docc

Reference to the previous thread and replies: While the failed angle drive is usually the one at the gearbox, remember there is an angle drive on the back of the speedometer, as well.

https://www.donohuefuneralhome.com/obituaries/john-wittner

The beautiful motoitaliane "Dr John's Moto Guzzi" book arrived today. So many detailed images of the genesis of the SpineFrame Moto Guzzi. Special bonus: back of the dust cover. One more delectable Ettore Gambioli art piece . . .

Springs are rated for the weight that will compress them a specified distance. My Öhlins spring ends with "90". This turns out to indicate 90N/mm (about 514 pounds per inch). So your "100" or the "130" may be the "rate" (N/mm). I could not find your numbers at the Wilburs (AUS) site, but they invite inquiry: https://wilbers.com.au/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=862

The Wilburs should be worth retaining if the preload adjustment can be sorted. That is no cheap aftermarket shock . . . I replaced my original Sachs after seven years 49,000 miles/ 79.000 km with the last Öhlins MG127 remote preload unit known to be available at the time (2007). This was part of a strategy to set up the suspension to my weight and style which included spring selection both front and rear. The outcome was exquisite and has served me exceptionally well to this day.

I have my audilogist custom mold these earplugs, but they are attenuaters only, no monitors. I tried in helmet communication, but found it distracting. I only use visual cues for navigation anyway, and won't even answer my phone when I am off the bike . . . edit: The only downsides I have found are once having to reshape the outer surfaces for clearance in a particularly tight fitting helmet, and discovering they filter out high pitch mechanical noises. Like when my other bike ate up its cam and rockers over time and I didn't hear it.

Wow, that has maximum preload dialed in? I would call that ungood. As in: spring way too soft. No markings on it anywhere?

The original Sachs has a white spring, light gold anodized body, and blue anodized adjusters. Its remote is black with a blue anodized adjuster. One of the two 2001 V11 you are looking at likely has an aftermarket shock . . .

OEM PARTS Original compound front and rear brake pads GU01654630 front (2 pair required) GU27654610 rear ( 1 pair) REPLACEMENT PARTS Brembo Source: OPP Racing , Washington state, USA/ BC, CAN Brembo Part# 107670810 fronts https://www.oppracing.com/product_display/30979-brembo-oe-brake-pad-set-ferit-id-450ff- organic- for-206800xx-209230xx-caliper-shape-m-107670810/ Brembo Part# 107268625 rear https://www.oppracing.com/product_display/30967-brembo-oe-brake-pad-set-ferit-id-450ff-organic-pad-kit-p32f-7mm-thick-107268625/ Other Comments: This is a reliable Brembo parts dealer. Most Moto Guzzi dealers or Guzzi suppliers have superseded the original brake pads with substitutes of various manufacturers and compounds from GF to SHH. Rotor damage can be an issue. These are the original FF compound "black backing" pads matched to our rotors from Brembo .

There is absolutely nothing wrong with this thinking. Simply include coffee as @audiomick suggests!

The only unhappy people I have ever encountered on V11 did not keep them long . . .

If the front brake hand lever does not light the brake light, does the rear brake foot lever?

I wondered who might wade into these similar words . . . Balaclava is the face covering named for the appearance of Crimean War helmets at the Battle of Balaclava, the site of present day Yalta in the Ukraine on the Black Sea. Baklava being a Middle Eastern sweet pastry. Robbing banks with baklava is sure to make friends!

"Y" in the tenth place is year 2000, putting your "112170" just barely into range. The tenth character "X" (1999) versus "Y" (2000) makes all the difference . . .

@OuijiVeck, did you "X" out your 8th, 9th, and 10th characters, or are they all actually "X?" If so, your V11 is a 1999 and precedes the affected range. What is the month-year build date inscribed on the metal tag on the left of the headstock? Affected range of gearbox recall, 2000 -2001: ----------YM111929 (YM=2000, serial # = 929th V11 manufactured that year) ---> through ---------1M114435 (1M= 2001, through the 4,435th V11 that year [probably all of them]).

At the risk of overposting, I could not let this one get away . . .

At about 25,000 miles, mySport started finding false neutrals, especially in the 1-2-3/3-2-1 shifts (traversing switchbacks - perhaps the WORST time to find a neutral). This was at the end of my warranty, but before the recall, so my issue was solved with a complete gearbox at the time. I would think shift behavior would be an indicator of the parts wearing excessively before a complete failure, but that is just conjectural . . . Skip, I have always used th blue Lightweight in the gearbox and switched away from the red Heavy in the reardrive after my ten year battle with reardrive leaks. I found the red Heavy impossible to judge fill volume and suspect I overfilled for quite a long time, possibly burdening the seals. Other factors contributed to reardrive struggles, no doubt.

Seems the issue with contacting Piaggio is they only report on more recent recalls and not all the way back to the V11. Shifting into third is decidedly "busy" in the 6speeder. I have often wondered what is different from the other gears. When changing to the Chuck-Scud Superspring, also perform the LuckyPhil Shift Improvement. Some have also reported improved shift action with RedLine Shockproof (I prefer the Lightweight).

This performance was a week ago in Chicago? I recognize some of these "boys" . . .

In Tennessee (perhaps in other States), sales tax is added when the vehicle is registered in the new State based upon the sales amount on the Bill of Sale.

Also:

Hmm, properly adjusted the "High Idle Lever" should have no effect on throttle action. Interference with throttle rotation could be a number of other factors. Perhaps worth further investigation, @mikev . . . .

Registration here in Tennessee, USA, is on the month anniversary of the first registration of the vehicle with the current owner, usually the purchase date. This spatters my registrations rather randomly through the year. While it spreads the payments out, it also makes it easy to miss a renewal. One of the games we play when a bunch of bikes gather is to look for whose registration has dropped. It is always somebody. Also, here in Tennessee, a 25 year old vehicle is eligible for a one time, permanent "antique" registration. Special use restrictions apply (not supposed to be commuting on a daily basis etc). Next year, mySport is eligible.

The caps on the later V11 are NGK 5,000 Ohm resisters. The early V11 are Champion. I get mine from a scooter shop in England. Because they can be damaged (along with the sparkplug) in even a light tip-over, I carry spares in the monkey paw trap.