Scud

Also: tire pressure gauge

Oh - looks like I didn't use my new words correctly. I can't see the picture you uploaded, but a quick web search turned up this: http://www.sportrider.com/art-science-fun-geometry Executive summary: Rake = angle of the fork. Decreased rake = more vertical. Increased rake = more horizontal (think of a chopper) Trail cannot be directly measured on the bike. It is the distance on the ground between two points: 1) drawn from the steering head to the ground, and 2) drawn from axle center to ground. It's the amount of distance that the contact patch of the tire "trails" the input from the steering head. I think this is what you said - but I'm saying it again in a different way to make sure I get it.

Good ideas. Fuses and duct tape will get added to my kit bag - I'll pass on the bulbs. Not sure whether Josh or the multi-meter will fit under the seat. But if they do, maybe I could also squeeze in a spare Scura flywheel. Re the nefarious Pawl spring: As I understand it, this failure gives some warning; it is not a surprise-failure, nor is it the type of repair one could easily do at roadside. I like the idea of seeing Docc's Spine-Raid kit. Always good to learn what people with more saddle-time carry. That's how I learned what to carry on my dirt bike, including Quick Steel (which I have needed). Haven't had to spend the night in the woods yet - but could have without the right kit.

@Docc - Wow, there's always another level. I think I'll stick with the oil I already bought. You are right that oil type and oil level (aka air gap), are other adjustments, along with tire size, shape, tread, pressure, total weight of rider(s) and gear, etc... not to mention road conditions and highly subjective opinions about what constitutes "better" handling for various purposes (touring, sport-riding, commuting). Throw in some confusing language and inconsistent use of terms and it's no wonder that the suspension topics go on forever.............. @Baldini - I'm following in your footsteps with the Scura. It's also my first time having such a nice suspension on a street bike (I actually felt a bit obligated to learn how to use it properly). Re factory settings - my intent is not to set them and leave them there, rather, it is first to ride it "as designed" and use that as the base-point for my adjustments. The PO clearly made a lot of adjustments. So far, putting them back to spec has resulted in improvements for me. I think there will be a hex-wrench in my jacket pocket for a while... so I can adjust the compression and rebound settings on the forks (the shock adjustments can be done without tools). Re shock length - the attached page from the manual shows what I was talking about. However, the Scura does not appear to have an "adjustable end eye/bracket." If it did (I am speculating and trying use my new vocabulary words in sentences) it would appear to increase rake (same as lowering the forks in the triple clamp) without decreasing trail (because rear is lengthened, rather than front shortened). Anyway, there's the difference between theory (reading books) and practice (turning wrenches); I can imagine adjusting the shock length while reading the book, but when I looked again (just now) there was no nut to turn. Re riding style - during a spirited romp through the twisties, I do tend to get forward on the seat and put more weight on the bars - I also generally use light brake pressure on the front through the corners (a trick I learned on my old BMW boxer that has served me well). I don't go "fast" either, but 90mph is frequently just going with the flow of traffic on the freeways. Sometimes I go slow and enjoy and enjoy the scenery. Thanks again (to everyone) for sharing your experience. Between the manuals (as corrected) and what I've learned here, I'm about ready to claim that I am a suspension-tuning amateur - that's good enough for me.

What should the knowledgeable V11 owner pack in order to make it home? Of course, the mobile-phone, credit-card, and roadside assistance plan (AAA in the US) offers one type of solution. But how about the fix-it-yourself and ride-it home approach? In addition to the supplied tool kit, I have added: Tire repair kit with rubber plugs, C02 cartridges, etc. (fits in tail section) Some emergency cash A few zip ties and a bit of safety wire Vacuum caps for the throttle-body sync pipes (Docc said those can be damaged by a bad hiccup) I haven’t bothered to look yet, but does fuse box have plenty of spares? If not, maybe somebody has a list of all spares that should be carried. What other supplies or tools have you found essential to carry on the bike?

