PhillipLarsen

Update, I contacted HMB. They sell both types of tensioners, their beefed up version of the MG one and the blade style. They recomend their beefed up one, but also say the other works as well. They said that the HMB design fits exactly as the original and no case machining or grinding required. I am ordering one to see what it looks like and will decide which way to go once I have both on hand in about 10 to 14 days. Thanks Phil and Pete for your expertise. Will post the outcome in a few weeks.

Thanks for the link Phil. That is exactly the issue, and although they show an older model Guzzi where the original tensioner pin attaches to that pad and the newer 2004 v11 the tensioner pin just rests against that pad, the pad needs to be relieved 4.5mm plus 2.0 mm for the end of the new tensioner pin. Looks like a lot of dremel work. I am going to check if the other aftermarket tension would avoid the need to remove material from the case. If I end up doing the surgery it will be like when getting an eye lens replaced, with complete sealed protection covering and enclosing the timing case area with only the area of work exposed to avoid any material contaminating the engine.

Thanks Phil, will go with sealant as you recommend. Any particular type you would suggest?

Thanks for the info Pete. The issue I am having is with the blade off the base / pin, when I go to place and bolt the base in place I cannot as it cannot lay flat due to the difference between the plane the base mounts on and the case pad under the aft end of the pin. About 4.5mm difference.

Thanks Phil, I had not seen that one before. It looks like similar layout to the original but sturdier, not clear what spring mechanism looks like. I am curious about whether the tensioner against the chain is stronger than the original. I will ask for more details and whether it fits in my engine. Have you installed one of these? Any case modification required? Yes I checked the gap precisely when I put the new pulse generator in during winter Mtce and checked it again yesterday ( it is a tight .8mm) within spec. I need to take it out again to seal it as even though I put new sensor, o-ring and shims it is already seeping very slightly at under 1000 km since installed. I guess will additionally use some sealant.

Looking for some knowledge about installing the Millepercento Cam chain tensioner I got from MG Cycle on my 2004 V11 Ballabio (about 26,000 Km) I have read all the information I could find on this site about installing the tensioner, looked at the pictures and took my bike apart (exhaust off, Tank off, front fender off, front upper sub frame 4 bolts out and pivot forward, kick stand and mount off) all to make for easier working environment. I had tested using a timing light on both cyclinders to see if the scatter of igition at steady low speed was large and it was moving irradically back and forth at steady engine speed from just off an idle to about 2000 RPM and missfiring occationally at steady speed around 1900 to 1950 RPM. It was doing this prior to all the work (listed below) and still is. (alway when warmed up). I had set valve clearance and new plugs last fall and had only a couple rides before winter and thought it was gone, but it was not, just hiding in the cold weather! Over the winter all sensors including TPS replaced, pulse sensor replaced and gap correct, full decent tune up (and verified several times), several tried times, always the same, does it with tank cap open, no spark leak at wires or plug caps, they are like new, plugs are new, valve clearanes set loose end of range, tried several brands of fuel, etc. I now have Cam Case open, Gears (Cam/Crank/Oil Pump) removed, original cam chain tensioner removed. The tensioner is worn but not badly, the spring is very weak and takes very little force to hold it off the chain, it actually barly touches the chain with no pressure on it. Tried fitting the new Millepercento/Stucchi type tensioner, and there is a problem. The case pad that the pin of the original sensor sits against is about 4.5 mm to high so cannot install new tensioner base which is flat and sits against (over) that pad. Even if I machine (grind out ) the case pad the 4.5 mm, will also need to relieve another 2mm for the end of the pin that protrudes through the base to clear the pad. The pad height relative to the height of the surface where the new tensioner lies on is 4.5 mm different as measured from the cam case joining face surface. My question is have others installing these tensioners had to machine out the pad to install them, or am I missing something here? I will attach pictures for reference. old tensioner prior to removal, case with removed (see pad on right side), old tensioner base and new tensioner. I appreciate any help or advice on how to proceed to install this. Is this possibly not the correct tensioner? Is it normal to need to machine out the pad?

On mine the nuts on the oil line were a hard to turn initially but used a little wd40 and loosen/ tighten and they loosen up. If only one is giving trouble you might consider disconnect all three ends of oil line and take the fitting with the oil line off on the difficult one and then work on it on the bench

I had the oil leak at both heads ( 2004 Ballabio) where the fitting attaches to the head. It was not the oil line to fitting. If you check out other reports I think that is where the leak is most often There was an aluminum crush washer between the fitting and the head. In my case that was where the leak was. It was all original 20 years old. Looked like some kind of thread sealer or Locktite on the threads. I removed the fitting and glad I did not just tighten them up as the aluminum crush washers were quite distorted from wiggling around. I replaced the aluminum washers with copper washers and used some locktite to ensure threads sealed as well. No more leak so far.

Had my first ride of year on 2004 Ballabio after completing my 20 year (approx 25,000 km ) maintenance visit. With all the work done, new tires, all callipers & master cylinders rebuilt, new brake pads, all new engine sensors, complete “Decent Tune Up”, including plugs, air filter, etc., Roper Plate installed, drive shaft removed and greased, etc. it is just like it came out of the showroom in 2004. Good for another 20 yrs/ 25,000 km. Not sure I am! What a pleasure to ride.

