po18guy

When headlight aim is off , it calls for (Ahem!) manual adjustment.

Thought you'd enjoy that one...

Removing the battery entirely takes what, 1.5% off the weight? Yeah, but the high beams still work.

The fairing opening is awfully close to the diameter of the headlight ring and the slightest contact will transmit seemingly all of the vibes. Something on the order of neoprene or closed cell foam helps, but is often visible from the front. There is a thin foam tape used for medical purposes (pharmacy/chemist/druggist) that might be run around the top of the headlight ring and trimmed so that it is not poking out like a bandage - but a band aid is what we are applying in any event.

Some Ballabio tips: There are/were/supposed to be thin rubber washers between the aluminum mount and the fairing. To preserve the fairing paint, some washers between the headlight mount bolts and the fairing are a good idea. Hardware store stuff. Also, thin rubber washers that will fit between headlight shell and fairing mount will help keep the headlight adjustment where you put it. Make sure the upper fairing mount is tight both at its lower end on the fairing stay, as well as at the windshield bolts. Some small thin rubber washers between the upper mount and the fairing/windshield bolts will help there, as well. For that matter, thin rubber washers (or a perimeter rubber strip made from a bicycle inner tube) between the windshield and the fairing will also quell some of the shakes. Speaking of the shakes... When you are dealing with a bike that has more shakes than Joe Walsh on a bender, you have to take some steps.

HTmoto in Germany made a few. The owner retired and sold the tooling to: www.seby-poly.de This example is a short frame, so none of the pump-in-tank issues with tooling for the tank.

As to starting, I found that platinum plugs made about a 50% improvement in cranking time. As well, I am sorely tempted by these HQ battery cables. The only issue I had with them was resolved via an email. https://motolectric.com/makes/moto_guzzi.html

Do you need something better than NGK Racing wires? Cheap. Effective. Available.

If you want really excellent, no excuses good stuff, (I haven't checked ARP), RaceBoltUK has absolutely top shelf stuff in SS, Ti and even alloy for less stressed tasks. You can choose your head style and drilled for safety wire, etc. Last order it was one week - seven days - from mouse click to doorbell here on the west coast of the US. Incredible. And the lucky blokes in the UK get it sent for free. https://raceboltuk.com/

Good job on a purpose-built tool. +1 Big ol' pipe from the opposite side would not drive it out? Or, is it a blind hole? Fortunately, have not had to tear the project down that far... yet.

Was sorely tempted by a nice red '04 Ballabio tail unit on eBay - but someone else snagged it first. Mine is identical to this one, but with red tank and fairing. Oh, those artistic, pragmatic (wacky) Italians! "Heya Carlo, whatsa color dat taila piece we hava left to put ona dis red Ballaaaabio? Blue? Atsa all right. Goa get it denn."

D'oh! Really hard to get that tube in their for an electrolyte draw! Load test is the only way. The lesson seems to be: do not disconnect the battery unless you want to 1) replace the battery, 2) replace/rebuild the starter, 3) replace or disconnect, clean and re-tighten all cable terminals, or 4) all of the above. Let sleeping Guzzis lie?

Battery. Do a specific gravity test. Betcha' its a goner.

"Torque-to-yield" huh? I note here that Chinese 8.8 is often not "rest-of-the-world" grade 8.8 That bolt head looks rather industrial. As to snapped off bolt heads, once the torque is relieved, the shank will normally twist back out. Getting a purchase on it is the deal. A smaller bolt shank, even a wood dowel, some epoxy on the end, a little cure time and out they come. If they don't then the case threads are dirty (shame!), or were also about to let go. Found out back in the 70s at a garage where I worked when torquing a Cadillac rocker shaft bolt after replacing a head gasket. The threads were a good 8"-10" down the hole. It took a bit of patience and perseverance, but I got it back out.

At $900 the pair, fixing dented Staintunes might very well be worth it.

If you experiment a little, you can find a grit of sandpaper which will reproduce the factory "grain" in the alloy. Then, a judicious amount of "shoe shining" motion can render the repaired section even less visible.

Actually, we have: 1. One hybrid vehicle - Lexus CT200h, 2. One low emission vehicle - Honda Element, and 3. One high emotion vehicle - V11.

But a 937 Super Sport? Nice enough, but I'll take my V11 thank you very much. Speaking of the SS, I just looked up the 1977 900 Super Sport that a high school buddy bought brand new. I rode along with him on my TX650. Yeah, he was slumming. Lost contact and always wondered what he did with that SS. Googling up the '77 SS, I was rather shocked to see that mint examples go for $30-$50K? AYKM? Gotta look him up, and fast! https://www.motorcycleclassics.com/classic-italian-motorcycles/classic-ducati-motorcycles/1977-ducati-900ss-zmwz16mjzhur

I have a 1988 Civic base hatchback that I got for free. I tell you, the thrill of 68 HP pressing you back in the seat, and 4-on-the-floor is incredible!

In this case, it might be an internet way of saying "ripped from another site" :shrug: https://simple.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hotlinking Hotlinking is an internet term. It means displaying an image on a website by linking to the website hosting the image. The link gets the source data of the picture each time it is needed. This avoids having the image on every website which uses it. So, a website owner uses a link to the picture such as http://example.com/picture.jpg. When the hotlinking website is loaded, the image is loaded from the original website, which uses its bandwidth, so it costs the hotlinked website money. For this reason many website owners use .htaccess files to prevent hotlinking. In some cases website owners use the .htaccess file to replace any hotlinked images with an offensive image to deter any other website owners from hotlinking. The original image may be owned by the original website. It might be wrong to make a copy of the original image file for use on a different web page, without being careful to get proper permission. Hotlinking can also be used for file types other than images, including documents and videos.

And who would know better?

OK, so how about a V11 engine retrofit? Sounds easy! Can't say I've ever seen a Centauro, and I live in a reasonably Guzzi-rich part of the US.

That is almost exactly my idea - but without a corrugated tube - which causes turbulence and restriction. Cooler, slightly denser air produces a bit more power and more cognitive comfort for those of us who over think things. I'm planning to use the smooth silicone hose for car turbo applications. The wall thickness is sufficient that it should never collapse. Also, cutting the air box right where Phil did - at the largest diameter just ahead of the box itself. After that, they neck down quite a bit. Does the air box design trace back to carbs? I haven't searched it yet, but almost think so.

What flows best? Open velocity stacks without a screen. Emphasis on "velocity." What produces the best power? Different question. What filters the best while producing the best power? Question #3 The P08 power curve is indistinguishable from, say K&N. 1% is statistically identical. The filtration, if true, seems to be substantially better - but is that micron size of particle what we are most concerned about? And, does it do better on smaller particles? More questions than answers at this point. Aldous Huxley ended Brave New World with the sentence: "You pays your money and you takes your choice."