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Well built 1000ccm 76 LM, it's welcome in my yard any time [emoji16]. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/mcy/d/canton-1996-moto-guzzi-sport-1100/7631035791.html Seems like a fair price on an older sport. I don't know the guy.

It's not just the condition of the battery. It doesn't fit right. It is mounted with the battery poles to the left of the bike, with some "creative" wiring to make the connections. All safe, but I don't like it much. Any excuse to get it back to original.

Using my son's windows computer I was able to get Guzzidiag to connect to my V11 this morning. CO trim was the number I most wanted to see and it was set to 0. Bike runs fine and idles fine so I didn't mess with any settings. The ECU top line had info but the bottom two lines were all 000's. Temp and RPM read well. RPM was about 100 less than what was displayed on the tach. Also, I didn't download any drivers. Only installed Guzzidiag_VO.60

You can get a cheap (Guzzi content) carbon pile load tester from places like Harbor Freight. It will tell you instantly whether the the battery can take a load or not. No guesswork, no unnecessary new battery being bought..

Goes away when you pull in the clutch lever? Loud and disturbing noise? That's normal. It's the clutch. It rattles when it is not engaged.

Have you read all the posts on this site that use the words "Startus Interuptus"?

You already know you need a good battery. Testing with a bad battery is moot. With a poor source voltage anything down stream will always be suspect, because it doesn't have its requirements met. Good battery. Then test. No searches.

I think the intake ducts of carburetors really go well on an engine. I miss that, since fuel injection rules the modern world. Don't you agree? those carburetors completely entice the appearance.

No, mate. Haven't got three weeks spare time.... Seriously, I'm familiar with the concept. It also affected various CARC models, even if the specific cause and cure wasn't exactly the same. I want to see for myself exactly where the Volts are going missing, but the knowledge that the power supply to the starter solenoid is marginal from the factory is in the front of my mind. Yes, that is true. By the way, with "searching" I meant "testing". On general principles, changing the battery first would be the right thing to do, no question. It is almost 100% certainly past its use by date. Why I might do some testing with it: I might try and charge it, and see if it takes a charge at all, and if it does, how long it holds it and how much power it can really deliver. Probably none. That is just curiosity a the behaviour of a dying battery. I would prefer to be not using a brand new battery for a long period of time for testing, possibly with multiple activations of the starter. If the old one can limp through that, I'd rather use it. That is not intended as advice for anyone else, or an argument against changing a battery that is known to be bad, or even just suspect. New battery is the way to go. However, although I am not an electrician, I understand what the multimeter is telling me (mostly...), and enough about the basics to draw usable conclusions even from a half flat battery. The dead battery, in the worst case, perhaps wont be enough to turn the starter, but it will suffice to show me high resistance contacts, for instance.

Relays front to back: 1. START (5 Pin Relay) 2. LIGHTS (4 Pin Relay. 5 Pin OK) 3. NEUTRAL/SIDESTAND (4 Pin Relay. 5 Pin OK) 4. ECU (4 Pin Relay. 5 Pin OK) 5. FUEL/COIL/INJECTION (4 Pin Relay. 5 Pin OK)

That looks original with some accessories 2004 V11 Sport

So I finally found my way over to the largest posting on this forum. After a week of working on my bike, this fixes everything. Keep up the good work.

Thinking that this will be the official debut of my new Guardia d’Onore V85. Bill