80CX100

Hey Al, While you're waiting for your Lonelec cables to arrive, if you haven't done so already, I highly recommend also picking up a set of the Casper's breakout cables that gstallons posted a thread link to, on page 1 of this discussion. Armed with those 2 simple tools really helped me demystify doing tune ups on my efi guzzis. I may still be overwhelmed and have the deer in the headlight look at times, while trying to navigate guzzidiag/procedures etc,,, but not having to worry about the cable connections for the TPS and guzzidiag; is gold. fwiw Good luck Kelly

I think they all come with DBK's now, some of the older pipes may not have them? Mistral exhausts are new to me, but the ones I recently bought have a DBK held in with a single allen head fastening. I haven't tried the set on my V11 yet, but when I tried different fuel maps on my CalVin, I had to put the DBK's in to improve low speed running. On my CalVin, without the DBK's it seemed to loose the nice low rumble and the sound got a bit sharper than I like, that's why I was curious how your pipes were set up, your bike has that nice low rumbly thunder mg sound that I'm looking for. Kelly

I'm sure it was appreciated by all that you were flying the flag,,, what can I say, we're a bashful shy bunch,lol. I did want to ask you though, as you rumbled up in the video, were the DBK's in or out of those Mistral pipes? It sounded very sweet, nice low rumble. Kelly

I'll take a couple dozen of those badges if you get them done up, please and thank you,lol. As a mechanical, electrical & digital Luddite, I owe much gratitude to members of the guzzi community, from literally the 4 corners of the globe. The bikes are a special breed, most of them running in tip top order, due in large part to the community support, which is way beyond special. Tks Kelly

I find analog vm's great to show readings of smooth operation etc, but for measuring very fine precise mv's measurements, my digital meter is much preferred. What I did find very helpful in getting an accurate setting and good tune up, was making my TPS adjustments guided by my digital vm, but then verifying the final setting with the throttle angle displayed on guzzidiag. Apparently guzzidiag will not read the minute voltages accurately, but it DOES read the throttle plate angle correctly. fwiw ymmv Kelly

^^^^This

I'm 61, I've had severe neck issues in the past, a good chiro got me back on track, and I now do my own stretching, cracking etc that I need to do, to stay relatively pain free. I learned too late the perils of ignoring core exercises, so now I'm playing catch up managing a hernia with exercise. Simple stretching, walking and boxsteps have a huge impact on my day to day fitness level. It was with some trepidation, that I jumped into my 2003 Lemans, but I'm doing what I can to make it a comfortable ride. Picked up a Rich Maund seat, got the touring MRA windscreen and for the price of a used bike,lol, got a set of MPH Risers. The MPH risers were extremely expensive to bring into Canada, but they are nice kit, loosening up the wire bundles in the loom and rerouting some items was crucial for a good install, but I was very disappointed in the brake/clutch lines in the kit. Rather than OEM style 90 degree fittings the lines are supplied with straight inline fittings pointing directly at the speedo & tach, virtually eliminating a complete range of motion and adjustability, fwiw, jmho. Life being what it is, I haven't got the bike altogether and on the road, but I'm thinking the comfort level should be quite a bit better, if I really get on with the bike and it needs it, I might look at lowering the pegs. The V11 series offers a very unique slice of guzzi design and ownership experience, if I have to mod the bike ,to make it work for me, so be it. Kelly

That's interesting,nice find! I've never heard of that MFW Vario system, but I like that Twisted Throttle available in Canada carries them. I did a quick search online for info and found out that Stein Dinse lists them for sale as well, I've never bought through them, but I think they have a reputation for selling quality kit, fyi https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=173541 That system adds up, when you figure in bracket, mount and footpeg, but there aren't a lot of options out there. Hopefully someone with knowledge or experience will chime in. Tks Kelly

Hey Docc, Tbh, when I thought I was simply bypassing the safety switch, I didn't look that hard for it the 2nd time, knowing that I needed that little bit to get the bike going, changed the urgency level of the search. I pulled out one of my bright LED work lights, and after crawling on the floor for 2 minutes, I now have that little black plug in ,my hand again,lol. I've read some of your posts on keeping that area clean and lubed, what would be appropriate, a little dab of silicon grease to lube it up and help hold it in place while I jam the lever and perch back together? Tks Kelly

