Scud

I agree with checking/replacing relays as a first step to address the stalling issue. A problem will often have multiple small factors that contribute to it. One thing that hasn't been mentioned for Owen's problem is the rear brake. Do you use the rear brake when you downshift? Have you cleaned the rear caliper or flushed the fluid recently? If you are applying pressure to a sticky rear brake while downshifting and losing engine power it could contribute to a temporary wheel lock. And how about the rear wheel bearings? Are they in good condition?

Throwout bearing is cheap - it's just that little roller bearing in my picture. You can get at it when the clutch slave is out. New clutch... well... is it slipping? If not, why replace it?

Those and the D-type jags are so awesome. Nice little rip around Mulholland Drive and Pacific Coast Highway too. Which Guzzi is in the garage? It's next to a Ducati PS1000LE, and an adventure bike.

Most motorcycle dealers are closed Sunday and Monday here. Tomorrow is Valentines Day. Go get your sweetie something special at the Ducati dealer. Oh... and maybe get something for you wife too.

Fabulous Chuck. FWIW - I bought 2 liters of that oil. Then when I decided to have a shop do the work I gave them all my supplies. They returned my 2nd liter with about 900ml remaining. That's why I had a bottle handy to take a picture for you earlier.

The top one is this photo is the one I mentioned - it sat idle for a few years too. You can see the rust on the piston and small chrome part it touches. The bottom one was salvaged from my parts bike - and I plan to use that one. I can probably pop the pistons out of both on Wednesday evening - and we'll see if something can work for you. You gonna put in a new throwout bearing while you're there?

This is essentially my point as well. The major wheel alignment is done be the frame and how all the big pieces bolt up. By the time you install the swingarm, there is only a small amount of free play between the porkchops - not nearly enough to alter alignment. IMO, the process of measuring how far the pivot pins stick out of the porkchops is an unnecessary step that produces no perceptible benefit, but also does no harm (unless it was poorly installed at first, then the measurements would replicate the original error).

Andy - I have the one my champagne project available. It had 50,000 miles, but the piston surface got corroded. I haven't disassembled it, but maybe the seals are still good. I'll be home Wednesday and can take a look if you haven't found new seals by then. If I recall correctly, Dangerous had to replace those seals - you might search his threads.

It does look like a puzzle. Since you're so far in, you could remove the engine and transmission and give everything a good inspection. That looks like a lot of old oil behind the right cylinder. If it's leaking out of the base gaskets, you might need to re-torque the cylinder heads. It's least likely to be something major like a rear main seal. And more likely to be something simple that you will discover as you go through it. On the swingarm alignment... we were just discussing that on another thread. I have offered a contrarian opinion. All the same, you may as well measure it before you take it out. You're so far in that you should at least inspect the swingarm bearings - and replace if needed. And pop the driveshaft off and give it thorough clean and lube. You'll just have to ride the BMW for a while...

That one's "the bomb."

A friend of mine told me about him, so I started listening on YouTube. When I noticed that he had a new album coming out, I pre-ordered it. He has such a fabulous, powerful voice. A baritone, I think, maybe a tenor. Have another:

Try browsing through the gallery. I don't think there have been many repaints. I was just thinking that the Tenni fairing would probably look good on the silver bike. Maybe no re-paint needed. Break out the tools and let's see how she looks.

An alternative TPS would make a good entry for our burgeoning encyclopedia of compatible parts - by somebody who has actually done it.

I have no insider information... but I did happen across this picture... The only things that appear to be missing are: turn signals, license plate, me.

Have you ever considered one of those zip-up motorcycle storage bags?

It's hard to say for sure from pictures, but you certainly should replace the hose. The hose can be dry on the outside and still cause a problem inside the bell-housing, here's how. Any oil that get between the metal pipe and the rubber hose will go into the bell housing. So if the hose clamp is loose, or there are small internal cracks in the hose, oil can flow outside the tube instead of inside it. When it goes inside (like it's supposed to) it is returned to the sump. When it goes outside the tube (but inside the hose), it will go into the bell housing. If you have not yet cleaned the engine, you could run a cotton swab between the metal tube and the case - go all around the outside of the tube inside the case. If it comes back oily, you know the hose was problem. If it comes back dry - that might be inconclusive if it's been sitting for a while.

The Husky is fun on the street. I whipped through about 30 miles of asphalt including a fun little canyon before draining the oil and swapping tires. I run serious off-road tires that wear quickly on asphalt, so I do stay away from the asphalt when the knobbies are fresh and sharp - but almost every dirt ride includes a little asphalt. I did a good hour on asphalt on the ride back from Grand Canyon that started this thread. Short freeway runs are fine - but depends on gearing. My 510 Husky would do over 100MPH, but then I geared it down so I wouldn't have to slip the clutch so much in technical terrain. Just say no to the KLR 250. You will wring it's spindly little neck and not be happy. A Suzuki DRZ 400 or Honda XR 400 (if you can find one with a license plate) would be a better start. Those are powerful enough to spend a little time on the street and still be competent dirt bikes that are light enough to pick up. There's always the Guzzi Quota to consider... that'll munch miles and would probably do fine on dirt roads and easy trails.

