Pressureangle

Well, for those with complete machine shops and expensive measuring tools, sure. I could set it up on a surface plate and use a height gauge too and get it within a couple tenths. But for everyone else, this works with a cheap chinese caliper with depth tail. And no, a bearing isn't junk just because you tapped on the inner race.

I should mention that it's critical to have the spacer perfectly aligned with the bearings when taking measurements. If it's tipped it will measure long. You can finger it out, or if it's a decent fit on the axle you can use the axle and a soft mallet as the bearing driver. If the outer races are tight in the hub you can fit a piece of pipe to the outer race whilst the axle stays in place.

as long as you're in there, here's how I verify spacer fit- Set both bearings tight to the hub shoulders, with no center spacer Measure bearing depths from hub flange, both inner and outer races Remove one side bearing, place spacer. Re-install bearing until it bottoms Re-measure bearings; if you have *zero* change from no spacer measures, it's too short. If driving the second bearing home changes the depth of the first bearing, note by how much. These small bearings have very little clearance, so I would say if your center (spacer) race moved by .001" to .003" you're in good shape. If you get more protrusion than a couple thousandths, your spacer is long- which can overload the bearings if the outer races are too tight to float in the hub, which they should be. I would rather shim up a short spacer than try to work with a long one, as it's important to have the ends perfectly square to the centerline of the bearings, hard to achieve with a file or stone. If your spacer is long, you *can* drive the bearings against the spacer with an appropriate driver that touches only the inner race- then when the driven bearing finds home, the direction of forces on both bearings will load the races equally and center themselves up. That does leave you with a couple or few thousandths between the hub and the outer race of one of the bearings; a few thousandths is ok, but if they aren't tight in the hub they can shift and chafe during use. Have I overclarified that to mud now?

Absolutely agree. I'd personally much rather tour the crumbly prewar edifice, myself. However, in the big Corporate picture, the vast majority of persons want Disneyworld. So there has to be some poop to attract the flies. I'd rather see them build a tourist destination and with it a solid customer base than to see them struggle with viability.

How many wheel bearings is that? How have you checked your spacers and hub for alignment?

He ain't from around here.

Just center it up and you're good. Run it up and down just to be sure something won't snag, but I don't think there's enough latitude for adjustment to cause any trouble.

Well, I hate to do it but I have to drop out this year. Just too much going on elsewhere to make it work. Boo Hoo. I really hate to break routines. 2 more rooms and 3 garage spots opened up.

Well, if I had the air conditioned, ridiculously comfortable pole barn and another 6 zeros to burn I'd just buy every one I see. Which is probably precisely where this one lives, given it's address. To be continued

Figured since it's fairly local I'd post this up- Facebook marketplace. 1997 Moto Guzzi 1100 Sport Injected 6700 miles only Fresh out of the shop from being mechanically restored New fuel pump,filters ,fuel lines, sorting of any issues & ready to burn Florida bike $5400 obo https://www.facebook.com/share/1Z5nhbxco2/

I have to expedite my own self too... waiting for transmission seals and lock washers. Then discovery of what else is missing. Guess I'll go order tires now

You will have to lift it high. See this thread on Wildguzzi.com for some samples, and method to restrain the bike on the stand. https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=110569.0

We have to teach Grok to refer to it as 'The Rusty Star Picket Project'.

On the way.

Nah... history and sentimentality sell... and well, China. I think it's a brilliant start, they've made it a tourist destination second only to it's purpose as a factory. So someone with access to the checkbook understands their brand-loyal customers. The blindingly obvious black hole of vision is support for older models; look to John Deere and to a lesser extent H-D and Union Pacific for frothing fans. I can go to John Deere and expect to find deep support for my '53 AO. H-D still carries parts for Iron engines. U-P has spent a frightening amount of money returning Steam to the rails, for nothing more than PR and it pays off exponentially. If Mother Goose can fill that hole, they'll become a major brand again. I think. I hope.

Methinks we need a 'coffee stop' thread.

ah, I've seen that but never had to repair it. Standard hdpe tanks are simply blow-molded. This stuff is a bit 'stringy' on the edges, yes? This is precisely why I said you need to know *exactly* what material you have before you start. Good stuff.

Volvo earthmover fuel tanks are HDPE. It is very easy to weld repair, given the right equipment and filler; I cut pieces from ruined tanks as filler and patches.

Arr, the ol' Pirate's bane. Plastics have been lamented since they first arrived. Every type of plastic has it's own very specific requirements for bonding. Some bond to nothing, not even themselves. ABS plastic is problematic but not impossible. I worked at a heavy equipment shop, and to repair punctured fuel tanks (who puts a fuel tank under the loader where branches can stab it, anyway? *volvo*) we purchased a hot-air plastic welder. It worked fabulously on Polyethylene, and after some testing and practice just as well on ABS. It's critical that you discover the method to test and verify plastic type or you'll find not everything is actually made of what it's commonly called. I don't know the specific on V11 plastic, but I do have a couple pieces that could use some help. The idea with the air torch is that it's hot enough to melt the plastic while controlling exactly how soft it gets, and without risk of changing the chemistry of the plastic with flame or overheating. Mostly you simply choose the correct type of plastic welding stick and heat the base and stick together, melting the failure together. In practice, it's a delicate balance and while not hard to make a solid repair it is much harder to make a *pretty* repair. Preparation helps just as it does with metal welding, creating space in the crack to increase surface area without affecting the finish on the visible side. Using a small battery powered drill to spin the filler stick also makes things much more solid, but takes an even more practiced hand. iirc the welder kit cost something like $700 in 2005, but I'm sure inexpensive chinese kits can be had within a budget now. Hm...

I have towing per-vehicle on my Progressive policies, for cars and bikes. Altogether ~45/yr I have AAA as an add-on to a friend, something like ~$15/yr? I also have Hagerty towing for my '68 Charger. They recently changed from 'any household vehicle' to only listed covered vehicles. Nevertheless. Seems like a lot, but I got wrecked towing the bikes on a trailer and only mixing and matching got everything home without cost. Progressive towed the truck, AAA paid to tow the trailer. Worth it.

...but not actually wrong lol

This is the Way.

PM me. ___________ Docc- 'What is the TPS setting procedure on this system?' The MyECU is set up the same as always, set your TPS to ~157(?)mv. HOWEVER you can, and should, verify that the system is also set to the same value- the system can use any TPS value as a baseline.

Yes, and since they'd be CNC machined I'd have both hole positions. On second thought, I'd probably just make them all in the RP position and suggest a plate go with it if they don't have one already. Really should time-sert the lower hole too, but those kits are too expensive to include... but if any listers need it, I have it and for the price of postage and the insert itself I'd make it available.