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I was planning to do what Phil suggested. Get the new plug, fill up, do a quick run, drain and check what comes out. I really feel bad, because this plug was only touched by MPH, and I was planning the oil change after this run. I would have discovered it before too late. There wasn't any oil spilled underneath, it all happened in the 500 miles prior. I am probably going to have that transmission opened, because it will always be in the back of my mind. Plus, I can't sell the bike like this now. It would be unfair. I also realized that I was lucky to not fall... see how oil wet is the right-hand side of the rear tire? Even worse, instead of overnighting, I rode back home, in the night, with the Quota non-existent lights, I arrived at 2:00 because I was going slow. But now that I know there was no oil in the final transmission, I don't think it made much difference.

"Goin' down to [V'leven] Alleeeeey . . . See what is goin' on" . . .

Just drill a small lockwire hole in the shroud to wire to or an angled hole in the drain plug boss. Phil

I am planning to do that, as soon as I get the plug. Like in your photo, the plug I purchased can be secured with a wire. But you need a fixed point to attached it to. But I would feel better if I could take a look inside.

Every now and then I'm reminded why I do this. 220 miles without oil! I'm thinking the drive escaping this unscathed is about zero. You could fill it up and run it for a few miles and check the mag plug again and drained oil as docc suggested but I'm thinking it will be a long shot. Phil

As far as I can tell, it is, but that doesn't mean you need to go for test rides each time you change the shims. The process is, as far as I can tell, bolt it up with engineer's blue on one side, turn it a couple of times, and take it apart to see where the contact surface is. I'm fairly sure you know what engineer's blue is. For those that don't, this. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engineer's_blue I learned what it is from the novel "The Sand Pebbles" from Richard McKenna, which was proscribed literature in my English classes at school at some point. Just shows to go you what school is good for.

As challenging as the V11 Sport/LeMans tank shape is to fathom whilst integrated with the rest of the original design, it is quite an abomination all by itself! Might as while mount up a Quat-D exhaust for "balance" . . . And the battery and the relays and the fuses and the ECU . . . oh, my!

If you want to watch an epic MotoGP, one for the books, then watch the replay of the French GP today! I do not want to spoil it; however, the attendance record was smashed for the first time since the number of spectators was divulged. They blew through the 300k ceiling of last year, which was already the record attendance, for all GPs. But today's race will remain in history for multiple reasons. I leave you to watch it...

Mate, yours is a gem. Here's some pictures for future generations who might read this after the ad has been taken down. The bike in question (one can actually see the green on the tank where the spray-can grey has worn off) and the seat sub-frame in red and a photo of parts showing the green front mud-guard.

If you pour something through to rinse the box through the drain hole, does any metal swarf come out that would indicate damage?

Makes me feel really good about what is left of mySport.

I see the ad is "ended", and a further look at all the photos indicates that the poor thing was once a Greenie. One can only hope that she has been passed on to someone with enough decency to restore her to her former glory.

The Neodymium magnet makes all the difference!!! Seriously, the Guzzi original one cost about 14 USD from the usual places. Then you need to also add the shipping. Here, they built the shipping into the price, so all in all, it's the same. The main difference, Votex has it in stock, while the others have to order it after you pay. Delivery in June! I want to fix that Quota as fast as possible.

I have actually shimmed things... I have run Electrical Submersible Pumps in oil wells. You do that when the well is not eruptive, and when you want to have a better flow rate than from those horse head pumps that you see in the movies... You assembled these pumps vertically, when you run them in hole. Since the actual assembly you run in hole is made of various elements, the first element that goes in is the electrical motor. On top of it comes the protector, and on top is the pump itself. Each of these elements have to be shimmed in order for the spline shafts to not bear the weight from the outer housing. I believe the shimming that takes place in the final drive of the Guzzi is based on the same principle. I went through the workshop manual, and the entire procedure is extremely well explained! For example, the torque value of the oil plugs are given, using the older metric unit mkg. 3 mkg for filler plugs, and 2.5 mkg for level and drain plugs. 25 Nm and 29 Nm respectively. The spacing, or shimming, procedure is not described, but the principle is the same as for the ESP above. You don't want the gearing to be compressed when you torque the sides. I guess it is a trial and error job. You torque it, and check the rotation to make sure it is free to turn. I have downloaded the manual, since it can be used for the V11. Some of the special tools could probably be built.

I managed to find this detailed imaged of the brake side emphasizing the "Make-damn-sure Zip-tie " and the location of the "Little ball." Pretty sure, on the clutch side it is a little plastic puck as the switch actuator, but still too easy to let fall out . . .

By the way, does anyone need the Griso 1100 muffler shown in the picture above? The bloke who had the fairing part for sale also had that, and was so dead set on getting rid of it that he gave it to me. The number on it is ZGU1001 So if anyone needs it, and thinks the delivery costs from Germany to wherever are worth it, it's up for grabs. Just for the cost of delivery, or come an pick it up in Leipzig.

Must be good, then, eh.

Yes. I took the final drive from my V35 Imola to the workshop when I rebuilt it for exactly that reason. I feel it is a job that should probably be done by someone who has a bit of experience, and has a "feel" for it. And a bucket of shims to swap them in and out until it is right. Having said that, I gather it is not actually all that difficult. The older workshop manuals explain it fairly well. For instance here, on page 93. https://guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1000/1000SP_G5_Atelier(F)V3.pdf PS: I think there are also a couple of "special tools" involved.

Well, I paid 1,788.18 dollars to MPH to go through the bike after I brought it here in H'town. I guess you just need to do everything yourself, which I would if I was properly equipped. I just ordered the oil plug; since none of the usual suspects had it in stock, I widened my search and purchased one from an auto part for 30 dollars delivered.... 30 bucks for a less than 1 dollar oil drain plug.... but it is made in the USA...

Buddy , you need to go over this bike w/a fine tooth comb and tighten EVERYTHING and top off all fluids.

@Ali Fra Remote troubleshooting is like fumbling in the dark... As @gstallons says, you need to completely give the forum all the details of the issue you are experiencing. The very best, is to make a video, showing exactly what happens. Get someone to shoot the video while you go through the motions of attempting to start it, and what you do to get it started. Your biggest clue, as shown in the video I posted in my initial reply to you, is the fact that my warning lights, my head beam, loses intensity when I depress the start button. I am closing the circuit, which means I have conductivity in my wires. However, I do not get enough amps to get the solenoid to fully work. If you have an intermittent connection somewhere, meaning that pushing the start button does not result in any change of the intensity, then you have a wiring problem. Check your circuit for integrity. Start your engine, leave the side stand deployed, and put it in gear. That should instantaneously kill the engine.

As is, with no oil, no different noise that with oil.... To tell you the truth, the gearbox makes so much noise that it would be hard to detect a whining noise from the final transmission. But there is a ball bearing inside that final transmission; I lost item 33 and of course 9. 26 is a ball bearing. Since I had the IMS changed on my Porsche, I have learned that some Ball Bearings are sealed, and lubricated for the duration of their lives and the IMS fails because it was not meant to be lubricated by engine oil. It is a bit of the same with the wet timing belt issue. Those belts were never designed to be immersed in engine oil. I would not think this one is one of them. What really annoys me, is that I can't even check what type it is, because all you get is a Guzzi part number. As you see in drawing 16, 24, 25, 26 are shims. So there is an adjustment necessary if you take the final drive apart. I would have no idea how to properly set it up.

LU REDLINE Synth Gearoil 75W90 GL5/1 says the invoice....

I detect a red tinge to the area. Per chance was the oil in it RedLine ShockProof Heavyweight?