80CX100

Hey Chuck, I agree with Pete; there is something about guzzis and air boxes & filters, Mandello has perfected the art of building motorcycles around them since 1921, lol. I was initiated on the Tonti cylinder style air filter on my CX100, I fought to change the filter, said screw this (like many others) and put on K&N's. Tonti, Spine, CARC they're all a pita in their own special unique way ;~) lol. Re the topic at hand, depending on the rubber part and location, I've used silicon grease, WD40 and Armor All, but as someone has already mentioned, heat works wonders, just like changing a tire,,, soft and pliable beats cold and stiff every time. Good luck with it Kelly

I'm thinking his fierce Italian pride probably hurt more than his bank account. Somehow I don't think that damage will just buff out,lol. Thanks for sharing that link.

Hammershaug, I feel for you, that's a lot of pain to process. While you're digesting all that life has thrown at you, please be mindful and careful. Hope your bike comes out the basement easily, and you get some quality time with it. Kelly

That sucks, but nice to know what the problem was, hopefully will save you grief getting it running well again good luck with it

Hey Docc, Tks for linking that post, it made for excellent reading, and with the help of google translate, those linked articles were a treat to read. You gotta love the passion of some of the Italians when it comes to designing and producing motorcycles, it's rare in this modern bean counting world.

It's only recently that I've noticed how sexy the curvy lines are on the V11s from the rear, but I must admit, I think there is a design conflict when the reflection behind you is measured in acreage not square inches, js,lol.

Antmanbee, I tried to send you a pm with copies of those maps, but it appears the system won't allow me to add the attachments and do it, send me a pm with an email address and I can send you what I have. I was always leary of those maps, because they don't have the "bin" extension that is normally visible in fuel maps I've seen, although when I saved them, my computer recognized them as guzzidiag files and saved them as such,fwiw. CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" & "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21 were apparently done by a WG member and installed on the CalVin owned by Geoff from Almonte on WG. I have since read correspondence that Beetle had possibly been involved in final fine tuning of those maps. Geoff sent me copies of those maps shortly before he sold the bike to a friend of mine. At some point in time I will be working on that bike. I went back over my emails with Beetle and it would appear that CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin is a further refinement of the DannyP-Mod12.bin map. Biesel, I've read some of the CalVin/H Pipe controversy; My own CalVin, which I believe has a stock OEM map didn't run bad, but it definitely seemed lean, and ran poorer when hot and at times it did seem to run hotter than normal, imho. The theories I've read and am trying to address with an H pipe, was that the collector 3rd muffler was blocking the free flow of hot exhaust gases contributing to the heat problem. Tks Kelly

I'm following this discussion very closely because I intend to upgrade the map on my CalVin asap, yesterday,lol.. Biesel or Antmanbee, do either of you know or can you tell if that map version of "CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin" from Beetle, was before or after he last upgraded it for DanNC on wildguzzi? Are either of you familiar with these maps and could possibly offer an opinion "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-F6E3.2016.07.28" & "CaliforniaVintage-FU2-4979.2016.06.21" On the bikes that you've tested the maps on, were the valves set for .1 & .15 mm? Any other variables that may have affected the performance ie, exhaust & intake mods or changes to tps or trim settings? My bike will have a Mistral H pipe with the lambda turned off, Mistral Classics for exhaust, stock intake; I was planning to install the latest version of CalVin_15RC_special-5.bin done for DanNC, and set my valves at .1 & .15 and a little richer on the TPS settings .157 & 500? and make sure my trim is at least in the positive 5? Thanks for testing and sharing the results Kelly

The danger with just flushing this thread, is the loss of the evidence of this steaming pile of pollyannic myopic Monday morning quarterback BS.