Docc, that's not the right answer,lol. I dropped and found that little piece once,,, I don't think the finding part is happening the second time,,lol I'll look for that little piece again, but if I don't find it, what would be the best solution. ie Trace the wires back to the bullet connectors on the left side of the tank, disconnect them, wire them together bypassing the clutch switch completely? Tks Kelly

I'll definitely give that a try; key to the whole thing was disassembling the lever assembly so I could verify that the m/c piston was moving normally once I had confidence that it was working, I moved on the gravity technique mentioned above, and as you said, I tapped on the m/c and the slave as well, I think it helped but I will position the m/c as you describe and give it a go. Now the good or bad depending, when I disassembled the clutch lever to verify the piston worked in the m/c, I lost the tiny plastic piston that contacts the clutch safety switch, I'm hoping that just means that I've bypassed the safety switch and it will start and run normally. I had read a lot already on bypassing the clutch safety switch, I didn't realize I would do it by other methods,,lol Tks Kelly

My mcgyvered reverse engineering prime pump failed miserably, but I did make serious headway today; attacking it a different way. I digested a ton of info from this site last night, and I think it was you in other posts had mentioned using gravity to move the bubbles along; that really helped, a lot! After 1 whole day of just seeing clear fluid with no bubbles, I tried what you had suggested elsewhere and filled up the m/c reservoir and opened up the bleeder nipple and let gravity move the fluid and air along; sure enough once I closed the bleeder nipple, worked the lever and pressurized the line, I started to bleed out air again. I worked this technique back and forth, once I wasn't seeing air from the bleeder, I'd fill it up again, open up the bleeder, let gravity move things along for a while, then repeat, I've gotten a lot of air out of it, and starting to feel some resistance, but I don't think I'm back up to full pressure yet. Tks Kelly

I knew of this trick and used it for both of my brake m/c's but I wasn't sure about the openings and flow of fluid inside the clutch m/c, I'll definitely give that a go a few nights before I close things up. Tks Kelly

I have the same issue that the OP did in this thread, but I "think" my problem is more complicated than just air in the new clutch line. I just put an MPH riser kit on my "new to me" 2002 Lemans 7K kms (not ridden much in it's life, it's mint, been garaged for last 3-4yrs and was working perfectly). The clutch line bled out fine; I noticed if the bleeding nipple was only opened 1/4 turn, it didn't let that much air out, sometimes none, 1/2-3/4 turn of the nipple let out much more air. I now have good fluid moving out the bleeder hole with no sign of air bubbles, but I have what feels like zero resistance on the clutch lever. I've read through numerous posts and in that information was a comment from Phil that the fuller motion of the m/c piston when bleeding can damage seals or get hung up on debris in the travel path it normally doesn't hit. I noticed when bleeding the clutch, that the rubber boot (covering the end of the piston where the lever exerts pressure on the m/c) made a funny squishy empty hollow sound that I never noticed before, like it was just the empty boot collapsing with no resistance from the m/c piston hidden inside it. The clutch lever has very little resistance when pulled but seems to spring back normally fwiw. My theory at this point is that the end of the piston has stuck inside m/c, the fluid appeared relatively clean and not skanky, but the bike has sat for a long time and the piston may have got hung up on debris. I'll confirm later today, but I think the fluid I'm seeing coming out the bleeder nipple down at the slave cylinder is now moving because of gravity; not pressure from the m/c piston. I recently picked up a fair quality 1.5 l fluid syringe for draining the fluid on a sealed hydrostatic transmission on my lawnmower; I'm going to attempt to reverse engineer it down at the nipple on the slave cylinder and force fluid into the slave cylinder- line- m/c- piston; and hopefully push the piston back into proper position. For those in the know of how these systems work,,, am I off base or is there a better way of diagnosing and addressing the issue? If I do the reverse pressure attempt, how should I best set it up for success; Bleed nipple at the slave cylinder 1/4? 1/2? 3/4? turn open? Cover on reservoir at m/c on or off? Lever left alone or pulled in 1/2 way or to the bar? On this post that I replied to, the manual describes removing the slave cylinder and pushing the slave cylinder piston back, with my tranny crossover it sounds like a night mare job, but is that something I should consider doing if all else fails? Tia Kelly