@Leon: I'm glad this is helpful. Apparently, we love suspension talk; why stop now? In fact, today we merge our language and suspension settings topics... @Camn: Thanks for those pages. I would like a scan of the whole thing if you don't mind; I'll send you a PM with my e-mail. I attached the Öhlins Front Fork Specification Card, which I also sent to Jaap. He said he will add it to the file-share section next time he does an update. Ohlins fork FG8470_Factory Spec Card.pdf Now that sag is correct, I was curious to see where everything else was set. I have let go of my assumption that my Scura's suspension was untouched and remained at factory settings. Now my assumption is that the PO adjusted everything (and he didn't even ride it more than 200 miles ). Therefore, my new task is to restore all suspension settings to factory specifications. I further assume that all Öhlins adjusters should be turned clockwise to close - and counter clockwise to open. That is what the manuals say, but I am being extra careful about my assumptions given recent experience. Forks: Compression (bottom adjusters) were set at 14 of 20. I set them to 12. Rebound (top adjusters) were set at 7 of 20. I set them to 12. I will return the forks height to factory spec (one ring showing) after I do the oil change. Steering Damper: It was set at 14 of 20. I turned it to 12. (but I don't know the factory spec) Shock: Compression (adjuster knob on reservoir) was set at 8 of 20. I set it to 12. (but I don't know the factory spec) Rebound (black ring adjuster by lower shock mount) was set at 40 of 40 (totally open). I set it to 24. (but I don't know the factory spec) Shock absorber length: I now assume that this has also been adjusted away from spec - so I am hoping to learn the specified length. My guess is that the "lower the front, raise the back" method (that GuzziMoto described) was followed. I think I have now learned every possible adjustment point for the suspension. My assumptions for the damper and shock settings are based on the Swedish concept of "lagom" and the very Swedish-sounding title in one of the Öhlins manuals: "Everything Must Harmonize." Isn't that a great command for a suspension manual? No test-ride today - rain. I'm not expecting any pity from snow-bound members - in fact, California is still in drought, so the rain is welcome. Skål

That's funny. I didn't get an Ohlins tool for the oil level, - just a generic one from the local Cycle Gear shop. It looks like you put in a straw (with measurements on it), clamp it at the right depth and use the syringe to draw out everything above that depth. Simple, quick, and precise. I paid someone to do my dirt bike forks last time - and they're probably ready for another change. So I figure this tool will get some use.

Suspension update: Springs are in spec for me. Details follow: This was an important lesson for me - to get the spring sag adjusted correctly before doing anything else. This conversation has been really helpful - and so were the guys at Kyle Racing. They even sent me the factory spec sheet for the forks (FG8470), which said the recommended stock setting for the fork spring pre-load is 13 (out of 15). Mine was at 0 (no pre-load) when I got it. I previously increased preload by 11 turns and it made a huge difference. So I turned it 2 more and got these measurements: Rear Shock: R1-R2 = 10mm. This is sag WITHOUT rider. The target is 5-15mm. (it was previously 14 when the front was set to 0 turns - but now it is exactly mid-range) R1-R3 = 32mm. This is sag WITH rider. The target is 30-40mm (previously 30) I made no change to the rear spring - but increasing preload on the front by so much appears to have allowed the back to compress appropriately. Front Fork: F1-F2 = 30mm. This is sag WITHOUT rider. The target is 25-30mm (previously 41) F1-F3 = 41mm. This is sag WITH rider. The target is 35-50mm (previously 52) Forks now at 13 turns pre-load Fork Position: Baldini suggested moving the forks up so three rings are showing. GuzziMoto said that decreases rake, potentially decreasing trail and stability for the sake of quick steering and miniscule weight gain to the front. My forks were already set with a touch over 2 rings showing (not sure what factory spec is). Maybe I'll play with the fork height a bit later - just to see if I can tell the difference or not. Ride Report: I took the same loop as after my last adjustment, still really pleased. I can feel the front and back working, it compresses, unweights, and resettles nicely over crests - and it deals competently with all the irregularities of the bumpy-twisties. As for me, I am happy as can be - and feeling much relieved that all four sag specs are within range. FYI on tools - I have not changed the fork oil yet (getting there...) However, I did get the black cap from Kyle racing, which is a very tight fit. Also picked up a fork oil level tool - this looks like the way to do it. In fact, the Ohlins spec sheet does not even list the oil volume - only the oil level (105mm). FWIW the spec sheet also calls for 12 clicks on both compression and rebound.

