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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/2025 in all areas

  1. There is often the issue of them doing small jobs. Platers are used to plating mass stuff for the building industry and often struggle with Automotive standards as well. You can be lucky but it'll be cheaper to just replace them when it comes to 8 basic metric fasteners. Also you're better off not pulling those bolts out collectively. You can also by Ti bolts as well for the well healed and weight conscience and the issues with finish will be forever gone. BTW they will be tight and the hex depth is shallow so it's easy to strip the heads out so be prepared for that and take the necessary step to alleviate that. Phil
    3 points
  2. i would think the longer shank (portion w/o threads) would be to maintain caliper halves aligned.
    2 points
  3. The issue with the std cap screw is the length of the thread. The Brembo specific bolts have a longer shank than the std 8x40 cap screw. Of course a grade 5 Titanium bolt is the best option but if you don't like 5 quid for a Brembo specific bolt then I doubt you'd spring for Ti ones. Phil
    2 points
  4. You got that right ! I hate these shallow head socket head and shallow head Torx. It seems like they are "one time use" and that's that. Caterpillar equipment is loaded w/the shallow head Torx and you are lucky to get 75% of them loose w/o stripping the fastener head.
    2 points
  5. If you were really keen, you could pull the bolts out and get them cadmium plated. Or paint the heads of the bolts as Phil suggested. VHT makes caliper paint in a range of colours that is heat and brake fluid resistant.
    2 points
  6. https://www.probolt-australia.com/stainless-steel-brembo-caliper-pinch-bolt-m8x40mm-pack-x2-ssspduc01-2/?sku=SSSPDUC01-2G&srsltid=AfmBOopk-AB4Mo-YYXdnwqhZCyOLUVtL9Z0cLXEEnDZt7ffZUYLhLdBgues&gQT=1 You can also carefully clean the surface of the heads with Scotchbrite and brush on some flat silver paint if you're worried about pennies. Phil
    2 points
  7. I am in no way related to this seller - just bird-dogging what looks like a good deal for a nice V11 for our group: https://www.facebook.com/share/16n7TPqtUE/
    1 point
  8. I have eight bikes, so many to keep running and registered here in California. But I do it successfully, I ride them all. Minimum yearly registration, regardless of age is $175. This inlcudes my two 50cc Scooters! I keep considering selling a few, but truly I want them all, and still use them all. My V11 is absolutely spectacular, even just to look at. I love the form and shape, colors, etc. It's running so fantastic, putting thousands of miles on it since acquiring it, and working out the bugs. What a joy to ride. The only shortcoming is distance; my body aches after a hundred or so miles. I tried talking myself into trading teh V11, my 2004 Kawasaki Concours, and maybe my highly customized 1982 Honda GL500 in for one of the new V85 or watercooled Guzzis. Give up three for one new one that gives me a lot of power, long mile rideability, etc. nah.
    1 point
  9. Aliexpress! So it's you ruining the US economy then
    1 point
  10. If all I had to do in my spare time was tinker in my workshop then I'd have many more vehicles than I now have and I have 5 bikes and 3 cars and I struggle to maintain them all. The major issue with keeping which bike as you get older is weight of the bike. I don't just nonchalantly walk up to the V11 these days and grab it and roll it off the bike lifter where it lives. I need to concentrate on what I'm doing and focus. If that thing starts to fall I won't be saving it and I also won't be lifting it off the ground myself either. I do understand why people like Chuck downsize in qty and size as they get older now. Phil
    1 point
  11. Racebolts are always a lot more expensive than everyone else. You can buy these style bolts cheaper elsewhere but you need to do a bit of hunting them down. I provided the link as one alternative source with a quick search the "deal" is down to you guys.
    1 point
  12. If it’s not breaking free it’s time to pull the gearbox. It’s not going to fix itself. It’ll allow you to fix all the usual crap in the bell housing at the same time and shim the gearbox for good measure.
    1 point
  13. Haven't searched through the full site to see if they have longer shanked ones yet, was just wanting to see people's opinions on them. I replaced the bolts that hold the calipers to the forks a few months back with the correct bolts from Gutsibits, they were roughly £1 each and that is why I was questioning £40
    1 point
  14. I used Duc Monster pegs. The same but with a rubber sleeve. I got got them used on epay
    1 point
  15. I was on a fly and ride home from Maryland when I was taken out by a pickup driving out of a parking lot right in front of me. Thankfully hit him at pretty low speed leaned over to the right and no paint of plastics damaged just some parts. What I'm looking for now is a right side front footpeg. They seem to be total unaobtanium now. Does anyone out there have one they'd be willing to part with? Feel free to PM me if you can help me out. Thanks.
    1 point
  16. Rest easy, @docc that's honest to goodness bona fide patina on that cover. I'm impressed. The Cadillac just looks contrived. What a co-incidence that the patch of paint under the name is intact, and all the rest is rusted away.
    1 point
  17. Tried this a few times today after unfreezing the mechanical ignition advance. My road is a little more than 1/4 mile and about 2/3rds is pretty steep. I tried going up hill with heavy throttle, I can get it to shift to 2nd, but won't go into 3rd. Partial throttle and flat it shifts into 3rd just fine. No luck so far, I gave it about 4 heavy throttle 2nd gear shifts up hill, but it is still stuck. I'll try it again later. I was up shifting and down shifting and getting the rear wheel to hop/skip.
    0 points
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