V11 Sport with strange metallic rattle

[MartyNZ]

Some experts posted their experience here:

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19660

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19814

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19792

There is likely to be more good tips you could find if you use the search function Jaap built at the top of the page.

[Tinus89]

I had read all those topics, but it is not really clear to me whether I do or do not require special tools to remove that rear cover?

Did use the search engine, but mainly for "output shaft seal" or similars, not for "gearbox leak"

[Scud]

The rear cover with the output shaft seal can be removed without special tools. There are two different size bolts (which have different torque specs). One of the large bolts fastens the battery ground cable (so you could install that with the tranny and just snake it back up to the battery). The cover will probably be a little bit stubborn - I needed to work around it several times and tap it with a soft hammer to break the seal from the adhesive.

 

A few "while you're there" things to consider:

1. Disassemble and clean the breather.
2. Replace the throwout bearing and O-ring on the cylinder that rides in the rear cover. Since you have to take the clutch slave cylinder off, these two inexpensive items are otherwise very difficult to access.
3. Install a speed-bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder - to make future fluid flushes easier.

 

You only need special tools if you go further than in this picture and decide to take the case off the gear cluster.

 

[Tinus89]

The rear cover with the output shaft seal can be removed without special tools. There are two different size bolts (which have different torque specs). One of the large bolts fastens the battery ground cable (so you could install that with the tranny and just snake it back up to the battery). The cover will probably be a little bit stubborn - I needed to work around it several times and tap it with a soft hammer to break the seal from the adhesive.

 

A few "while you're there" things to consider:

1. Disassemble and clean the breather.
2. Replace the throwout bearing and O-ring on the cylinder that rides in the rear cover. Since you have to take the clutch slave cylinder off, these two inexpensive items are otherwise very difficult to access.
3. Install a speed-bleeder on the clutch slave cylinder - to make future fluid flushes easier.

 

Thanks for your extensive response! Things to consider:

1. Done that already.

2. How do I know when a bearing should be replaced? Sound? Parts are relatively expensive here and unavailable locally, so shipping costs go per part...

3. What's a speed-bleeder?

[Scud]

The throwout bearing is US$15.00 at MG Cycle:  http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=224 I understand that they make noise if they go bad, but I've never heard it. Replacing the bearing now is just a preventative idea for you - I'm sure you could get it from wherever you're going to get the rear seal.

 

Speed Bleeder:  http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&p=214100

[Tinus89]

The throwout bearing is US$15.00 at MG Cycle:  http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193&products_id=224 I understand that they make noise if they go bad, but I've never heard it. Replacing the bearing now is just a preventative idea for you - I'm sure you could get it from wherever you're going to get the rear seal.

 

Speed Bleeder:  http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19514&p=214100

 

I already have the rear seal:). I will consider the throwout bearing and speed bleeder, that seems very interesting!

[Lucky Phil]

Yes, you can easily replace a seal with the shaft in place. If you search for "seal removal tool" you will see there are lots of tools that can help you.

I use one like this to remove seals while the shaft is still in place:

51M1xwOjDML._SX355_.jpg

It is unlikely that you will remove the seal without damage to the seal, so you should try to have a replacement in your hand before you wreck the old one.

Be careful not to scratch the shaft or seal housing as you pry it out.

 

Have you seen this posting? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19778

Yes the "special tool" is called a flat blade screw driver. Slide the blade into the ID of the seal and gently lever it on the shaft shamfered edge. It will pop right out and the shaft wont be damaged but the seal will obviously be toast. Replace  with an OEM seal as it's special design.

To install make yourself a simple seal driver or just do it carefully with a large flat faced drift and a hammer.

 

Ciao

[Tinus89]

To install make yourself a simple seal driver or just do it carefully with a large flat faced drift and a hammer.Yes the "special tool" is called a flat blade screw driver. Slide the blade into the ID of the seal and gently lever it on the shaft shamfered edge. It will pop right out and the shaft wont be damaged but the seal will obviously be toast. Replace  with an OEM seal as it's special design.

 

Ciao

 

Thanks! That's the exact comment I was hoping for:)

 

 

[Tinus89]

Update time!

 

- Exit shaft seal replaced. Screwdriver method was peanuts, was out in under a minute.

- Roper plate received and installed. Thanks mr. Roper!

- Gearbox oil replaced.

 

- Rebuild in progress! Pics below. One tip: when you have installed a Roper plate and you are going to place the circlips retaining the piston pins, cover the hole underneath the piston. It might just drop in the engine (how do I know?).

 

[Tinus89]

And it's ready to go into the bike!

 

Question: do I need to re-torque the cilinder-head studs after a while? I now torqued them all to 42Nm as prescribed by the manual.

[Scud]

Coincidentally, I'm in about the same spot with an engine - just put the heads on yesterday. I understand that when using new base and head gaskets, it is a good practice to torque the heads, then let them sit overnight, then loosen slightly and re-torque. I think it's because the gaskets compress kind of slowly under the initial pressure. I haven't done that ye, and I'm open to being corrected.

[pete roper]

My procedure on the earlier bikes with kingerlite gaskets is to do the initial torque, then run the engine up to operating temperature and let it cool overnight. When cool re-torque. Then ride it until the first service interval at 500 miles/800km and re-torque again, (Engine cold of course.) and that's it. Never touch 'em again.

 

With the modern laminated steel gaskets it's set and forget.

[Tinus89]

That's interesting.... The only lower gasket (cylinder bottom) I could get here in the NL was a paper one... The one that came off it was indeed laminated with steel.,,

[Lucky Phil]

That's interesting.... The only lower gasket (cylinder bottom) I could get here in the NL was a paper one... The one that came off it was indeed laminated with steel.,,

Multi layered laminated steel are by far the best option over a paper/composite/gasket material base gaskets. The other option that I have used many times and works perfectly is sheet aluminium of the correct thickness to get the squish right cut to the cylinder base shape then simply use 3bond on both sides. Works perfectly and wont compress over time. I'm not a big fan of paper gaskets these days. Much prefer 3bond/Yamabond/Ducatibond for everything I can.

 

Ciao 

[68C]

Please tell me more about getting the squish band right.