Leaderboard

the wonderful wizard of Oz(tralia). Given that I am here often, I thought I'd mention that for the next three weeks I probably wont be. We're flying to Australia tomorrow to visit my family. My last visit was in 2016, and I haven't seen one of my brothers since 2013. Flying in to Brisbane, where a former flatmate of mine lives, the brother I haven't seen since 2013 2 hours south of there. 1400 km down to Canberra to my sister, 450 odd km south of there to my mother and another brother, 1 1/2 hours west of there to my father and another brother, and then 300 odd km south to Melbourne for a couple of days. I'm expecting to cover about 2,500 km in three weeks. I hope it all goes to plan. PS: also my first long trip in a camper van. With my girlfriend. Hope that works, too.

Criticism: one sees a man singing into a square microphone. The first time that I noticed, the gold side is facing the camera. Later on, the black side is facing the camera, and later again the gold side again. The gold side is the front, into which one must sing in order for the microphone to function. If you're going to go to the extent of filming your playback video with microphones to make it look "real", then find out which side of the mic is the front. Or leave out the mics completely and admit that is is only for the video. Idiots....

Found the problem. There was a leak somewhere in the evap system. I pulled the tubes off of the throttle body taps and then plugged the taps. Runs like it should. Need to pull the tank to rid myself of all that crap. When I do that I know I'll get into replacing other stuff too. One thing leads to another...

And whats wrong with the morons doing the sound in movies, seeing a boxer with a screaming 4 cyl for sound, and other vehicles . Cheers Tom.

You should do an Aussie trip yourself docc. Between exchange rates and tariffs we might actually have to pay you to visit

Sounds like y'all had a great Nashville visit! For matters of clarification (Your Moderator's presumed function ), said "Mountain Dew" may or may not refer to the PepsiCo product depicted, although originally formulated by Tennessee bottlers in 1940. The lyrical reference may run deeper (into the surrounding hills and hollers) . . .

This might help someone. (and apologies if it has already been noted) I had carefully set the TPS by the book and the bike (2002 LeMans) suffered from surging when hot and abrupt on/off throttle transition and slight pinking at full throttle. The surging and throttle transition made the bike frustrating to ride. I retested the TPS it was still 160mV with throttle plate closed = not significantly different than where I'd set it last year. I then noticed that when the throttle was pulled open that the first motion was to take up throttle shaft wear. (to check for wear, grab the throttle shaft nut under the throttle body and move it side to side. The right side has more play that the left, perhaps because of the return spring. There are rubber seals on the shafts but may be unable to compensate for the wear or have failed after 23 years.) In one of the TPS discussions KiwiRoy suggested that because the voltage increase with rotation is not linear that the goal of setting the TPS was not so much to achieve precisely 150mV (or 157mV), but to make sure the setting was on the tail of voltage increase. I pictured the voltage increase as a curve similar to exponential growth with 150mV somewhere close to the baseline suggesting that at 150mV the computer can sense the TPS but is not yet altering fuel settings. After setting the TPS the manual states that throttle plate angle should be set to 3-3.5 degrees. I wondered how to do this because I don't have Guzzidiag computer setup, but another post (I forget who posted) stated that throttle plate angle at idle corresponded to 470-480mV. Another post stated that instructions for installing a new mixture map that the idle throttle stop should be set at exactly 475mV. My idle stop was at 311mV so I decided to experiment with changing it. I set the TPS to show about 470mV just as the throttle starts to lift off the idle stop. As the throttle linkage is pulled the first movement takes up play in the worn throttle shaft and the mV increases. All the play is taken up and the throttle starts to open at about 470mV but my TPS reads about 420mV when the spring holds the throttle against the idle stop. (differing amounts of wear should result in different idle stop mV) With the throttle plate fully closed (as in setting by the book) the TPS shows about 220mV. I then balanced throttle bodies side to side. The result is dramatic! There is no hint of surging even at low rpm and low speed and the harsh on/off throttle transition is mostly gone. There is no pinking. It has really improved the bike. Yes, I know there someone has posted a tutorial for replacing throttle shaft bushings. I have even bought new bushings and seals and will get to it eventually, but I am very happy with the way the bike runs now.

Agreed. In this way, you can see what rpm the ECU (map) is seeing, and know what your specific correction value is to what the tachometer displays. The accuracy of my Speedhut conversions has spoiled me, though . . .

We all have spines, in various states of disrepair.

A way to check that which I have often seen mentioned is to spray brake cleaner around the site of the suspected leak with the bike at idle. If the idle speed goes up briefly after spraying, you've probably got a leak.

Always so great to see you guys! It occurs to me that if the bikes showed up, with no Spine Raiders, there would be no Spine Raid. Yet, even if the Spine Raiders showed up with no bikes, it would still be a Spine Raid!

Taking a closer look at the Workshop Manual, the degrees opening of the throttle plate at idle is 3,6º +/- 0,5º (3.1º - 4.1º). The corresponding mV I have written in the margin for this range is 5.10 - 5.38 mV. Pretty sure I got this from Ed Milch very early on. The Workshop Manual states this setting should yield an idle of 1050 +/-50 rpm and that, if it doesn't, to set the TPS to 150mV +/- 15. First of all, that is a ridiculously wide range for the TPS baseline (135 - 165 mV). I ran mySport at the top end of that range back in the early days and it does not run well (thinking, at the time, "I'll just add more fuel by turning up the TPS.") Certainly, the best results indexing the mechanical throttle position to the mapping is to baseline as close to 157mV as possible and balance the throttle bodies at "some" rpm. Accounting for my worn throttle shafts (and bores and plates), I used this (rather intimate) method to hold the throttle plate closed after pressing the bottom of shaft toward the other throttle body, along the axis of the throttle connection rod. Out for a shakedown ride after the throttle body balancing, she seems quite happy with the outcome . . . Idle preference is another matter. Once all tuning parameters are addressed (including setting the CO Fuel Trim, which cannot be overlooked), put your idle wherever you and your V11 are happiest. In these high ambient temperatures (90-95ºF/ 32-35ºC), and owing to my well worn flywheel teeth and gearbox input hub teeth, I prefer my idle toward the 1500 rpm mark; much less rattle at idle, more stable if stuck in traffic, and more oil for cooling, methinks. [Just a quick reminder that the factory tachometers, especially the early white-face Vague-liar are known to read up to 300-500 rpm high. In the event the tach is used to set the idle at 1000 rpm (1050 minus 50), the poor thing is trying to stay alive idling at 500-700 rpm. ]