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Yes that's correct, 3 measured 93.5 ohm and the 2 defectives measured 0.1 and 0.01 ohm. No wonder they blow fuses.

After the resistance test on 85 & 86, 1 of 3 Durakool I used was defective which I believe was on #5 fuel pump location. I also tested the 2 I did not use and 1 is also defective so that make it 2 out of 5 are defective. That sums up the quality of these Durakool relays and I simply would not trust the 3 that pass the "resistance test".

Buy a dye check kit to be sure. Cheap to buy and worth it. Phil

In practical terms, no. EFI versions need a different fuel tap with larger connection threads and also a return fitting for the pressure regulator which the carb bikes don't have. The fuel level sensor types are different as well depending on the model. Carb bikes have float sensor and EFI bikes thermistor so connection flange differs. Anything is possible if you throw enough money at it and can find an "expert at tank welding and fabricating but as I said not "practically" possible. Phil

@HadaDaytona listen carefully to Phil's advice, and then ignore as much of it as you choose. Phil knows what he is talking about, not doubt. On the other hand, it is a great project. The substance of the Centauro is good, and deserves to look like a sports bike. If you have the money and the perseverance, go for it.

There's an old saying that comes to mind "just because you can doesn't mean you should" These type of projects just about always end up going nowhere simply because the time it takes to try and assemble parts takes so long and the modifications so labour costly the person naturally runs out of enthusiasm. Remember the person here that was going to build the Titanium framed version of my bike complete with a Dynotec built engine? Never eventuated, as I knew it wouldn't because it just gets too hard and too expensive esp when you need to pay people for some of the specialised work. Better to pick a more achievable project maybe based on a Griso or something. I'd never attempt to build my bike again now if I needed to start sourcing parts etc. Phil

I can add that it is possible to adapt a V11 Sport / Lemans rear subframe and seat / bodywork, but if it is anything like my Daytona with a V11 Sport seat / subframe on it you will need to fab up some sort of adapter as while the frames are very similar they may not be identical. Going with V11 Sport / Lemans parts may be easier to source as there are more V11 Sports / Lemans out there then most other Guzzi's. You might even be able to adapt a tank and fairing from a V11 Lemans to your project.

I really like the KO2's, they have fantastic grip in all situations and good ride quality, and am looking forward to the KO3's. My big question is, do the KO3's run undersize the same way the KO2's do? I have run KO2's in a 37" size, but since they really were just over 35" in diameter it was more of a 35" tire on steroids. Where as the current 37" tires I have on our Jeep, tires that do not have the grip and ride quality of the KO2's, are much closer to the rated size of 37". Most tires are smaller then their rated size, but the BFG KO2's were always more smaller then other tires. For example, a KO2 rated as 35" in diameter would typically be closer to 33" in actual measured diameter. I am curious if the KO3's are similar in that, do they run small the same way the KO2's do? Or are they truer to size? This would possibly affect whether I go with the same 37" size or swap down to a 35" size. As with you, I am dealing with 17" wheels so the tires have a proper sidewall. Short sidewalls and offroad don't mix well.

Very, very few of the RedFrame V11 Sports had the trans-frame plate support. Perhaps, only the very earliest Sports in Italy and Germany (1999?). The vulnerable crack point is typically the left, upper mounting boss for the frame cross bolt. @Lucky Phil posted a thorough investigation/ remediation of this. Many of us have retrofitted the frame support plate on the early RedFrame. Perhaps @LowRyter's man still has some in stock in Oklahoma (?) Be aware of the numerous leak points in the V11 motor-to-gearbox ("bellhousing") while they are easy to get to . . .

He said it had a leaky rear main seal. That's all I got... Trans went to Dave without the rear cover Rear cover turns up in a box here with no output shaft seal Dave had me inspect the cover for cracks or damage, I found none It's all a mystery. Of course I'll give it a thorough inspection, reseal, clutch slave and seal as well as a more thorough inspection for cover damage. Dave suggested something around the output seal area? What is the 'Notorious Red Frame Crack'? Were these the ones without the upper trans-to-frame support?

