PhillipLarsen

At about the same time when I was 13 years old in 1967 I bought a used 1964 Honda 50 Sport C110 (the image is from internet, mine looked identical) and a very used 1940 Indian Chief 74 with sidecar (found it on a nearby farm in northern Saskatchewan not being used). I still have the Indian 56 years later (picture is of me riding it a couple years ago) and the 50 Sport was in a moto museum in Alberta last time I saw it about 10 years ago.

Could you please add me to the list for one slosh plate for my 2004 Ballabio. Thanks

I do really like the Stelvio for long multi day, 10 or more hours per day trips, and for some nice gravel back road. It is very comfortable and I am old. I love my V11 for sport riding and shorter day or two trips, even 8 hour one day trips is ok.

I bought a 2012 Stelvio 3 years (8,000 miles ago) from a friend which had about 22k miles on it. I am third owner, previous two are close friends of each other and me, Guzzi enthusiasts and look after their bikes. The bike had been used about 98 % on pavement, but used through rainy weather on longer trips when that occurred. This one was a pre rollerization from factory and had the correct rollerization kit installed by the dealer at about 10k miles. It has the running lights rewired to ensure no shorts. The issues I have had are fairly common I think. I now have about 30K miles on it, and just follow the service recommendations. 1. Rear suspension and swingarm needle bearings I noticed the rear suspension link was due for servicing (24K miles) of bearings and also the swingarm bearings (there are no grease nipples on any of these). When I removed all the rear suspension link needle bearings and seals they all needed replacing (almost no grease in them and rust in many of them). Apparently both the needle bearings and swingarm bearing came from factory with only a smaller amount of light grease at new. I would just take apart and grease it all as a preventative measure, if there is no history of it being done. The swingarm tapered needle bearings had little grease and just a very slight indication of rust around the edges starting. I replaced the link bearings and seals, and cleaned up the swingarm bearings, replaced the seals on these as well. I used marine grease for all of these ( packed full of grease), as it tends to keep the water from getting in at all. Apparently it is fairly common for these to get contaminated with water. With the bike on the double stand removing the linkages and swingarm is quite easy and pressing the needle bearings out of and into the linkages is straight forward with a small hydraulic press. Allows to clean up and lubricate the drive shaft, etc. at the same time. 2. Spoke wheels leaking at nipple O rings Excessive leakage from wheels through the O-rings on the spoke nipples. The rear was loosing 2 to 3 psi per week, and just annoying me. I put the wheel in the water tank and realized that a lot of the spoke nipples were weeping past the o rings ( very small bubbles very slowly). Next time I changed the rear tire I ended up taking them all out one at a time to replace the o rings, clean out and spray each nipple bore in the rim with a engine block enamel to give a smoother finish and then reinstall the spoke/ nipple with proper silicone grease. No leaking in two years since.

I see there is some consideration of using Kevlar. My recommendation would be not to, based on some experience about 25 years ago when i worked as a design engineer for an airline, and we had new Airbus A320 aircraft that had Kevlar in many of the the belly panel. The environment in this location subjects them to hydraulic oil and Skydrol from leaks as well as a lot of water and humidity. The panels absorbed oils into the the panel from the edges where they were trimmed during production, using the Kevlar to wick into the panel saturating the core material and turning the ridged panels to mush. Airbus ended up having to replace all the belly panels with Kevlar with new Carbon fiber or fiberglass panels on the early serial number planes that had them. Cost a fortune. The original design goal of the Kevlar was for durability.

I am looking to buy a set of Front Foot Pegs (the folding pegs themselves, as do not need the mount) part numbers GU30440705 Right Hand, and GU30441805 Left Hand. I think all the V11 Sport, Lemans, Ballabio, Scura, etc. used the same footpegs. I am going to modify them by cutting the Peg off, welding on a aluminum piece than extends them down about 25 mm and welding the peg back on to that extension. They will still fold using original method. Want a spare set to modify while I still ride my V11 Ballabio. Appreciate any information where a set maybe available. Thanks

Much thanks to @paulnaz for the parts to allow me to put original Ballabio bars back on my Ballabio which has Lemans top triple plate with Lemans Clip ons. When done I will be able to switch back and forth between bar setups fairly quickly. Really appreciate the parts. If anyone would have the two top parts that clamp the bars in place I am looking for those to complete the installation. Thanks Phillip

Hello Paul, that is great. My postal code is V6K 1B2 Vancouver BC. Thanks a lot. Usually by post is the most reasonable to Canada for small items.

