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MartyNZ last won the day on December 13 2020

MartyNZ had the most liked content!

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About MartyNZ

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  • My bikes
    V11 Sport 2003
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    New Zealand

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  1. I'm still happy with the Shorai battery in my bike. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19799-pc545-still-the-way-to-go/&do=findComment&comment=247107
  2. You're right. And so is he to tell you to use it. Or CAIG DeoxIT. Any dielectric is a very good insulator. But as a grease, like "bulb grease", Permatex dielectric grease, CRC dielectric grease, or "DuPont Molycote 4", the grease is easily pushed aside to let metal to metal electrical contact for terminals, plugs, bulbs etc. It stops oxygen and water from tarnishing the contact metals, so connections last better. It won't fix bad connections, (mechanical scraping does that, or unplug/repluging) but it will preserve good connections. This is what it is designed for. Vaseline does a similar
  3. Have you tried this place? https://woodcraft-cfm.com/collections/clipons-spare-parts
  4. Here's some pictures of the mounts on my bike. You can see a bit of paint blistering where I ground some clearance on the mounts for something nearby. Excuse the grime. I've always wondered what Docc does to keep his bike looking so nice? Maybe he can share the secret
  5. I walked into a HD dealership today by mistake. It was disguised as a CanAm dealership. I got out ok, but had to stare at a nearby Ducati 998 for a while until I felt better.
  6. Wow, that's a nuisance. I have a pair of bevel boxes apart at the moment, and noticed that the crown wheel and bearing inner race are pressed onto the shaft/output spline. I even thought about separating the crown wheel off one shaft to fit to another shaft with an unworn output spline, thinking it may avoid the tricky job of shimming and setting backlash. But no. Anyway for your problem. Bevel boxes in earlier Guzzis have a ring of big bolts that indicate high loads in the joint that failed on your shaft. Bearing retainer or epoxy may not make a strong enough bond. Brazing may work if yo
  7. I had a leak like that, and found that the two recessed nuts in the tank had pulled out a bit. I filed across the plastic base a tiny bit (0.5mm) to make sure that the o-ring was being clamped properly. Seemed to work for me.
  8. Here is a video of a V11 going from Christchurch to Akaroa in New Zealand. This is a popular trip around here This seems to be the guy's first ride on a Guzzi, and he has some charming commentary about the bike. https://youtu.be/E3us8tjJRTU And here is my bike at a bay near Akaroa
  9. There is a post about repair of those Titanium mufflers here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/13524-repairing-a-ti-can/
  10. Hello Simone, There are some BIN files available for the 15M at https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/21701-ecu-bin-maps/ If you cannot download them, send me a personal message, and I will email them to you. I can't find a 15RC BIN, but there are people who may help. See discussions: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/16359-california-vintage/page/6/&tab=comments#elControls_251108_menu https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/22035-ecu-limited-by-stock-o2/ DD fitted a 15M in place of a 15RC and with Meinolf's BIN, he
  11. Keep in mind that all battery types have poorer performance when cold. https://www.power-sonic.com/blog/batteries/lithium-vs-lead-acid-batteries/
  12. Peter, it seems that you did a good job of removing the bearing. I went through the same pain. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19514-encyclopedia-of-compatible-parts/page/2/&tab=comments#elControls_216691_menu
  13. A design philosophy to consider is to assist thermo-syphon effects. If both pump flow and "hot oil rising, cool oil falling effect" go in the same direction, then flow is better. I believe that the hot supply should go into the cooler at the top, and cold return out the bottom, just like a car coolant radiator.
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