Scud

Before I took the heads apart, I took a video showing how the RH intake rocker arm could slide easily up and down the shaft, making a lot of noise. Then I did the same test on the LH side and the LH exhaust made a similar (but lesser noise). I will get that posted soon - and before I pull the barrel. I had the pistons out when I painted the heads and barrels. Everything looked smooth and perfect. On that bearing... is that something you've done any maybe could find a part number? If not, I can take measurements and try to find the correct bearing. I might like to test that bearing (or new springs) before doing anything else. The spring has a washer on each side. Would the bearing replace all three parts?

Very funny. Most people would consider the internal pump to be an upgrade. The sleeves and heat-shrink ends are available in smaller sizes. I don't think it would cost much to put heat-shield on all the high-pressure lines to the throttle bodies. If I had known about these when I replaced all those 8mm lines I would have used it.

Thanks guys. I'll probably get a little further into late this afternoon. Got a little work today, but it's 40 miles from home and I'm going to take a shortcut* *a shortcut is the twistiest route between any two points. In this case, the shortcut on the way home will probably be over 100 miles.

I couldn't find injection-style clamps either. I re-used the original clamps. The finished OD of the hose is 23mm.

So you'd leave the piston on the rod - not disconnect the wrist pin to take piston off with the barrel? That's how I did it before when I painted the barrels, but I think somebody said it's better to leave the piston in... or maybe it doesn't really matter which way it's done?

Hey guys, I could use a little hand-holding here. I can't see anything wrong with the head and piston appears to be in correctly, with the large recess on the intake side. Oil came out of all the places that it seems like it is supposed to flow. What seems to be the next best step? If I pull the piston and barrel will I be able to get the lifters out and see the cam lobes well enough to know if that's the problem? Or do I drop the pan and disconnect the "big ends" of the connecting rods? Or something else? Or all of the above? I bet you guys think I know what I'm doing here... but I don't. I've never assembled an engine to the point of installing a camshaft, crank, or connecting rods (though I have taken some apart that never went back together.)

Here's my Scura, wearing her latest dark-fashion accessory. The 15 year old hose was still OK, but definitely harder and less flexible than the new hose. If you have smallish hands, you can replace the hose by just propping up the tank, not totally removing it. LowRyter's is on the way and I have a couple more I can ship immediately. I just ordered some more of the heat shrink ends so I can use the balance of the fuel line and heat shield. I can make 1, maybe 2 more than I originally thought, so if you all buy these, there will some money leftover for Jaap (forum donation).

Tinus - I think you'll be fine. From what I can see, the engine tends to move more in the short-frame bikes (is that what KR means?) than in the long-frame, later bikes. It is especially noticable with a rough idle. So you might just make sure you have a smooth, balanced idle, or adjust the idle speed up a bit to smooth it out. I dropped off a 2002 lower subframe for SP838 in New York a while back. He was going to try fitting it to his red-framed Sport. It would require: Machining down the surface on the large diagonal cross-brace that mates to the LH porkchop One of the following: Remove the bars that go forward to the engine block Tap holes in the engine block for the mounting bolts

FYI - the Speedhuts didn't have any posts. I glued the lamp-nuts onto the backs and screwed the posts into them. The crossbars are what you use to mount lights into electrical boxes on the wall or ceiling.

Here's how I re-used the rubber mounts on my 2003 LeMans that originally had ITI gauges. The metal parts are all from the electrical section of a a hardware store. You can adjust the height of the cross bar on the threaded lamp rod and align the mounts on the slots with lock washers. I think that image, and several others got PhotoBlocketed on the Speedhut thread. I need to restore those at some point.... I hope this helps you though. edit: not sure what's gone wrong, but I can't post a picture right now. If you want to see how I did it, send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send the pic directly to you.

I'm strongly leaning toward a Husqvarna 701 Enduro. I'd like to be able to technical dirt riding and would be willing to sacrifice some "touring" comfort for that.

You'll probably need new fork springs after saving all that weight. Seriously - that's a good find on that speed sender unit. If I know about that, I would have used it instead of buying a more expensive GPS speedo when I did my Speedhut gauges. Once you verify that it sends a signal from transmission to electronic speedo, maybe you could add it to our Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts? Will you be able to cover the gauges - or just leave them open underneath the flyscreen?

