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Today I took the front end off to have a look at the steering head bearings. Not that there were any signs of trouble, but I wanted to see how much grease was in there. Turns out adding a bit more wasn't such a bad idea. Bright idea of the day (or week, or month...) obvious really, to hold it in place whilst putting it back together. But I was a bit chuffed that I thought of it in the heat of the moment and all by myself, and how well it worked. I poked around and looked at a couple of other things as well. All part of getting to know the bike, and being able to contemplate longer trips without worrying too much if the wheels are about to fall off.

Temp fix done. Battery charging again. It was the stator connection that fried Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

To close this topic, I am able to confirm that my V11's fuel of choice is NOT US 87 Octane + up to 10% ethANOL.... I filled up with regular gas (87 Octanes ((Ron+Mon)/2) and while it runs fine, if you drop a gear and turn the throttle, you can clearly hear the knocks. Conclusion: yes, in an emergency situation, you can run 87 Octanes. As long as you stay gentle on the gas. By the way, Ethanol free gas is 87 Octanes in Texas. @PJPR01 not enough Octanes. In today's 111 deg F (felt temperature), the engine was misfiring a lot. 87 or 93 Octanes does not make any difference. Even at low rpm, up to 3500, plenty of misfires. The engine only run smoothly from 4000 onward.

sure, Canon 6D EF100-400, ISO 250, 340mm, f5.6, 1/320s 16 mp 5045x3257 4.9MB. THE STORY IS. All the restoration creds go to my friend John U.. stripped to the bone and rebuilt with a lot of new parts (Gilardoni kit of course) in 2003.. He’s clearing out the Guzzi stuff and keeping 2 Corvettes. I bought it earlier this year but was busy and too hot to work on it till now. Pretty much all I did was put the tank back on and connected with some new gas and battery she struggled for a moment then fired up. Carbs were clean but not in sync and I got stuck figuring out a stuck choke which took longer than it should have but last time I owned a bike with carbs was my first Convert around the late 90’s. Since then only FI , a V11 Lemans, Bassa, Uly, and Hyperstrada. The Buell and Ducati were monstrously fast. I’m in the slow lane now with drum brakes etc.. Sunday rider.. when I want torq or speed I take my Tesla. Then the dogs can come too.

Yea docc thats why I always actually use "Guzzi part" not just Guzzi before the numbers in fact. Forgot the "part" bit. I must say parts are getting harder and harder to come by these days. New parts are thin on the ground and used parts are more affordable but there's a lot of "suspect" parts and sellers out there and shipping is making the costs exorbitant. You should see the cost and speed of availability of RE parts direct from India. The parts are dirt cheap and the service is the best I've ever experienced. Hows $300US for a brand new painted fuel tank shipped to your door in under 10 days sound. Phil Phil

I have a used replacement a member here provided. Unfortunately, it came from a parts bike that had corrosion issues and I struggled to get the Zerk to seal. All good, now: 6 years; 28,000 miles/ 45.000 km

I said this on another thread, but, still . . . Drop. Dead. Gorgeous.

Not a V11 but today I rode my Ambo around a few blocks, fresh from a 6 year nap.

Hi all! Been lurking here about 18 months. About as long as I’ve had my (new to me) V11. The information on this forum has been invaluable to me for getting my hands dirty with maintenance stuff on my bike. Now it seems I need some advice. I needed tires / tyres, I figured it was a simple enough chore. I didn’t bother reading up on it here (lesson learned). That is until my 2nd set of rear wheel bearings in as many months. So I did some research and found the post on ever shrinking rear wheel bearing spacer. Excellent! I thought, a solution. Until I tried to get one. There do not seems to be any new ones available in the US and lead time to get one is 6 f’ing weeks. the bike: 2003 V11 sport all stock (as far as I can tell) 17k miles on the OD Which brings me to my question: do any of you amazing Moto Guzzi aficionados have, know where I can get, or have a known fabricator for this rear wheel spacer also verifying some info - OEM part number is GU01634000 yes? thanks in advance!

That ("web search") works using just the numerals. My first seven results are a water gauging station on the Shenandoah River in Virginia, USA, but #8 is the part at Harper. Of course, the fact that I already searched and found that part at Harper caused the search engine to hand it back to me like it knew what I was looking for already. There is some matter of tautology in this web search business.

