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luhbo last won the day on September 24

luhbo had the most liked content!

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About luhbo

  • Rank
    "I live here"

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  • My bikes
    v11 sport 2000
  • Location
    Coburg, Germany

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  • Interests
    Oboe, Guzzi, 1:12-Dogfighting

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  1. LEDs get dim when they get too hot. Efficient cooling of high output LEDs is a rather tricky job and divides Osram from the China cheapos for instance. So your bulb obviously was a China cheapo, running the single LEDs way too hot. That's no problem when it was five USD, question is how good are the 200,- USD units coming from China in the same container
  2. It's not a big thing. Keep the contacts clean, let the cover open, maybe replace the fuse from time to time. Works perfectly for me. Or, more action, disassemble the fuse holder and from the downside solder a 30 Amp fuse to the correct cables. Then, in case this fuse should unexpectedly fail resp. burn you could still plug in a spare one from above and ride on. BTW, putting in two 15A in parallel is not a good idea.
  3. The pegs are lower and the scratchers are one inch long, still I bet you won't bring them down enough to make street contact
  4. ...paint it black. I think black looks better. (who's bike is that?) This is the factory version. Nicer then Stucchi and often in carbon anyway
  5. The ECU does a complete compensating of height and temperatures.
  6. I own some Triumph 2-strokes from the early 50ies and it's really an amazing thing to watch them slowly idle and hear nothing but in- and output noises. No gears, no valves, no clutch, nothing. Maybe a faint hum of the primary chain, that's all.
  7. Gossip says that Guzzi wasn't too keen on bringing this engine on the road. Seems as if they knew that the design was a bit tricky.
  8. luhbo

    My New V11 Greenie!

    It's all the same, yes. Rake and trail get changed. But there's no easy good or bad here, it depends on what you do with your bike. Some say the KR tends to wave at around 150km/h, that's 90 miles/h. This might not be that big problem in the States, if you live here and take the highways/Autobahn this might be something different and you might think about raising the front. If you live in the mountains and know highways only from other people's stories you may want your bike to steer even quicker as it already does and rising the back in this case would be a good idea. Still lighter wheels would rather be what you want, but that's a bit expensive. Long story short: in my opinion the V11 "factory version" is a very good overall compromise which only needs tuning to bring it to factory specs. Adjust everything so that it meets the values given in the manual and you wouldn't want very much more. Otherwise you have the wrong bike anyway (power, speed, weight, electronics, media-related presence and won comparisons, silly titles etc. etc. ...) Should you still be unhappy with the V11 - try to get a ride on one of the 'legendary' Tontis. You will see what 'goes like on rails' really meant. You had to take this literally. Really, jumping from the V11 to my LM3 is dangerous. The first bend always is a really big surprise!
  9. luhbo

    My New V11 Greenie!

    That's correct, of course. You probably won't find any shabby tyres nowadays. So, saying Avons weren't tyres was a bit overboard, sure. But even when bad tyres now are history it's still amazing how much different products can affect one's riding experience. I know a guy who changes his' every 3000km. It's hard to talk with him about good or bad ones. His' are always new and perfectly round etc. 3000 km for him means two seasons, I make min. 9000 in one. Obviously priorities may differ.
  10. Pete, what oil pump is used with these gears? Here they sell these gears for the V11, too, but none of these sets has the pump gear small enough to be fittable with the standard v11 pump. Is it necessary to buy a Centauro pump or do they just relabel Centauro gears as V11's?
  11. luhbo

    My New V11 Greenie!

    My tyre brand preference is Dunlop, because they're even older then Avon, I think Mr Dunlop invented the tyre entirely himself. Beat that! No, in fact I tried these Avon 3Ds mentioned by Mikko as soon as they came on the market, alas was more then unhappy with them. They felt stiff, undecided, especially on wet roads they left me totaly on my own. This was so already when new and it just got worse. They acceptably performed on hot days only and on hot tarmac. Acceptably. The Dunlop RoadSmart III are my actual favorit because they are predictable and quick and stable right from the first meters (practically) and they keep this nice attitude over the whole distance, 9000km this is. I just feel safe on them, in every weather. About the rear shock: I had mine reworked, a different spring and an adjustable pretensioner was added. Sorry, got no details about the spring. The shop owner, a former technician from Corte&Cosso, once a name like Oehlins in the cross business, said that these ZF/Sachs shocks are of good quality and need only minor modifications to perform really well. I'm quite satisfied with this mods. Don't overtighten the rear mounting bolt (it has a safety nut, you won't loose it) and keep the eylet greased (a little WD40 from time to time) to prevent the inner steel bushings from rusting and the eyelet will last forever (as its owner, of course). The original spring was a bit stiff for single use. I think the new one is softer, even when it's shorter because of the pretensioner While you ask for suspension details: I like my bike as soft as possible (starting always from soft/open) and want the riding height with enough sag (I need 20mm additional preload in the forks for that, btw). In my eyes sag is the most important thing for relaxed road holding, especially at the rear end. Years ago riding height and sag/preload was good for a longer discussion here. Was a good thread IIRC. And sorry now for highjacking the 'My New Greeny' thread
  12. luhbo

    My New V11 Greenie!

    Couple of suggestions from my side: Get rid of Shinko, buy tyres. Avon, too, aren't tyres btw. (unless you're doing American highways only) Check the regulator for a solid ground connection. Measure voltage between the reg housing and an engine bolt with the engine running (because of the lazy red light). Don't touch the hot headers when doing this. Add an additional cable if necessary. Check the fork stops. A fork touching the tank is not a fuel problem, usually that is a crash damage. Don't change the fork height, don't lower the triple clamps. The KR (Greeny) is short framed. Lowering would negatively affect stability and ground clearance (side stand and cans). Depending on your weight the front already sits too low anyway. Don't buy progressive front springs or special cartridges. The springs are useless, right so any cartridges or special valves. The V11 came sufficiently equipped for everydays' leisure use right from the factory. In its days it was rather advanced in fact. Don't be too afraid of tank swelling or actual gas qualities. Over here we have 10% ethanol fuel as well but no one talks about swollen tanks.
  13. Fairing is noisy. But it protects the instruments.
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