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Just to verify, I took a couple of photos of the back of my headlight when I was in the garage earlier today. Not good pictures, I'm afraid, but I was suprisingly unwilling to take off the fairing just to get a better photo...

I could be totally wrong guys and it's a mod for "startus interuptus" as @audiomick suggests Just when I saw that relay sitting on the bucket it occurred to me that somebody had modified the wiring and I was having difficulty understanding the strange flip flop of Lo & Hi beam illumination in two distinct scenario, especially with the ignition off. Perhaps I'm looking at a diagram for another V11, the one I looked at has the power going through Headlight Relay, Starter Relay and Fuse 5, apart from the switch. So I thought it could be a canditate for modification with a relay and power taken directly from the battery, which would also explain the Lo beam energising with the ignition off. If it was wired direct from the battery and the relay was de-energised for Lo Beam then it MIGHT explain it. Depending on the scheme you'd possibly need ignition on to energise the relay so in that case Lo Beam would work but nothing else. However it's mere supposition and more akin to a guess than logic, it was just a suggestion that the wiring needs investigation. I've been wrong before

Unfortunately, the required accident to enforce changes that otherwise were never considered. This is the sadest part of it. Many pilots, allegedly had already avoided similar incidents in the past, with no immediate action. You see, in my company, some of our annual objectives were to report near-miss incident, so they could trigger mitigation measures before they would become accidents. You can see, that in recent years, we have seen several cases of runway intrusions, aircraft hits on tarmac, and traffic issues. I don't see that many happening outside of the USA. Possibly because they are not reported as much? I don't know. But if you are old enough to remember the Tenerife airport disaster in 1977, when two airplanes collided, we don't want to see this happen again. It just did...

This always makes me think about changing the lady partners daily in the summer as I move through the week (Ballabio, Stelvio, 916, CBX, Norton, 500 Turbo, 40 Indian Chief)

Ariete make seals for them https://motociclo.com.au/product/fork-seals-moto-guzzi-9401100-1200-ariete/

@Tennitragic Mate, can you show us a photo of your battery, paying particular attention to the situation around the + terminal? When someone buggerises around with the electrickery, the battery, particulary the plus terminal, generally acquires additional connections. A photo would probably allow some knowlegable member here to further confirm that someone has "improved" the wiring.

That sequence is my understanding of the factory circuit. More likely that whoever wired that headlight relay cocked it up . . .

I got one hangin' on the wall I paid $100 to carbon fiber wrap to find out there is a difference ! Ouch

A thought occurs to me: maybe the mod has more to do with the starter circuit than the lighting. The V11 is prone to what is often referred to as "startus interruptus", i.e. when one presses the starter button, one is rewarded only with a click from the solenoid on the starter motor. The cause is insufficient power to the solenoid to pull it in properly. This is a problem that not only the V11 models suffer from. The common solution is to feed the starter solenoid directly from the battery, i.e. the power feed to the starter relay and from there to the starter solenoid, which is switched by the starter switch, directly from the battery. That is how I solved the problem on my Breva 750 i.e., but it is not that simple on a V11. The starter relay is of the type that has both a normally closed and a normally open contact. In the "resting" position, the normally closed contact feeds power from the ignition switch to the lighting relay, thus holding the lighting relay closed, i.e. "switched on", thereby feeding power through from the battery to the headlight. In the "switched on" position, the normally open contact of the starter relay is now closed, thereby taking the power away from the lighting relay (good plan, the lights go off when the starter is engaged) and feeding it instead to the starter motor. This means, if one were to feed the power to the starter relay directly from the battery, the lights would be one all the time because the starter relay feeds the power to the lighting relay in its "resting" position. Therefore, in order to supply the starter solenoid with power directly from the battery, it is necessary to add another relay for this purpose. There are some threads here on the subject, which one might be able to find by searching "sixth relay" or something like that. So, to cut to the chase, maybe someone has done that modification and mounted the additional relay up near the headlight. I would have tried to integrate it into the row of original relays, not hard with the right parts, but not everyone is as much of a perfectionist as me.

Love 'em or hate 'em, saw the Led Zep movie yesterday. Loved it.

I'd been trying to figure out the rather odd behaviour with the Beams, one working and the other not with ignition on and off and being stumped (but it isn't that difficult to confuse me) IF I'm looking at the correct diagram then the power for the headlight beams are direct from the switch. The switch gets power from the Headlight Relay, this also feeds to the horn, so the horn should work when the beams do. Anyway another BIG IF but first pic, Is it upside down? Is that the headlamp shell? What is that relay next to the shell which has a number of spades attached to it? Could it be that a previous owner has installed a relay mod (makes the beams brighter and takes the load off the switch), by running a feed from the battery? If that relay is utilizing the normallly open and normally closed contacts to power the beams from a direct battery feed, then wierd shit may well occur. The connections to that relay and the fully insulated spade connectors aren't OEM, hence my rather frayed reasoning. I'd also check the connections on these fully insulated spades, anecdotally, I've had rather chequered results with them and they can come loose over time Otherwise just ignore me, as I could well have totally lost the plot

Epic recording and video . . . All great, but for the essence, start at 1:04:28 . . .

Certainly a good move to upgrade to the highest quality High Current micro relays available. Not sure what is available in AUS, but here are the two best available most recently (I hope I get these links right the first time): CIT A11CSQ12VDC1.5R Picker Components PC782-1C-12S-R-X That anything would come on with the ignition switch off casts aspersions on the wiring soldered to the switch. It is not that hard to take out and inspect and is also a known fail point on the V11.

Soft, so soft