GuzziMoto Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 Ahhhh, bike porn. I'll need a few minutes, guys. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.I.P. Mikko Posted August 20, 2020 Share Posted August 20, 2020 Bimota tried solving the brake and fork flex back in the 80’s with the Tesi Even raced it a few times. It did work to eliminate the changing geometry. Unfortunately the rods and such when starting to wear out would completely screw it up. It was a design best used for racing where the suspension would be rebuilt after each race. A few hundred were built for road use and are highly sought after. If you can find one for sale, expensive as well. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted August 21, 2020 Share Posted August 21, 2020 22 hours ago, Mikko said: Bimota tried solving the brake and fork flex back in the 80’s with the Tesi Even raced it a few times. It did work to eliminate the changing geometry. Unfortunately the rods and such when starting to wear out would completely screw it up. It was a design best used for racing where the suspension would be rebuilt after each race. A few hundred were built for road use and are highly sought after. If you can find one for sale, expensive as well. I actually got to "race" one of those at Summit Point in WV. It was the one Dale Quarterley raced at Daytona. Sadly, it had electrical issues and would not run more than a lap or so at a time. But it was very strange when you hit the brakes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 22, 2020 Share Posted August 22, 2020 Was this a good strange or a bad strange ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 On 8/21/2020 at 8:07 PM, gstallons said: Was this a good strange or a bad strange ? Well, I suppose it could be good. For instance, it seemed to handle bumps better while on the brakes. But it lacked the feel I am used to from the brakes, and it did not feel like it put enough weight on the front wheel when you were hard on the brakes. All in all, I would say it was a bad strange. But I have no doubt there were good aspects to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 14 hours ago, GuzziMoto said: Well, I suppose it could be good. For instance, it seemed to handle bumps better while on the brakes. But it lacked the feel I am used to from the brakes, and it did not feel like it put enough weight on the front wheel when you were hard on the brakes. All in all, I would say it was a bad strange. But I have no doubt there were good aspects to it. Yes feel and weight transfer were the major shortcomings. #1 priority on a race bike is front end feel. If you don't have that then everything else is wasted. The only people that had anything good to say about racing any of these style front end bikes were the people that had sponsorship ties and were paid to ride them from the Elf project on. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 7 hours ago, Lucky Phil said: Yes feel and weight transfer were the major shortcomings. #1 priority on a race bike is front end feel. If you don't have that then everything else is wasted. The only people that had anything good to say about racing any of these style front end bikes were the people that had sponsorship ties and were paid to ride them from the Elf project on. Ciao To be fair, I could see where it could make a great street bike if you can get it to work reliably without needing frequent attention to keep everything in working order. And I wonder how well the Yamaha street bike they sold has fared over time. But as a roadracing bike it leaves something to be desired. There is a reason why the Elf GP bike never really made that last step up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68C Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Ever ridden one of those old Honda 90 step through bikes, they have leading link forks with the brake unit fixed to the arm, when you brake the front end lifts up and pushes back at you on the handle bars. Actually rather fun in a way but did tend to patter on the road if wet and at speed.......55mph! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 A Honda 90 at 55mph . Not for me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 On 8/25/2020 at 9:34 PM, 68C said: Ever ridden one of those old Honda 90 step through bikes, they have leading link forks with the brake unit fixed to the arm, when you brake the front end lifts up and pushes back at you on the handle bars. Actually rather fun in a way but did tend to patter on the road if wet and at speed.......55mph! First bike I ever crashed. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted August 28, 2020 Share Posted August 28, 2020 Hmmmm , sounds like a new topic time . My First Crash & Burn . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MotoKnee Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 My reaction rod has about a mm of up/down play at the frame end, tight at the bevel box end. No obvious wear of the bushing, 3500 miles on the bike. The bolt at the front is marked as 10.9 NORM, which is different than the unmarked rear bolt. The rod and bushing move together w/ respect to the bolt, as if the bolt diameter is too small. No washers or spacers on the bolt head or on the nut end. I would like to remove the bolt for inspection, but not sure how much disassembly is necessary. Wheel off, drive supported etc. Or can it removed with the bike on the sidestand? Thanks for any guidance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted September 3 Author Share Posted September 3 21 minutes ago, MotoKnee said: My reaction rod has about a mm of up/down play at the frame end, tight at the bevel box end. No obvious wear of the bushing, 3500 miles on the bike. The bolt at the front is marked as 10.9 NORM, which is different than the unmarked rear bolt. The rod and bushing move together w/ respect to the bolt, as if the bolt diameter is too small. No washers or spacers on the bolt head or on the nut end. I would like to remove the bolt for inspection, but not sure how much disassembly is necessary. Wheel off, drive supported etc. Or can it removed with the bike on the sidestand? Thanks for any guidance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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