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MartyNZ last won the day on May 31

MartyNZ had the most liked content!

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About MartyNZ

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  • My bikes
    V11 Sport 2003
  • Location
    New Zealand

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  1. Ha! That's what Lorde was singing about. "That green light, I want it". https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/18925-what-do-you-listen-to-share-your-favs/&do=findComment&comment=239743 But seriously, I think Lucky Phil is right.
  2. As well as getting relays failing, you can get poor pin retention, and/or pushed back sockets in the relay bases. See Kiwi_Roy's advice on fixing the relay bases. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857
  3. MartyNZ

    Shop stand needed

    I made my own copy of the factory stand, but I am out of town for two weeks. When I get back I can send you a sketch if you want it. I copied Cash1000's homemade stand, but added wheels and painted it red.
  4. MartyNZ


  5. A nice looking Lario for sale in NZ, just up the road from me. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/motorbikes/classic-vintage/auction-2268517827.htm?rsqid=06d6bf4805ad4edeb3b42dd92705feba-001 I see that a commenter suggested that "GN250 valves, with an easy mod to the collet-area, solves any problems with valves dropping through pistons, cheap as chips".
  6. I had the same problem. You need to replace the indicator bulb in the dash panel with a pair of green LEDs back to back, and wire a ground to the back. Otherwise all the indicators will find a ground though that little bulb to the other half of the circuit. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20690-led-blinkers-lr-blinking-at-the-same-time/&do=findComment&comment=238063
  7. MartyNZ

    Calm nervs

    It looks like you have cornered the Omron relay market. There can't be any left in the world now apart from in your workshop. How many bikes are you maintaining?
  8. I expect that you still need the ECU and 2 coils for ignition, unless you somehow fit a distributor system. I always thought that EFI was a great way to avoid the "Guzzi Wave" where a rider tries to shake the cramp out of his right hand after hours of pulling against big carb return springs.
  9. Yes, like the French brand bicycle tires I recently bought, made in Malaysia, shipped to New Zealand, from a Spanish retail store.
  10. Ball sockets Mercedes Benz P/N A0009930461, and Volvo P/N 946703 both work. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19266-throttle-body-balance-rod-repair/&do=findComment&comment=208046
  11. I don't have a specific answer for you, but I have had good results doing general cleaning/lubrication of switchgear and connectors, and most important is KiwiRoy's relay base repair. I opened up the handlebar switchgear, cleaned, and lubed using automotive electrical switch grease: Lubriplate DS-ES. Dirt and moisture in switches does bad things. https://www.lubriplate.com/Products/Grease/Multi-Purpose-Greases/DS-ES/DS-ES/DS-ES,-1-75-OZ-TUBE/ KiwiRoy's relay base repair has helped 2 bikes over here. I have found poor spade connector tension the base, and also pushed back base connectors. I put some foam plastic tape wound between the relays to limit movement from vibration. So far, so good. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/20534-relay-base-repair/&do=findComment&comment=172857 Some might call this the wild flailing method of maintenance, but sometimes it works.
  12. My air bleed screws are both fully closed.
  13. Are the bar end weights still there? They help damp handlebar vibrations. So do mirrors.
  14. I have a box of helicoils to do the job if you are stuck. Not as good as Timesert, but still work ok. And you can have them NOW if that is important.
  15. The first subject is current drain. You have some good suggestions above already. If you haven't found the leak yet, you need to keep disconnecting things until you do. 20 milliamps is the sort of leakage current you can get across wet and dirty deposits, such as salt spray and road grime on the back of an unprotected starter. Or a switch filled with water. Secondly, for the burned ground wire, the file I attached shows a circuit diagram. It shows one of the two ground leads that should both be in good order. Note that this lead has three connections: regulator, engine/gearbox, & battery. 2.5 sq mm is a good size cable. You may know it as 13 or 14 AWG. Kiwi_Roy has previously made a good suggestion about using an aluminium strap as a bonding lead between the regulator and engine..
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