Scud

I'm cleaning up after powdercoating and putting sub-assemblies together. Chasing threads, removing overspray, etc. The candy-apple is taking a little more work than the flat black. It's a two-coat process, first a silver flake, then a translucent red. So the masking can loosen in the oven - letting more of the second coat into undesirable places, such as the ultra-fine threads for the swingarm pivot bolts. Here are some post-powder clean-up tips that I've learned: Use a dremel with wire wheels to remove excess around or in threads that you can get to (like the swingarm arm pivot holes on the porkchops). For small holes, put a little aircraft stripper on the tip of a bolt and work it until the powder disssolves and the threads catch. Or run a q-tip with stripper on it into the hole and let it soak a bit. Clean up threads from the back side whenever possible - and let the bolt push through the clean side - especially important if using stripper so you don't mess up the side that shows. Sandpaper, files, etc to remove various lips or edges from the masking. .....and in boring (but useful) news.... here's what you need to re-glue the vibration dampers. All three had come loose.

You're perceptive. The downside of project like this is that I get attached... but I don't think she can stay. And I was not planning on filling in the letters. The candy-apple is pretty bold on it's own - especially in direct sunlight.

Wait till you see the porkchops and alternator cover... I'm just a tease now...

Picked up my powdercoating today - and just had to see how the covers look by the tank... Champagne and Candy-apple Red.

This evening I got the steering bearings installed. I "got a set" from All Balls. I do like their edgy slogan. Appropriate use of heat and cold sure make it easier. I froze the steering stem and heated the inner race of the lower bearing with a torch - the bearing dropped right in by gravity - no pounding needed. And I froze the outer races and heated the steering head - but those still took a little pounding.

Well, having lost a few days of shop-talk from this thread, let me try to recap the posts that went missing. I was disturbed by a groove in the bore for the clutch push-rod. I got some good advice and offers to help and Chuck posted a cool video of his shop and airplanes and Guzzis. We all now wish Chuck was our neighbor. We talked about throwout bearings and all the parts that go between the slave cylinder and the pressure plate. And I managed to get the bore honed at a local machine shop. And the inside of the tranny is looking pretty clean after a bath in diesel fuel.

OEM Part Name: Front Brake Caliper Pins Moto Guzzi Part Number: couldn't find a part number Replacement Part Brand or Source: Pro-Bolt Part number: TIPINBP012-4 Differences from OEM: These are titanium, and the manufacturer claims they last longer than the original Brembo pins. Other Comments: At first glance I thought they were thinner than the Brembo part, but they measured exactly the same diameter (digital caliper). They look thinner in the picture too, but that is an optical illusion... They are available in different colors, the supplied part number is for a 4-pack.

OEM Part Name: Steering Bearings Moto Guzzi Part Number: 92249225 Replacement Part Brand or Source: All Balls Part number: 22-1044 Differences from OEM: The supplied dust seal is not compatible - it looks like it is supposed to fit inside a bore, not cover the top, like the MG dust seal. Other Comments: These come as a set of 2 bearings, with races.

Bummer about losing the original thread - but looking forward to seeing these on your bike. Having recently installed a new set on my LeMans, here are a couple things I remember: Don't install the springs between the pipes and cans until you get everything lined up where you want it. I learned this the hard way. The motorcycle is not exactly symmetrical - and it is very difficult to get the pipes to terminate symmetrically in the back - but you can get pretty close. As for the ECU - why not just pop it in with the pipes and see how she runs?

Thanks guys. Some answers: It's a little colder than normal - just had an Orca sighting off Carlsbad (they rarely come this far South). Garage is about 55F (13C) - it's been raining all day, on and off last 2 weeks actually, we're having historic snowfall in the mountains and we may be coming out of drought conditions here in California. The Pacific Ocean is kicking our asses right now. Big swell coming... maybe up to 12 foot sets. Took the kids to the beach this afternoon. High wind advisory. The transmission had to be drained at ambient temperature, because the tranny was out of the bike, which has not run for several years. I do have access to compressed air, but I have visions of Gallagher smashing a watermelon with a sledgehammer.... and I was thinking diesel fuel too. I prefer not to work with stuff that can catch on fire or explode. Sometimes diesel is even cheaper than gas. I got all the big sludge out with spoon, towels, and Super Clean. Everything turns well and the shift arms slide freely. I think I will run a little diesel fuel through it next week, and then one more flush with gear oil so it can sit till I'm ready to seal it up again. Gonna get the pushrod and throwout bearing out too (but slave cylinder bolts are not turning yet). I really appreciate the help/advice. I've heard stories about sludge-piles like this, but I've never seen it before and had no idea what to do. Squeamish alert.... And in better news... the 12,000 mile engine from my crashed parts bike is super-clean inside. I got the valve clearances set, new plugs, and I think I will pull the clutch discs out again and do the graphite treatment, along with the spline.

I spooned out the blood-pudding. Also disassembled and degreased the pre-selector. But I could use a little more handholding.... I assume I should not be flushing with water (even if I use a water-soluble cleaner). I have some of that purple-stuff, the Super Clean. So do I just wipe the worst of the sludge out, spray it with solvent, turn the gears, and just wipe what I can reach? Then I refill with proper gear oil and go? Sorry if this is too basic, but getting inside a transmission is still pretty new to me.

