po18guy

buy quick before Mopar fires the seller for lunchboxing those relays!

There may be hope. From the listing, which is a little confusing, but he is selling lots of 5 for some reason (heh heh...)

I have learned that a full turn is a good basic setting. Works fine in my case - but the ECU has an unreadable sticker over the OEM label, so was probably re-flashed, but how or by whom I cannot say.

More like a ducktail, was it not? The 1972 H-2 750 may have been the first, styled after road race bikes of the day.

The sad question is whether a Chrysler part will make a Guzzi more reliable... EDIT: OK, look at this: Omron-labelled relays from China marked "MADE IN USA" eBay item 123718429330 Therefore, disregard the above.

It seems that Mopar uses these in a lot of Jeeps and some of their cars. Omron? Made in USA? 5 for less than $30? Hard to believe. High Current Relays

You are setting idle with the left TB stop screw? Brainstorming here.

Which raises the point that the bypass are for idle! (or is that tick-over?). Before disturbing the injectors, you "could" try a good clean of the bypass needles and seats (throttle body or carb cleaner, and Q-tips up the passage to clean the seats. Set them to 1 turn and see what happens. Easy enough to undo. EDIT: OK, 1:1,000,000, but could there be a blockage between filter and throttle body? Could the TB shaft bush be worn out of spec? Do yours have the vacuum hoses leading from the intake rubbers inward? All are "potential" sources, even if odd. Could pull those vacuum hoses and put a cap on the intake rubber spigot, or simply hold your finger over it.

I know that's supposedly a good map, but to eliminate the air bleeds?

Have you swapped injectors side-for-side? With luck, the problem follows the injector. Are you speaking of the pilot screws closed?

Well, here's the long frame box number. (GU) 101 11 40 311

Not to be left out...

True enough. Well, stuck as we are, this seemed the most expedient solution. But, one wonders, why have a bleeder on the slave at all? It's an all uphill system. Why not place the line in the bleeder's location and simply bleed at the master, where the air will migrate in any event? They must have a variation on the KISS principle: KICS - keep it complicated, stupid!

Was somewhat plagued with them. Very annoying and when they occurred, it was very difficult to match revs to gears. I thought to myself that one day the New detent spring and Lucky Phil extender would banish it forever (and they will). At the end of last year's riding season, the clutch had gone wonky - not fully releasing and the lever would not return fully until pumped several times. Therefore, I determined to purge air from the system. As posted elsewhere, I fitted a made-in-the-UK titanium bleeder banjo bolt at the clutch master, which is the high point of the system. RaceTi makes some superb stuff, including Brembo-specific bolts. After the bike had been parked for some time with the bars turned right to place the clutch slave physically higher, it seems that some air indeed had crept in and rose to the top. Bled the heck out of the top of the system. A short ride demonstrated that it was still not 100% i.e. would just barely fully release, and shifts were clunky. Neutral impossible to find at a stop. Oh, drat! Therefore, I suspected a small air trap somewhere in the slave. Pulled the rear wheel to have somewhat better access (even if only visually) to the clutch slave. The slave bleeder screw had been tightened, probably at the factory, to a degree which was bad-joke tight. I suspect that someone on the assembly line had been turned down the evening before. Anyway, once open, I was able to thoroughly bleed the low end (I know - reverse order). Lever function and clutch action returned to normal after some miles - the old gal apparently needing some time to become acclimated to the maintenance. But, aside from normal clutch operation, I noted that the plague of false neutrals has gone away. For reasons too numerous to detail, my ankles do not have the flexibility they should and I had always attributed the false neutrals to that. However, the vaccination with fresh DOT4 fluid pushing the air out has restored the clutch's good mood. Certainly fine with me! The need for brake bleeding is obvious in a soft lever. But how to judge even a tiny amount of air in the clutch system? Indeed, the lever must go to the bar and the only 'feel" is when the clutch is engaging. Admittedly, this is purely anecdotal, but for those who are troubled with missed shifts/false neutrals, I can heartily suggest installing a bleeder up top and then bleeding both ends of the line.

That is the price you pay for free.

Imgzeit. $11/year. Super easy to use and easy to copy and paste images. I'm sold.

Ya got me worried now...snugged the clamps on the V11's intake boots just yesterday.

Yeah! My 1987 Kaw EX500 still has the original boots. Only 25K, but 34 years! Apparently, because they are inexpensive, they tend to last?

Thank you! It's now a Ballabio monoposto.

Thank you. The mid-pipe being welded on, it was the most I could get out of it without major mods. Next up some shorter M8 bolts. Was going to shorten them myself, but I'll just snag a few from Monster Bolt. There's riding to be done!

Since buying the bike, I have been making small changes that better suit me. Motobits pegs are in a box, as are the H&B bags and rack. Brought the bars down, added some Ken Sean bar-end mirrors and adjustable shorty levers. LED headlamp and signals - the taillight was LED when I bought it. But the Staintunes were at the stock height and width - good for passengers and bags, but a little vulnerable in slow maneuvering and backing. So, examining the lead-in pipe, it appeared to me that the cans could be slid a little further onto the X-over and then the entire unit rotated up and in at the rear. Did a test repositioning and it looked plausible. Kinda mid-mount. This pic shows the difference. For hangers, what I settled on were some M5 stainless marine closed body turnbuckles. Rated at 900 Kg/1980 Lbs, I figured they were up to the task of suspending a 4 Lb can. A little cutting, grinding, heating and bending, enlarging the mount holes from M5 in stages to M7.5 and hand filing with a round file so an M8 bolt would just slip through, leaving a bit more meat around the bolts. Then dug out the white buffing compound and shined them up. Snugged them up and the install leaves the bike looking a little cleaner, and lighter (almost ANYTHING will do that!). A less homely rear hugger is next. Overall, I'm pleased and I can even hear the music slightly better now.

All I know is that I wanted a Royal Oilyfield, aka Oily Enfield 750 Interceptor (chrome tank) in 1970. Having never purchased one, I stand acquitted of any contribution to the 1973 oil crisis.

Even if belated. Daughter presented me with the "100th Anniversary Edition" of Ian Falloon's The Complete Book of Moto Guzzi. For such a small company, they have made a amazing variety of models and designs, albeit with some badge-engineering tossed in. Paging through, I was familiar with the smaller US models, as the tiddlers were huge in a 1960s teenager's life. I was elated to see a nice shot of a 2004 Ballabio on pages 204-205 announcing the Aprilia era. I was deflated when it was described as the "base V11 Sport."

Sehr gut. Sehr klar. What I did was attach two VOM terminals to the non-terminated leads on the breakout harness. Just one less fiddly thing for my old fumble-fingers to do.