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Hello fellow forum members, yes, this Tenni is mine….fortunately I scoured the forum before and post purchase…! Besides a few minor electrical gremlins, I suspected the bike still had the original aluminium flywheel and a magnet from a child’s toy proved perfect to confirm! Again courtesy of the knowledgeable people here! And didn’t ride anywhere except down to see Michael in Bungendore…even this 270km jaunt now sounded risky….phew! Bike is now in good hands to sort!

He’s fortunate because he lost his legs in a road accident and our third party insurance scheme has covered his entire recovery and return to work. The amount of assistance he has received has been outstanding and although nothing is perfect it means that rather than being a lost soul, probably unable to work, he has his own business, working from home, with all the equipment needed to, if not overcome, at least mitigate, his acquired disability. Everyone moans about the cost of our registration and CTP, (Compulsory Third Party.) insurance for vehicles. Well I will never moan again. What better thing than there be than keep people alive and contributing? He’s also an outstanding mechanic. Far better than I ever was.

I recieved the HMB Tensioner today which HMB had assured me would fit directly with no interference problems of the Millepercento tensioner. Enthusiastically I went to work on it, only to discover the same interference issue with the pad and no way to modify the base of the HMB tensioner as the interference is where the pin is attached to a countersunk screw that holds the pivot pin to the base. The HMB tensioner does not fit ($ 248 Cdn for tensioner, shipping and import tax) So I now have two new tensioners on hand, neither which are useful with out removing about 4.5 mm from the entire pad area and in the case of the Millepercento an additonal hole drilled into the lowered pad to accomadate the protruning back side of the pivot pin. The tensioner arm that rubs against the chain and the spring look to be the same dimensions as the original tensioner so I am considering to use those peices of the HMB unit on the original tensioner base. I have advised HMB of the issue and will see if they have any solution. EDIT/posted june 12, 2025: Update. I did not hear anything back from HMB after I advised them that the cam chain tensioner does not fit my 2004 Ballabio. Wanting to take advantage of the riding season I went ahead with using the HMB tensioner wear pad and spring on my original tensioner base. The pad is near identical and the spring as well The HMB spring had a little more resistance than the original, likely because it is new. They look identical. I reassembled the bike, using new metal gasket on timing case, hoping to again have an oil tight bike. Ran the bike, checked spark scatter at idle and the 1750 to 2000 rpm range. Very slightly less scatter but maybe 20% less. Took bike for a test ride. Same issue of popping back into air box at that rpm range whether riding or in my stand. I am now convinced this is not the issue causing misfire / popping into air box. >[moderator note]: subsequent TPS and tuning discussion moved:

Oberon sez ‘Hold my beer!’

For anyone following clutch slave stuff, here's a photo of the Oberon ~2007 slave next to the 2000 OEM.

Just about the time it starts to turn red , you take the gun away and off it comes . I have used one at work and it works better than you can ever imagine.

No, it's not the bleeder. If the slave is off the bike and you activate the clutch, it sweats or weeps a little around the plunger. Very slight, but clearly the o ring(s) are starting to go. There is a little corrosion on the clutch control cylinder and the face of the slave plunger, but very slight, more like discoloration than corrosion. You have to consider, all of these o rings are now pushing 25 years old.

The V11 Owner's manual shows pilot lights were originally 1.2W. The lamps in the back of the Speedo/Tacho are 2.2W. @Kiwi_Roy wrote in some posts about LED substitutes for those incandescent lamps. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/20578-problems-with-dash-lights/#findComment-235855 Note that the "low fuel" light must be an incandescent lamp because the function relies on current draw. Note also that indicator warning lamp must not be an incandescent lamp if you want to fit LED flashers. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/30710-signal-indicators/ LED turn signal conversion problem - Page 3 - Technical Topics - Moto Guzzi V11LeMans.com Forum

Yea been at BH for a weekend when it's snowed, many years ago as a kid. I would never live anywhere where it snowed, I'm just too soft. I whinge like a teenage school girl thats lost her mobile phone when the temp is below about 15 degrees. BTW it's 10.30am and 8.1 here as I type this. Phil EDIT...you got me reminiscing and "I think" I stayed in one of the 3 or 4 houses that backs onto the bush in Staveley Pde. It was 50 years ago.

edit: frankly, your input hub doesn't look that bad to me. Mine is pretty knackered and lends itself to quite a racket . . . (oi - be certain that "safety washer" locks up tight.)

It’s just about to snow 🥶

So impatience wins. This may be the easiest to separate trans I've ever seen. Everything inside looks fab, except for the shift forks which have some humidity warts, but local to them and easily cleaned. The gears, forks, and dogs look *very* lightly used, not a super surprise given what I know of the previous owner. Now on to the stranger danger- This looks like special tools, presses, windowed collars, and heat to me. Anyone? I bet this could come apart fast enough to have Mary Magdalene calling her son for a week.

I fitted RAM clutch to Scura. I used the pushrod receiving cup from the original Scura clutch in the RAM. Original pushrod didn't work w the RAM cup. Worked fine.