Hey Al, Glad to see you back here in the flesh; Your post may have been 12 years old, but thanks for leaving the trail of bread crumbs, it was just the right info and fix that I needed. Tks Kelly

Hey Docc & anyone else that happens to read this, please take what I say on this computer stuff with a grain of salt, because by no means do I have a firm grasp on it, I'm definitely in over my head on a wing and a prayer,lol. I "think" the recommended best practice now with guzzidiag is to disregard loading the FTDI driver and load the reader driver instead to drive the chip. I "think" the reason for the change was because if you load the FTDI driver first and then later on, try to load the guzzidiag reader driver, there will be a conflict and problems. By loading the guzzidiag reader driver instead of the FTDI driver, it drives the chip and you preclude any future driver conflicts. fwiw Kelly

Hey Docc, When it comes to computers, ECU, EFI, maps etc,,, it's all black magic to me and it never goes smooth and seamless, lol. I remember the first time I used it on my Griso last year, I was connected to the ECU and could see it, but I couldn't see any of the measurements of my bike etc until I remembered to launch the reader driver, was it that or something else I did in the sequence so it finally worked, idk, lol. When you say guzzidiag worked without launching the reader driver, had you initially installed a driver for the Lonelec cable and chip? My understanding was that the cable with chip needed a driver in order to function. Tbh, I never tried launching guzzidiag alone this year without the reader, because the first thing on my to do list was to read and copy my oem map before I uploaded a new map. It seems that people and their computers have different experiences and results with it; I've read of microsoft 10 users having no trouble at all and yet even with my anti virus etc disabled, every time I tried to double click and open the reader file, windows 10 recognized it as a threat and actually deleted the file. It did that on me 3 times before I learned to right click and then press open, fwiw idk. I keep reading people having trouble selecting com ports etc, on my computer I just plug it all together and it's always selected com port 3 automatically in the initial set up and I just clicked ok, I've never had to search around for it etc. fwiw tks Kelly

https://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=96957.0 This link will take you to the latest guzzidiag tutorial that Beetle has posted, his instructions will walk you through it. Iirc, Beetle specifically mentions somewhere in that link about ignoring the chip driver and installing the appropriate reader&writer from guzzidiag instead. Read my instructions again, I don't know what you're seeing on your computer and referring to as packets; but you should see 3 different "exe" files, if you're not uploading a new map, forget about the writer driver, but I believe you still have to launch the reader driver by right clicking and selecting open or run for the chip and guzzidiag to read the ecu. take your time, good luck with it Kelly

I downloaded the reader, writer and guzzidiag all into a new folder on my HD so I knew where to find them to launch them. I "think" you need to open and run the reader driver for the chip in the cable to interface with the ECU. When I ran guzzidiag for the first time last year on my griso, everything looked fine and seemed to connect, but I wasn't able to actually read the bike's info until I launched the reader, fwiw. There seems to be a little confusion on verifying the tps with guzzidiag; it's not accurate enough to measure the voltage to set the baseline, so I did that with a voltmeter/Caspers breakout cable and used the vm to set the idle voltage and then verified the results with the visible tps angle on guzzidiag. (I've read that according to Beetle, guzzidiag does apparently accurately read the tps angle) Good luck Kelly

I'm not a computer weenie at all, but I just spent a week with guzzidiag on my CalVin, so I can share a few thoughts while it's still fresh in my mind. Don't get overwhelmed looking at all of the packets of info and code; depending on what you want to do, you need the guzzidiag program itself, then the proper reader and writer drivers for your bike's ecu model. The reader,writer, and guzzidiag program will each have a visible "exe" file, right click on that and select open or run (If I double clicked on Windows 10 to launch the program or driver the system would recognize it as a threat and delete the file,,aaarrrggg!) All my USB connections seemed to self connect, I just plugged it in, didn't have to do anything other than click ok or accept the port the system chose. I had trouble setting the CO trim on one map, but the 2nd map seemed fine,,,, other than the engine temp being 60 I ignored the prompts for kill switch engine off etc, seemed to work fine. Good luck Kelly

