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Problem with Gear Box


JBastida

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I place here the answer to your mesage, Zooter:

 

Hi guys!

 

I didn't forget to inform you about the fix lasting. But I had a child two years ago, so I hardly ride my bike nowadays :(

 

The fix work out well so far. My bike has only 37.500 km today. It means 1.500 km left to 39.000 km, when it was supposed the pring would broke again. (it broke first time at 13.000 km, and second time at 26.000 km)

 

Best Regards

Thanks, JBastidsa, now get out there and hit that benchmark... Your mechanic's solution seems ingenious :)

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  • 8 months later...

As asked by Zooter, I post here my answer to his questions.

 

 

veaxw4.jpg

Already done!
I've paid a visit to the mechanic.
Concerning your questions these are the answers:
He drilled a hole in clutch cover. Put a screw on it (number 1), sealed it with some product and put the first nut (number 2).
After that, he put another nut (number 3), the end of the spring (number 4), and another nut (number 5).
Pawl arm was not modified. As I told you, spring end is simply hooked in pawl arm (number 7). Spring is always in tension. Notice that there are some irregularities in spring (number 6). This is the way the mechanic adjusted the proper length and strength of the spring.
He didn’t use any loctitte. He just used a product to seal the hole properly.

I hope this wil be helpfull
Best regards, and good luck

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Thanks man. Can anyone tell by looking if this is genius or a potential failure generator of its own? I am leaning towards genius but you never know what you don't know.

 

Where the hole goes through is meaty enough it's not going to fracture the casting? Would it be necessary to mill a flat spot on the exterior?

 

I don't know much about springs. Presumably the quality of springs varies as much as screws and bolts. What's a likely industry to source the good stuff?

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Looks good to me. w/o holding it and looking at the cover to see how it is drilled and the capscrew going through the cover I would have to give it an A instead of A+ .Yes it would be a good idea to mill a flat ( provided there is enough material ) surface for the capscrew to mate against.

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  • 1 month later...

Zooter, this is as it looks like from outside.
I'm sorry photographs are not very good quality.
I could realize that mechanic didn’t mill a flat. Clutch cover outside looks very flat at this point.
I also realized he put a washer.

Best regards!

 

21bj914.jpg213oeba.jpg

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This topic always makes me nervous, being the owner of a 2002 Lemans. The pawl spring failed at 5000 miles and again at I believe 24000. I now have 34,000 miles. My question is this (and I fear the answer): did the mechanics that fixed it just change the spring and leave the parts that are the wrong size, making it a guarantee that it will fail again, soon?

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Just my singular experience, but I put a complete replacement gearbox ( perhaps 2002 manufacture) in my early Sport December 2003 and had a spring failure 27,000 miles later. Replaced with Moto Guzzi part and still good almost 44,000 miles on.

 

So, not guaranteed to keep breaking. That said, checking the diameter of the pawl arm, and slimming it down if necessary, is not a horrible job. :luigi:

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Slightly off topic, the spring in my 72 Eldorado snapped as I was shimming the gearbox, it's massive compared to the wimpy V11 one.

 

A friend suggested we should start hanging the broken springs on our keychain as proof of passage.

 

There are 2 springs in the V11, is it always the one on the pawl lever that breaks?

What about the one around the shifter shaft (barely seen in the pictures)?

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Right, it's apparently only the "pawl" spring that might break.

 

If you're used to a '72 Eldo box, think of that as "sensible shoes" and the V11 gearbox as something more daring . . .

 

Slinky, maybe, but not 'wimpy . . .'

 

more of a cocktail dress than a parka . . . :grin:

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This topic always makes me nervous, being the owner of a 2002 Lemans. The pawl spring failed at 5000 miles and again at I believe 24000. I now have 34,000 miles. My question is this (and I fear the answer): did the mechanics that fixed it just change the spring and leave the parts that are the wrong size, making it a guarantee that it will fail again, soon?

Open up the gearbox yourself and check it. If the boss is too big and/or the spring too small you can feel it when you compress the pawl spring, it binds up right away on the boss. It is immediately clear why it can break.

 

I ordered the latest larger spring and ground down the boss in my gearbox until the spring compressed cleanly through the entire range of motion with no binding.

 

This doesn't mean mine won't break, but I don't worry anymore, knowing how it works and having modified it to address the issue as best I can.

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