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luhbo last won the day on April 5 2018

luhbo had the most liked content!

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About luhbo

  • Rank
    "I live here"

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  • My bikes
    v11 sport 2000
  • Location
    Coburg, Germany

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  • Interests
    Oboe, Guzzi, 1:12-Dogfighting

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  1. These were two of those 90 degree ends. Only chance for them to get to the sump I can think of was at the assembly line. Pistons and cylinders still were in pristine condition.
  2. Measure them. M3 should be nearly 3mm. The reading was ok? Calis look the same but give halve the output IIRC
  3. So, coming home from a week entry level hiking in Switzerland I found the recently ordered phase sensor at my door. While I was so sure it would finally cure the heavy stumbling and missfiring which the bike had developed over the last 4 weeks - it did not. Also I have to correct what I wrote about the Hall sensor. While it's true that Hall sensors are prone to ageing and that they're sensitive to heat, it is not true that the sensor here is of this type. Instead it's just a plain cheap inductive device. Hall sensors always have three contacts, inductive ones sometimes too. On the picture you can see the coil holder with coil and core, the cable ends and the magnet. The sensor shown above most probably was still good, allthough the magnetism of the replacement is remarkably stronger (will it collect any debris even quicker now?). For the positive side: the inductive type should be rather robust, no ageing electronics inside. The negative one: at this point I still had no solution for the problems. In fact, as soon as the engine had warmed up, from 3000 upwards the tach needle again started waving, with the engine again producing the same enervating bucking as before. The ECU at 3000 clearly got kicked out of sync. Long story short: the problem were the cheap silicone connectors on the inner spark plugs which I had installed also 4 weeks ago. As the outer ones (this engine has dual plugs) have the standard 5kOhm connectors, electrically/theoretically (or v/v) this should have worked. That it obviously did not might be due to the fact that these shitty aftermarket caps are so cheaply designed that they don't securely contact the plug. The resulting firing then induces enough noise into the signal cabel to screw the ECU. Theoretically. Anyway, solid connectors now and all is fine.
  4. Here's a pic of what I found in the sump of my engine in 2009. Not in the mesh, though. Looked it up: the ends of what is called "gudgeon pin retainer".
  5. I'd have to look it up now, had to be at home for that. There's a lot of plumbing and drilled channels in all directions down there, galleries you call them. Look for their plugs. They're drilled horizontally as well as vertically. Next time you remove the sump look for them.
  6. In my sump I found parts of a piston bolt securing spring (hope you know what I mean). Can't say how it got there, probably at the factory. Anyhow, a steel part 2.5 by 1mm getting to the pump is a certain show stopper. That's what this screen is for.
  7. Great, it has a main stand. Those come handy for tyre changing. Wish I had a main stand, too.
  8. When I have such problems on my bike, what happens every 5 years or so, it's usually a bad ground, caused by either worn or greasy brushes. Remove the metal cap at the back of the starter and check the length of the brushes. You will also see whether the mags are broken or not. If they are broken you'll see a lot of small magnet particles/pieces between and around the brushes. Hold the starter button, ask your friend to pull in the clutch, then give the metal cap a slight knock (while it's still on the starter), using a 12/13 spanner or the like. Should the starter engage the moment you kick it you can be sure it's the above mentioned ground problem.
  9. Written on my Odyssey ( as on probably every single one sold the last 20+ years) is 13,8V charging voltage for floating use. If you want to be nice to your battery you better keep the voltage in this range. If your 14.9 are real, then something's wrong with your charging circuit. Only for those who drained theirs (in spec) it's below 14.8V, no inrush current limit. Exide claims at least 40A/14.8V in case the battery shall fully recover from a deep discharge. If you take this serious you better don't drain it that deep (10 and less). 40x15=600W is a lot, maybe a charger for lorry batteries could come somewhat close.
  10. P/S to ECU to tach. Wasn't it this thread where I gave a link to Cliff Jefferies' site, holding better and especially detailed information for such topics? Ed.: It's been your other one. It's MyEcu.biz. Worth a reading.
  11. No, that's not normal. That's why I asked. Check the phase sensor. You'll probably find it mounted with way to much distance to the tooth wheel. I recently found this on two engines, both probably as they came from the factory. I removed a 1.5mm shim and changed the 0.5 one to a 0.8mm (two were mounted, so it was 2 mm). Now I have it sitting with 0.5mm clearance - and that cured a lot. At least it's driveable again. It's a Hall sensor, this type is ageing. When new it obviously works also with a gap that big, after nearly 20 years now it doesn't. The interesting part is why especially at 3000 the problem becomes so obvious. Anyhow, check the gap and better get a new sensor. And report your findings please I forgot: I tried several different maps. Would have been better to watch the tach needle earlier and think about what it wanted to tell me.
  12. What happened to the misleading and jumping tach needle? The bike's still running fine, also when hot?
  13. It's a simple job, agreed. That doesn't mean it's going by itself. It's about the gains in this game. Chain and tensioner are rock solid, easily making 200.000 plus. Not without wear, but still doing their jobs.
  14. These parts are that cheap. Once they were "proudly made in USA" by CTS, a competitor of where I go daily. I think some years ago I already did post a link to their site. They sold it as a product meant for "leisure articles" like lawn mowers and the like. 80.000 miles on a big V-Twin definitely is beyond its designed life time.
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