For now I'm still running 20w50 dino in my round heads, I don't know if I want to tempt the oil leak gods by running a full synth in them just yet,lol ;~) But I'm running the recommended 10w60 synth in my Griso & CalVin, and planning to use it as well in my V11. I don't want to put words in his mouth, but iirc Chuck has shared the opinion that any bike worth taking care of is worth running 10w60 in it. I can definitely see the merits of quick full lubrication when cold with the 10w aspect,,, and the heavy durable 60w aspect when it gets real hot and the engine is working hard. If the seals, gaskets and breathing are up to it, I wouldn't hesitate to use 10w60 synth, Fwiw ymmv Kelly

I was lucky, I had a big order from Mandello Italy to Canada, just before CV19; My orders from the US during CV19 have been a little slower, but steady and reliable except for one lengthy holdover in Chicago by USPS. The strangest delay was on an order from the US by Fedex, it came across the Canadian border quickly, then sat in a warehouse in Ottawa only 15 minutes from me for almost a week iirc. I think all delivery services are maxed out, but with modern tracking methods, seem to function with relatively rock solid reliability. It's been such a busy spring on many different fronts for me, I've barely had time to get to the bikes, the timing of the shipment should be just about right. Chuck, thanks very much taking this on and being so generous with your time and expertise. Much gratitude, respect and appreciation Tks Kelly

I'm not that familiar with ecu/efi or mechanics in general so I was reluctant to post, hoping that someone with more knowledge and insight might jump in; but I do own a CalVin and can give you some basics that may help you. The CalVin is basically a blend of 2 models, the chassis is like a California, but the engine ecu/efi is like a Breva 1100. You can apparently use guzzidiag on the CalVin in a similar fashion to the capabilities on the V11's; you don't get full access and control with it like you apparently do on a CARC bike. A factory defect that "all CalVins" ? shared, was the disintegrating fuel lines/pump assembly in the tank, one of the symptoms could be running out of gas at higher throttle levels as the fuel pressure leaks out inside the tank at higher levels, inform yourself and ensure that the fix has been done, lots of info on wildguzzi about it. Could the fuel line defect cause the pinging you are describing,,, possibly,,, I can get my CalVin to ping, if I'm a little lazy on my gearing, ie running the rpms too low, imho. They were known for lean mapping and running a bit hot, the 3rd muffler in the crossover is a bit of plug in the whole works, I'm in the process of replacing mine with an H pipe, fwiw. Dead batteries on CalVins, are usually caused by using the 55 watt driving lights, most guys swap them out for lower wattage or LED bulbs, I just make sure that I don't turn them on, I have no idea if their use could have contributed to your blown 30 amp fuse, idk. The ECU "should" be a 15RC, TPS measurements have to be taken with a voltmeter at the TPS connection, I used little copper wire jumper cables, but picked up a Caspers break out cable for future use. I think the proper TPS baseline and idle settings can be a somewhat fluid thing, but at this point it seems that a baseline setting of 150-157 mv and an idle setting of 485-500 mv should be in the right ball bark. Iirc. The consensus on the best tuneup guide seems to be this one http://www.bikeboy.org/tpssetting.html Beetle does have a map for the CalVin, and his improved tutorial on guzzidiag over on wildguzzi is the go to reference for any of this type of work, jmho. Like any tuneup on a guzzi, I like to start it with the valves adjusted and finish with the TB's or carbs sync'd. Good luck Kelly

That's too funny, but there is a lot of truth to it. I love red on a bike, as long as it doesn't clash or it's over done, fwiw. The Italian designers are pretty smart when it comes to making your heart go pitter patter. If you look at the most recent MG models, the ones that catch my eye, and most others,are the ones with the red accents; In conversation with other motorcyclists, they usually bring up the tastefully done red accents on the different mg models. I think the red accents, are a big part of the Greenies visual impact. I know the red accents on my black V11 Lemans make it much more appealing to my eye. Just for kicks, I ordered a nice set of angled valve stems for the wheels, they came in red, I couldn't resist, lol, sets off the plugs and the pork chops nicely. It not only draws your eyes into the bike, it's scientifically proven to be the fastest color ;~) To the OP, good luck and good times shopping, You'll know the bike for you when you see it Kelly

That was an impressive pile of bills for gadgets, glad it's his and not mine,lol. I think the wide bars and the mirrors let it down a bit, but those shots from the rear, with that rich deep burgundy and the black stripe, flowing through all those curves,,, from certain angles that is one sexy looking bike. js.