Forgot to mention, thats a very nice crane there. Some more details and picks of that would be nice. I'd love a spacious shop as well someday. In the mean time I've retired my 48YO old career long toolbox for something new. Not very stand out, a bit stealth. Biggest drama will be remembering what tools are in what draw.

Good morning from the Isle of Man. Had a scout around through the FAQs but couldn't see the answer to this question. Apologies if I've overlooked it. I need to replace one of the pilot bulbs. eBay shows two options: R284 (2.3w) and R286 (1.2w). I was going to order the 2.3w bulbs but before I did I thought I'd ask if there's a preferred option? LED perhaps? Thanks in advance for your advice. Off to watch the bikes come through Kirk Michael. :-)

It seems the metal parts of the drive were improperly heat treated along with the "sliding dogs." Not sure how to know if the parts have been replaced. Yet, Dave Blue said this one had been done? Let me scare up a copy of the recall and (maybe) a link to the parts kit . . .

By the book, bearing steel shouldn't be heated past about 230*F, but I've never had one fail from overheating it...not even in my stupid acetylene torch youth. Usually they fall off pretty quick if everything's clean. On stuck/rusty fasteners, yeah hotter is gooder.

I did the same on my Scura. Sourced the parts from MG Cycle. It was bolt-in with no modification of any part needed. @JGP contact MG Cycle and talk to them about it. For a while, RAM supplied a kit for both 6-speed and 5-speed. The only difference was that the 6 speed came with a transmission input spline and pushrod to replace the parts from the twin-plate. But the Scura already has those RAM parts, so you can use the 5-speed kit on a Scura or Tenni.

It'll be kind to the gear and race I need off, and I have enough rusty iron ore around to repair that I'll save it back in hours, skinned knuckles, breaking heads and drilling threads.

That is badass!

If I am not mistaken, this looks to be the "flexible hose" /gearbox cushdrive That would have been addressed along with the "sliding dogs" of the gearbox recall. Seems no reason to disassemble this (?)

Well if your clutch still works with that, mine should be ok. I'll have a look at the friction components then decide whether to replace them or not. Getting to that output bearing is going to be an exercise in patience, for sure.

You are certain it is not the bleeder weeping? I had to add a couple wraps of Teflon® tape to mine for that.

I suppose if someone put enough time and energy into it, those o-rings must be available somewhere. Lots of o-rings in the world....My old slave looks fine and I think it still functions properly, but it is starting to "sweat" a little when activated so, it's heading in a southernly direction. It could easily be rebuilt if the o-rings could be matched.

He’s already turned down the rod and says it works just fine!

Thanks Pete I'll take that. Pete did you see the option of using the original ram clutch actuating button in the new clutch a few members have done mentioned in that thread. May be easier than machining the rod. Phil

Well since the probability of me needing it again is lower than a walrus's belly button, maybe I should send it to you. Can you PM your address?

The slave is a bone-simple device with 2 component parts. What I would call the block and the plunger. Within the block is at least 1 very thin seal could be 2. If you put a little compressed air to the hydraulic line inlet the plunger will pop right out. Not too much air, it does not take a lot. If I press on my slave which is part number 01 08 63 30, and built by Grimeca it will slide down into the bore of the block about 3/16" or more. It will extend from the block about a 3/4" or so before it will come free from the block. Not sure if that answers your question. I think the V11 slave cylinders were all the same and not specific to single or multi-plate clutches, but others likely know more than I do on that topic.

The 'Bard of Bugendore'. 😁

But how is his poetry?

Thanks my guy has replaced the seal and I m happily back on the road. Preparing for another trip to Queensland where it is a lot warmer

If there is a color faster than red, it must be silver . . .

Nice! I have my 2003 ST4s for sale now too. Not as sporty as yours, but it is the faster color.

I have to say I’ve installed a ton of those Valtech ‘Blade’ type tensioners over the years and have never had a problem with them. I have heard of the broken spring problem but never a broken blade. I tend to think it might be an installation issue rather than a design problem. Yes, they do exert a higher pressure on the chain, at least initially and this can be heard as they whine quite loudly when new but they soon settle down as the blade ‘Relaxes’. The was I installed them was to take the blade off the pin/base and bolt that on and then install the chain and sprockets before slipping the blade on half way with the pin just engaging the spring and then swing the blade round and pop it into the timing chest before pushing the pin end all the way on to the pin and reinstalling the nut and washer. Make sure the spring fits inside the bolt boss for the timing cover that it passes by. If you miss this and it’s over the boss the timing chest will leak when you tighten it down. It’s easily done.

Thank but unfortunately it is not just the pin but the whole pad area that need to be relieved 4.5 mm and then an additional hole for the pin.

The output bearing, last thing before the shaft splines, needs replacement. To get at it, the shaft has to be pulled out to the rear through the bearing, and for that to happen the spring pack has to come off- which is held in place with a hard-to-get snap ring, and then the spiral gear and bearing race have to come off for the whole thing to slide out. Meh.