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Possible bad rectifier?


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Actually, it is the brake light affected (with the headlight, horn, tach, and charging) by this relay issue. The tail light is on the non-relay circuit with the running/"city" light and the instrument illumination.

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1 hour ago, GuzziMoto said:

New quality relays is always a good idea. Also, make sure the bases where they plug into are clean and tight. A quality relay with a bad connect doesn't work any better then a cheap relay with a good connection.

Back when we would travel on motorcycles we would always carry a spare set of relays for the wife's V11. We only needed them a couple times,  but when you need them you need them, and you aren't going to find them in the middle of Pennsyltucky.

A classic sign that the relay was not working was also the lack of a tail light as I recall. We did run into situations were the relay would stick and only work some of the time. The clues that the relay was not working were a weak headlight (because the real headlight would not work, only the running light worked), the tach would act up, and the taillight would not work.

Thanks GuzziMoto. From what I can tell all my lights/signals/horn work as they should. FedEx is telling my new relays will be here today, and I do go eah and order 10 more of the relays Docc called out above. I plan on using contact cleaner on the FL relays base but other than feeling a slight amount of resistance when replacing the relay, how do I go about tightening how they sit in the base? I'm sorry if this seems like a rudimentary question, I swear I've been ridding Guzzis for 2 decades, it's just that my old Cali Stone has been dead nuts reliable without any of these types of issues. 

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12 minutes ago, motoguzzikc said:

Thanks GuzziMoto. From what I can tell all my lights/signals/horn work as they should. FedEx is telling my new relays will be here today, and I do go eah and order 10 more of the relays Docc called out above. I plan on using contact cleaner on the FL relays base but other than feeling a slight amount of resistance when replacing the relay, how do I go about tightening how they sit in the base? I'm sorry if this seems like a rudimentary question, I swear I've been ridding Guzzis for 2 decades, it's just that my old Cali Stone has been dead nuts reliable without any of these types of issues. 

Inspect the connectors in the relay bases for looseness. If they need tightening, @Kiwi_Roy gave us a procedure:

 

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1 hour ago, docc said:

Actually, it is the brake light affected (with the headlight, horn, tach, and charging) by this relay issue. The tail light is on the non-relay circuit with the running/"city" light and the instrument illumination.

Your right, it is specifically the brake light function of the tail light that doesn't work when that relay is not relaying. Thanks for the correction.

I was following the wife through Pennsyltuckey and was impressed that she was never hitting the brakes. Turns out her relay was not relaying.

It is possible you have an R/R issue, but I suggest you make sure it is not one of the more common issues that plague the V11 Sport first before shelling out the coins for a new R/R.

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22 hours ago, motoguzzikc said:

Took the bike out yesterday and after about a 25 min ride the tach started to sweep as if the bike was just being turned on and would then return to the RPMs the engine was running at. This would occure about every 30 seconds -2 mins. I turned around right away to get the bike home and aside from the tach it was running like a top.

Is your tachometer Veglia?

If it is, the "dancing" pointer is due to a "leaking" ground inside the instrument. I have recently purchased a Moto Guzzi equipped with a Veglia affected with the same problem, and I got it fixed by a specialist in Germany. The grounding issue is very well known and easy to cure. However, opening the instrument without damaging it requires some special skills and tools. I sent both the instruments, so the pointers could be painted again, and more visible.

Unfortunately, shipping from the USA is extremely expensive. I paid 234 USD to Germany, while the shipping in the opposite direction is 50 EUR for 5kg. But I spare nothing when it comes to making my Guzzi bellisime! (Belissima = singular).

Before:

tachometer front

After:

IMG_1959

 

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@p6x the veglia failed years ago and dad replaced with with an Equus. This Amazon link appears to be the same tach. Equus 8068 3-3/8" Tachometer (DIS), White with Aluminum Bezel https://a.co/d/6TEqrOT

@docc my new relays from have arrived by digikey but it appears they sent the wrong ones. The last oder I received said 11v CIT RELAY at the bottom where as these say 07v and they are blowing my 10a ignition switch fuse every time I turn the bike on. Looks like I'm going to ha w to let the problem set for a few days while I wait for new relays again. 

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2 hours ago, motoguzzikc said:

@p6x the veglia failed years ago and dad replaced with with an Equus. This Amazon link appears to be the same tach. Equus 8068 3-3/8" Tachometer (DIS), White with Aluminum Bezel https://a.co/d/6TEqrOT

@docc my new relays from have arrived by digikey but it appears they sent the wrong ones. The last oder I received said 11v CIT RELAY at the bottom where as these say 07v and they are blowing my 10a ignition switch fuse every time I turn the bike on. Looks like I'm going to ha w to let the problem set for a few days while I wait for new relays again. 

Edit: As noted by @Speedfrog, you had the wrong/24V product listed in your post:

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/cit-relay-and-switch/A11CSQ24VDC1-2D/12502798?s=N4IgTCBcDaIIIEYEGEDKBFMAWAagEWQQDow8ACEAXQF8g

[Welldone, @Speedfrog!]

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52 minutes ago, motoguzzikc said:

the veglia failed years ago and dad replaced with with an Equus. This Amazon link appears to be the same tach. Equus 8068 3-3/8" Tachometer (DIS), White with Aluminum Bezel https://a.co/d/6TEqrOT

Much cheaper solution indeed...

I am a sucker for trying to keep everything original.

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7 minutes ago, p6x said:

Much cheaper solution indeed...

I am a sucker for trying to keep everything original.

I understand and definitely appreciate this mindset. I remember when he replaced it and he was satisfied with how it worked but I don't think was ever nuts about how it looked. I just can't drop $600+ on a used Veglia right now. I have had 3 go bad in one way or the other on my Stone over the last 20 years so I am a bit hesitant to invest the money on a tach that might kind of work but will look good. This is my only bike with an analog tach. My Stone is just a speedo and my BMW has a digital screen. Seeing a digital bar raise and lower isn't nearly as fun as watching that tach needle rise and fall !

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22 hours ago, motoguzzikc said:

Docc - based off pass posts I read on here concerning relays I ordered a 10 pack of CIT A11CSQ24VDC1.2D from digikey. . . .

 

49 minutes ago, docc said:

These are 24volts relays - diode protected . . . .

The ones to get for our V11s from Picker Components >> PC782-1C-12S-R-X

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/pc782-1c-12s-r-x/12352866

 

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3 minutes ago, Speedfrog said:

 

These are 24volts relays - diode protected . . . .

The ones to get for our V11s from Picker Components >> PC782-1C-12S-R-X

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/picker-components/pc782-1c-12s-r-x/12352866

 

@docc I was wrong in saying that. I believe the relays that were just delivered are all 24v  wlWhen comparing my original order from digikey that I bought last month and the order that showed up today they are not the same relay 

The first set of relays I was sent 12VDC1.2R

But the new relays are marked as 2VDC1.2R

 

 

20240416_160946.jpg

20240416_150009.jpg

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33 minutes ago, motoguzzikc said:

But the new relays are marked as 2VDC1.2R

If you are referring to your second picture, they are indeed 24volts relays >> 24VDC1.2D

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