Scud

I do have almost everything needed. Besides what's pictured, you would need: 5 of the softer clutch springs to alternate with the 5 new firm ones 6 flywheel bolts and washers 1 new retaining washer for the transmission input hub The above is at a minimum. The friction discs and intermediate plate have some life left in them, but you might prefer new parts. If you want to do it yourself, you will need a clutch installation/alignment tool (not pictured) Special socket to remove the shallow (single-plate) input hub from your transmission and replace with the deeper (twin-plate) input hub Input hub wrench

It's one of those long complicated stories that adds mystery and intrigue to owning one of the three "special" V11s. Here's a recent chapter from that story: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19510

Swapping for a twin plate is the easiest, and most common solution to this problem. The clutch itself is pretty easy to replace - it's getting access to it that's the hard part. You have to remove either the engine or the transmission - as you'll see when you read the various clutch threads. Your bike (along with Scuras and Tennis) came with a great-performing clutch - attached to a too-soft flywheel. And the problem is actually with the flywheel, not the clutch. The twin plate clutch uses a different flywheel. It will not be quite as crisp when it engages, but the difference is subtle. I think you'd be very happy for a long time with a more durable twin-plate clutch and flywheel. ...and as it happens, I have almost everything you'd need. I'll go double-check my stash.

How do you like the Scura fairing at speed? Are you planning to keep it black? I have a LH rider peg in good condition - looks like you've found everything else.

Here's my trouble-shooting for today: Replaced all four throttle body rubbers, and ran it with the tank from the Champagne bike (needed to wire up an electronic petcock bypass plug so it would run - but did not make a "go-winkie" out of it.) It still had the severe hesitation and cut-out around 3,500 rpm or at about 1/2 throttle. I did notice that the oil light came on at start - and it had not previously come on with the green tank. The PO said he had been working on some trouble with the dash lights. Based on the above I hoped the problem would be a blocked fuel filter. So I replaced it with a Wix 33310 (and a wrap of leftover dirt-bike inner tube to get it to fit in the clamps). While I was in there I also put on a correct breather hose and got rid of all the PO's bright yellow zip ties (replaced with black). Green tank back on... oil light no longer comes on with key... runs even worse... barely starts then dies... put gas in tank... Much better.... But not good enough. It idles OK, but still a little rough. There is still the 3,500 RPM cut-out that makes it unrideable. Next up is electrical stuff - Guzzi Diag, TPS, basic tune-up (but valve adjustment already done). Transmission leak is enough to be concerned about - it's dripping onto the crossover. It seems to be leaking from between the cases. ...and here's a one-man tank-compression installation technique:

I've never tried it, but I'll bet you could rig up some sort of hillbilly thing with air pressure and a gauge to see where it blows off? There's gotta be *some* reason for 2 pumps going tits up. I did this to set the pressure on the aero engine pressure relief valve.. Thanks Chuck - It occurred to me to try the Champagne tank on the Greenie, since I also wanted to see if the manual petcock (Greenie has electric) cures the Greenie's fuel starvation issue. I'm playing Dr. Frankenstien today...

She's cleaning up nicely... cleaning TBs and replacing boots. Gonna try running it with the champagne tank with the manual petcock. It occured to me that the electric petcock might only open partially - which could cause the apparent fuel starvation. Air box and filter are like new - so that's one thing ruled out. The mirrors "fell off" as some chrome Napoleons arrived while I was in NY.

Thanks for the suggestions. I might start looking into the Greenie today. One item of note - it has an electric petcock. Should that be replaced with a manual petcock? (I have one readily available).

Each pump sat with fuel in it for a several hours. I can try the pumps again (maybe with non-flammable diesel this time). Do you know how to test the pressure regulator without fuel? Like, can I use air pressure somehow? (I haven't found anything yet by searching).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sh6ATTHsVOo I like how visible all the elements of the frame are on this build. Lots of great details too.

You don't seem boring, therefore, you must be lucky. Happy almost 50th. Time for the 50-year-old-man preventative maintenance checks...

The pump is under the frame - it pumps gas up to the filter, which is on top of the frame. I don't like what I see here... and I'm bummed about leaking gas on a freshly painted (and not yet heat-cured) engine. http://vid1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6111.mp4 The fuel is coming up around the electrodes. Both pumps are doing that. I took them off and applied current directly to them. They both pump gas into the measuring cup, but they both leak fuel at the electrodes while doing so. I suppose it's time for a new pump. But I'm concerned that I may have damaged these two somehow - and don't want to ruin a new one. Both pumps came off bikes that were running, both sat for probably at least two years, and both leaked at the first application of current when installed on this bike. Also in common: the hose was kinked between the RH injector and the pressure regulator when I first applied current. Do you think the pumps just happened to fail in the same way from sitting (seems unlikely)... or did I somehow break them both? Is a kinked hose enough to blow out a fuel pump?

Well, I certainly think so. I replaced all the hoses, clamps, and filter on my Scura with no problems. I think I did everything the same here. The leak occurs only with key on. I'm about to go take off the tank and airbox and do a thorough point-to-point inspection and test.

