Scud

The new spring on my Scura broke as you described, Czakky. Perhaps it would be good to slightly round the edge of the arm where the small 90 of the spring makes contact. The one that broke Saturday is in my picture above. It broke on the coil. I rode it to work today. But I wasted Sunday afternoon on the repair. I wonder if a U-hook at the arm would be more durable than a 90-degree bend. I'll look and see if there is enough clearance to install a U-hook. Meanwhile, I sent a photo and inquiry to WB Jones Spring Co (link above) in Wilder, Kentucky.

So true. I traced my line through the curve with my mouse about 5 times. Nice trees too...

gstallons mentioned that he had a Racecraft spring - stronger than the original (although it might no longer be available). I'd be happy with a stronger spring in the original position - I'm not excited about drilling another hole in the cover. I just found this place that makes custom springs: https://www.springsfast.com/custom-extension-springs.php?ex=eep549-chxfib-0&gclid=Cj0KCQiArYDQBRDoARIsAMR8s_SL-TDDqDrKHZ4DOJUOtzgCa0VtWWMW148EpRo3laV-ummOm5cgh3AaAnEXEALw_wcB I'll send them a picture and measurements and see what's involved in making some thicker/stronger springs. As for why they keep breaking - it could be a quality issue. I pre-emptively replaced the shift spring on my Scura with a new one (from Moto Guzzi). It broke within a few thousand miles. Luckily, I kept the original - put it back in and it's been OK for a while.

Something like that might work if the loop could fit over the button on the arm. There's more clearance under the bottom gear (which is the top, open position in the photo). For the record, I had previously installed this shift pre-selector from 2004 V11. It had the "banana" upgrade. I previously thought the broken shift springs were mostly on the 2002 models. I put my LeMans back together with a standard spring, but I have the spare (2003 model) to play with and take measurements if needed. There are at least 3 variations on the shift pre-selector mechanism. But they all use the same spring and I think this coil spring fix would fit all variations. @Dave - yeah, I think it's conceptually as simple as you stated. But I think it all needs to get measured and tested. I'm just hoping we could either build a kit or describe the parts in enough detail that anyone could do it without further experimentation.

Great photo. Got any more? What were you riding?

That's the one. Chuck offered, in another thread, to machine something if needed. It seems to me that a custom-made post would be in order. Something that is fairly wide at the base to prevent rocking - and with a standard diameter to go through the case so it could be drilled out by a home mechanic like me. If you have the correct spring in hand, then I suppose the top end could be machined to accommodate it securely. So that's my wish... a custom-machined stud, a proper-strength and size spring, whatever mounting hardware is required, and some guidance about where (and what size) to drill the hole. That would make a fine kit. And how did the spring attach to the arm? Did it use the existing mount - or did that need to be replaced? I think it was replaced. If so, that might require a second custom-machined bit.

Looking good next to those lovely Gauges. And I note that this little upgrade can be done in 17 minutes or less.

Can we pool our collective experience and semi-mass produce a kit to replace the problematic shift lever spring with a coil? I just broke my second spring and am not looking forward to the possibility of another breaking in an inconvenient location (like the Mojave Desert). If the Indiana R&D team (Chuck and Footgoose) can figure out how to source stuff, I will contribute the pre-selector. I'll even send you a whole transmission if you think you need it. Of course, I'd like it back... But you can take your time since it's a spare. I've already done the polishing on this pre-selector per Phil's write-up. But I didn't get it adjusted correctly (ended swapping pre-selectors). http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19547&hl= I also installed a bearing on this one - instead of a solid disc for the detent gear. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&p=213785 And can somebody post the links to the coil spring modification? I tried a few searches and didn't find it yet.

Ha... I've done it twice. Previous owners of my LeMans and Greenie both disabled the switches. I re-enabled the switches immediately after both touch-downs.

Settling in with the Greenie... Thought I was getting great gas mileage, but then determined that the low-fuel light is no longer coming on. Barely avoided pushing... sputtered into the gas station... 5.1 gallons to full. Replaced a bunch of black-anodized fasteners with stainless: flyscreen, front fender, and some other bits. It's funny that the Greenie had so many dark-anodized bolts, while my Scura had all silver... and speaks to some sort of weird obsession that I compulsively replaced them on both bikes... Some people just can't leave shit alone. Put some Titanium pins in the front brake calipers. On my recent trip to Phoenix, my return trip was at night. Behind the flyscreen was way too bright. I literally "stuffed a sock in it" to prevent the headlight from reverse-illuminating the instruments and impairing my night-vision. So... foam strip from the hardware store has solved the problem. While I was at it, I installed an LED headlight that I got a while back from MartyNZ, but would not fit in the Scura's small plastic bucket. The Greenie's headlight and metal bucket is bigger - easy fit and far better light. Then, a little night-ride to check on my Daughter's High School's Winter Formal pre-gathering at her friend's house... the Greenie got surrounded by boys while I was leaving and I forgot to put the sidestand up. Hit it pretty hard on my first left... managed to stay on the bike. Fortunately, this occurred out of sight of said boys. That's when I remembered that the PO had removed the little button from the sidestand (leaving wire in place). No damage, button is now back in... and the electronic nanny-feature can protect me again. Ordered some silver Rizoma fluid tanks from Moto Forza (my local Ducati, Husqvarna, and MV dealer that had a devastating fire recently). Their new shop is super cool and I'm glad they have been able to re-open. I'm gonna try to buy more stuff from them. Heard a salesman in an ankle boot and crutches telling a prospective buyer how they could increase one of the Ducati's horsepower from something like 211 to something like 228. Wondered why and got back on my V11.