Fantastic bike - as is. Although there are probably plenty of small things you could do to make it your own if you still want to do something to it - some kind of pricey, some nearly free. If you want a project bike, maybe you should start with one that is not already in such good condition. It's a lot easier to put scratched, faded, or otherwise worn-out parts on the shelf than perfect ones. A conversion project like you're contemplating takes the bike off the road for a while - so you have to factor that in. I'm with stewgnu on at least 2 points - go riding, and "this forum is ace." Like the old Crosby, Stills, & Nash song says: "Love the one you're with." I'm new here too, I recently got got a Scura that I've been tinkering with (and riding as much as possible). If I had your bike (and based on my recent experience), I'd consider some of these mini-projects: Free - chop (and file... and sand) the outer fender behind the license plate Cheap - spray-tint the turn signal lenses Spendy - Ghezzi-Brian carbon fiber inner fender . There are other, easier to install, options, but I am quite happy with the look and function of this one. Of course - make sure all the maintenance is up to date - and if you are unsure about the maintenance history, just do everything and give yourself a fresh start with new fluids, filters, plugs, etc. You may as well introduce yourself to the clutch bleeder... it plays "hard to get." PS - Thumpers are great too!!! ... and so are four-cylinder bikes.... oh, and triples... even some sixes... BUT THERE IS NOTHING LIKE A BIG TWIN.

Here is the link to the coater that did the Quat-D: http://www.performancecoatings.com/index2.html I believe the color was just the Satin Grey. Thanks - I've been working with a very helpful guy at Jet-Hot. They have over-choice on colors and two samples are already on the way (2059 Champagne Gold and 2057 Titanium).

Docc - you've got the California lingo down. FYI to others: When 1960s cars are advertised for sale in California, a "black plate" car generally signifies one that has been continuously registered, and is more "original" than other cars that have had their plates "updated." It's pretty cool that our State government re-released these plates for collectors - and fortuitous timing for Scura-darkeners. Let's see... 20,000 legacy plates times $40 a year extra on the renewal fee... that won't quite balance the California budget, but I'm happy to do my part (because I get a bauble). Meanwhile, supplies arrived in various boxes today. The attentive reader will notice that one of these things may require significant modification to install - or I could put it on the Honda, which has been getting very jealous of all the attention the Scura's been getting. Public Service Announcement If you carry a tire repair kit one of two things will happen: 1) you will never need it, or 2) you will be the hero when your buddy (or a stranger) picks up a nail. If you don't carry said kit... well, that's when you start to see the vultures circling overhead. This one fits (with some persuasion) in the tail section. Four CO2 canisters ought to fill a back tire. Five pieces of beef jerky is more than I can eat during a tire repair; it looks rubbery, but it should keep the vultures distracted.

Cool - we've had two Öhlins-oriented sub-topics. One to help us pronounce Swedish correctly, and another to help us get 'em dialed in for the road - I hope something here can help Camn's bike lose the wobbles. Back to our OCD - Obsessive Compulsive Darkening. I am hoping to receive a street-legal black license plate. In the 1960s, California plates were black with yellow lettering. Our DMV recently made "legacy" plates available and I got my application in on time - and the website has changed from "Applications Received" to "Approved Applications". Hopefully, we will see SCURA or MG SCURA on the back soon. Meanwhile, I will try to time the coating of various parts with an upcoming business trip to minimize my perceived down-time.

Bummer that yours didn't work out. I wonder if you received Chinese imitations without knowing it. Chamberlin mentioned that he knew his were Chinese; they looked the same as some on Rizoma's website - even had the Rizoma logo (see post 137 of this topic). His bike is drop-dead gorgeous and I thought a pair of these smaller ones would be a nice touch - especially next to the Rizoma mirrors, which I assume have the same finish. Oh - and I want a pipe coating close to that color on my bike.

Do you mind explaining why that is a problem? I thought the Rizoma tanks (and the company's products in general) were highly regarded. I think I answered my own question. The vent allows the flexible rubber seal to expand as the parts (brake pads or clutch plate) wear and the fluid moves into the pistons (I knew this already, but I never thought about the fact that there is a vent). My Rizoma tanks are very cleverly and covertly vented. As you can see in the picture, the plastic cap in the metal lid (on left) has a small hole in it. The other side of that cap has a shape that allows free movement of air, which can enter or escape through the two gaps in the threads of the metal cap (at 6 and 12 o'clock positions). Does this address your concern or have I missed something?

Do you mind explaining why that is a problem? I thought the Rizoma tanks (and the company's products in general) were highly regarded.

I talked with some very helpful (and tolerant of newbies) people at Kyle Racing (Öhlins specialist near Laguna Seca Raceway). FWIW - they said they would not bother with changing the oil yet, because it is a closed system and that type of oil does not degrade. But they also recommend a change every few years even with minimal use... so I am just going to do it now, which has the added benefit of helping me learn more about what's going in the forks. Oil and special tools on the way. I could have saved $12 in shipping by picking it up myself. Seriously considered it; they're just up the road a piece... (see map).

