking pressure easy.

I have the same Hyperpro as JB on my LeMans. I also found it to be an improvement, but I don't think the Sachs was in good shape at the time (so not a totally fair comparison). I like the fact that I could buy the unit relatively inexpensively, they set it up based on my weight and riding style, and that the external reservoir and related adjustments can be added later (for a price), during a rebuild. If I could vote twice, I would have clicked Ohlins for my Scura. It's better, but some of that may be due to the forks also being better. The same road just feels smoother on my Ohlins-Scura vs my Marzocchi-Hyperpro-LeMans.

Just wondering... do you have much experience riding? If not, can I please suggest the following: Take a motorcycle safety class. Many classes include portions of (or all) the license requirements. I think it varies state by state. Buy a smaller, used bike and ride it everywhere for a few months. Dual-sports (such as Suzuki DR400s) are great learner bikes, nobody cares if you drop them a few times, and there's always a market for them. Then sell it when you feel comfortable on the V11.

Welcome. In addition to the main electrical issue and the engine oil change, I suggest the following: Give it a thorough inspection - maybe even take the wheels off so you can lube everything properly and make sure you have plenty of brake pad left - and that your calipers are working well. Flush brakes (front and rear) and clutch - you want new fluids there. Drain and replace transmission oil and final drive oil - you can decide between the factory recommendation and the Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil that many use instead. Lube the driveshaft - at least the rear if you can't get to the front right away. (the front grease fitting can be difficult to reach). Figuring out how to lube the front of the driveshaft is part of the initiation ritual.

Not a very difficult project at all. It's bolt-on, with the exception of the need to elongate a hole in the sidestand mount. Here's a good thread on installation: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8985 Update re my oil leak: the leak nothing at all to do with the plate or gaskets. My problem was that I failed to secure the breather hose (I had engine out to replace the clutch at same time). It turns out that I wasted time by reinstalling the plate with a sealant.

As I understand it, the transmissions were different starting in 2002. It seems like lengthening the arm on the foot lever would apply to all model/years - but do you know if the internal modifications are also needed in 2002 and later models?

Godzilla: I ate Tokyo. ZZ Top did a custom Cadillac they called Cadzilla - it had a similar plate.

1 N/m is 0.74 lb/ft I use an app on my phone called Converter+ so I can type in the spec in Nm and see it in lb/ft. I think I should just get a metric torque wrench.

All I can see is a map with twisty roads....

Despair: I just recovered from my own self-inflicted oil-leak despair. You'll get there too. Looks like the stable-mates will keep you riding while you sort this out. History: Did you ride the bike before you got it? By that I mean: did it appear to be trouble-free and then this problem just suddenly appeared - or is it possible that this is the reason the PO sold the bike? Color: Scuras are supposed to be dark and stealthy. I think yours suffered deep psychological trauma by being gussied up like a cheerful Coppa Italia. It's like making an introvert dress in pastel florals and go to a baby shower. Simply dreadful... It's acting out against social pressures that go against its nature. Relays: I have seen more than one problem solved by replacing all 5 relays with 5-pin Omrons. It's an inexpensive, and easy thing to do. It also gives peace of mind against future relay failure. Get 5 of these: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND

well... assuming the rider is fully restored, I'm looking forward to see how the bike project goes.

And the bonehead award goes to... Scud for his leading role in failing to put the hose clamp on the breather hose when he put the engine back in. Good news - I just ran 50 miles with lots of time at 5,000 to 7,000 RPM. Not even a single drop of oil on the floor (and only a bit of residue from the mess before came out the bell housing weep hole). Bad news - I burned a lot of time thinking of the worst possible scenarios and re-sealing stuff that was probably not leaking in the first place. (I tried to post 11 Dohs as pennance, but got an error message that I exceeded maximum allowed emoticons) Without this forum, I would not have thought to look at the breather hose. I think I would have gotten about halfway through the engine removal process before I noticed the missing hoseclamp. Thanks. It turned over 13,000 miles this evening - which means I've only put about 5,000 on it in the year-plus I've had it. But it spent about as much time on the lift as on the road. Maybe lucky 13k marks time for a change. Actual mileage remains unknown, since odometer was not working - but I think it has quite a lot more than 13,000. Good times (and a proper assault on the Sierra Nevadas) ahead... Oh - and the clutch is fabulous. It even lost traction at the rear wheel on a downhill, engine braking, downshift (no rear brake applied). Very exciting...

Just start a topic in 24/7 V11. We've had a few project-bike threads and I tried collecting them here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18962 Some forums have a dedicated project section for people who want to document a project and get advice along the way. I've seen some of your other completed projects and would enjoy tagging along as you do a V11.

I have a trouble-free Yuasa in my Scura - and no modifications to wiring, with the exception of an extra ground to the voltage regulator case. For the ground, look behind the seat lock, not the helmet lock. Remove the seat lock (2 allen screws). The ground should be securely attached to the transmission case behind the seat lock. Some have cured the melting fuse problem with a MAXI fuse holder instead of the OEM 30-amp in the fuse block. Docc has some good posts on the issue. I put one in my LeMans as a preventative measure, but didn't get around to putting one in the Scura yet.

Thanks guys, I think all the evidence points to the breather hose. The leak didn't appear when I warmed it up at idle, nor when I rode slowly around the neighborhood (with lots of sloshing back and forth and a few quick starts). The leak only became active when I got the revs up. I have a new breather hose and maybe can install it tonight - if not, it's going to be a couple weeks.

Now that's worthy of starting a dedicated build thread so we can follow along....

Hmm... I found this very useful thread about the same type of leak that plagued Docc for a while. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18243&page=1 Will order in all the appropriate hoses and O-rings to address the non-engine out issues. Since I just had the engine out for the clutch, it makes sense that I may have disturbed things that were not previously leaking.

Pardon the dirty biological humor. Let's be scientific and sanitary now. Step 1: How it's supposed to look under there. (Don't say "underwear" or you will have fallen for the oldest and worst joke ever.) All degreased and blown out with compressed air. Step 2: spray with foot powder, warm it up at idle... no problem... ride around the neighborhood a bit, possibly seeing first signs of seepage... ride it hard for 1/2 mile... and then we have our evidence: And I happened to notice this oil seeping out of the plug on the bell housing, where Czakky stores his used wine corks. It's supposed to be all dry and sanitary in there - and it was when I did the clutch. I'm assuming a bad rear main seal at this point. Has anyone seen this before - and can confirm my diagnosis or suggest an alternative? She's running soooooo good.... I am not looking forward to taking the engine out again.

It seems to me that the fairing is such a good fit for the tank that it must have been part of the original design. Does anyone know the history? Did Moto Guzzi have both faired and unfaired versions designed from the star - and decided to go to market with only the naked Sports first? The fairing on that Greenie looks very similar to the LeMans fairing with the small side-scoops removed. She needs a green belly pan like Lucky Phil's. A set of mirrors would be nice too...

Batman would be proud

Try the parts catalog from "this old tractor", pages G3 and G5 for Marzocchi axle and Ohlins axle: Here's the link to download: http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_misc_spare_parts_catalogs___exploded_parts_diagrams___parts_fiche.html

The photos you referenced in post 10 are the same as my Ohlins forks on my 2002 Scura - but the 2002 LeMans came with Marzocchi forks. That suggests that somebody upgraded (good news for you). If the above advice doesn't work, maybe you don't have the correct spacer for the Ohlins. I was just looking at the parts manual to verify that they have different part numbers. I think you would be wise to download a parts manual and compare what you have to the illustrations.