Hello @paulnaz, sorry I had missed your reply back in December. I am just getting back to trying to change the bars back to original on the 2004 Ballabio. Yes those look like the parts that I need if/when I find an original upper triple plate (GU01493180). I would like to buy them from you if you may be willing to sell them, just for the case that I find an original Ballabio triple plate. The Stein Dense upper triple plate is no longer available. There is a LSL Super bike V11 Lemans kit to convert to one piece handle bars that will work. It is a plate that mounts on top of the existing triple plate that has the handlebars mounts on it, and shown previously I think, but the link shows it in black and they may have changed it slightly from the previous one shown. If I cannot find an original Ballabio triple plate, I may end up going with the LSL plate adapter. Link Superbike-Kit MOTO GUZZI V11 Sport schwarz LSL black Moto Guzzi V11 Le Mans Le M | eBay Thanks Phillip

I had the same 2 to 3 psi leak per week on my 2012 Stelvio last year(39,000 Km) on it. Wanting to fix it, put the wheel in the water tank and was leaking a very little at many spoke nipples (about 70 %) past the o rings. Three or four had subtantial bubbles. As I was about to replace the tire decided to address it. I found correct o rings in quantity and the right material reasonable price by the 100. Replaced all of the o rings one at a time on the rear wheel using correct silicone grease. There was white powder in the o ring / nipple area on most of them, I think was either salt or road grime. The bike had been used by the previous owner / friend in early spring when there is still salty water on the wet road when the snow leaves. I cleaned every thing very clean and lubricated. Was much better but still leaked about 2 psi per 2 weeks. This winter was wanting to cure the issue, considered either a tube or some sealant. Decided to put it in the tank again and see what was going on before giving up. It was leaking at the nipples past o rings again at about half of the o rings. Took the worst ones out to sample what could be going wrong. What was clear is the bores in the rim were not smooth, slight ridges and not very good finish. I decided to try something. Cleaned each bore very clean, then sprayed black thin gloss engine block paint in each bore, let it set a few minutes, then a second coat. it smoothed out the bores and imperfections, came out shiny smooth in the bores. Let it cure one day before putting nipple back in with oring / silicone grease. I did four nipples at a time over a number of days until done. When all done, tire back on, pressure in, let it sit 4 weeks, with no measurable change in pressure, into the tank to check to be sure, no leaks at any nipples. Have now ridden about 500 km and still no change in pressure. I think the imperfect bores were allowing the o rings to allow a little weaping. The front tire has always been much better, only leaking about 1 psi per month, but when the wheel comes off for tire change in about 5000 km, I will do the same to the front wheel, including the paint in each bore of the rim.

I see this 1993 Daytona 1000, Dr John Wittner BOTT Racer Replica for sale here in Vancouver area. 93 Moto-Guzzi DAYTONA 1000, styled after Dr. John Wittner BOTT racer... (craigslist.org)

Thanks Motortouring, you are right the LSL riser kit looks like it would work with the spacers to fill in the machined pocket on the top of the plate. That gives the two options. I think if I end up going non oem, I may still like the Stein Dinze upper plate better, with just the one piece all machined giving the cleaner look, even though about 65Euro more expensive. Either will work though. Appreciate your help providing this information.

I checked the Lemans Triple plate currently installed, and it does have bosses on the bottom of the plate at about 14 cm apart (quite wide), but the top of the triple plate is not flat as it has a machined pocked over a substantial amount of the surface area and the step is about right in the middle of where the bosses are on the bottom. I would need to get some machining done to create a place where the risers could be installed and have a flat spot on the top and bottom. I will keep my searches going for an OEM triple plate that will work without modification, and if cannot find one before spring, will order the Stein Dinze set up. Appreciate everyone suggestions.