Or Forever in Blue Jeans

Note my spare in the picture is my clutch master on the shelf!

My mistake, looking back through my orders from my 20-year overhaul of the 2004 Ballabio, Powerhouse UK is where I got the caliper kits for front and rear calipers. Gotham Cycles (Ducati/Brembo parts) is where I got the master cylinder kits for clutch (12mm), front brake (16mm same as used on Ducati) and rear brake. (some are the same parts as used on early Ducati 916 I think or at least use the same internal parts). You will see all the Brembo parts (with Ducati references parts on line). If rebuilding the rear brake master be sure to order the 90-degree fitting with O-ring (comes separate) as you will want to remove it from the master cylinder to make sure no bit or residue in there. That is where mine had plugged up, leaving back brake rubbing without me knowing, destroying pads, plastic pad cover, etc. On the clutch and front brake master cylinder I add a bleed banjo fitting where the brake line attaches to master cylinder. Makes it easier to ensure no trapped air. Gotham sells these as well. The parts are not too expensive, especially the rear master. I had also bought an original Moto Guzzi supplied Brembo complete front master cylinder with all the attachment, including lever, adjuster, etc., prior to finding the rebuild kits were available through Gotham. . On the shelf for a spare now. Hope this helps.

I bought rebuild kits for all master cylinders and callipers for my 2004 Ballabio last year from Powerhouse Automotive in UK. You can find them on ebay and their own website. If you don’t see what you need just ask them. They had it all for me and service was fast to Canada.

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=37_140 17768750 - $11.38 - Oil pressure switch most Guzzis thru 2005 GU17768750 [17768750] : MG Cycle, Moto Guzzi Parts and Accessories available online at MGCycle.com

I replaced the oil pressure switch recently during 20 year maintenance project, got one from MG Cycle for about USD 12.00

This always makes me think about changing the lady partners daily in the summer as I move through the week (Ballabio, Stelvio, 916, CBX, Norton, 500 Turbo, 40 Indian Chief)

I installed a Roper plate recently and found it was not a very big project. Make sure to have the needed two upper sump gaskets and one lower sump gasket on hand ( if you are going to install with gaskets), and I got a spare of each just in case one would get damaged. Lucky I ordered the extra as one arrived at dealer torn due to being poorly packaged by Piagio. The gaskets are inexpensive. With the extra thickness of the Roper plate and one extra upper gasket I found it necessary to modify the side stand mount by making the two bolt holes slightly oval and to provide clearance for the the bolt heads to accommodate the repositioned bolt location in the fitting. I used a Dremel with grinder bit. See photo of modified fitting in Gallery Pictures. Also slightly trimmed back to allow fitting to move down to align bolt holes. I thought it was best to ensure the slightly repositioned fitting is not putting any different side loads on the cam case or sump. Link to images

Your bleed issue reminds me of a front brake problem bleeding I had on my Norton 850 that was all original. Many similarities. So simple system, but was not responding, decided to swap out master for new, then slave for known rebuilt good one off the back, still problem. Only thing left was the brake line, which was two rubber lines and a metal line in between. The rubber lines were the issue breaking up inside, causing intermittent problems. Changed all the lines and was like new.

Ok, I’ll take them all. Can I arrange to pick up today? Can you PM me? Thanks

I think I see a set of V11 drivers lowering footpegs in the photo, but not sure that is what they are. If so, I am interested in them, what are you looking to get for them? Also looks like some standard V11 footpegs, do you have a set of driver pegs? I have been wanting a set to use as the basis for fabricating / modifying for slightly different foot position. Price for these if you have a set. I have a 2004 Ballabio and am located in Kitsilano. I tried to PM you, but system says TwinAH is not accepting PM? Best Regards Phillip

Hello LangleyMalc Not too long ago I also had to replace my second Odyssey in my 2004 Ballabio here in Metro Vancouver (part of my 20-year-old bike update), as it became unable to start the V11. I had good experiences with the Odyssey's (12 and 8+ years) but getting one here was weeks away, and I needed much sooner. I decided to try find a Matgas locally to replace it, even if temporarily. The only one I could find locally of the same size and storage capacity at the time was a Moto Master Eliminator XD Power Sport ETX15L that was in stock (Canadian Tire) and of very recent manufacture date. Price was quite a bit less that Odyssey (around 150 Cdn). The terminal configurations were wrong however I made up one heavy cable for the positive side to run to the group of cables that attach to positive. It worked out very nicely resulting in an installation that is much easier to install and remove the battery. The next time I will try plan ahead for an Odyssey. I may try find a terminal layout the same as this battery due to the convenience of the installation. On another note, you should bring your Ballabio to one of the Moto Social monthly meets when they start again in May. VANCOUVER - The Moto Social There were several other v11's there during some of the 5 events last summer, one being a 2004 Lemans in red looking really nice, and my 04 Ballabio.