Update on living with the chin-spoiler: It was buzzing at about 3,000 RPM. I isolated the buzz by sticking a little piece of split vacuum line in various suspect spots. Once I identified the source (right in front of the side-stand bracket) I sanded the edge down so it was far enough away from the bracket. No more buzzing. It's not particularly fond of getting sprayed with rocks. I bought a clear plastic strip that is intended to protect the kick-plates in car door frames. Trimmed to fit the the bottom - I can barely see it - should have put it on before going mudding the other day. There is still no functional reason to put a chin spoiler on a V11. I still like it very much and would do it again.

Chamberlin - I just found this thread. OMG IMO - with all the work you've done, this bike DESERVES some authentic Rizoma tanks and brackets. I got the same size tanks for brake and clutch - really like the symmetry. Also like that both tanks are perfectly level when the bike is level. Spendy? Yeah, but they're quality - and they're right in my face. Black ones would be nice... Post another pic when you get the CF chin spoiler on? Also - where did you have the pipes coated? Do you remember the name of the color?

The only change I made was to increase the preload by 11 full rotations, because it was (perhaps mistakenly) set at minimum preload. This raised the front and it is more stable (which I called "predictable" earlier, but I think "stable" is a more descriptive word.) I didn't touch the back, and I'm not sure if the previous owner did. I am just in my suspension-tuning infancy here, but I did notice that Camn's front free sag (no rider) was almost identical to my original setting (41 for me and 40 for him). The target range, according to the Ohlins fork manual, is 25-30. I had some high-speed wobbles when mine measured 41, but after adjusting it 11 full rotations (presumably to 30), the wobbles went away (I did not change anything else, not even the damper or tire pressure). Next step for me: try to get all front and rear sag measurements as close to the middle of the factory-spec ranges as possible - and then tinker from there if I still feel the need. If there's ever a trade-off, I prefer stability over quick steering.

The change in preload made such a difference in the ride height that I could feel it the second I got underway. Raising the forks would probably put it back close to the original ride-height. I like big, heavy bikes for long rides - and there's nothing else like a big twin powering up a mountain. It's taken me a while to get my sport-bike feel back. The KTM Adventure that I traded for the Scura probably had twice the suspension travel - and huge knobby tires - so even the incorrectly set Scura felt incredibly precise at first. Back to work today - so I need to take a time-out from my holiday Scura-obsession. However, I'll get this all sorted as soon as possible (and after fresh oil). I appreciate your experience and advice.

I'd be happy to serve as your twisty-road tour-guide.

Our joke in San Diego is that we have four seasons: December, January, February, and Summer. While that's somewhat true for the low-elevation areas, the local mountains get snow every year (see my recent picture in "where the fun starts" thread.) I live at about 50 feet elevation and can be over 5,000 feet within an hour's ride from home. Further North, there are ski resorts in the mountains near Los Angeles. Still further North there is year-round snow and glaciers in the Sierra Nevada mountain range. It's a huge and interesting state. I took a buddy from Stamford, Lincs on a ride here. He nearly wet himself with excitement - and then I told him we were still on the "warm-up" roads. Ocean, desert, and mountains all on the same loop - huge changes in temperature. So - yeah, I'd like some fancy black handguards.

Just froze my fingers this morning at the same temperature. I am now looking into a set. How about these stylish and aerodynamic handguards? I think they go nicely with the pink t-shirt.

WOW! What an amazing difference. I take back everything I said about my ex BMW. Now I would compare the handling favorably to my ex Ducati Sport 1000. 60 miles - half of it the steepest, twistiest roads within range, and then a freeway ride home. The bike feels way more predictable in corners - especially steep downhill curves, where I was previously feeling very hesitant. At 90mph (145kph) it is still rock-solid, even over the "rain-grooves" that are common on California freeways - I had some unnerving wobbles before, tightened the damper one click and still had them, but they are gone now. Thanks everyone for the help. I will keep learning about the suspension settings and check the sag again properly soon - but this is VERY encouraging and probably the most important thing I've done yet to the bike. It seems the previous owner may have made the same mistake as I did (by believing the Ohlins manual) and had it set at minimum preload (but thought it was maximum). Maybe the stock springs will work for me after all. @Camn - I've been to Helsinki in January; I understand. I hope this picture from this morning helps you feel warmer (although I had to stop there to thaw my fingers on the valve covers).