Phil, I was told you were the guy to answer my questions. Question #1. If I procure a 1100 Sport fuel tank, does it matter if it is off a carbureted or a FI model ? My screen saver is a black Dr John Daytona. When I open my computer 🫶 something always comes over me. I once read a Sport Bike article comparing three expensive European bikes to a Honda 600cc. The premise was why not spend half as much for the Honda and get better performance and handling. In the end the writer said, because when you get up in the morning in your boxers and kick open the garage door with your cup of coffee in hand you say “ Damn that’s a good looking bike”! I am prepared to bail on this project and have a Centauro restoration. I however find the coffee experience looking in the garage at a Daytona amazing. Wish me luck 🤞in my procurement of parts.

does original owner have a recollection of why it needed 'sending out'? If it's not the notorious red frame 'crack' or some other seriousness .. you'll be smiling in no time. I have a spring if Scud is out.

Spoke with Dave Blue today. Just to put it to rest, he's a great guy and under no suspicion of inadequacy, all a misunderstanding on the part of the previous owner- who is also a decent guy and under no aspersions. He still has the transmission, in the same condition it came to him in. I found the rear cover in question in a box of parts that came with the bike, so they'll eventually be reunited. Dave wasn't even certain why it was sent to him as the recall had been done previously. I suppose I'll need a shift return spring- was that @Chuck who has them? Gotta learn a whole new box now lol

Discussed the specifics of their R/R with them, also when wired directly to the battery. Their R/R only switches the +12v connection on when it see an AC voltage, thereby preventing mA draw with the bike off. I also asked them if they could lengten the + and - wires (originally 57cm) to 120cm with the connectors separate. "Absolutely no problem, just let us known in the comments when you order". So I ordered and received a sent confirmation only about 3 hours later. I received the regulator, with 120cm of wire on it, nicely sleeved all the way. Drilled new holes in the mounting bracket (and gave it a lick of paint) & tested the bike: shockingly stable charge voltages. Problem solved.

I got confused because you used miles instead of km as the unit of distance... unless of course The Netherlands have replaced the metric system with the Imperial one since I left Europe?

..as you can see, it's a real chick magnet.

Well its been a busy time with other stuff unfortunately such as my lathe breaking down and requiring motor disassembly and centrifugal switch work and a new start capacitor. Its still a work in progress as I await the new capacitor.The rocker shims arrived and a new learning in the form of a rocker arm with end faces that aren't machined perpendicular with the pivot axis so getting the end float right is a matter of using the smallest gap. Its too awkward to hold in the lathe to machine the faces and I dont think it will be an issue so I'll leave it as is. The new Oil pressure spring also arrived so it was onto testing the crack pressure with that fitted. It wasnt a successful outcome I'm afraid. The new spring is around 2 mm longer than the old spring but its still not enough to get me the required 70psi crack pressure. Even if I shim the spring to a silly amount its still not enough. So after time spent lapping the valve and getting the sealing faces as perfect as they are ever going to be I'm here to say that there is no way 70 psi of oil pressure is possible with this spring. I figure that the valve will need a minimum of 6mm of stroke. The spring with 18mm of preload will accomplish that but all I can achieve is 55psi crack pressure. The new std spring is in the 10.8lb of seat pressure at 18 mm of preload. So either I accept 55 psi or look for a heavier spring. So here's one for the more knowledgeable than I. I have tested the new springs at 0.6lbs/mm ( I know mixed parameters) so at 18mm of preload I'll have a seat pressure of 10.8 lbs. My calculation for spring pressure required is as follows. Assuming I need 70psi, for crack pressure and assuming I had 1 sq inch of piston/valve area then Id need a spring that provides 70lbs of seat force. What I actually have is a valve that presents 95.4 sq/mm to the oil supply which is 14.8% the area of 1 sq/in (which is 645.16 sq/mm) so 14.8% of 70 pounds is 10.36 pounds of seat pressure required. The new spring is giving 10.8lbs of seat pressure and I'm nowhere near the 70psi crack pressure. Any Ideas? Is my spring rationale calculation lacking? Spring tester. New spring Old spring New spring Old spring Ciao

