JGP Posted June 13 Posted June 13 Drama is over. I was going to perform the bench test above, I was cleaning up the parts, when it hit me that something was not right. One side of the clutch plate was "welded" to the clutch disc that bolts up to the ring gear side of the clutch. Not sure how I missed that, but that's all part of the DIY life. It welded due to the clutch dust and other moisture (s) in that general area. I am on the hunt for a thread where Docc outlined certain seals and plugs that are readily accessible with the engine and transmission out. If anyone knows off the top where that is, I would appreciate a link. Thanks to all for their help. 2
JGP Posted June 13 Posted June 13 BTW if anyone has original Scura/Tenni clutch pressure plate or clutch disc, in good shape, hanging around from their single plate swap, I am a buyer. Please contact me. 2
Pressureangle Posted June 13 Posted June 13 Harpermoto.com has everything, at least they had everything I needed sealwise from rear main to output shaft, within the week. https://harpermoto.com/collections/2002-v-11-le-mans-1100-transmission-cage 1
JGP Posted June 13 Posted June 13 (edited) 1 hour ago, Pressureangle said: Harpermoto.com has everything, at least they had everything I needed sealwise from rear main to output shaft, within the week. https://harpermoto.com/collections/2002-v-11-le-mans-1100-transmission-cage Yup. After nearly 25 years, and multiple repairs, i know a lot of these guys. I used to use Joe Eish a lot, he was out in Ohio, a long time ago. I have seen people put some sort of sealant on the Welch plug. I think that was part of the problem. Any recommendations on what sort of sealant? Edited June 13 by JGP 1
docc Posted June 13 Posted June 13 4 hours ago, JGP said: Drama is over. I was going to perform the bench test above, I was cleaning up the parts, when it hit me that something was not right. One side of the clutch plate was "welded" to the clutch disc that bolts up to the ring gear side of the clutch. Not sure how I missed that, but that's all part of the DIY life. It welded due to the clutch dust and other moisture (s) in that general area. I am on the hunt for a thread where Docc outlined certain seals and plugs that are readily accessible with the engine and transmission out. If anyone knows off the top where that is, I would appreciate a link. Thanks to all for their help. In addition to the rear main, there are two gaskets, the cam "bung", and the two bolts at the bottom of the main carrier that need sealing. Then two on the gearbox and one that I am forgetting.... 3
JGP Posted June 13 Posted June 13 1 hour ago, docc said: In addition to the rear main, there are two gaskets, the cam "bung", and the two bolts at the bottom of the main carrier that need sealing. Then two on the gearbox and one that I am forgetting.... Thank you! I think I can add oil pan gasket to my list as well. 2
Pressureangle Posted June 14 Posted June 14 4 hours ago, JGP said: Thank you! I think I can add oil pan gasket to my list as well. Got an official Pete Roper slosh plate? 2
JGP Posted June 14 Posted June 14 8 hours ago, Pressureangle said: Got an official Pete Roper slosh plate? Not sure? In case anyone is interested, I could be well into the minority on this one, Surflex is going to restart production of the original clutch plate for the single plate V11 clutch. Moto Guzzi part number GU 01081940. Contrary to what I had read else where, this is Surflex part number 83 M 1. Production is to begin week 29, 2025. The notched version of that plate, Surflex 83 M 4, will be produced in 2026, no specific date given. Price is 120 euro plus shipping and handling. They are currently taking orders. They returned my email on a Saturday so, I am almost positive it's a scam. If anyone is interested go to the Surflex website and send an email to their contact email address requesting information. English language is fine. If this needs to be moved elsewhere, please feel free. 2
pete roper Posted June 14 Author Posted June 14 Even if it was a genuine Surflex response I’d be wary. The Surflex plate splineform are wrong and their hardening, at least on the twin plate plates, which I would imagine would use the same centres as the single plate, have for years, nay decades, been woefully poorly hardened leading to the splines chopping out in short order. I can provide plenty of photographic proof if needs be but it would be a chore to find and I can’t be bothered. Anyway, simply a word of warning from long experience. I’d rather trepan myself with a butter knife than use them in one of my bikes……. 3 1
