Scud

Here's another attempt. My bike is a 2002. This links one of several bases that I thought might be compatible - for a 2002-2006 MV: http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=23429 This shows the caps, which fit all bases: http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Detail.bok?no=18577 I tried to contact the Driven Racing directly - but they are closed until early January.

Oh - looks like we posted at the same time. I didn't see that you had decided to pass on it.

For comparison, my Scura (which I bought last month) was listed at a dealer for $6,995. It had only 185 miles (not 13,000 like the one you're looking at). No warranty - it was on consignment. I paid the sticker price, but the dealer over-valued my trade-in and helped me with a few other discounts. To me, it was worth potentially paying extra for the rarity, and showroom-new condition. (Actually it felt like a steal compared to buying a new 2014 bike). For the Cafe Sport, in comparison to the Scura: you can avoid the future costs of a new flywheel, re-springing the Ohlins, and repainting the engine. Apparently, all those future costs to me are offset by the little plate with the number 375 on the triple-clamp. The bikes are obviously and significantly different. Rossa is red. Cafe Sport is 50 shades of grey.

Very generous of you. Maybe you could also find some matching black forks to sweeten the deal for me? Seriously - Ohlins parts can be whatever color they want. BTW - I recently learned from a Swedish friend how to pronounce Ohlins: sort of like "Ehr-leans." Put that in a sentence with "Moto-Gootsie" and the average citizen has no idea what you're talking about. All part of the fun... My goal is not to black out everything, it's more to knock down the visual clutter and focus attention on the parts I find interesting (like that silver thing by the triple clamp). I've been chipping away at replacing the silver bolts with black (zinc) bolts. Just did the lower frame mounts, transmission and driveshaft housings, and the starter bolts. Amazingly, I've been able to find exact replacements for almost everything at my local True Value Hardware store. The effect is starting to work - more pics later. I'm seeking advice on a fuel door replacement on the linked thread. I found a luscious black billet one that has a gold trim ring... to match the Ohlins bits. But I can't figure out which one will fit the V11.

I want to replace my fuel door and base with a non-locking screw-top cap. I found a nice black billet aluminum one by Driven, but neither the retailer nor the manufacturer can say which one will fit. Seems to me that Guzzi must have bought these from the same supplier as lots of other manufacturers - this can't be a custom, Guzzi-only part. Here's a link to the part I want, which shows all sorts of likely candidates from MV, Ducati, Triumph, etc. Bases and caps are sold separately, this link only shows the bases. http://stores.sportbiketrackgear.com/Categories.bok The black base and black cap with gold trim would go nicely with the Ohlins on the Scura. Does anybody know what other bikes the fuel filler housing cross-references to?

This is one of my favorite signs. I visited it today shortly after sunrise. It's on Route 74 in Riverside County, California - leaving Hemet on the way to Idyllwild and Palm Desert. Is there a special sign, scene, or other landmark that says to you: "This is where the fun starts."?

Here's how the GPS attaches to the RAM mount. Nice to have a map, clock, turn-by-turn directions when needed - and info regarding the ride - like 191 miles this morning. Finally got around to the transmission and drive oil changes last night. The only remaining original fluid is in the forks. Meanwhile the silver screws and bolts are disappearing - replaced with black ones when possible and painted when not. In this photo, you can see black pinch bolt, frame shroud bolt, and tank pad bolts.

Maybe Santa will bring you a key to his shop. I especially like the seat and am looking forward to seeing it on the bike - but not as much as you are.

Removing the battery and tray is the way to go. I had the nuts inside the fender originally and figured that was a bad idea. Swapping it was a breeze with the battery and tray out of the way. In this picture, you can also see how the fender is not mounted squarely to the bracket - because it aligns to the non-square swingarm. The fender itself would be a breeze to take off and on now - but I'm not sure why I would need to. It just seems to float over the rear wheel and I'm sure I can get the wheel out without removing it. Installing the bracket is what made this a big job. Re payment methods to Bruno at Ghezzi-Brian: I agree. I suggested he at least get a paypal account. I talked my bank into waiving the wire transfer fee - but that could be a big extra cost for some, a hassle for others, which results in no sale for Bruno.

How about a picture with the seat on the bike?

I installed the rear fender and put some more info about it in a new thread. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18833

Here's the finished project:

The Ghezzi-Brian fender didn't come with instructions, so I thought I'd document what I learned in case it could help someone else. First I put the bike on a swingarm stand, blocked the front wheel, and supported it from above with tie-down straps so I could unweight the suspension. This would have worked better with two ratchet tie-downs, but I only had one. The holes were not pre-drilled. The fender is asymetrical, but so is the swingarm. I used a square and a wide board to help me get it lined up and mark the locations for the holes. The block of wood in the fender weighted it so things would stay in alignment. I drilled pilot holes from the bottom, then the final size holes from the top. I inserted a block of wood between the bottom of the shock and the swingarm before trying to remove the shock bolt. This gave me leverage to move the shock and get the bolt out easily. A little waterproof grease on reassembly, along with the wood as a lever, made it easy to get back in. I had to ream the holes in the mounting bracket to get the shock bolt to fit. The mounting hardware is tiny (2.5mm allen wrench and 7mm socket needed). It was difficult to work both sides. If I had to do it again, I'd pay a kid with tiny hands to do it. Or remove the battery and tray to get at the fender bolts from above. If you leave the shock bolt loose, you can flap the fender up and down to get access to the screws and nuts - then position it right where you want it before tightening the nut on the shock bolt.

Fitted the Ghezzi-Brian carbon fiber rear inner fender. It was quite a bit more work than the belly pan, and I am pleased with the result. Went for a quick 30 mile night ride - and the fender stayed on. All is well.