And if don't have a good way to dispose of gasoline... what other solvent would you recommend? So glad I found it now. I would have otherwise just assumed it was empty, then put fresh oil on top of that mess. And is this clutch hub OK for a while longer? I put used clutch internals back in. I know I've seen pictures of worse looking hubs, but I'd like the bike to be in good condition for the future owner. Run or replace?

+1 Get yourself a nice pair of ring pliers. I recently got a Craftsman tool that comes with a bunch of different tips. So easy with the right tool. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-retaining-ring-pliers-internal-external/p-00947412000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6 Also - those half-moon aluminum holders go in way easier if you pull the fuel lines back a little - then snug them up after the injector is in place. And hey - why not just throw in some new high-pressure fuel-injection hoses while you're in there? This would be the time to do it.

Now I need some help/advice... I thought I'd do the "Lucky Phil" shift improvement and replace all the springs in the pre-selector. Drained the oil... nothing came out... Joe must have drained it already... no worries. Opened it up and... Warning to the squeamish... What is the appropriate response to this?

Yes to most of the above, even though the pins are worn (threads seemed clean enough to me). Plus new copper crush washers at banjo bolts. Brembo replacement pins are surprisingly expensive. I found an aftermarket set of titanium pins: https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Brake-Caliper-Brembo-Pack/dp/B00APO1V5Y/ref=pd_rhf_ee_p_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZHF6JHDDY3SF2GZB2Y7Y I might put these on the Scura and let the project benefit from "trickle-down-economics."

Funny interpretation Docc. That's a woodworking bench and it does sort of look like a cutting board in that picture. And that's Joe's old flannel shirt. He wrapped a bunch of parts in clothes before he shipped the project to me. I'm doing this project in the "small" garage. My house has a 3-car garage - split into a 2-car (but truly a 1-car with bicycles and surfboards) and a 1-car (aka 4-motorcycle). The Scura project recently hogged the 2-car for months - and she had to park outside. She recently discovered my stash of clean plastic parts in my daughter's room (she is away at college and we keep her room closed while she's gone.) I was at work during the "discovery" and I received a text with the word "hoarder" in it. Don't know why... ...but as long as she can park in the garage the "problem" is not out of control. More rain today... a lot more rain... so I am just trying to get everything clean, organized, adjusted, lubed, etc. so assembly will go quick when I get all the goodies back from the powdercoater. Steering bearings were an unpleasant surprise. I confess to trying my new ultrasonic cleaner in the kitchen while she was away (you can see the kitchen counter under the paper towel). Swore my youngest daughter to secrecy in the name of "scientific experimentation." Here are some front brake caliper parts before and after 10 minutes of ultrasound with nothing but tap water in the tub. Then I cleaned her wedding ring in it... ultrasonic...

Got a little more play-time today. Some highlights: Painted the final drive and reaction rod. Tried cleaning and greasing the steering bearings, but they were too far gone - so I finally had to get a real hammer and punch out the races... bearings on order. And I had previously powdercoated a spare fuel door - so took the opportunity to install that.

I got the standard clutch alignment tool from MG Cycle. They also sell a starter-ring holder. Neither are the official Moto Guzzi tools, but they work well - and I think there was quite a savings compared to the factory tools.

I think the splines for the clutch to transmission hub are the same for the 5 and 6 speed. The clutch is sort of agnostic with regards to what transmission is behind it. The difference, as I understand it (and I have never been into a 5-speed), is only in how the clutch gear attaches to the primary (input) shafts of the transmissions. If the 5 and 6 speed transmissions have different primary shafts, they need different hubs that mate to the same type of splines in the clutches.

That's the one. Theoretically, that, plus a 5-speed RAM kit, gets you a 6-speed RAM kit. I'm not sure how to advise you there. I think the 6 speed was unique to the V11 series. You should check out some online parts diagrams or scroll through MG Cycles' pictures of all clutch parts available - they show a flywheel that fits V11s and some of the newer CARC bikes (Griso/Norge). Try WildGuzzi too - there are lots of guys who know the full Guzzi line over there.

Those are the most obvious wear parts and would be a "basic" clutch replacement (but intermediate plates are cheap and worth tossing in at the same time). However, the following parts also wear: flywheel teeth, Transmission input gear teeth, pressure plate, intermediate plate, and starter ring (there is a friction surface on it). If you have to replace everything it's much more expensive than the RAM unit - and the RAM steel flywheel will "never" wear out (exploding aluminum ones excluded).

I think you could install the 5 speed RAM kit, but you would need to also find a transmission input gear that was removed from a Scura or Tenni. I imagine some of those are available from Scura owners who went to twin-plate. Speculation... and mystery.. and... Only one way to know for sure:

Haha - welcome to the agony and joys of Scura ownership. Totally worth it.

Exercise for sure. I can tell the difference on a long ride - if I've been active I can stay in the saddle longer. Last weekend I was in "Happy Scura Pose" for about 8 hours. Keeping your knees warm is a big help too. I got some Freeze-Out knee warmers for cheap at Cycle Gear. They are comfortable and offer an extra layer of wind protection.

Thanks. I've used the Staburags on the Guzzi driveshaft splines - I think that's the ideal application. If I don't feel like buying MIL-spec sprays, I assume any dry moly spray, like CRC's would do. Do you spray all four surfaces: flywheel, transmission gear, clutch disc inner teeth, and clutch disc outer teeth? (obviously masking the friction plates).