When I said muscle bound, I didn't mean roided and ripped. Resistance training by it's very nature is causing the muscle to repair itself and grow, it's part of what gives you that pumped up feeling after a workout. Free weights done correctly, help strengthen the muscle and surrounding structure, ligaments, supporting muscles etc, all the little bits working together to balance and hold and move the weight get stronger. If you're not careful, a resistance machine can cause problems, because it does the balancing and holding for you, it allows you to cheat and work the large muscle groups, but the intricate support systems around it, don't develop at the same rate. I hear you on the sedentary aspect, my biggest health challenges have all been a ripple effect from a change in lifestyle since I retired. Walking,stairs, bikes all good for legs; I walk and play with my dog now, and make sure that I keep my legs loose and stretched with a full range of motion. A simple complete leg routine, could be, leg presses, leg curls, leg extensions and calf raises, in that order, large to small muscles, but if you go that route a good walk before and after to warm up and cool down safely would be a good idea. Good luck Kelly

Iirc, I cleared one tps fault, that I attributed to me turning the tps minutes earlier while setting it to .157. The link to wg that Biesel posted, I had already printed out, but after reading it for the umpteenth time, I missed the little step of leaving the key/ignition on but turning off the kill switch when doing the changes. I had a very tough time getting guzzidiag to work smoothly for me, no matter how much I disabled virus ware/security settings etc, Windows 10 on my laptop kept shutting down and deleting the reader program, so when I finally got it connected and working right, I just jumped right into it. I was shocked how long it took to get the engine up to 60 degrees, but once it did, guzzidiag seemed like it was going to let me make the change and It looked so intuitive on the computer screen, but I think I short stroked it and missed the kill switch step. Tks Kelly

I'm reading your weight regimen, and I'm cringing,lol. I used to pound serious steel for many years,, but imo there comes a time when focused intense resistance training can be counter productive. I'm in my 60's now, the last thing I want to be be at this point is muscle bound, tight and inflexible. I eat well and take a variety of supplements, mindful as mentioned of potassium and magnesium to help keep muscles loose. Be mindful of gout and the subtle problems it can cause around joints. From a lifetime of sports and other injuries, I continually have to stretch and crack, neck, shoulders, ankle etc to keep limber, moving and pain free, recently I added minor core exercises to keep a hernia in check. Luckily a few years ago, when I had a flare up with a deteriorating disk/pinched nerve ,I found an extremely good chiro who literally straightened me out, and I only need his help and guidance very rarely to keep me going; your previous back injury is probably playing havoc down stream, a good chiro (can be rare to find) may help you work those kinks out. I'd be lightening and easing up on the weights and stretching that long nerve that runs down your back and hamstring. When I fist sit down on a tonti bike, the sharp knee angle usually causes my hip to go out, standing up and straightening the tension out usually settles things in place, maybe the next time you cramp, if you can, try standing up and working the tension out. fwiw good luck Kelly

I was using guzzidiag on the CalVin yesterday and I could see the CO trim in measurements and actors, it showed it was set at "0" but the system wouldn't let me change it? I had installed Beetle's latest map "CalVin 15RC special" which is supposed to have the lambda turned off in the map. In hind sight thinking about it, should I be going into guzzidiag and turning off lambda myself to enable the CO trim to be adjusted? Tks Kelly

Hey Chuck, Mine arrived the other day, beautiful piece of kit, tks very much for doing the heavy lifting to see this through to completion. As I sit here looking at that beautiful little piece of engineering, originally conceived and designed by LuckPhil, produced by Chuck, and reading through the extensive transmission related posts here on V11Lemans.com, it's a beautiful thing watching enthusiasts from literally the four corners of the globe sharing and supporting us guzzi owners, kudos to all involved. Respect and gratitude Kelly