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2003 Carryover Sport configuration: 2002 "Long Frame" with early "Short Tank" (chin pad/external fuel pump/filter) and white-face Veglia gauges driven by the "angle drives." Wrinkly, crinkly, fragile black engine/driveline paint. 40mm forks. No front exhaust crossover pipe or "Long Tank" (internal pump/filter), no "tube driven" black-face ITI/hUR instruments, no 43m forks, no left/right turn indicators without a "battery" light. No tight "satin" black driveline paint. (all common to true&actual 2003 and later V11). These are purely 2002 specification V11 that were sold as 2003 "transition" models . . .

For comparison, @Kostarika's fine 2004 Sport. This is the configuration of a "late model" Sport (not a "carry over") . . . LongFrame; long tank/no chin pad/ internal pump & filter; satin black engine paint/ black face ITI/hUR gauges; 43mm forks; front exhaust crossover pipe: The question arises, are there 2003 Sport in this, later, configuration? Or are all 2003 Sport in the 2002 "carry over" configuration?

I found the introduction of this "Sport Naked " in the 2001 sales brochure that also introduced the 2002 LeMans (LongFrame/ShortTank):

Thank you, @chamberlin , for posting this original sales brochure! "Schnörkellos in der Linienführung" >no frills in the lines<

G'day mate It's the Compression or left side one that needs it... Cheers Guzzler

great idea docc. The whole 'carryover thing' is especially confusing to new owners. My first query would be, did the '03 (factory) designation start with production dates or the vin frame stamp. Since it seems clear they started '03 bikes before running out of '02 parts, there may be different differences in the carryovers. ie; fork tube size or bubbling block paint. Having a carryover is not a problem, I actually prefer some of the earlier items. If I was an owner I'd just go down the list of '03 upgrades and verify which ones ended up on my bike. Knowing all the upgrades is the key.

Exactly. I can only think of a couple people who could say how it is possible to visually verify the status of this recall work. Guys that actually performed these recalls back in 2004-2005 . . . @LeMaynes has shown us what we do not want . . . And the "hose couplings":

I got my replacement stereo set up today. I'm even going to see if I can get the old receiver fixed or some good will since it was still under warranty. The folks a SVS sent me a new $250 amp for my sub for good will, only a $30 handling fee for YT. I gotta recommend SVS to anyone looking for speakers on the internet. I've been pretty sick the last few weeks and it's great getting some tunes. The set up it always a pain, one PM to Denon got the last thing worked out. It sounds really good too. Music 100%.

@stewgnu shared this stunning image of his nicely modded Carryover Sport . . . @Guzzimax's Carryover Sport nicely compared to his beautiful silver RedFrame clearly showing the longer frame in front of the short tank: @motortouring's 2002 ("Pre-Carryover?) Sport: @LaGrasta's 2003 Carryover Sport . . .

Marzocchi, yes. @bbolesaz I did not. I had to use that technique on a recent fork rebuild on my 1982 GL500. For the V11, I merely laid the fork on the bench, and it easily came out using an allen-wrench and an extension for leverage.

I spoke to the owner a few times, asked him if he could give me the VIN to check on recall. He never knew anything about it and sent it to me. Piaggio said no recall work was on record. Front and rear tires were original and bike wasn't run since 2006. He cleaned injectors and tank, put new battery in and started it up. He said he has had it on the the road and it runs fine. I asked about the tires and he said they're fine, good rubber and he doesnt go fast. I asked whether he changed the oil and he said it has less than 5k on it...wow! I'm a bit of an oil and tire nut so I was blown away by his answers. Each to his own I guess. The bike was purchased by him at an estate sale. I would have made the run to get it but not without recall being done. Four hour drive. And in spite of it having good rubber and oil, I would have brought the trailer...lol.

Important model variation reference topic: and also this:

@bbolesaz see #11 thread post, where I confirm, yes to a DIY repair. In retrospect, it's rather easy, no special tools required.

Amazing how these V11 respond to suspension tuning. So glad to hear it's much improved! Again, have a look at Verdone's description and graph of damping adjustment. You will see why setting the "clicks" halfway sets the damping at 75%. He also explains why the settings are more "sensitive" at the closed (most damping) end and least effect at the opposite end of the adjustability.

Yeah, righty - tighty more dampening. Lefty - loosey less dampening.