JGP Posted June 14 Posted June 14 5 minutes ago, pete roper said: Even if it was a genuine Surflex response I’d be wary. The Surflex plate splineform are wrong and their hardening, at least on the twin plate plates, which I would imagine would use the same centres as the single plate, have for years, nay decades, been woefully poorly hardened leading to the splines chopping out in short order. I can provide plenty of photographic proof if needs be but it would be a chore to find and I can’t be bothered. Anyway, simply a word of warning from long experience. I’d rather trepan myself with a butter knife than use them in one of my bikes……. I had a stop watch on you Pete! Your views on Surflex are well understood. I have 10K miles on my single plate Surflex and it has 1/2 life left, and I like to rip with the best of them. That is not uncommon wear from what I have read others report. That's why we have Ford v. Ferrari; It makes the world go 'round. I have no financial interest in Surflex. I am not sure that all the swap-out proponents can say the same about the products they are standing behind....just sayin' 2
pete roper Posted June 14 Author Posted June 14 Is that a fibre plate or one of the bronze ‘Racing’ plates? 10k strikes me as a ridiculously short clutch life for anything but the most extreme racing situations! 2
gstallons Posted June 14 Posted June 14 23 hours ago, JGP said: Drama is over. I was going to perform the bench test above, I was cleaning up the parts, when it hit me that something was not right. One side of the clutch plate was "welded" to the clutch disc that bolts up to the ring gear side of the clutch. Not sure how I missed that, but that's all part of the DIY life. It welded due to the clutch dust and other moisture (s) in that general area. I am on the hunt for a thread where Docc outlined certain seals and plugs that are readily accessible with the engine and transmission out. If anyone knows off the top where that is, I would appreciate a link. Thanks to all for their help. The proper term is "stuck". You can clean all of this off w/a Roloc disc and get a smooth surface. Spray Brake-Kleen on everything to get the rust and dust off all the metal parts. Also , spray dry film graphite on all metal splines to ensure smooth operation and keep things from rusting. 2
JGP Posted June 14 Posted June 14 4 hours ago, pete roper said: Is that a fibre plate or one of the bronze ‘Racing’ plates? 10k strikes me as a ridiculously short clutch life for anything but the most extreme racing situations! It's the standard, Scura/Tenni clutch, some sort of bronze composite. I wrote 10K miles = 1/2 life. Which is in-line with what other Scura owners have reported-changing out clutch plate at around 20K miles. On mine, wear is primarily due to wear on friction material, the splines are showing a little wear, but nothing that I am worried about failing before the clutch material wears out.
JGP Posted June 14 Posted June 14 1 hour ago, gstallons said: The proper term is "stuck". You can clean all of this off w/a Roloc disc and get a smooth surface. Spray Brake-Kleen on everything to get the rust and dust off all the metal parts. Also , spray dry film graphite on all metal splines to ensure smooth operation and keep things from rusting. Noted. Thanks for the info. No rust, just clutch dust and a little oil, probably from either the bottom of the breather hose/tube or the Welch plug (or whatever term preferred) for the cam. Clutch dust and oil makes for a pretty strong bond. I am going to paint the seam on the plug with 3 coats of Glyptal Red. Put some vw silicone sealant (they make a pretty good product $$$) on the breather tube gasket and look for a better clamp to the breather hose. Follow some of the other points in Docc's thread. I don't see the point in changing seals at 10K miles, even if it's getting up in years, they all look good. I put sealant on the 2 lower bolts on the crank flange. They were dry and had been factory-treated with some sort of sealant that was a mix between glue and bubblegum. 2
docc Posted June 14 Posted June 14 52 minutes ago, JGP said: I put sealant on the 2 lower bolts on the crank flange. They were dry and had been factory-treated with some sort of sealant that was a mix between glue and bubblegum. (Italian) glue + bubblegum = olive oil Pretty sticky. Until the first time it heats up . . . 1
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