Lucky Phil Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Gunter How do you change the sring in 20 min ? Michel Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk By doing it in a time warp. It takes 10 minutes to clean the old sealant off the cover and access plate. Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabernet Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 Mine failed in 5th gear on a ride out with mates in the English Yorkshire Dales. My mates never realised until we arrived at the cafe. We had brunch and then I found the most direct route out the Dales on to the motorway network and cruised home. Gear linkage off Starter motor off Rear suspension res' moved out the way. Side of the gearbox off. Realise you should have drained the oil. Clear up the oil. Clean the mating surfaces. Retrieve all the broken spring. Disassemble the cam mechanism on the side plate, and re-assemble with the replacement spring, setting the two gear cams so that the dimples are at 3 and 9 o'clock (closest to each other). The mechanism is now in neutral. Using the spline shaft rachet into the gear the gear box is in, 5th in my case. Put some instant gasket goo thinly on the mating surfaces. Ease the side plate back on being sure the changing forks line up. Nip up. Moving the rear wheel back and forth gently, prove the gearbox function from 1st to 6th and leave in neutral. Add fresh oil. Replace suspension res', gear linkage and starter motor. Run up and ease through the gears on tick over. Test ride checking smoothness and oil leaks. 2 hours I'd say. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfanatiker Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 First of all remove neg. from battery. On the roadside it's not necessary to drain the oil. Lay the moto on the right side - ~30 deg from horizontal will be enough. ........ After opening the gearbox DON'T touch or move the gear forks! Take the cover and mark the position of gearwheel #12 to gearwheel #14 exactly (tooth to tooth) Remove #12 Don't touch or (re)move the gearwheel #14! ....... Change spring Attach gearwheel #12 in the former position. ...... Close box.... and drive Gunther Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cabernet Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 First of all remove neg. from battery. On the roadside it's not necessary to drain the oil. Lay the moto on the right side - ~30 deg from horizontal will be enough. ........ After opening the gearbox DON'T touch or move the gear forks! Take the cover and mark the position of gearwheel #12 to gearwheel #14 exactly (tooth to tooth, take a look on photo #17 on http://www.v11sport.de/downloads/Schaltfederwechsel_V11.pdf Remove #12 Don't touch or (re)move the gearwheel #14! ....... Change spring Attach gearwheel #12 in the former position. ...... Close box.... and drive Gunther Some good short cuts there. I never managed to get the PAWL arm off with the cam gears in place. Must be a knack to it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfanatiker Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 First of all remove neg. from battery. On the roadside it's not necessary to drain the oil. Lay the moto on the right side - ~30 deg from horizontal will be enough. ........ After opening the gearbox DON'T touch or move the gear forks! Take the cover and mark the position of gearwheel #12 to gearwheel #14 exactly (tooth to tooth, take a look on photo #17 on http://www.v11sport.de/downloads/Schaltfederwechsel_V11.pdf Remove #12 Don't touch or (re)move the gearwheel #14! ....... Change spring Attach gearwheel #12 in the former position. ...... Close box.... and drive Gunther Some good short cuts there. I never managed to get the PAWL arm off with the cam gears in place. Must be a knack to it. You have to remove the limit stop of the ratchet. There are two versions: 1st with a spring pin (as it has mine) - pull it out with a pliers 2nd with an excentric bolt (from VIN KT111436) - remove it by unscrewing the nut on the outside of the cover - remember its position and don't loose the gasket. "turn out" the ratchet from under gearwheel #14 ...... (holy sh.., my English ;-) Ok? Gunther Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 1, 2015 Share Posted August 1, 2015 Looks like a legitimate roadside repair photo - riding leathers and a V11 side stand sticking up at the prescribed angle! