Leaderboard

Scott and I are South'n bound and down, loaded up and truckin'!

Cheers, Docc! I'm the one that ran in to Paul at the "Time Warp Tea Room" on their bike night. I'm sure I'll find my way to Tellico this weekend.

While I was out today I just happen to see a Magnacharge was in my town I didn’t realize. Picked up a new PC 545 odyssey battery, playing a round of golf while they give the new battery a bit of a boost. Will report back.

Who's here? Just got in!

Pfffft. A little anti seize, don't worry, be happy.

So mine is a V11 Lemans "sport" based on the VIN, with the full Ohlins suspension (it also has the adjustable, remote reservoir rear Ohlins), and a full fairing with non-standard paint possibly added after sale? I do love the bike and am simply interested in it's possible history. It was strange that it had 2000 miles on it and the guy I bought it from said he was the first titled owner having bought it only a year or so previously (at auction if memory serves me right). There is a decade of mystery I am interested in figuring out.

Thanks Docc and Footgoose and to all those who replied earlier. I’ve decided to go with the recommended sae 10 since I don’t know what was put in or how much if they ever touched the forks. It may be 15 years old. I have almost enough sag up front and I’m using plenty of travel so I won’t deviate from recommended until I know I have the correct weight (10)at the right quantity(.870) Start with 400 per side as you said and look at air gap. I’ll let you know exactly how much oil goes in and how much air gap and how it rides afterwards. You all have been incredibly helpful. Glad I joined. Now I’m going to search topics for rear sets or lower pegs. I have long legs and love this bike for the first hour or two. Like it until the 4th hour, but I rode from UK to Mandello del Lario last month and the long days on motorways killed my knees. Seat height is too close to peg height for my legs. I’ll look on this forum for suggestions. cheers guys

docc, MartyNZ & Kiwi Roy (our resident electrical consultant) have nailed it I'm not sure about your running light statement and fail to understand it. On my computer the link to the wiring diagram is also broken. It's due to the rather Heath Robinson (if you know who he is) circuit that Guzzi used linking the circuit for the warning bulb, it's quite clever and works if you don't change anything but if you modify it, then strange things happen Everything will work with the warning light removed as you state. If you want to use LED indicators then you'll need to replace the flasher relay with an electronic unit or resistors. Resistors are horrible and a bit hit and miss, besides the flasher unit will probably cost less than 4 resistors (which may or may not work, at least on first try) If you want the warning light to work as well as the electronic relay you'll need to modify the warning light circuit too. You can try the back to back LED trick, I've never tried that but it should work for the warning light. What I did when replacing the incandescent bulbs with LEDs on both a Sport and a Daytona (the wiring circuits are the same for the V11) was to use Roy's 3rd sketch. You disconnect both wires going to the warning light. Then solder in Diodes the sliver ring on the Diode should point toward the warning light (or away from the exisitng wire). Join then the 2 diodes, or the wires leading from the diodes, together and connect them to the non blocking side of the LED warning light (easy to test that, try one side if it doesn't work try the other) Make a direct connection to earth on the other side of the LED. Roy's 3rd diagram shows it in diagram form which is easier to understand. This just came up on a similar post https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22088-turn-indicators-aspire-to-4way-flashers/ My LED dash on the Daytona (I should have cleaned it up a little before making the video)

Lipstick on a Pig? no I don't think so. For me it's not about the weight saving but the suitability of the material for the job and the fact that they will still be looking exactly as new in 50 years unlike the std passive plated ones. SS is a poor fastener material and only really applicable to boats and structures where weathering ability is foremost. I've never seen an SS fastener used on an aircraft in 45 years or a racing motorcycle for that matter. I've seen manufacturers such as Ducati use them for cylinder stud at one time and they always broke to the point that I think there was a recall for them. Horrible stuff for a fastener that needs to stretch to maintain tension. Ok for nuts though. With using Ti stuff you spend the money and swap out fasteners and label the std stuff and where it was used and if you ever sell the bike then spent a few hours putting the std fasteners back on and re use the Ti stuff on the next bike. I actually re blacked mine when I had the plates off for painting. I couldn't get the right head in M10 Ti bolts at the time so left them standard. Ciao

I thoroughly enjoyed his book Sapiens - A Brief History of Humankind. Although it was a weighty tome and not at all brief.

Most likely docc. says "total amount needed" 0.870li -- that would make it 435ml per side. idk maybe start with 400 and then measure? who has a stat on this?

Ordered material today. It should be here by the end of the week or early next week.

or ... "Docc is about 170 soaking wet" I'm not sure which quote wins the day

welcome Paul, and wife... to the forum and to the "raid". Hope you can make it, this time or next. You've landed in a piece of America that'll make you wonder if the Creator of the Earth had motorcycle riding in mind.

A South'n Spine Raid would be a great introduction to the roads!

I purchased this bike 13 years ago from Ken Johnson at Atlas Cycle in Tulsa, Oklahoma just before Ken retired and sold the business. Ken told me that it had been on display at the shop for many years. The bike hadn't been licensed for the road since 1977. All of the tinware retains its original paint. The frame and other black bits were re-painted, and the rusty hardware was cadmium plated. I tore the bike down, ordered a Gliardoni cylinder set and for the next 12 years the bike was in boxes. Last year I got serious about finishing it. Today I finished the wiring. I installed one of Greg Bender's fabulous wiring harnesses. I also installed his slick "relay solution" panel. Everything worked flawlessly. This was a very rewarding project!

I'm not sure if you have solved this yet or not. Its caused by LED blinkers that draw next to no current and an idiot light that draws as much I came across this sketch I had done for another owner The type 194 lamp reference is to my favourite LED replacement for the Spine frame and EV idiot lights. (I can't recall if I still needed the diodes) I have some pictures of that if anyone is interested, because LEDs last forever I throw away the sockets and glue lamps in place. BTW all 12 Volt LEDs have a resistor or current limiter in series, we just don't bother showing it. Headlights for instance only need about 9 Volts, the rest is gravy, it gets no brighter.

Docc is right (again). You need an electronic flasher [21] which will flash the indicator lights irrespective of current draw from the lamps. I did this, and found another problem. The instrument panel [6] turn signal light is connected to both left & right indicator light circuits, so if you have all four indicators fitted with LED lamps, all four lamps will flash when you indicate left or right turn. That [6] indicator provides a path to ground via the side opposite the side you selected. The fix is to replace the little incandescent bulb in the [6] panel with a facing pair of LEDS, with a common ground. Until I follow my own advice, I have only LEDs in the front indicators, same as Docc's bike. Note that I left out a wire in the diagram below. The red wire should go from the connector to the RH indicator lights.

Hi, JKV11! Yes, the resistance of the LED are not great enough for the flasher to function correctly. You may have results changing to an electronic "flasher" unit designed for the task. Others have added resistors or diodes to the circuit. I found that only using the rear signal units, only, lets my Sport function normally while retaining the front incandescent bulbs.