30 amp fuse failure

[docc]

45 minutes ago, gstallons said:

docc , I am glad because I don't think anyone has an idea about a sequence of events or any sequence of diagnosis or steps on repairing this issue . I am sure no one knows for sure what has been done to repair this simple problem. 

Yessir, I am hoping that dedicated topic will lead to a resolution and may inform us why that charging wiring back to the battery gets so hot!

 

[gstallons]

The poor connection is responsible for the burnt fuse. That has to be looked at as either the cause or the effect or both.

 A buddy of mine was working on a Allmand light plant with a no charge condition . One of the two large wires going from the alternator to the regulator had 4 ohms more resistance than the other. He ran new wires from the alt. to the reg. and cured the charging problem. 

 I don't think the "congregation" understands how critical EVERYTHING is and how important every step is to fixing this condition.  It will be simple once it is corrected. 

[audiomick]

On 9/2/2024 at 11:46 PM, docc said:

edit: 77 posts, over six months, split to create a dedicated thread

I know from personal experience with another forum, that means somewhere between 3 and 4 hours work. At least, for someone who reads and types quickly.

Somebody buy that man a beer or three. I'd do it, but I'm too far away.

[Molly]

Reading through this thread and coming to appreciate the importance of a good ground. I've just ordered a surfeit of earth straps so I can connect everything to everything else. :-)

[gstallons]

Whatever you do , make sure you voltage regulator ground does NOT go directly to battery - terminal. Kiwi_Roy warned about this on the possibility of this becoming the main battery ground and frying the wiring harness.

[Kiwi_Roy]

This topic has been thrashed to bits.

The 30 Amp fuse holders do overheat, mine got so hot the fuse welded in place

I remember as an apprentice when crimp lugs first came out the inspector might ask you to solder the lug after crimping I doubt anyone does that these days.

I advocate dipping the bare wires in Vaseline before crimping this ensures the copper doesn't corrode if the joints get wet

A short length of heat shrink tubing over the lug and end of the insulation to keep water out.

If you use white heat shrink you can identify the wire with an indelable pen before shrinking it down with hot air gun making it easier to troubleshoot. When I re-wired my 72 Eldorado I used all black wires and identified them this way.

https://www.amazon.ca/STAEDTLER-Lumocolor-Superfine-Permanent-Waterproof/dp/B00R64NE42/ref=asc_df_B00R64NE42?

Edited June 24 by Kiwi_Roy

[gstallons]

I like the C.B. Docc has on his bike. the good thing about the factory set-up on mine , it will never fail because I will never ride them. The one thing I have is the fuses w/the LED that glow when the fuse fails. Expensive , yes. GREAT , YES .

[Kiwi_Roy]

7 hours ago, gstallons said:

I like the C.B. Docc has on his bike. the good thing about the factory set-up on mine , it will never fail because I will never ride them. The one thing I have is the fuses w/the LED that glow when the fuse fails. Expensive , yes. GREAT , YES .

The LED will not light up if the fuse holder is loose only if it melts

Edited June 25 by Kiwi_Roy

[gstallons]

Nope , the LED has one purpose . To show blown fuse only.  I didn't mean to mix "symptoms & fixes" together. 

[Molly]

On 5/28/2025 at 11:19 AM, gstallons said:

Whatever you do , make sure you voltage regulator ground does NOT go directly to battery - terminal. Kiwi_Roy warned about this on the possibility of this becoming the main battery ground and frying the wiring harness.

Thanks. Much appreciated. 

[docc]

On 5/28/2025 at 5:19 AM, gstallons said:

Whatever you do , make sure you voltage regulator ground does NOT go directly to battery - terminal. Kiwi_Roy warned about this on the possibility of this becoming the main battery ground and frying the wiring harness.

I'd like offer a clarification of this point . . .

The factory regulator ground is a small gauge wire that does go back to the battery through the factory wiring loom. The regulator (case) benefits from a robust ground directly to the engine/timing chest.

What is critical to prevent that tiny wire from (unsuccessfully) carrying the full grounding current, is to regularly service the battery negative/ main ground to the back of the gearbox behind the seat latch:

 

 

Otherwise: PHOOF!!

[Molly]

Thanks guys. I did this just a couple of weeks ago. It looked overdue...