There is only one way to know the required bearing spacer length. Measure it. As already pointed out the factory has supplied 3 different lengths at different times so how do you know 113 is the right answer for your wheel. When you remove the first wheel bearing use a 6"vernia to depth measure between the old bearing race ( provided it isn't totally shagged) and the wheel bearing recess shoulder and thats the spacer length you need plus, .1 to .2mm exactly. Any less than the base measurement and you'll have bearing issues any more than the baseline plus .2mm and you should be fine. A little longer is fine a little shorter is not. Years ago I used some glued on shims to adjust the length of mine as it was only .5 or so short and I couldn't machine up a new spacer at that time. Phil

I always google Guzzi and the p/n without the GU. Don't know if I'm missing out on some sources but I've always got more than I can deal with that way. Phil

113mm is correct. IIRC, there were some very early spacers 110mm. So, all along, I thought my 112mm spacer was "fine." Not so! Take it from a guy that learned this the hard way! [edit: Plus: those SKF totally put me on that rollback 310 miles from home. I'll never run anything but: KOYO 6304 2RS C3 Deep Groove Ball Bearings 20x52x 5mm for that application . . .

You leave off the GU when searching for or ordering Guzzi parts. Just use the numerics. Phil

Welldone, @audiomick! Here it is at Harper (Missouri, USA), but seriously, call Curtis to verify availability: https://harpermoto.com/products/spacer-inner-a-01634000?_pos=1&_psq=01634000&_ss=e&_v=1.0

these guys are new to me. Goose. The local NPR station plays Blues on weekend.

at Stein-Dinse: https://www.stein-dinse.com/en/item-2-1021625-01634000-.html from this parts diagramme: https://www.stein-dinse.biz/etkataloge/etkataloge.php?l=de&h=MG&m=222&t=5455#a177240 at Wendel: https://wendelmotorraeder.de/hinterrad-v11-03-04-corsa-ex-30_3006_300602_30060204_3006020410_300602041024.html part no. 6 and a parts list at Guzzitek.org : https://guzzitek.org/parts_list/gb/1100/V11LM_Nak_RC_Cat_2003_122002_PL.pdf part no. 6 on page 116 So it looks like your part number is correct. Incidentally, I didn't put in three links to be a smart-arse, but rather to give an idea where one can go to check on part numbers. PS: docc beat me to it, but I worked so hard on this I'm posting it anyway... PPS: I read somewhere about spacers to fill out the missing length on the spacer. Don't know if it was here or somewhere else. That might be an option, if you can figure out how much too short yours is. Apparently a bit too long is not as bad as a bit too short. Having said that, I can imagine that an additional short spacer in there would be an absolute pain to install.

I don't recognize that connector as original to the V11 stator (?) An electrical failure like that can be hell on downstream components (regulator and relays). Be aware of/ monitor for sequelae . . . [edit: it also occurs to me to check the attachment of the two yellow wires to the stator under the alternator cover for breakage. Probably not "on the road", but when home.]

Well, I don't know if anyone ever discovered a source for a replacement Grimeca clutch slave cylinder for our V11, or a rebuild kit/seals, either . . . I see my clutch failure showed up on Page 3. No, it wasn't the slave cylinder. The "safety washer" had failed on the gearbox input hub and the hub was spinning off, and back onto, the input shaft. At times, this would foul the clutch disengagement, then it would spin in and the problem would disappear. Then return. Short story, here (that contains a link to the "Sticking Clutch" thread):

Thanks mate Think I'll keep using 95 here even though it's $2.05 a litre...ouch.

Drop. Dead. Gorgeous.

When will #49 be loved? I had to sell it, just was so damn uncomfortable on it. It's beauty is amazing! Hope it went to a good home!

Day 1 of 3 day 600+ mile tour in the Catskill Mountains Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

did you sand your assembly marks off ?

Look on the head for exact specs. The bolts are 12.x plus Loctite Medium. Also look up how to torque them - I think it was 40Nm or so, but I'm guessing here. I reused mine btw. Properly torqued they aren't stretched. Don't mind the colour of your plates, for me they're looking good. Loose friction plates are garbage. You may weld a lever to one of them and use it for blocking the input wheel.

I recall that thread and have tried to re-find it a couple times. I think the member is located in Europe and that he only had to have a small bit machined off the clutch end of the pushrod in order to fit into a slightly smaller push-button. I also think there is not "correct part" to be sourced - all because the 5-speed and 6-speed used different size buttons in the clutches. I also think it was for a Rosso Mandello. Parts list: Ram 5-speed clutch Throwout bearing (since you're there) Shop to modify a pushrod (I have a spare pushrod that I will donate to the cause) RAM 6-speed input hub (or take-off from Scura/Tenni/Rosso Mandello) If you could re-find that thread or document this yourself, it would save future owners of unconverted single-plate bikes a lot of trouble - and provide a less-expensive, better shifting option for other high-mileage bikes facing 100% clutch part replacement.

Andy's flywheel looks pretty good.

Maybe just a very small amount of wear on the input shaft spline. .010 maybe. Other wise everything appears good.

maybe ?

Roadside repairs, so much fun Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk

That's still cheaper than here. The converts to about € 1.22. According to here https://www.benzinpreis.de/preise-deutschland.phtml we're at €1,88 at the moment. That works out to $ 3.14 AUD.