Yes, that makes sense and good suggestion, much appreciated. I will check the current Lemans triple plate to see if it has the props for drilling holes and if so can search for another similar Lemans/Sport etc. plate.

Yes, I agree with Lucky Phil. Unfortunately the original unidirectional seal (only about 10,000 km on the bike) did not have a double lip seal (dust excluder second lip). I was very surprised as well. It looked like the issue causing the leak was all the dust and grime in the seal / drive shaft area as it is in an area next to the tire/wheel with high exposure to road dust and grime, especially here where the secondary roads are often contaminated with lots of dust and debris from logging truck, farm vehicles, etc. The seal had no visible damage, even when examined under 15X magnification. Given all the dirt in the drive shaft area, I was even thinking it would be beneficial if there was some way to enclose the area, but with the new seal decided to try it to see if it eliminates the contamination problem. The double lipped seal I obtained is also a unidirectional with the dust excluder second lip. The reason I had to wait a couple days for it was because I wanted the same uni directional seal, but with second lip in a high quality material, and in the exact size, which they did not have on the shelf but were able to bring in.

When replacing the pinion seal, I went to a bearing house and ordered a double lipped seal (high quality) that will not react to oils and solvents. They are not expensive and readily available, just took a couple days to get the exact size. Less chance for leak in future. Mine was leaking at the pinion seal and the evidence was a slight film of oil coming off the drive shaft area and onto the right edge of the tire and rim. After replaced no further leaks. I cleaned up the entire rear end, lubed everything, splines on driveshaft, grease nipples on drive shaft, cleaned large seal on rear drive from outside, greased everything on reassembly. Thousand of Kilometers ago and oil tight.

Thank you very much for the information motortouring. I am hoping not to drill the Lemans upper triple clamp to keep it looking nice, as I will still use it other than for long trips. The Stein-Dinse triple tree and risers looks very good. I will check into it further, if I do not find any OEM parts.

What I did when I needed to remove the #18 nut was buy a half inch drive socket the exact right OD and then use angle grinder with a thin hard wheel to cutout the socket to create the tool. It only took about 30 minutes to create it and worked very well. To hold everything while I removed the nut I reinstalled the rear end without the drive shaft and used the brake to hold everything from turning while I removed the nut. The nut was very tight, but worked well with a second person to hold the brake on.

Thanks fotoguzzi, I really appreciate the offer, from what I can tell so far they are not compatible. Maybe someone else will know for sure.

I am still looking for all of these Ballabio parts ( upper triple plate, handlebars, etc, ), if anyone has any available. Thanks

Ok, great thanks. If anyone may have an Upper Triple Plate for V11 Ballabio (the one drilled for the handlebar mounts), I would be interested in buying that as well.

I'm interested, no problem for helicoil. Can you check if they are there and let me know.

2004 V11 Ballabio Handlebars, Upper Triple Plate, Handle bar mounts wanted Looking for original upper triple plate, handlebars (grey preferred), and handlebar mounts for 2004 V11 Ballabio. My Ballabio came with the Lemans upper triple clamp, Lemans clipons, and speedo/tachometer relocated further forward. Apparently the dealer at the time had two customers, one wanted a Lemans with Ballabio bars, other wanted Ballabio with Lemans bars, so they accommodated both by swapping. I bought the Ballablio shortly after it was sold new, and did not even realize this was not the stock set up. I really like the current set up, but would like the original Ballabio set up so I can swap to that for some really longer multi day rides where my arthritis starts coming into play (67 years old). Appreciate any help or leads on who may have a set of these they may want to sell, as some people may have removed Ballabio set up to install Lemans set up. Main parts needed: Handlebars GU01600382 Upper triple plate GU01493180 upper U bolt (handle bar mount) GU01500680 need 2 LH Lower U bolt (handle bar mount) GU01500281 RH Lower U Bolt (Handle bar mount) GU01500280 Screw AP8150049 need 2 Screw GU89682430 or 600123 M8 x 30 Need 4 Washer GU95008210 need 2 Cup GU273530505 or AP8123721 need 2 Spacer GU91182019 need 2 Rubber Spacer AP8144222 need 4 Spacer 20 x 29 x 4 GU91182004 need 2