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MartyNZ last won the day on March 15

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About MartyNZ

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    V11 Sport 2003
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    New Zealand

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  1. When the gearbox is in neutral, the switch plunger goes into a shallow dish in the lower cam wheel. I'd check that you don't have too thin a seal under the switch. If so, the plunger can't extend enough to ground the circuit. When in neutral, try unwinding the switch one flat at a time, and if the light comes on, then you need a thicker seal washer. Of course then you need to be sure that the light goes out when in all 6 gears.
  2. Remember that there are two hollow dowels that locate the plate against the gearbox housing, so the plate cannot move sideways. The dowels are tight, which adds to the difficulty. The plate must pull straight away from the case by repeated jiggling after the bond line is released. Heat may help soften whatever is holding it. BTW, it is best if you can be certain that the bike is in either neutral or 1st before removing the plate. If you choose neutral, mark the cam wheel alignment at adjacent teeth. There's already marks for first gear.
  3. Jason, I put a computer hard drive magnet on the oil filter of my Toyota Hilux pickup. It stayed in place till the next oil change, when I opened the filter can to look. I could see the outline of the magnet on the inside of the filter can. Just a dark outline that disappeared as soon as I touched it. So the magnet was collecting steel particles from the oil, but I don't know if it has any real world benefit. It certainly can't do any harm on an external filter, but I'd be reluctant to put one inside the sump of my bike.
  4. It is difficult to measure resistance of LED lamps & incandescent bulbs. Incandescent bulb resistance depends on temperature, and will be very low if it is not glowing. LEDs generally have infinite resistance in reverse connection, and will only begin to allow you to measure forward resistance above a certain voltage. That's why some multimeters have a dedicated diode test function. The electrical difference between LED lamps & incandescent bulbs is mostly about current draw. LEDs have other advantages too, but lets stick to current. If you hook 12 volts to a 25 watt incande
  5. 16mm is 5/8 inches, so you may find a local US brake shop or HD dealer who can help you. You would need to measure everything first, as there are suggestions that both 15.8 & 16mm diameters were in the Laverda Brembo range. I had a clutch master cylinder that had internal leakage. It was caused by a tiny rubber granule from the deteriorating reservoir hose getting into the MC. It got between the little brass washer and end of the piston bobbin that acts as a non-return valve. This allowed slight leakage so the lever could be pulled slowly to the bar without keeping the clutch released
  6. A few years ago I bought a "Rebuild kit 12mm master cylinders $32" from Moto International. But they have now closed. It had a Brembo kit part number on it, but I can't look for it until next week. Not much help, am I? Oh wait, that was a clutch master cylinder I rebuilt. I suspect that the brake master cylinder is 11mm, but you should check. https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_112&products_id=2649 https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?products_id=296#prettyPhoto A great source of information on Brembo parts is here.
  7. Oh, yes, you're right. It needs an added ground to work. Here is a previous post about this: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20690-led-blinkers-lr-blinking-at-the-same-time/&do=findComment&comment=238063
  8. LED lamps draw much less current than incandescent bulbs. This is mostly a good thing, but there are 2 downsides. The original flasher unit blinks according to current draw, so it needs to be replaced. The pilot light on the instrument panel is now a significant current draw, and so the unselected side lamps get a ground connection through the pilot light. To get you flashers working properly you need to: 1. Change the flasher unit from a current driven type to an electronic flasher. That way you get a steady flasher rate. 2. Either fit a diode on either side of the pilot lamp,
  9. MartyNZ


    I'm looking to improve the rear shock on my bike. It has a well worn Sachs-Boge unit. I may be able to get an old 1100 Sport i White Power unit (pictured) that has never been used. It was removed from a new bike in 1998. It is the same length so it looks like it could fit. Is it any better than the Sachs-Boge unit? It looks good, but the rubber bump stop is cracked. Does this mean that the internal seals are also due for replacement? Are WP units rebuildable?
  10. MartyNZ


    here are some previous posts on rear shock absorbers that you may find helpful. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19555-shocking-rear/&tab=comments#comment-212161 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17903-rear-shock-swap/&tab=comments#comment-190413 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/17262-rear-shock-absorber-crack/&tab=comments#comment-184473 https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/8147-broken-shock-eye/ https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/4246-shock-horror/
  11. Nice bike Chris! But tell me, how does it compare to the Thruxton R? That Triumph I rode seemed to be the most planted and sure-footed bike I've ever been on. It made me think I should upgrade my V11 Sachs/Boge & Marzocchi suspension. Well that, and the occasional nudge from Cash1000.
  12. I believe that cracks in the intake rubbers are bad. The V11 is sensitive to air leaks, and you should renew those cracked parts soon, even if this is not the cause of your problem. You could test if the cracks are causing air leaks by spraying the rubbers with starting fluid (diethyl ether/propane) while the engine is running. If speed increases, then you have a leak. Be careful if you try this, I don't want to see a picture of your bike in flames. You could smear sealant over the cracks as a temporary repair.
  13. It looks like a great system, I'm looking forward to pictures of it installed. A comment on pipe size: as exhaust gasses travel out, three changes happen. 1.The pulses smooth out slightly as they expand into a larger volume. 2. The gasses cool down due to both expansion and heat loss radiating out of the system. 3. In a constant diameter pipe, the gas flow speed slows due to effects 1 & 2. This explains why motorcycles with two headers leading into one muffler (eg Griso) do not suffer any power loss caused by exhaust system restriction. Bigger pipes are less r
  14. I see that you have already ordered the bearing set, but for anyone else thinking of checking their own RH side bearing, it is made up of standard parts that may be cheaper to buy from your local bearing shop. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19514-encyclopedia-of-compatible-parts/&do=findComment&comment=216691
  15. There are pictures of a bevel box in bits here: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/15908-rear-drive-seal/&do=findComment&comment=231729
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