I feel similarly. I'm trusting my life to my own work. So I want it done correctly. Centered is the goal, right? I just lack a good way to measure the clearance between the swingarm and the inside of the porkchop. But I bet I get it very close to center by feel. I've seen posts where people measure how much the pin sticks out of the porckhop and try to replicate that on assembly. But that just puts it back how it was - and does not guarantee that the pins are snug against the bearing's inner races, nor does it pay attention to alignment. If was off center to start, it will be off-center again.

Well, it looks like we answered BBoles' question, so let's talk swingarm alignment. I'm all for doing it right, and willing to learn if I've missed something... and I just happen to have one off the bike that I can play with. I just put the swingarm between the porkchops. With fingers instead of pivot pins, it has a small amount of lateral play. I estimate this as 2 to 3 mm (I had a ruler out to look at, but no third hand to take the measurement.) The pivot pin has to go through the porkchops until the lip at the base of the threads contacts the inner race of the swingarm bearing. Therefore when both pins are in, the swingarm is held in place laterally by the pressure of the 2 pins - and those pins are secured by the big chrome nuts outside the porkchops. I don't think the pivot pins have a recommended torque setting. What I have done is to position the swingarm on pins, then put a hex-wrench in each pin - and turn them both until it rests about in the middle - with approximately equal clearance on each side. Then tighten them and lock them down with the big chrome nuts. Then attach the shock. Let's take my (I think generous) 3mm estimate of total lateral clearance. If the swingarm was exactly centered, that would leave 1.5mm on each side. But even if it was 1mm on one side and 2mm on the other - are we saying that 0.5mm one way or the other makes a practical difference? Again - not to trying to be argumentative. If I am wrong, please explain.

The real risk - if you accidentally step on the "down" lever. Stuff starts moving in an unexpected hurry. Voice of experience. Stop rod = smart = safe.

My Venezuelan brother from another mother... So... wow. The whole upper rear subframe and wiring harness are off. You're not just chasing a leak, are you? It's not much more work to pull the motor, then you can clean up the inside of the bell housing. I can't tell exactly how you are supporting the bike, but you might need a new way to hold up the rear end if you want to remove the transmission. How is the condition of the breather hose from the frame under the steering head to the top rear of the engine case? To Chuck's comment about being overly worried - I would certainly try to follow the flow of oil before pulling the engine and transmission. It's possible that the whole mess is due to a cracked breather hose.

Since this thread turned into a little bit of a "how to get started with a dual-sport" I thought I throw in a little more. The Husky is getting ready for a long President's Day weekend in Flagstaff. It could be snowy, rainy, and muddy and I've got brand new knobbies. If you're serious about getting into this, many dirt bikers (self included) do the majority of home maintenance with only the tools they carry. Today I proved I could change a rear tire with only two tire irons - because I got a Motion-Pro "trail bead buddy." It locks the bead - I was previously holding a third iron with my foot to lock the bead. So I'm stoked and my tool bag will weigh a precious few ounces less. And in the spirit of "enjoying life while you can..." Dual sport riding is a blast. If you're even thinking that you might like to try it - DO. Thump thump thump...

My new release "Human" by Rag 'N' Bone Man arrived yesterday. It's been looping all day... And here's a track I really like... Be the Man. Listen to the words.

Bell Housing. I agree with Marty that oil there is almost certainly due to the breather hose - cracks or the hose clamp is not tight. Once you replace the hose, the remaining oil in there will take a little while to exit, then the leak should stop. Final drive. I would just clean, lube, change the oil, and reassamble. If the problem shows up again, it's easy enough to remove the final drive. Transmissions... not so easy. Transmission. That's a tough one. Some special tools are needed to get the transmission apart. I did this recently in the thread about my Scura. If the breather hose is making a mess, it's possible that turbulence will deposit engine oil elsewhere (like on top of the transmission). The advice to smell the oils is good. If it's stinky gear oil on top, then you may have a problem. How far apart is the bike now?

Oh, sorry to hear that. You started off like a man on a mission... Rest up and don't push yourself. My Scura's steering bearings had very little grease, but I got to them in time. Maybe yours were already done. Joe's (now my) Champagne LeMans' bearings were shot and needed replacing - they were nearly dry. Lubing the bearings is easy (much easier than replacing), but getting to them... well that does a bit of work. And you are already so close. Maybe we need a Fork-off Maintenance Checklist - like Docc's tank-off and wheels-off lists. I like the sound of that... Hey! Fork-Off.