My first thought was TDC on the wrong stroke, you seem confident that's not the problem. As Pete says the heads should be re-torqued irregardless. With the timing of maximum lift apparently being off, is it possible that the timing chain is misaligned by a tooth or two on the camshaft or worn and badly stretched? fwiw Good luck Kelly

I just use a section of clear vinyl tube and a bottle as well. Re the frequency of changing the fluid, I normally would only do it when working on the lines/brakes/pads etc and have never noticed any sign of debris in the old fluid, but I had read about the fluid going bad quickly in the clutch lines on the Grisos. Sure enough, when I changed the fluids on my Griso, I got a fair amount of black debris out of the old fluid in the clutch line. I'm not sure if it's due to the design or the higher heat from closer proximity to the engine, but the fluid in the Griso clutch lines definitely goes bad quickly, the somewhat similar design in the V11 clutch lines may be an issue to keep in mind as well. fwiw Kelly

Whatever works for me as well Tks Kelly

I only have a 15kms test ride on my V11 Lemans, but I agree with Dave; compared to my Griso, albeit with risers & higher seat, the V11 felt like a nimbler smaller sport bike underneath me. fwiw Kelly

I love your bike, but admit to being biased, I recently purchased the exact same model and color, with bizarrely a similar back story of the one that almost got away. My low mileage 2003 V11 Lemans in black, had been for sale locally for a few years, but naturally I waited until it was bought and being resold 4 hrs away before I decided to buy it. Congrats on your new to you bike and welcome to the forum, you'll find the knowledge and community support here, second to none. Ride safe and often take care Kelly

Hey Phil, Tks for posting the article and the photos The innards on some of those engines are like beautiful works of art. It's hard to believe that something that looks like the workings of a fine Swiss watch, can power a race bike , screaming around a track. Kelly

I can't believe some of the bargains south of the border. Beautiful bike,very well bought

Posted 6 hours ago "Hey Docc, You're right I should have added the qualifier, " not to install poor quality timing gears." Iirc I think our bike engines evolved, from a design originally based around a good set of timing gears, and do well with a good quality refit. Quality comes at a price; I've never looked hard at them, but my impression is good timing gears are either rare or expensive. I'm not into rare and expensive, so I cheaped out on my bike and cut my own timing chain from Mercebes Benz stock, partly due to ease of sourcing in Canada. fwiw ymmv Kelly" Hey Phil, As noted, I should have expanded on my response, which I did, fwiw Kelly

Hey Docc, You're right I should have added the qualifier, " not to install poor quality timing gears." Iirc I think our bike engines evolved, from a design originally based around a good set of timing gears, and do well with a good quality refit. Quality comes at a price; I've never looked hard at them, but my impression is good timing gears are either rare or expensive. I'm not into rare and expensive, so I cheaped out on my bike and cut my own timing chain from Mercebes Benz stock, partly due to ease of sourcing in Canada. fwiw ymmv Kelly

Well if a picture is worth a thousand words, there's a gazillion reasons NOT to install timing gears. I don't think verbal restraint is one of Pete's endearing qualities,lol ;~) I always wondered what timing gear carnage would look like, now I know. Tks for sharing Kelly

Hey John Welcome aboard the V11Lemans train. Your reputation precedes you. There will come a time that I will have to crab one of my old Tontis and dive into the 5 speed transmission; it's a job waayyyy above my pay grade, but like many others , armed with patience and your instructions and guidance, that you've so generously shared, an impossible challenge becomes doable. My bike and I thank you for your meticulous work in putting this together and sharing it with the guzzi world http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzitech.dk/gb_en_complex-technical_gearbox-rebuilding- I look forward to reading more of your mechanical adventures as you get deep into the blood and guts of what makes these bikes work. Btw, Those are beautiful looking bikes. Welcome and thanks, stay safe and take care Kelly