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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, audiomick said:

You're absolutely right. I used a silicon based sealant for the crankcase on my V35 Imola when I put it back together after taking it completely apart after I bought it. I was confident that that was not a completely stupid idea because the manual for the Z series Kawasakis stipulated Kawasaki Bond for that application. That is also a silicon based sealant. However, I made about 5 attempts using less and less of the sealant before I was satisfied the the amount applied was little enough to not have any spillage into the oil galleries. B)

 

For the longest time I was using Loctite 515 anaerobic sealer for aluminum parts such as transfer cases,etc. I used it so much I would buy a caulking tube size from the I-H dealership. As with any sealant if it just comes out of the mating surfaces it is just the right amount. I used Yamabond on motorcycle engines and I lived in fear when I assembled them thinking "this goop can't possibly work", but it always did. As with anything , preparation is everything.  

I was raised old school where my dad used Indian Head Gasket Shellac on EVERYTHING including radiator / heater hoses. Did it leak? No. Did it come off or leak? NO. 

Edited by gstallons
  • Like 1
Posted

My go to for joint sealants is Threebond 1211.

With the gaskets for one of my plates, if they were the later more malleable, aftermarket type, I never used anything. On dry and crush to ‘Feel’. 

That’s me though with a lifetime of experience. Novices should probably be more careful…..

  • Like 3
Posted
1 hour ago, pete roper said:

My go to for joint sealants is Threebond 1211.

With the gaskets for one of my plates, if they were the later more malleable, aftermarket type, I never used anything. On dry and crush to ‘Feel’. 

That’s me though with a lifetime of experience. Novices should probably be more careful…..

Seems somewhere in the past I read that Kawasaki bond, Hondabond, and a few other OEM sealants were 3M Threebond packaged for them. Great stuff.
I don't usually put anything on gaskets unless I know it's a problematic spot, like something older that's not quite straight or dinged up from ham-fisted scraping in the past. The MG sump gaskets appear to have a thin sealant coating or saturated something that seals them up, as they leave a very thin mark or layer when disassembled, if they were assembled dry. 
Relevant to the Roper plates, the surfaces are well-finished, flat, rigid, and have a lot of bolts so I suspect that any good sealer could be used in place of gaskets. Applying sealer to the upper, well that's inconvenient and quite likely a bit oil contaminated if it hasn't sat overnight and well cleaned. There's potential for excess to squeeze out and enter the oil. The only weak reasons not to use the gaskets is cost, and the misalignment of the kickstand bracket, neither of which is costly or difficult. 

  • Like 2
Posted
On 10/28/2025 at 4:57 AM, Pressureangle said:

Seems somewhere in the past I read that Kawasaki bond, Hondabond, and a few other OEM sealants were 3M Threebond packaged for them. Great stuff.
I don't usually put anything on gaskets unless I know it's a problematic spot, like something older that's not quite straight or dinged up from ham-fisted scraping in the past. The MG sump gaskets appear to have a thin sealant coating or saturated something that seals them up, as they leave a very thin mark or layer when disassembled, if they were assembled dry. 
Relevant to the Roper plates, the surfaces are well-finished, flat, rigid, and have a lot of bolts so I suspect that any good sealer could be used in place of gaskets. Applying sealer to the upper, well that's inconvenient and quite likely a bit oil contaminated if it hasn't sat overnight and well cleaned. There's potential for excess to squeeze out and enter the oil. The only weak reasons not to use the gaskets is cost, and the misalignment of the kickstand bracket, neither of which is costly or difficult. 

Sadly the bolts are made out of parmasen so that's why they needed so many.

  • Haha 1
Posted
On 10/27/2025 at 11:28 AM, audiomick said:

Watched that today. Thanks very much @swooshdave :thumbsup:

Making people wonder what a rusty star picket is since 2019.

  • Haha 2
Posted
On 10/27/2025 at 11:37 AM, Pressureangle said:

I don't remember where I learned the history of Hylomar - we used it at H-D, but not at the factory's recommendation.

It was developed by Rolls-Royce to join 'non-precision' joints in aircraft, as during wartime production quality was imperfect, gaskets cost money and took time to replace and carry in inventory as mechanics had to scrape and replace them. Hylomar seals joints that carry lube well, doesn't harden, and applies easily. Good stuff. I used to use it as a base gasket on the racing sportsters, as we got another .015" of compression by eliminating the gasket. Never leaked. 
Would probably work in place of gaskets on a Roper plate, but I was scared to try it...if I have either of mine off I'll use Hylomar instead of gaskets and see how long it lasts.

Quote

Rolls-Royce Merlin (V-12 liquid-cooled inline):
The Merlin powered legendary aircraft like the Spitfire, Hurricane, P-51 Mustang, and Lancaster bomber. Early models produced ~1,000 hp, escalating to over 2,000 hp by war's end through supercharger refinements and higher-octane fuels. Precision was paramount: every part was measured to "tiny fractions of an inch," a standard unheard of in the 1930s but essential for modular assembly and high-altitude performance. British drawings specified exacting fits, but tolerances were sometimes looser than automotive standards to allow hand-fettling in low-volume production. When Ford of Britain and Packard (U.S.) licensed it, they tightened tolerances for mass production—Ford engineers reportedly said Rolls-Royce specs were "too loose" for interchangeable parts on assembly lines. Packard converted drawings to American standards, enabling ~55,000 U.S.-built Merlins with superior consistency and overhaul intervals.

 

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