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomekSZ Posted August 2, 2015 Share Posted August 2, 2015 Ok thanks... the gear box is fine now. It turns out that it was putting together wrong. now I have another problem, unfortunately, it turned out that the clutch disengages the gear did not properly and I can not reach first gear. i.e. it is possible, but difficult. In any case, the motorcycle still keeps idling about 2k rpm. Clutch drags on and see but I bet clutch pump... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwi_Roy Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Ok thanks... the gear box is fine now. It turns out that it was putting together wrong. now I have another problem, unfortunately, it turned out that the clutch disengages the gear did not properly and I can not reach first gear. i.e. it is possible, but difficult. In any case, the motorcycle still keeps idling about 2k rpm. Clutch drags on and see but I bet clutch pump... There is no clutch pump, it;s just a simple lever and slave cylinder not unlike the brake. Idle speed has nothing to do with the gearbox, I suggest you do a TPS reset and throttle balance. As for not being able to select first Perhaps you just have the eccentric cam between the two ends of the spring out of adjustment. The pawl needs to spring back so the ratchet gets a fresh bite. Try moving the lever the opposite way a little first, that may cause the ratchet to catch. Someone please explain how to set the eccentric, I haven't had to do mine yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 It is rare that the eccentric needs adjusting. Rather more common that the foot lever strikes the frame side plate ("pork chop") in the downstroke. Worth inspecting, cleaning, lubricating, and adjusting (perhaps even shimming) the foot lever first. By "clutch pump" I thought Tomek was referring to what we might say "master cylinder" although the slave could also be considered a sort of "pump" as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 mine just went. pawl/boss 16.12mm, broken spring 17.24mm coil, new spring (MGCycle) 17mm coil.!? The springs bind very tight on the boss. There is no way the new spring will survive without belfastguzzi's finessed mods, which I will do, since I can't find a new arm...(ie:Harpers) Anyone know where they are available? And am I correct, it's Red Line Shock Proof heavy gear oil for the refill? I've read so much, I can't be sure. I'm going to replace the shift seal while the plate's off. And...assemble and carry a roadside repair kit. ps. guzzisti, don't despair, the venerable Yamaha XS 650 suffers from a similar affliction, as does the Kawasaki KLR650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomekSZ Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 hello, Yes i was talking about master cylinder - sorry for my english Byt i know what was the problem. I bought the bike from gay, He not ridden it completely almost never. The motorcycle was not used for a long time. Both the gearbox - on spring and in the clutch gathered rust. The spring is now ok, now gone/broke discs in the clutch - scattered almost as the sand. I'em also cheaging the master cylinder for brembo rcs 16 clutch, and 17 for breaks. I think it will be much better for me... so thank you for your help, and i think i em on right way now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBBenson Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 mine just went. pawl/boss 16.12mm, broken spring 17.24mm coil, new spring (MGCycle) 17mm coil.!? The springs bind very tight on the boss. There is no way the new spring will survive without belfastguzzi's finessed mods, which I will do, since I can't find a new arm...(ie:Harpers) Anyone know where they are available? And am I correct, it's Red Line Shock Proof heavy gear oil for the refill? I've read so much, I can't be sure. I'm going to replace the shift seal while the plate's off. And...assemble and carry a roadside repair kit. ps. guzzisti, don't despair, the venerable Yamaha XS 650 suffers from a similar affliction, as does the Kawasaki KLR650. I ended up grinding my down with a Dremel and aluminum oxide stone. A little hand filing to clean up the edges and shoulder of the boss too. I also used the Dremel polishing pads to get it nice and smooth. I ended up just shy of 15mm in diameter. I also reshaped the spot where the small pawl spring hook catches the edge of the shift linkage. The edge was pretty sharp so I rounded it off and made it smooth. Clamp in a bench vise and take your time going round and round, periodically measuring with a caliper gauge. Yes, Redline Heavy Shock Proof. Looks like strawberry yoghurt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfanatiker Posted August 8, 2015 Share Posted August 8, 2015 mine just went. pawl/boss 16.12mm, broken spring 17.24mm coil, new spring (MGCycle) 17mm coil.!? The springs bind very tight on the boss. There is no way the new spring will survive without belfastguzzi's finessed mods, which I will do, since I can't find a new arm...