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Air filter alternatives


docc

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With sales tax and special order (freight and wait), the local auto parts store price is $67 US/ 2013. Just placed online order for the K&N CG-9002 for $42.75.

 

I'm not confident in this "million mile" durability. My 10 year old 33-2682 appears to have some weak spots in the foam. I'm hoping the better fitting CG-9002 will hold up better since it's not being crushed 1/8" (3+ mm) every time it gets pushed into the box.

 

For our purposes, it is notable that the K&N application chart does not list the V11 series specifically for the CG-9002.

 

Yes, the CG-9002 is the one I bought from Harper Moto, also is sold by MG Cycle. MG Cycle lists it for the v11 Sport, oddly Harper Moto doesn't.

 

 

http://www.harpermoto.com/k-and-n-air-filter-en-2.html

 

http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1589&osCsid=1e33efadc48680628b8beeea873b8811

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've been emailing with Bruno at Ghezzi-Brian about their exhaust systems for the v11, and during our conversation, he recommended switching to pod air filters:

 

"the K&N air filter is a good solution but the original airbox is too small, with two high efficiency filters you can get a better result"

 

Just food for thought. I think this is a controversial subject, not trying to start a flame war; I'm going to stick with my stock airbox and k&n filter for now, but dumping the air box is very tempting...

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While the stock airbox is a bit small, the volume between the filter and the throttle bodies is substantially more than the volume between the pod filters and the throttle bodies. The filter area of the pods combined is likely close to the same amount as the area of the K&N that fits the stock airbox.

You are free to do as you please. But the stock airbox, while not as good on the V11 as on later Guzzi's, is not bad. It will SOUND faster with pods.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Any update on the CG-9002,is it a better fit?

 

Also, I am a noob and almost feel silly asking this but I can't find the answer anywhere.  Do I have to remove the tank to get to the filter?  I have read about tank removal but that seems like quite a bit to do to get to air the filter.  Any tips?

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Any update on the CG-9002,is it a better fit?

 

Also, I am a noob and almost feel silly asking this but I can't find the answer anywhere.  Do I have to remove the tank to get to the filter?  I have read about tank removal but that seems like quite a bit to do to get to air the filter.  Any tips?

Since I just serviced my air filter, I'll not likely install the CG-9002 until next year. Just seeing it, though, and having studied the dimensions, it will certainly be a better fit and won't get the slight 'crumple' of the other filter.

 

True what gstallons says about the tank - you'll have it off more than once. It's not a horrible job, but is fiddly enough that air filters might not get serviced as they should. Too many times I've put mine back on and realized, "Aw, I forget to take care of the  _____________ while the tank was off.  Which is the reason for the  Tank Off Maintenance Checklist in FAQ: trying to make the most of the effort!

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The small hoses under the tank , you can use a vacuum tee to connect the two together to simplify reinstallation. One is a fuel drain if you overfill and the other is (probably) a tank vent.

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Thanks Docc, so you do have to take the tank totally off to get to the air filter?

 

I don't think I could tip mine up enough without disconnecting the fuel delivery system.

 

Once it's lifted to that point, might as well take it off - all that you would be lacking is a good place to set it.

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The tank comes OFF . You don't want to try holding it up while you work on the filter. The fuel tank shut-off might be hard to turn , so use 6' Channelock pliers to loosen the shutoff knob .

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The K&N CG-9002 filter drops right in and fits very snugly and happily in the air box.

 

Removing the tank is the easy part. It's getting it back on that can be a bit of a pain. Once you do it a couple times though it's no longer a big deal. Just keep an empty bottle handy for when you disconnect the fuel lines from the petcock and the vacuum pressure valve as you will get peed on a little. And have a couple pieces of two by four handy to rest the tank on so that it is not sitting on the above mentioned petcock and vacuum valve when you put it down. The two electrical connectors are super easy to disconnect/reconnect.

 

Really not as scary as it sounds, and you'll have to learn how eventually if you plan on servicing the bike, doing electrical work, etc.

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Ive been messing with it and mine has the external fuel pump so it looks like all I have to do is:

  • Remove the seat and tank bolt
  • Turns off the shut off, it spins easily so no 6' channel locks are necessarry...
  • Remove the fuel lines from both sides
  • Remove the electrical connection that I assume is the low fuel light?  Does that unscrew?

I was able to lift the tank a bit and I think there is a K&N already there.  When I bought the bike someone had spent some $ coating the pipes black, adding slip ons, custom painting the tank and adding a power commander so the K&N would not be a stretch.  

 

Im going to have to attack this sooner than later.  I purchased an HID kit from DDM and the harness will run under the tank.  Mighty nice of them to tell you that they don't actually have a specific motorcycle harness, they just supply you one for a car and you just don't use one side.  On top of that ill have to cut the harness apart to make it work since the leads are not long enough to do a damn thing with.  

 

Enough of the soap box, now back to the regular thread.   

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I thought this was the Regularly Scheduled Program . . . B)

 

The connecter for the fuel level sensor unplugs, but does not unscrew.  There are two small lines that attach to two nipples under the tank for vent and overflow. If they have no lines on them, consider routing them to a "Y" and a line out under the bike behind the engine as gstallons had posted.

 

Your petcock has been converted from an electrical to a manual (a good thing), but the knob can be hard to get completely closed by hand. I'm not sayin' you'll need six foot ChannelLocks, but I know a guy that has 'em if you need 'em . . . :whistle:

 

If you can see the K&N just by lifting the tank, your air box lid has been modified. There are several ways to do that, but intake from the top of the box makes it more important that none of the heat shielding on the underside of the tank is loose and can block air flow.

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