po18guy

Bad? No - just advisable if not necessary! Am guessing that better coils are available. Would do coil-on-plug, but then I would need "Overwidth Vehicle" flags and flashing yellow lights.

As to Brisk, I know that they are expensive. Watching a YouTube video, it seems to be an update of the old Kawasaki "Surface gap" anti-fouling plugs from the two-stroke triple days. There seems to be an intermediary laser imprinted band of something conductive around the porcelain between the center and multi-ground electrodes. Plus, Brisk also makes an Iridium version - prolly costs more than my bike. Am guessing that the V11 could benefit from something like Dyna coils, as the OEMs were (probably) marginal at best, and the loopy round-the-back-side routing only weakens the spark. Typical hot rod stuff, really.

I have a quirky spiritual link to Iridium plugs, but in a really twisted sort of way. Iridium is in the platinum spectrum and is the most erosion resistant metal known. One of the chemotherapy drugs I received (13th, 14th or 15th depending on how you count) was a platinum-based drug called Carboplatin so, I don't know, the connection just kinda stuck. Now the M&M ignition/injection is not all that sophisticated and we'll have to see how long they go before one of the cylinders cries "fowl!"

In opposition, I have removed the OEM plugs and installed Iridium. I noted quicker starts right off the bat. On DW's Lexus, the NGK Iridium originals went 250K before replacement, and we noticed zero difference. Now, I'll grant that the MG combustion chamber is more akin to a 1930s Pratt & Whitney radial than to a liquid-cooled 4-valve Japanese chamber, but anytime you can unshroud the spark in such a deep chamber, I figure it's worth a try. I also note that the MG engineers were negligent in not placing the plugs on the pushrod side of the head - making them Italo-easy to change.

You have more interesting motorbikes in Norway. In the US, the average dealer has a bunch of rather boring bikes. They seem to be either worn out Japanese sportbikes or 400 kilo Harley's with a trailer behind. Much more difficult to find something "interesting."

Nice! Well, as to price, whaddya wanna pay? That could be made a faux Scura or Coppa with a paint job, since it has the "Ó" and carbon bits. As to mileage, it seems there are the 30-40-50K "rider" bikes and then the garage/house candy that is not even broken in. Nevertheless, they are where you find them.

Two-smokers are not often a delight to hear. But that maniac genius Allen Millyard created a 5 cyl 1250cc H3 Kawi. On the boil, danged if it does not sound like an F1 motor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a90677Qci3g

Have an ImgZeit account? Excellent image hosting, being very intuitive and easily managed. About $1 US per month. And none of this image blocking nonsense that we see with the "biggies"

Had a 283 bored to 292 with a 350hp/327 hydraulic cam. To keep the hyd lifters from pumping up at high revs, the trick was to loosen them (running) until the plunger was at the end of its travel - just starting to tap. Then 1/4 turn in and you were good for revs.

Was surfing the Triumph site and seeing that they have the spectrum fairly well covered, what with Speed Triples, 2500cc Rocket Threes, Bobbers, Adventure bikes, Bonnevilles and all. What caught my eye was the Thruxton RS. Something about it looked vaguely familiar - at least in concept and paint scheme. 1200cc, 270º crank, 103 HP at only 7500, Lacking only a quarter fairing, it seems almost a British homage to the Coppa Italia.

Very sorry to hear this, but the good in the bad is that your daughter is OK. As to levers, this is a little ghetto, but mine arrived with mismatched levers from a prior owner's garage or U-turn tip over. Checked into OEM replacements. Ouch! So, I wondered if those cheapie levers on eBay would even fit. Turns out they do - just fine, and they have adjustable reach if she has smaller hands. They went on as is, but I ended up swapping the piston contact screws from the Guzzi levers into the replacements. I used Mobil1 synthetic grease on all moving parts and all was good. About $20 to your door. https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Sport-CNC-Clutch-Brake-levers-1999-2004/172979576373?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Loud? Any can by D&D will be terribly loud. M4 I think, is right behind them. Probably no V11-specific cans though. Not for the 'historic" models. If you're a V7 or V85 hipster with a funny mustache or a beard that looks like a badger is attacking your face, you're good to go. I'm kinda stuck with the Staintunes, as they have the mid-welded on. I can rotate them a bit, clockwise on the right and anti-clockwise on the left, but then they'll have positive camber, like the taillights on a 1960 Mercury Comet. Hate to cut that polished SS and have new mids made. Ah, but what am I talking about? If DW likes her spot, there will be no high-mounts.

Maybe one of those kill-switch keys on a lanyard that stops the motor if you're tossed off.

Being a plain bearing motor, the bikes need a mercury switch to cut ignition if on their sides - but that would be just another nightmare for diagnostics. Went down twice in the 70s on my TX650 Yamaha. In one case, the bike was about 45º from being upside down in a ditch, but still idling. But since it is a roller bearing motor, it was not a huge deal. Went on to ride it another 30K or so.

Crap! I was just searching for that to post here - but it's gone! Who do you suppose…? 3877 miles IIRC. Far cheaper than a rebuild. For anyone who needs them, I did find this crank and rods from a Cafe Sport for $300 and change in Kali. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-03-05-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Cafe-Sport-OEM-Crankshaft-Connecting-Rods-Engine-Parts/324082671074?hash=item4b74d51de2:g:AmkAAOSw8iJeU2s5

Apparently, Dali is OK.

Here are the bulbs I use in front (so far). Zero problems and really bright, as the projector beam points straight forward. No vibe problems, and not terribly pricey at $8.50 US per bulb. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075Q9RGZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very nice. Except for the bars, identical to the one I bought. Which pipes are mounted?

For classic sport bikes and sport-touring bikes, Bridgestone has long offered the BT45 Battlax, a tire (tyre) which has always been highly rated. However, after almost two decades, Bridgestone has updated the tire with a new compound and slightly modified tread pattern. Rain performance is said to be substantially improved, while dry traction remains the same. Fairly obviously, the new offering is called the BT46. I see from their intro page that they do have excellent taste in classic sport bikes.

I bought five Made in Corona adjustable two wire LED flashers and so far, so good. The problem is finding BAU15S LED bulbs which survive the V11's, um…heartbeat.

Looks like someone "Lemansed" your Ballabio. Any chance you could post up a pic of the bike from the front or side? Am considering clipons and want to see how they "fit" the bike overall. ok.

Great! I get the impression that MG was like Colt Firearms in that they never knowingly built two identical products.

Youth is wasted on wasted youth.

Hmmmm. How much room between bar mounts and gauges when it is at full lock?

From the interwebz: Exhaust manifold temperatures vary for different vehicles and operating conditions Manifolds and/or exhaust pipes on some vehicles can reach 1200 degrees F. It is rare to find temperatures this high in normal operation. The hottest locations tend to be those for which there is some constriction or impingement of exhaust gas. For example, a bend in an exhaust manifold tube immediately outside the cylinder will have a surface upon which the exhaust gas has a greater capacity to transfer heat. Exhaust system temperatures will be reduced at any point of contact with cooler components of large thermal mass, such as the cylinder head.