Thanks fella's It's kinda hard to know which way is up as no bloody markings on the screws or whatever so no indication other than looking at the screw being above or below the nut! On my compression side the screw is @ 8 clicks or halfway (of16) and screw is about flush with the top... The Rebound is 12 clicks (of 18) from full in and just below the nut. So, I'm assuming Comp is middle of the road and Rebound is approx 3 x clicks from middle of the road.. But the gist of it is screw wound in (below /the nut) is + and more damping whilst screw wound out (above the nut) is - and less damping ? Really appreciate your input! As I mentioned though this is how they came back to me and the difference between old and new is quite incredible, much more FEEL from the front very little dive either and just bloody composed! I think Peter has also backed off the preload of the shock when he serviced it as well and front and back feel more in tune with each other now. As it was the Hyperpro 460 shock had a lot of preload and back end probably too Hard whilst the progressive springs and no compression damping in front meant it was too soft! Add in the fact that the suspension was 45,000 kays old and overdue a service... It's no wonder it feels BETTER ha ha, but it is seriously good now! Rapt Cheers Guzzler

Exactly the purpose of this thread and those like it. The variations are knowable. I am working on a plan to add a third image to the tank/ steering head views, above, showing the short tank/long (black) frame of 2002 and the 2003 Carryover Sport. edit: Done. Thank you, @MartyNZ Also, I am planning to create a pinned topic specifically for the 2003 Carryover Sport. edit: Done . . .

Doesn't it simply come down to: If your 2003 Sport has a short/ chin-pad tank (external pump/filter) and white face instruments, you should order parts from the 2002 Parts Catalog . . .

What docc said, clockwise / turned in is more dampening. More dampening is slowing down movement of the fork in that direction, so the compression adjuster turned all the way in would be maximum compression dampening and the slowest compression of the fork it can do. The rebound adjuster turned all the way in would be maximum rebound dampening, meaning the rebound of the forks would be as slow as possible. Normally the reference point is the adjuster screwed all the way in as that is a positive stop where the needle hits the seat. When you turn the adjuster out, counter-clockwise, there is often not a positive stop as the needle is simply moving away from the seat. So where it stops is not always identical on one unit to another. It should be, but maybe it isn't. But turned all the way in, all the way clockwise, will always be the same because in that direction it stops when the needle hits the seat. Usually on the street you want as little dampening as you need to control suspension motion. At least that is my take. But if I paid someone who knows more than I do to re-valve the forks I would start with the adjusters where ever they put them. I would turn them all the way in, counting how many clicks out they are, and then put them back to that. From there I would adjust them in or out as required for best results. You could then use that info to have further adjustments made to the valving. If you had to turn the compression adjuster in to get the desired ride quality that would mean the valving maybe needs to be a little firmer, for example. @LaGrasta, just so you know, without blocking off the bypass holes as @guzzlersaid he had done you may find the adjuster has very little impact on compression dampening except in the last inch or so of travel (when the piston has gone by the bypass holes). By blocking off the bypass holes you force more oil to pass through either the valving in the piston or the adjuster. Without blocking off the bypass holes the fork oil is pretty much free to bypass the valving and the adjuster until the piston goes past the bypass holes, which is in about the last inch of suspension travel. The forks can work much better with one or more of those bypass holes blocked off. This seems to be mainly the earlier 40mm forks. I don't think the later 43mm forks have the same issue. But it is hard to say for sure, as has been mentioned you never know which parts are on a given Guzzi.

Marchozzi, from the owner's manual, 3 clicks anti-clockwise from fully seated is the stock setting, as I understand it.

Turn in = Increase Damping ("stiffer", so to speak). Also, consider that the clicks are likely not linear, as in half the clicks sets the damping at halfway. More likely half clicks in = 3/4 damping. Peter Verdone comments on this and shows a graph about halfway down on this page: http://www.peterverdone.com/archive/lowspeed.htm

You don't make this one then we're having a SpineRaid between the lifts in your shop!

Some are dead, some are not able to be located. What blows me away is all the present owners I talk to didn't have a clue about this. Are the majority of V11 owners whose bikes fall under this campaign just gambling? I dont want a bike for my living room, I want to ride it.

Its good to here someone who uses a V11 all weathers with no problems-finish excepted. Mine has only done 13000, thought it was 8500 but just discovered in the paper work that came with the bike that it had a speedo change under warranty at 4800, so the bike I bought with 5500 on the clock 8 weeks ago has actualy done near double that, but what the hell 10000 in 5 years is still pretty low. The rocker boxes and alternator cover had been painted red-fairly badly and the front of the sump and engine cases top of gearbox and bevel boxes are looking rough for their age. I've repainted the rocker covers red as I quite liked them that way but put the alternator cover back to silver. I'll get round to the others in due course. As I said in the last post all the lines and cables and wiring is safe, so you shouild have no problems in the short term, I'm just a born fiddler and like things to look right as well as work. I have been a bit surprised at my V11s thirst, but then it also has mistrals and the fueling set up to match I will just have to live with it and enjoy the noise they make. Cheers Gary