Scud

Yeah, that's the weak spot. It occurred to me that some transmission cracks could be caused by over-tightening the nut on the top-mount bolt that you pointed out. It's a Ny-lock nut, so it's not going to rattle off. I only snugged it up. I also think the cracks (which are most common at the LH side of the upper transmission mount that bolt goes through) can be due to torque reaction while running. The Greenie was running very poorly when I got it and I noticed how the whole engine seemed to twist in the frame when I blipped the throttle. In later years, the front subframe frame is beefier, but I think the most significant change was the addition of a diagonal brace from lower RH porkchop to LH porkchop where the shock reservoir mounts (the brace that also makes it impossible to remove the clutch slave). That brace is exactly at the right angle to stop the torque reaction I noticed in the unbraced greenie. I think the brace I just added also serves to stabilize the whole drivetrain against the torque reaction against the frame. Now the tranny is mounted to frame at three points instead of two. If I recall correctly, this was Docc's experience too - the brace was added to his bike on warranty after a problem and he's had many miles since with no tranny leakage problems.

Good eye. I thought they were different than the black ones, but I hadn't figured out how. The titanium color is a little darker than the dash and triple clamp. The silver might be closer if you care about that. But I think the titanium might be go well with the Tenni's tank color. Here's the detail I copied from my order confirmation e-mail: Bike : Ducati 748 UP TO 1998 [DB-12/DC-12] Length : Short Levers Lever Color: : Titanium Adjuster Color: : Black

Ohlins, Titanium Kit Racing exhaust... those are plusses. But why the repaint, bar end mirrors, and new exhaust? Has it been down? A broken rear brake pedal says "yes." Odd that a dealer would offer a bike with a broken brake pedal. Proceed with ultra-caution on that Scura - and budget a clutch replacement.

Today, I removed this sticker. After 17 years, the paint is a little different underneath - but I'll cover it up with a tank protector soon. While I was at it, I installed this NOS transmission bracket, which I picked up from Moto International for cheap. This is to prevent the transmission case from cracking. It's rather tricky to get tools on the upper fasteners, but easier with the fuel pump out of the way. I installed the aftermarket fuel pump, which MG Cycle promotes as a plug-n-play. That's almost true, it's a bit longer the the original pump so I shortened the line to the filter. It also requires a little creativity to mount. I just wrapped it in some old inner tube to get the right thickness. I also made a fuel supply line. Surprising how hard it is to find true 12mm fuel line. The heat sleeve and rubber shrink ends are by HeatShield Products. I'm pleased with how it turned out and need to add one of these black lines to the Scura. And while I was doing all that, the postman brought a little package from MotoMummy - Pazzo levers. Titanium color shortys with black adjusters. MotoMummy sells a pair for $150 with free shipping. That's $50 less than most places. Test ride for fish tacos at sunset...

All the best on the return trip. Will you spend the extra by finding something interesting on the way home... like the long way through the Rockies?

IMO, it's only an ADV bike if: Knobby tires on spoked wheels You can crash it in the dirt or bounce it off a tree and not care It weighs closer to 500 pounds than 600 (and ideally less than 500) It has serious suspension travel You can take it on intermediate to difficult technical terrain Your buddies on "real" dirt bikes make you pose for "embarrassing" photos if you get stuck on something simple (like this trench I dug with the rear wheel).

How about some studded ones? http://www.oberon-performance.co.uk/acatalog/Ducati_Front_Studded_Pegs.html I think our pegs are compatible with Ducati Monsters.

I've lubed a few of these, and each one allows grease to escape in the same area. I think it's by design. If you put too much grease and it can't escape then you are changing the alignment of the whole drive system.

Used crankcase breather hose and zip ties? Seriously - maybe something from an ADV bike. But I don't have the answer.

Seems like a lot of extra work to pull the arms for that test. I did this test recently, but at TDC following these steps: raise the rear wheel (using factory stand) put bike in gear, turn rear wheel to find TDC (spark plugs out). lower bike (still in gear) then pressurize cylinder with tester The wheel on the ground eliminates the risk of piston movement. You don't even have to take the valve covers off to do it this way - because if piston is at top, you either get some pressure (valves closed) or no pressure (valves open). You can put light pressure into the cylinder at step 2 above to verity that it's at TDC. If you guessed wrong, spin the wheel again. There are plenty of videos of leakdown tests on YouTube. If you buy a leak down tester, it will probably come with useful instructions. I got the OTC Cylinder Leakage Tester. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030EVL60/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Send me a message with your address. You can keep it. But I might redeem it for a beer next time I'm in NYC. BTW, the axle form the 2002 bike takes a 10mm hex wrench. The axle on my 2000 Greenie takes an 8mm.