I don't have any experience with the parts - so can't help there. However, I'm curious about why you want the new headers. Are you trying to solve a cosmetic or mechanical problem? If cosmetic, have you considered ceramic coating the existing parts? I've been thinking about that myself. Supposedly, there are performance advantages (heat management and durability) - and you get the bonus of a custom look. If you're solving a mechanical problem, maybe get the less expensive stock ones and spend the extra on the coating. I haven't done this either, but here's one site I've been looking at: http://www.performancecoatings.com/headercoatings.html

To continue my darkening game, I made a another trip to my local hardware store, where I discovered a very nice selection of black fasteners. IMO black parts should have black fasteners; chrome and silver fasteners draw attention away from the more interesting parts. Sometimes, it's all about what you don't see instead of what you do see, as in the attached, which shows three replaced bolts (lower triple clamp) and one painted bolt (fairing). So far, I have darkened over 80 fasteners - and I have not even done the valve covers (which will be 16 more if I can find them in black). Edit/warning: The zinc-plated bolts are not suitable. There are two types of black zinc coatings, one looks flat and the other looks semi-glossy. The flat finish rusts quickly. I didn't see any rust yet on the semi-gloss ones (which is a more durable finish), but I did learn that they are not recommended for outdoor use. The original bolts are going back in (after paint or powder coat). Interestingly, the bolts for the Napoleon mirrors are black, but the finish appears different still - like they have some kind of heavy duty clear coat.

Valve stems on Amazon.com for $25: Here's the item description: 83deg Aluminum 8.3mm Racing Angled Valve Stem - Black - 2 Pack To install the Nappies: I held the nut in a vise-grip and used a bench grinder to grind down the flange till it fit inside the threaded bar-ends. Reducing the diameter of the rubber bushing is harder. I mounted it on a long bolt with various washer and nuts to keep it firmly in shape (stepped-diameter inside the bushing). Then I used the wire wheel on the bench grinder to get it down to size. The Nappies have a screw to adjust the tension for the stalk rotation. Too loose and the mirrors shake like mad. Too tight and you can't rotate the stalks.

Even though I am having fun wrenching, it IS ultimately all about riding - which is why I am so amazed the previous owner only did 185 miles in 12 years... And I FINALLY got a decent ride in today. Between travel, work, waiting to get good tires on, then rain (and scary-sandy roads), I've been itching to get out into the mountains. Grabbed a window of time and did about 140 miles of mostly curvy roads this afternoon. Over 1,200 miles on it now. Totally thrilled with this bike. If it's true that the Ohlins are set up for a 150-160 pound rider, I may have lucked out. I'm 165 and feeling pretty good about the suspension. Very happy with the new tires. Per your earlier question re mirrors. I've settled in with the mirrors at 45-degree angles - nice wide view and for some reason they seem to vibrate less than when sticking straight up.

It's been raining in San Diego (much needed). Meanwhile, a little more darkness also moved in over the Scura. Installed the chin spoiler (aka belly pan) from Ghezzi-Brian. See the thread "Chin Spoiler Search" for discount code good till year-end. I also got Ghezzi-Brian's carbon fiber rear inner fender - but didn't install it yet, because I only have a swingarm lift and need to get the tension off the shock bolt to install the bracket. I am currently fenderless. The new fender is way smaller than the stock one; it will show a lot more tire and other interesting mechanical stuff. Darkening in the back includes: Shortened the outer fender (quite a lot of parts and wires need to be removed to get that thing off) Removed the California vapor canister Tinted the indicators (please excuse the electrical tape on one, I over-tightened the screw and broke the lens) Painted the chrome plastic tail light base (all except for the reflective part by the light) Painted a few more bolts or screw heads: rear fender, passenger peg brackets, side panels, seat lock, screws that held stock fender - and added neoprene washers to cover the threaded inserts Time to go riding...

Here's another clean Champagne LeMans in Los Angeles, which has been for sale for a long time. The one in Texas is a bargain. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/mcy/4785183822.html

I failed at installation today, because I only have a stand that lifts the swingarm. I have not figured out how to raise the bike in a way that will release the pressure on the shock so I can remove and reinstall the bolt easily. However, I took a couple photos to show how the bracket and fender will be positioned. They will protect the shock-eye from tire spray. The stock fender left it wide open to spray - probably even channeled extra spray onto it. This makes a lovely retrospective rationalization for my purchase...

I didn't install the rear fender yet. To do so, I will need to remove the rear bolt for the shock in order to install the bracket. Unlike the chin spoiler, the holes are not pre-drilled in the fender - but all the screws and washers are included. The CF fender is a lot smaller than the stock piece, but it seems like it will still offer pretty good protection from spray. I'll post a picture in a few days.

Chin spoiler went on easily. Four L-shaped brackets using the four corner bolts of the oil pan - each of which takes a rubber compression fitting with a built-in rubber washer for the inside of the spoiler. I think I will get some little rubber washers for the outside - just to minimize the stress around the screw holes.

I got a package from Italy today. It appears that the chin spoiler will bolt right on with the supplied hardware, but I will need to drill holes in the rear fender to mount it with the supplied bracket. The weave of the carbon fiber material is a bit finer than the stock Scura parts, but they look really good - and they weigh nothing. Should be able to install this weekend.

Looking good. That transfer printing is getting better all the time. A pieces of CF look cool - but as Steve said, it's possible to go too far with it. I like the look of the CF front fender on my Scura. Cool thing about wraps - if you don't like them, you can always peel them off. Try it and see.