Thanks Chuck, I tend to agree, it certainly feels more correct and wouldn't be as noisy either I don't think. I just gave Brad Black a call and he was of the same mind so that's 3 to zip so I'll go with that. Brad also gave me the number of a local business that makes shims to order which is also a big help. I'll submit and order for a quote from them and see what the damage is. None of my Ducati gearbox shims are quite right unfortunately, nor are my stash of general shims. Ciao

Hi Kevin, I have 3 different sets of heads and and 2 sets of valve gear plus brand new and second hand inlet cams and a couple of used exhaust cams. Unfortunately I dont have knowledge of the mileage traveled by these engines so its hard for me to draw a conclusion about wear rates. I had never seen so much guide wear as the original set of heads I have either. One exhaust cam is scuffed a little and the other has minor wear and one set of used lifters I have seem usable and one set trashed. In general the cams seem to survive better than the lifters. Both are chilled cast iron material I believe. Having said that I think in general the valve guide wear and lifter wear rates could be better. You read about some owners that have trashed lifters at 20,000 klms and others that are still going at 100,000. The guide wear is down to the valves I believe mainly. If you use plasma nitrided micro polished valves then the guide wear will be ok although I did investigate the rocker geometry a few years ago and wasn't too impressed. Hard to correct that though. I was toying with the idea of roller lifters and cams like a later Grisso motor with the mini pushrods and roller tips on the rockers as well but then you would need to have shim adjustment of the clearances and it got too hard. In the end I admitted to myself that my engine isn't going to be doing a lot of miles and I already had a set of new std valves so thats what I'm using. If I had to buy new valves I'd go with the afore mentioned ones for sure and the guide wear will be largely eliminated. The other thing I was considering was drilling a lube hole in each cam faces on the opening ramp to put the oil directly onto the cam lobe face to help with the lifter wear. I'm going to put together a nice set of std heads and down the track I might go all out on a second set with all or some of my ideas. Oil pressure? well in my view 43 psi is probably enough in the grand scheme of things for a road engine. By that I mean that it shouldn't cause a failure. Heads dont need as much oil supply as you might think and many engines over the years have required oil feed to the heads be restricted for racing. Honda RC30's are an example of an engine that put too much oil into the heads at the expense of the crank in the early days. That and tight rod clearances. Interestingly I and Chuck in his aero engine are and were having difficulty with the oil pressure relief valve cracking too early. My spring seems to have sagged somewhat and I have a new one on the way. When I receive it I'll let everyone know whether or not that's the issue. The Daytona engine has the biggest oil pump Guzzi fitted to the original type big blocks as well and a taller drive ration. Guzziology did a lot of investigation into all the big block oil pressures, worth a read. The OPR valve could be something to look at in your engine as its easyish to remove. Watch this space to see what I find with the spring and preload and lapping of the valve. Its where the oil supply to the head on the V10 is directed that's probably of more concern to me and could use improving. I think its important with this engine as I mentioned previously that the cam well that the lobes sit in is filled with oil before you attempt to start a fresh engine and the lobes are well lubricated with a cam assembly lube. Ciao

Progressing slowly. Cylinder and pistons fitted along with sundry cam drive bearings and spacers. New tensioner rollers and bearings fitted and seals replaced although it looks like I need to turn the tensioner rollers around for some reason looking at the shop manual images. No idea why it matters as they are dimensionally the same whichever way around they are fitted. All the ring gaps were measured and fine without adjusting. Piston to cylinder clearances were both 0.04mm and cylinder barrel faces given a light lapping on the lapping plate. I'll probably move onto the sump next and leave the heads until last just for the convenience of fitment and having the engine on the bench. A proper engine stand is what I really need. The plan is to have it all together with the exception of the timing cover and oil pump drive so I can spin the pump with a drill and prime the oil system then fit the pump gear and front cover. I expect it to be a bit messy this approach. Ciao Here's my granite surface plate and my lapping plate. I bought these about 20 years at a closing down auction for an engineering shop. Best money I ever spent. If you see some under the same situation snap them up. they come in handy for many things. Way to expensive to buy retail new, well back then they were.