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MartyNZ

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MartyNZ last won the day on May 31

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About MartyNZ

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  • My bikes
    V11 Sport 2003
  • Location
    New Zealand

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  1. Try searching "tank strap rubber". There is a local company over here that makes EPDM extruded sections in many sizes. https://www.rubbermark.co.nz/product/tank-strap/ Let me know if I can help with ordering some.
  2. My bike had bullet connectors on those two yellow wires, and after they melted and fused, I cut them off, slid on some heat shrink sleeve, fitted crimp connectors, applied DC4 dielectric grease (any grease is better than nothing) , and shrunk the heat shrink sleeve so the grease squeezed out each end. The joints have been trouble free ever since. The wiring is in a hostile environment with tire spray, and heat/cool cycles. You will need to cut the crimps if you want to remove the engine or alternator stator in the future, but the yellow wires were much too long so that would be no problem. The reason the connectors melted was because of resistance in the connector caused by corrosion in the joint. Water, salt, oxygen, make the connection corrode, so the resistance goes up. Joules law says heat in a connection equals current squared times resistance. Say 10 amps through 2 ohms gives 200 watts of heat. 10x10x2=200W. That's more than enough to melt the connectors. We often see the same in the 30 amp fuse melting. Clean and sealed connectors can last, if water and oxygen are excluded.
  3. MartyNZ

    uni

    I've got a swivel adjustable grease thing that you can borrow. It's not great, but works.
  4. Ha! That's what Lorde was singing about. "That green light, I want it". https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18925-what-do-you-listen-to-share-your-favs/&do=findComment&comment=239743 But seriously, I think Lucky Phil is right.
  5. As well as getting relays failing, you can get poor pin retention, and/or pushed back sockets in the relay bases. See Kiwi_Roy's advice on fixing the relay bases. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857
  6. MartyNZ

    Shop stand needed

    I made my own copy of the factory stand, but I am out of town for two weeks. When I get back I can send you a sketch if you want it. I copied Cash1000's homemade stand, but added wheels and painted it red.
  7. MartyNZ

    stator

    WMV11_Alternator&Reg.pdf
  8. A nice looking Lario for sale in NZ, just up the road from me. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-2268517827.htm?rsqid=06d6bf4805ad4edeb3b42dd92705feba-001 I see that a commenter suggested that "GN250 valves, with an easy mod to the collet-area, solves any problems with valves dropping through pistons, cheap as chips".
  9. I had the same problem. You need to replace the indicator bulb in the dash panel with a pair of green LEDs back to back, and wire a ground to the back. Otherwise all the indicators will find a ground though that little bulb to the other half of the circuit. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20690-led-blinkers-lr-blinking-at-the-same-time/&do=findComment&comment=238063
  10. MartyNZ

    Calm nervs

    It looks like you have cornered the Omron relay market. There can't be any left in the world now apart from in your workshop. How many bikes are you maintaining?
  11. I expect that you still need the ECU and 2 coils for ignition, unless you somehow fit a distributor system. I always thought that EFI was a great way to avoid the "Guzzi Wave" where a rider tries to shake the cramp out of his right hand after hours of pulling against big carb return springs.
  12. Yes, like the French brand bicycle tires I recently bought, made in Malaysia, shipped to New Zealand, from a Spanish retail store.
  13. Ball sockets Mercedes Benz P/N A0009930461, and Volvo P/N 946703 both work. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19266-throttle-body-balance-rod-repair/&do=findComment&comment=208046
  14. I don't have a specific answer for you, but I have had good results doing general cleaning/lubrication of switchgear and connectors, and most important is KiwiRoy's relay base repair. I opened up the handlebar switchgear, cleaned, and lubed using automotive electrical switch grease: Lubriplate DS-ES. Dirt and moisture in switches does bad things. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/DS-ES,-1-75-OZ-TUBE/ KiwiRoy's relay base repair has helped 2 bikes over here. I have found poor spade connector tension the base, and also pushed back base connectors. I put some foam plastic tape wound between the relays to limit movement from vibration. So far, so good. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857 Some might call this the wild flailing method of maintenance, but sometimes it works.
  15. My air bleed screws are both fully closed.
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