(ie:Harpers) Anyone know where they are available? And am I correct, it's Red Line Shock Proof heavy gear oil for the refill? I've read so much, I can't be sure. I'm going to replace the shift seal while the plate's off. And...assemble and carry a roadside repair kit. ps. guzzisti, don't despair, the venerable Yamaha XS 650 suffers from a similar affliction, as does the Kawasaki KLR650. Here it's on stock (#24, the upper one): http://www.wendelmotorraeder.de/schaltung-v11-mansskura-ex-30_3006_300602_30060203_3006020330_300602033012.html If you wanna order it write to info@wendelmotorraeder.com. They deliver with DHL. To save time and money for p+p tell them not to send as a parcel but as "Maxibrief international" (https://www.deutschepost.de/de/b/briefe-ins-ausland.html). Think, 5-10 days and you will have your "Ratchet" Gunther PS: http://www.tlm.nl/webshop/en/ratchet-v11-012351300000-moto-guzzi , p+p to US 35,00 EUR, holidays til 18th Aug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 mine just went. pawl/boss 16.12mm, broken spring 17.24mm coil, new spring (MGCycle) 17mm coil.!? The springs bind very tight on the boss. There is no way the new spring will survive without belfastguzzi's finessed mods, which I will do, since I can't find a new arm...(ie:Harpers) Anyone know where they are available? And am I correct, it's Red Line Shock Proof heavy gear oil for the refill? I've read so much, I can't be sure. I'm going to replace the shift seal while the plate's off. And...assemble and carry a roadside repair kit. ps. guzzisti, don't despair, the venerable Yamaha XS 650 suffers from a similar affliction, as does the Kawasaki KLR650. I ended up grinding my down with a Dremel and aluminum oxide stone. A little hand filing to clean up the edges and shoulder of the boss too. I also used the Dremel polishing pads to get it nice and smooth. I ended up just shy of 15mm in diameter. I also reshaped the spot where the small pawl spring hook catches the edge of the shift linkage. The edge was pretty sharp so I rounded it off and made it smooth. Clamp in a bench vise and take your time going round and round, periodically measuring with a caliper gauge. Yes, Redline Heavy Shock Proof. Looks like strawberry yoghurt. My dremmel experience didn't work so well. Very hard for me to keep it round,... and square, if that make sense. I just switched to hand file and it's working great. Positioning in the vise in such a way as to have a 'stop' for the file edge. Almost there. Meantime, thanks Gunther, turns out Harpers has a ratchet under a different P/N, (if you call them) so I have one on the way for my other '02 LM.... pre-emptive maint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
footgoose Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Just to sum up "my" fix. having followed directions from those kind souls posted, I have completed my swap and have but a few notes to add. I don't mean to hijack, just wanted to share. In theory, if the spring breaks while in gear, as long as you mark the cover plate cogs gear teeth (and linkage splines), and don't mess with the shift forks, it should all go back together just as taken apart and be in the same gear it was. Since I messed around with mine, I couldn't get the plate to line up. So, as previously suggested, I set the 4 shift forks centered between the gears, spin wheel, =neutral. The cover plate is easy. Turn the cogs till the neutral switch pops in to the divot that's on the back side of the lower cog = neutral. I purchased a new 15mm boss arm but used my orig re-sized one, as I see no difference. I eased the edge where the spring hooks on, replaced the arm seal, used three-bond as a gasket, and shock-proof heavy to finish. I can already tell a difference in shifting with the red line. Thanks to those who took the time to post their experience and knowledge. Big help! This job will be dead easy on my other spine, now I've done it, and which I will do BEFORE it breaks. If you're not sure about your spring and arm "status", I would urge anyone with an 02 (maybe others) to bite the bullet and do the fix. At least prepare and carry the roadside repair kit. It will break. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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