czakky Posted March 3, 2016 Share Posted March 3, 2016 Another thing to check is the wires going into the stator. Right under the stator cover. Some gave had issues with those wires getting brittle and losing a connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antiquar Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 Thanks czakky. I checked the stator wires, they looked good to my electrically-untrained eye. I hit them with some contact cleaner just to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 Thanks czakky. I checked the stator wires, they looked good to my electrically-untrained eye. I hit them with some contact cleaner just to be safe. I had battery charging problems, and since the Motobat battery had 2012 written on it, I thought it was toast. I bought a Shorai LFX21L6-BS12 to replace it. Then I had the brainwave that I should take advice from this forum before I fitted the new battery, and check the charging circuit. I found a melted 30 amp fuse, and burned connectors on the yellow wire pair between the alternator & regulator. I grounded the regulator as well. Now the old Motobat cranks too well to throw out, and the new Shorai is sitting on the shelf. Sigh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 I've never seen a fuse do that.. scary. thanks for the pics! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 I've never seen a fuse do that.. scary. thanks for the pics! Or this: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=12326&p=148983 Almost no contact from the factory fuse connectors: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antiquar Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 I received my EDLGUZ-VoltRect unit from EME yesterday and installed it this morning. I strung 10 gauge wire from the battery to the regulator/rectifier area and spliced together all the pertinent wires. I now reach 14.5V around 2k RPM. That is quite a difference. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 These things need a 30a Maxi fuse / holder on this circuit . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antiquar Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 There is an ATO fuse but replacing it with a MAXI fuse is next on the list. Those burned fuse photos are pretty terrifying. I'm just excited to see some good charging numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 I received my EDLGUZ-VoltRect unit from EME yesterday and installed it this morning. I strung 10 gauge wire from the battery to the regulator/rectifier area and spliced together all the pertinent wires. I now reach 14.5V around 2k RPM. That is quite a difference. You wouldn't want to see any more than 14.5 volts if you are running and AGM battery or you will cook it. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 I received my EDLGUZ-VoltRect unit from EME yesterday and installed it this morning. I strung 10 gauge wire from the battery to the regulator/rectifier area and spliced together all the pertinent wires. I now reach 14.5V around 2k RPM. That is quite a difference. You wouldn't want to see any more than 14.5 volts if you are running and AGM battery or you will cook it. Cia. Agreed, that is generally true, but is temperature dependent. An AGM chart I use for reference shows the following charge voltages (float voltages differ): 32ºF 50ºF 68ºF 77ºF 86ºF 104ºF (0ºC) (10ºC) (20ºC) (25ºC) (30ºC) (40ºC) 15.30v 15.06v 14.82v 14.70v 14.58v 14.34v I've read elsewhere in the Odyssey literature that the charge range is 14.2 - 14.7 v and not to exceed 15 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 The melting fuse is a common occurrence. I suspect caused by the regulator setup, it puts out pulses of current well in excess of 30 Amps. The regulator ground is so important because the charging current has to pass back from the chassis to the regulator case in order to complete the circuit back to the alternator, there's too much Voltage drop in the little wire Luigi ran back to the battery. Lately I have been advocating a strip of Aluminum sheet metal instead of copper wire that way it's the same material all the way from regulator case to engine. Sent from my shoe phone! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 17, 2016 Share Posted March 17, 2016 Lately I have been advocating a strip of Aluminum sheet metal instead of copper wire that way it's the same material all the way from regulator case to engine. What's the aim, there, Roy? Trying to avoid the bimetal corrosion at connections? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antiquar Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 I finally did my TPS calibration and TB sync today. It all went pretty smoothly. The TPS was set at 250mV when closed. I bumped it down to ~150mV. The TBs were pretty well synced already, but I fine tuned them. I also increased the idle as it was a bit low (though I already miss that tractor thumping at idle). I took it for a quick ride after tuning and you can really tell a difference. It wasn't night and day but the bike is noticeably sharper. One problem I encounter was that the PO had plugged the vacuum ports in the intake manifolds with bolts, and evidently had overtightened them--the threads in the manifolds were not in good shape. That said, I was able to install my motionpro vacuum ports and reinstall the plugs afterward very tenderly. Next time I'm up for a TB sync I may replace the intake manifolds to be on the safe side, though I suspect a helicoil would suffice for the application as well. Next up: get the correct OBD2 cable and adapter to adjust fuel trim and play with ECU. Buy a grease gun to lube up the drive shaft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Well done, man! You've really got this coming together! I had to heli-coil one of my intake taps after (over)using the (ungood) bolt method. But, with simple brass vacuum taps in place, and rubber capped, they are easy to access for the periodic balancing act. I carry some extra rubber caps just in case one gets split or spit off. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBBenson Posted March 22, 2016 Share Posted March 22, 2016 Or connect the two vacuum ports with a short length of rubber hose for even more balancing goodness... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now