bbolesaz

The speed bleeders I bought had like a pipe thread compound on the threads. Never had an issue with loosening them.

My tank (which has started to bubble the paint ) only hits the side covers a little bit. The bolt went in and out easily. Thanks for the info on the bolt size.

The MyECU uses a MTP6N60E FET. That FET has an Rds = 0.94 ohm (typ). So, if the ECU fails and leaves it on continuously, the coil current will be 12.7 amps. Of course, in that case, there's no way the engine sparks. Dwell time is typically in the single digit milli-seconds. At 5000 RPM, one revolution takes 12 msec. So the dwell is around 40% or less, leaving the average coil current less than 5 amps. So, it the OP is literally burning up coils, I think he is better off checking the secondary side than the primary.

Stupid garage trolls have hidden my fuel tank bolt. Anyone know the size and thread so I can head over to Ace Hardware?

Well if you want to get technical . . . In the ECU there is usually an ignition coil driver chip. I doesn't have a simple resistor, but controls current with more intelligence looking at voltage waveforms, short detection, overheat detection etc. The on time controls the dwell, i.e. the time it takes to get the magnetic field to maximum before you open the primary.

To burn up the coil (twice !), there must be too much current somewhere. On the secondary side, the resistance in the plug or the cap limits the current. In the old days, the current in the primary side was limited with a "ballast resistor". These days, that function is integrated into the ECU. So, make sure the secondary side has the proper resistance first, then you are left with a highly unlikely failure in the ECU. BTW, the drawing above has the transistor in the wrong place. It is between the coil and ground, inside of the ECU.

I sent a couple of emails to the "correct" addy. Got no response yet.

Install Google Translate

HRC hope you are OK. Guessing there's a cage somewhere with a 17" tire print and maybe a helmet print also.

Aaarrrggg. Not enough weekends !!

So, did the other Lee Carey get a bunch of email about Guzzi tanks? I guess that's why I didn't get a response.

Fred thanks for the info. Hopefully, he kept the form from the early tank and can replicate another. I have emailed him.

That left hand switch cluster is GU01738035. Got mine from Harpers. $232.51

Found it, thanks mucho ! Is there a generic replacement, or do I gotta call Harpers?

Yes, price please. Can he make one for external fuel pump models? I guess you could make a custom plate to hold the petcock, pressure valve and sensor.

I ordered the switch as a replacement from my local multi-line dealer that also carries Guzzi. I can get the part number later.

Thanks coreytrevor. I'll check tonight. Maybe I need better glasses. I know it's there, because the TS flashes, just not reliably.

Thread resurrection, slightly different subject. Where is the flasher unit physically on the bike. I cannot find it.

A little maintenance this weekend. Replaced the left switch cluster, the high beam switch had quit working. The replacement switch has the horn and turn signal buttons in the "correct" place vs. the original (yea!). However, Luigi decided to move the dimple from the original position, so I had to re-drill the handlebar. The bar is butter soft aluminum, so easy peasy. Also replaced the regulator with an Electrosport ESR515. Essentially plug and play, except the plug connectors were very loose. I crimped them out of round a bit so they will stay snug. Added a nice thick ground wire from the other bolt back to the battery. Used star washers under the ring terminals at the regulator. A couple of gas tank Q's for the collective wisdom - I couldn't get the manual petcock to completely close, the tank kept dripping gas. Is there a rubber washer or something that needs to be replaced? Also, under the tank, there's 2 fittings that look like brake bleeder screws. Is that the drain for the around the cap area? Do they get a hose?

Similar thing works well on newer BMW's. Since the BMW only closes the loop at low engine speeds, messing with the air sensor only effects idle, which is what normally needs enrichening. Also, there's no "BMWDiag" software or any way to crack into the ECU without killing it.

Just conincendally, there's a new thread on series regulators. Not form factor compatible, but brackets can be fabricated.

MartyNZ, you are correct that if the regulator cannot correctly establish the ground reference, then it will output a higher un-regulated output. However, if the ground is not connected, then there is also no return path for the current, so what the positive output goes to is irrelevant, since it is like only connecting one terminal of a battery. So, how does that explain the bright lights on my dash? I think when the ground is lost, the regulator also puts high voltage on the wire for the generator idiot light, which then coupled to all of the dash lights through the generator bulb and over driving the other dash bulbs. Since my new regulator is arriving tomorrow, I'm not going to take time to debug this entire system. I'll put the new regulator in, make sure it has a clean ground, then go for a nice long night ride to check it out.

Ducati Energia is shunt, not series.

Done and done. All looks well. I suspect I had an internal intermittent failure in the now 15yr. old Duck regulator. The regulator case had a lot of corrosion on the surface that might have been interfering with the ground connection, hence star washer. However, if the ground was intermittent, I wouldn't have had overvoltage as a symptom and I would have had a undercharged battery, which I didn't.

BTW, what has to come off of the bike before one can remove the gearshift selector cover and guts? I'm assuming remote shock reservoir and starter motor.