Just to restate: I believe this brace adds no additional protection to the transmission case in a 2002 and later motorcycle - in fact it won't even fit without welding, which, IMO would be a waste of time. No reason a Tennista to buy one - unless you plan to get an early sport to keep her company.

Feel free to post pics of the Eastern Sierras. I love that place.

Well, since you asked... How about "paranoid-catastrophic"? The factory already did the mod for you by heavily reinforcing two subframes in the 2002 and later models. Just ride it.

All true. But for the moment, they are super-cheap and readily available from Moto International. *while supplies last* But Cory, the frame on your Rosso Corsa does not have a place to mount the bracket - so you couldn't use it without welding something onto your frame. I think the lower subframe on your bike does a far better job of holding the driveline in place than the little bracket. In short: ride it hard as-is. If you want a little extra assurance, maybe you should check that the tranny top-mount bolt is not over-torqued.

Ah... I missed that. Well, Foto's moved on anyway. For the right price, that bike would clean up pretty easily and it's not missing too many parts.

I used the EBC HH pads, which I think is the same. That's what Gordon at MG Cycle recommended, and where I sourced the pads and rotors. The brakes are butter-smooth now.

When I see something like that it makes me wonder what other silly things might have been done. I think that round chrome thing might be a horn, not a breather vent. Fotoguzzi can inspect it for us.

She's a looker all right. The kind of girl that could make you lose your happy home. Maybe she'd look good where an MZ currently lives? She liked her last trip to the Santa Monica Mountains.

OEM Part Name: Brembo Brake Caliper Rebuild Kit - Front and Rear Moto Guzzi Part Number: (I couldn't find a part number for the rebuild kit) Replacement Part Brand or Source: Powerhouse-UK (also an eBay seller) Part number or other identifier: I didn't see part numbers, but they have recently listed Moto Guzzi V11s so you can search by model. Differences from OEM (if any): these are aftermarket seals, not genuine Brembo. But the Brembo ones are difficult to find and this seems like a high-quality vendor. Here are links to 5 different kits they have identified for Moto Guzzi V11 calipers: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a3e17cb35 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item238f4fecaf http://www.ebay.co.u...=item25e1581b5d http://www.ebay.co.u...=item2a90062a13 http://www.ebay.co.u...=item238f503615 I just installed a front kit for two calipers (8 hydraulic seals, 8 dust seals, 2 O-rings, 4 copper crush washers, 2 bleeders, 2 bleeder caps) and am pleased with the outcome. I have not used the rear kit yet, but member Cabernet has and he said it worked well. The instructions on the kit say to use brake fluid or rubber grease when inserting the pistons into the new seals - but they supplied a small packet of brake assembly fluid. I decided to use Red Rubber Grease for assembly and it worked well.

I have never seen a Rosso Mandello, but my understanding is that the frame and 3 subframes are the same as all the other red-frame bikes - just painted black for this special edition. Therefore this failure would not necessarily be relevant to the 2002 and later models.

I would ride it for the rest of the season and then pull the transmission out from the back. If you split the cases, you will know for sure if it is cracked. If it's cracked, you can ask a welder for advice. Or could buy a used case or complete tranny. If you can't find a local one, I have a spare black (smooth finish) tranny from a 2004. I would also install the tranny to frame brace. There is a limited supply of NOS braces available - I just bought one from Moto International. I assume TLM can find one for you.

Yeah - aluminium carriers. And I think the friction ring probably weighs a bit less too, due to the scallops that are cut in. I wish I had thought to weigh them, but I do recall thinking they were noticeably lighter than the worn take-offs. Just went for little night romp in the canyon. They feel great. I'm not sure how much of it is due to the new rotors and pads, but I assume a lot of the improved feel is due to new seals in the calipers and buffing the pistons with a scotch-brite pad. I also liked the idea of the rubber grease on the pistons to keep them moving freely out - and especially back in. Makes me want to rebuild some more calipers. And have I mentioned that Dunlop Roadsmart IIIs are my new favorite tire?

Wow, that looks like a great deal for a low-mile, well-equipped bike. Ohlins shock, Mistral Carbon exhaust, older headers (no crossover), bar-end mirrors, wide footpegs, different horn. Downside appears to be: missing the pillion seat cover. Go have a look - but don't let them take your DR650.