Bummer. Good idea to yourself checked if you're hurting. That's a pisser that the scratch goes through the V11 decal on the tail. This could provide a good excuse to splurge on some aftermarket levers (I like the Pazzos) and bar-end mirrors (I like the Napoleons).

Sounds like a clue, Dr. Watson.. Thanks Sherlock. The fuel pump still leaked after I re-routed the hose to avoid the kink - but I have not removed it to see if there is fuel. I'm sure that a slow, methodical examination will reveal either my error or a faulty part.

Yeah, she's looking all streetfighter and ready to ride. I was just gonna pop the seat on and ride it around the block if it started. Too bad the champagne paint doesn't look that good up close - it shows 50,000 miles of "love." Here's a video I took yesterday while I was trying to figure it out the fuel leak. But it's hard to see what's going on under the tank. http://vid1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/timscudder/Champagne%20LeMans/IMG_6107.mp4 As you can see, it's a gusher, not a little leak, so I don't think foot powder is going to help. The original pump did the same thing. It seems unlikely that both pumps would have the same failure - since they both worked a few years ago and have been just sitting idle. I suppose that I can start pulling things off to test for blockage. But having seen these leaks, I'm not feeling very confident about riding it. I replaced all hoses between the pump, filter, injectors and regulator with high-pressure fuel-injection hose. I used new clamps - the nice clamping type, not the worm-drive type. And as I mentioned on the last page, I used a Wix fuel filter and I verified that the arrow printed on the filter is in the direction of fuel flow. I did not do anything to the fuel tank - but obviously the petcock works - and I replaced the hose from petcock to pump with standard (not high pressure) fuel hose. I did find a kink in the hose before the pressure regulator. This was a surprise, because I used all the old hoses to mark the cuts for the new ones. I cut about 3 inches off this hose and it now connects without a kink. There was no fuel in this hose.

Well... tonight was supposed to be the "It runs" celebration. But It's got a fuel leak and I am puzzled. Glad I pushed it outside for this test - and had hose (and fire extinguishers) at the ready. As a reminder, I installed a new Wix fuel filter and all new fuel lines and clamps a few months back. Here's the sequence of events: Installed tank, turned on key, smelled gas. Inspection shows gas on top of engine. Turn on key again while watching - gas seems to be coming out of the top of the fuel pump. (rinse with water). Decide that old fuel pump may be bad - install fuel pump from parts bike. While I was there, I verified that the arrow on the fuel filter is pointing in the direction of fuel flow. Also tightened up all hose clamps (firm with nut-driver, but not using leverage of a small ratchet). Turn key on again - gas seems to again be coming from the top of the pump. (again rinse with water) Discovered kink in fuel line right before pressure regulator. Cut hose a little shorter to get better curve and reinstall. Turn on key - same leak from pump. So... I am confused. First I figured something went bad inside the original pump. But I am surprised to see the replacement pump leak at the same spot. So... It'll come apart again tomorrow. Any ideas what I should be looking for? Can I test the pump off the bike? Can a pump break an internal seal if a fuel line is kinked?

Doesn't the same key work on your Guzzi? Mine does. I wasn't clear, sorry. Yes the same key works everything on the Guzzi. But the Guzzi has two locks - one for seat and one for helmet. My BMW has a single lock that works the helmet lock and unlocks the seat - which is probably what nwrider was used to.

Yeah - some people use helmet locks. I always take my helmet with me. And the seat lock tab makes a good mounting point for a remote shock preload adjuster. My K75s helmet lock and seat lock are both operated by the same key - so it gets to stay on the bike.

What's wrong with the helmet lock? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Too shiny.

I had that problem on my LeMans. I installed an oil pressure gauge and found that the pressure was on the low-end - but that there was always pressure, and therefore there was oil flow. It took me a while to find the problem, but it turned out to be a missing section of gasket around an internal oil journal - aka, an internal, pressure robbing leak. Replacing the gasket brought the pressure right back up to expected levels. I don't know the Stelvio's layout, but low pressure on the V11s occurs with UFI filters that have crappy O-rings - or filters that work their way loose. If you had the dealer do the oil change - and the problem started shortly thereafter, I would insist that they remove and inspect the filter before paying for an oil-pump inspection.

I've been enjoying your affliction: http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=88189.0

Now you can remove the helmet lock - without messing up the seat lock.

I suppose you could define competition in terms of what was available at the time. But you could also look at it as what's available now for similar prices. When I bought my Ducati Sport Classic I also looked at the Triumph Thruxton. I damn near bought a new Paul Smart version, but decided I liked the red better (what was I thinking?) Sadly, at that time I was not thinking about Moto Guzzi. When I got my Scura it felt like what I wished the Ducati had been. Gave up a little handling for all-day comfort. As for other V11 competitors I think the 1000cc and bigger Ducati Monsters should be considered. I really like the simple Ducati 1000DS motor. For a more complex engine we could consider the Aprilia Tuono. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk