docc Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 For full disclosure, this is what I was after with the increased air gap: my (limited) understanding is that less air compresses less and tends to increase compression at the end of the stroke effectively shortening the travel (a sort of "harshness" toward the depth of the fork travel). Increasing the air gap can contribute to a more linear damping through the travel range. This is likely way oversimplified, but gives the idea. I would add that it is the last parameter to address after correct springs and preload ("sags"/ride heights), oil selection, and damping settings. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 3 hours ago, docc said: For full disclosure, this is what I was after with the increased air gap: my (limited) understanding is that less air compresses less and tends to increase compression at the end of the stroke effectively shortening the travel (a sort of "harshness" toward the depth of the fork travel). Increasing the air gap can contribute to a more linear damping through the travel range. This is likely way oversimplified, but gives the idea. I would add that it is the last parameter to address after correct springs and preload ("sags"/ride heights), oil selection, and damping settings. That is pretty accurate. Less air gap means the compression curve of the air that is there is steeper, so it will have a higher spring rate quicker. Keep in mind that a fork is, for all intent, a sealed system. The oil doesn't compress, so all the compressing has to be done by the air above the oil. That means the air above the oil acts like an air spring. Less air above the oil means that compression curve of the air spring is steeper. More air above the oil means the compression curve of the air spring is more gradual. If the air gap is small enough it can make it impossible for the forks to compress all the way. Been there, done that. A little more oil / less air can make the forks stiffer, especially towards the end of their travel. Less oil / more air can make the forks softer, especially towards the end of their travel. The effect of different oil levels / air gaps will be most noticeable towards the end of the forks travel. It can be a useful tuning tool, either on the track or on the street. It is as important in my opinion as getting the right spring rate. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted April 10 Share Posted April 10 Interesting thing about air springs, they are not a straight rate spring. A fixed volume like the air gap in front forks of a V11 would have a progressive rate. The more it is compressed, the higher the rate. If you have too high a fork oil level in your forks the air volume is too small and it will mean the air spring part of the forks is too stiff. The first place you would see that is at full compression of the forks, with higher oil levels increasing the spring rate further into the stroke from there. So, a slightly to high oil level in your forks would affect the forks near full compression. But as the fork oil level was increased the effect would creep further into the normal range of suspension travel. Way too much fork oil in the forks and they would essentially hydro-lock. Air will compress, but fork oil does not for all intent and purpose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted April 16 Author Share Posted April 16 Still not riding. I installed the Andreanni forks, no seal leaks. Installed my new adjustable bars by rerouting, rather than replacing the cables. It now steers clear, very pleased! However, I didn't test it yet because, once again my worm gear hose clamps are failing. I sprung a fuel injector hose leak and although I tightened it, it still leaks. The clamp is now stripped. Easy enough fix right? I now bought actual fuel injector clamps, being delivered today. The tough part is access. I now need to remove the tank, air box, etc. Grrr! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuzziMoto Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 1 hour ago, LaGrasta said: Still not riding. I installed the Andreanni forks, no seal leaks. Installed my new adjustable bars by rerouting, rather than replacing the cables. It now steers clear, very pleased! However, I didn't test it yet because, once again my worm gear hose clamps are failing. I sprung a fuel injector hose leak and although I tightened it, it still leaks. The clamp is now stripped. Easy enough fix right? I now bought actual fuel injector clamps, being delivered today. The tough part is access. I now need to remove the tank, air box, etc. Grrr! Lesson learned, I hope. Never use worm gear clamps on the high pressure side of fuel injection. Hope once that is sorted things go smooth. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 These are what you use on FI hoses. Norma cobra clips. Compact, easy to install, easy to remove, re useable, stainless steel, bullet proof sealing, colour banded for size identification. They sell a special tool to install them but it's not required in reality although I made up one using an old worn out pair of combination pliers for convenience sake. Purple banded size is what you need on 5/16 FI hose. I've been using them for many years and they work perfectly and look compact, professional and tidy. Worm drive clamps are horrible shit looking things. Bulky and just awful to look at. https://www.iq-parts-shop.com/en/norma-cobra-hose-clamp.html Phil 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 19 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: These are what you use on FI hoses. Norma cobra clips. Compact, easy to install, easy to remove, re useable, stainless steel, bullet proof sealing, colour banded for size identification. They sell a special tool to install them but it's not required in reality although I made up one using an old worn out pair of combination pliers for convenience sake. Purple banded size is what you need on 5/16 FI hose. I've been using them for many years and they work perfectly and look compact, professional and tidy. Worm drive clamps are horrible shit looking things. Bulky and just awful to look at. https://www.iq-parts-shop.com/en/norma-cobra-hose-clamp.html Phil I always hated these because I did not have the right tool for them. Plus, I did not think they are reusable (?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 Nope docc tool not required and re-useable. You can release them with a very small bladed straight screw driver and to secure them you can use a pair of side cutters or pincher pliers even multi grips if you have plenty of room. Thats how I did them for years until one day I was about to throw away an old pair of combo pliers and thought I wonder if I can re purpose these into a Cobra clip tool. Five minutes on the grinder and done. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted April 16 Share Posted April 16 3 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: Nope docc tool not required and re-useable. You can release them with a very small bladed straight screw driver and to secure them you can use a pair of side cutters or pincher pliers even multi grips if you have plenty of room. Thats how I did them for years until one day I was about to throw away an old pair of combo pliers and thought I wonder if I can re purpose these into a Cobra clip tool. Five minutes on the grinder and done. Phil "Pro Tip!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted April 22 Author Share Posted April 22 Monday morning update. I successfully replaced all of my fuel line clamps with actual FI clamps. So now my leaking hoses are taken care of, my new riser handlebars are installed, and my newly fitted Andreani forks are ready. So I crank the ignition, it starts for a moment or so then dies. I crank until the battery is dead. I charge the battery and upon retrying to start it, I notice I never unplugged the fuel line to the regulator. I immediately realize the worst of it. By repeatedly cranking a plugged line, I blew the fuel pump. Ordered a new one, due here in a week. #fail 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
po18guy Posted April 22 Share Posted April 22 On 4/16/2024 at 10:16 AM, GuzziMoto said: Lesson learned, I hope. Never use worm gear clamps on the high pressure side of fuel injection. Hope once that is sorted things go smooth. YouTube member Project Farm tested various hose clamps to the failure point. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaGrasta Posted Monday at 03:34 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 03:34 PM Spent the weekend riding, about 40 miles. The new suspension, combined with the new handle bars made for numerous required comfort adjustments, still more to go. Riding into work this morning on the freeway, realized immediately rebound is too much, the other settings may be about right. As for the handlebars, more need for adjustment, as they are not square. The Andreanni cartridges really did make a difference, allowing for preload, compression, and rebound. The specific issues I was experiencing are now gone. I'll continue to refine the settings, and see if I'm not eventually a huge fan as I am with my Traxxion Dynamics setup on my V7. By the way, I successfully replaced the fuel pump, only to later find it was merely the fuel pump fuse. I was so focused on the fuel pump relay, I completely forgot to check the fuse. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gstallons Posted yesterday at 08:22 AM Share Posted yesterday at 08:22 AM Develop a test procedure for everything . You will understand why after payiing for not needed parts . AKA , the education is nice but the tuition is killing me ! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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