If gstallons doesn't buy the kit, I'll take it. That looks like a good value, and I just broke a shift spring.

I was thinking very much about that on the way home... in between the curse words echoing in my helmet.

Me too. But on my recent trip to Phoenix, I had it fully expanded and packed with heavy stuff. On the way home, there were severe crosswinds and I was constantly pushing it back up onto the tank. Admittedly, that was an extreme situation, but I do think the bag would be more stable in all situations without the pad.

I think I broke a pawl spring on my LeMans today. I was able to sneak in a few shifts after braking (which throws the arm forward). Fortunately, it happened close to home. One I got it in 3rd, I left it there and tried to time the remaining stops so I could roll through - but it can be coaxed to start in 3rd from a standstill. Oh joy... I get to smell gear oil tonight or tomorrow.

The Scura has a carbon fiber "pad" that is the same shape and size as the rubber pad. I agree that it's a hassle with a tank bag - a fully loaded bag will tip left or right. And the tank pad interferes with the mounting rings (at least the one I looked at while ago). I was thinking about making a wood piece to replace the tank pad. But much lower so it would be flush with the tank and fuel door. It had not occurred to me to wrap it leopard print fabric until just now.

So unfortunate that they call it the Clan. Maybe that's fine in some countries, but it sounds like something I want to stay far away from in the US. Back to bikes... somebody posted on WG that there will be a mini Stelvio, and that Moto Guzzi's Facebook page shows a single track through the desert. Me like single track in desert. Dessert?

You need to match up Neutral on the cover and the gearbox. Cover: Cory and Chuck have described the cover well. Just make sure the two dots line up at some point, which might be neutral... but like they said, you will find it as a half-step between first and second. Gearbox: Get the rear wheel off the ground. Slide the selector arms back and forth on the rods and notice how the cogs engage and disengage the drive gears. You need to adjust the arms until you can turn the rear wheel freely. After both of those are set, I suggest dry-mounting the cover and running through the gears with the rear wheel still up. Then put it in neutral, remove cover, apply sealant and do your final install.

I agree. And if there's a small leak from the head gasket, it's worth trying to re-torque the heads first to see if that stops the leak (or slows it to a tolerable level). But then... if the gaskets are already in the mail and you like wrenching more than watching basketball, go ahead. I can understand that too.

There's a handy page near the front with nothing but torque values, including the one you asked about. That page is worth printing or keeping as an easy access file on your phone.

My first guess is fuel starvation. Maybe replace the fuel filter as a quick and cheap first step. Then look at the condition of fuel lines and pump. My Greenie had similar, but more severe, symptoms (also got her in exchange for a song). It turned out that the inlet to the fuel pump was partially blocked by decayed bits of the fuel line. The Greenie is external pump, and your 2003 LeMans has internal - so the pieces are different, but the principle should be the same.

The failure point for the stock ones and the Joe Kenny's will be where the guards mount to the heads. I saw this on my crashed parts-bike. One guard had failed on two of the four mounting points, leaving the equivalent of a washer between the bolt head and the rocker cover. They are designed to fail at that point to dissipate the energy of impact. Joe Kenny's are a bit thicker in that area. I can't say whether that's good or bad for the head. But what is good about Joe Kenny's and other aftermarket guards is that they stick out farther than the OEM. With the OEM, the guard and spark plug boot will hit the ground at about the same time. A bigger guard reduces the risk of damage to plug boot or the plug itself. When I dropped my Scura at 0MPH on the right, the spark plug bent a little, but didn't break. I had OEM guards on at the time. Now I have some from MotoBits.

Corey - I have the ones in your picture on my Greenie. They are expertly machined with attention to detail. Even the eagles both fly forward on the bike (or I suppose you could make them both fly backward if you were so inclined.

Great shop, I must go visit one day. You could hide the Silver Sport at my house for a while...

I took this pic at the recent San Diego (Lake Henshaw) rally, which Groundhog helped organize. It shows much (but not all) of Groundhog's bike.

Make sure to get all the O-rings too. Six small per side on the studs - and one large per side for the cap in the head that gives access to the top head nut. Are you doing the timing cover gasket "while you're there"?