I had a KTM 950 Adventure for a while. A very good motorcycle in all types of terrain, but a bit thirsty and a bit tedious to work on. I traded it in when I got my Scura, but sometimes I miss the KTM. I've been eying the Africa Twin - but also thinking that a Husqvarna 701 might work. After all, people tour all over on KLR 650s. The Husky 701 is so good off road that it could potentially replace my TE450 Husqvarna. Then there is the new Yamaha T7... which I suppose will be available as a 2018 model? I've rented a BMW GS twice. They're great road bikes and were perfect for the dirt roads I took them on, but they're just too big for the sort of technical dirt riding (rocks, roots, ruts, etc.) that I would want to do as part of a proper "adventure."

Good news. And where is that rattling check-valve, exactly? I'd like to try that test on my noisy champagne LeMans. Bad news. A leak-down test will tell you more about the condition of the rings than a compression test. You need an air compressor and leak-down tester - or you could have a shop do this simple test. With a leakdown test, you can hear exactly where the compressed air is escaping and know for sure if it is rings, intake valve, or exhaust valves. And if it runs fine... ride it. Wrench when winter comes.

Public service announcement: A limited supply of transmission brackets is available. I just got this one delivered from Moto International. It cost $14.63 plus $4.00 shipping, no mounting hardware included. They could not tell me how many were available, only that they are limited. LowRyter and his mechanic, Don, fabricated one for him and decided to make a batch to sell. I've been trying to buy one for a while, but they were still not ready when I happened to notice they were available on Moto International's website. Don's brackets will be more expensive, but they will be powdercoated red and come with mounting hardware.

That's a proper adventure off to a good start. The brick is the support vehicle right? He doesn't get to park with you at the BBQ, but he's carrying everybody's clothes in the saddlebags and the BMW 22L top-case with the rear-hinged lid that needs a bungee strap so it doesn't open at speed and blow off... scattering your socks and skivvies...

...then I would buy another Scura and pocket the (substantial) difference.

Have a great trip. Looking forward to the updates.

The guys at Powerhouse in the UK were super helpful. They have now listed 5 different kits for V11 Sport/Lemans brake caliper rebuilds, including a set of stainless steel pistons for the fronts. Here are the links: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-2001-2004-Brembo-front-brake-caliper-seal-repair-kit-/181430373173?hash=item2a3e17cb35 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-1999-2005-rear-brake-caliper-seal-repair-rebuild-kit-/152728235183?hash=item238f4fecaf http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-1999-2005-rear-brake-caliper-piston-seal-repair-kit-/162694437725?hash=item25e1581b5d http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-Sport-Front-Brake-Caliper-Stainless-Steel-Piston-Set-/182804949523?hash=item2a90062a13 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moto-Guzzi-V11-Le-Mans-Brembo-Goldline-front-caliper-brake-pad-retaining-pins-/152728253973?hash=item238f503615 I ordered seals for fronts and rear. They combined shipping.

I failed to tighten a brand new breather hose (on two separate occasions, cuz I 'm a slow learner). Both times, it made a huge mess on nothing more than a 5-mile shakedown ride. I don't know the quantity lost, but it made a significant puddle in the garage.

1) Agreed, but since the wheels are different widths, it's worth being aware before having something machined. SP can pull his and inspect/compare if he ends up with a later axle. 2) Yeah, I think the nuts are the same, but I think the RH sides in 2000 vs 2002 take a different size hex wrench - and I think the 2002 takes a larger wrench.

I think I have one from a 2002 LeMans with minor road rash on the non-threaded end. I can check on Thursday if you don't find one sooner/closer. I think the size of the bolt head is larger in later years, but I also think that all other dimensions are the same. However, this is worth verifying, because the wheels are different widths (for 10mm wider tire in 2002 - although the hubs are probably the same width.

Thanks. I was having a hard time moving just one piston with various clamps and wedges - so frustration was the mother of invention here. As Cabernet mentioned on the last page, I suspect this is a short-term fix, so I'll get a set of seals in. There's an e-bay seller in the UK called powerhouse-uk that lists an aftermarket seal kit for Moto Guzzi V11 front calipers. They make caliper rebuild kits for many bikes, so I have also inquired about the rear caliper.

The exact dimensions are not essential, I just started with whatever block I had that seemed close enough and cut it without measuring. But here are the measurements of the final product: 70mm x 37mm x 20mm. The step thickness is 7mm (13mm cut away from the 20mm side) to allow one piston out. After measuring, I "promoted" it from the wood block box to the tool box. I think it will be handy for simple cleaning too - to work one piston at a time.

I've been struggling with my LeMans' dragging brakes for a little while. A week ago, I swapped the calipers for a used set I had - but they were dragging too. So I figured I'd pop the pistons out and do a serious cleaning. I made this little tool out of a block of wood block so I could pop out one piston at a time with compressed air. Here's what I did: Piston in Ultrasonic cleaner with Simple Green for a couple minutes. Wipe out open cylinder and seal with paper towel. Reinstall piston (using just a bit of brake fluid as lube) Repeat for other three pistons. Six of the eight cylinders had visible debris in them. All the seals released a bit of dirt when I wiped them with the paper towel. Now the wheel turns freely and the feel is vastly improved.

That's what Admin Jaap is riding too. I found another thread about it: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19071