80CX100

I'm definitely not a techno weanie, but I jumped into guzzidiag this spring and tuned my Griso first then my California Vintage. It took me quite a while to get a full connection and reading properly. When I first connected, I could see the ECU? but not the full details, took me a while to figure out my mistake. (sounds like you may be stuck at the same place?) Make sure that you have Guzzidiag loaded & running, but also make sure that you have the correct reader & writer drivers loaded and driver for the Lonelec Cable. Once I remembered to launch the additional drivers, I was completely into the ECU and could see everything. Once it was fully connected it was very intuitive. The Griso was a piece of cake, totally adjustable with guzzidiag. The TPS on the CalVin still had to be adjusted with a meter. I'm not sure but I think the process on the V11s is similar to this? Good luck with it. Kelly

Tks Jaap, Wood blocks should do it, I love the voice of experience. Due to time constraints, I'm abandoning plans to change the tires this fall, and am just going to get new fluids in the bike and hopefully get a few rides in before I set it up for the winter. I will make sure to update this post later with photos, so there is a record in case others are looking for the same solution. tks very much Kelly

Very nice bike. 43 yrs ago my very first street bike, a KZ400, was a grandfather to this model. I volunteer with the VRRA (vintage road racing association), that model bike is one of their favorite track bikes. Recently one of the best engine builders, Jamie Barkley? had a "very" worked on EX500 track bike for sale; I forget all the engine work and power numbers, but what was very impressive and would make it a blast to ride; he had the weight down to 325 lbs. They have a reputation for being an excellent, reliable, very easy to live with race bike. Enjoy it, it looks like a sweet ride. Kelly

Hey Chuck, I'm interested in what you mean by using a work stand to remove the rear wheel. I was shocked how rear biased the weight seemed to be on the bike when I had it up with the scissor jack under sump. As I attempted to pull out the rear wheel drop plate on my lift, I could feel the bike really trying to drop down in that hole. I was lucky to get the plate back in and avert disaster. I think securing the cylinders and scissor jack under the sump will work, but I'd love to have some real support under the rearward portion of the bike, rather than just depend on the cantilever effect of the straps pulling down in front of the jack, if I could mcgyver something. Kelly

I have a set of those Canyon Dancer straps that the PO graciously donated, it was the only way I could secure the bike in the wheel chock to get it home, they work well when the wheels are on the bike and sitting down on the table, with the front wheel in the vise; the problem, and it's one I've always struggled with, is transitioning to a secure position so I can remove both wheels to change the tires. Once I get the front wheel up in the air to remove it, those handlebar straps flop around way too much for my liking, fwiw. I've done the reverse the bike move to lock the rear wheel in the vise, which works well if I'm only taking the front wheel off, but something I've always struggled with, is that transition to secure it to enable both wheels to be removed, especially for tire changes. I've been through the experience of having a bike fall off the lift once, thankfully only at floor level, so I'm very gun shy at this point, I double, triple check every step of the way now. I think that Jaap's suggestion of strapping the cylinders (cold) and the scissor jack, will get me to where I want to be. Tks to everyone for passing on their knowledge and suggestions. Kelly

Now that is thinking outside the box, but I like it. I usually like to tie my bikes down, in such a way, that if want to start it up at the end I don't have to worry about heat touching my straps, but I definitely could make it secure wrapping straps around the cylinders when it's cold. Tks very much Kelly

Very interesting; as I go through the bike, I'm beginning to distrust anything the previous owner said or did. One thing I know he did do, is remove/reinstall the fairing, that'll give me a good opportunity to verify that work. Any tips or tricks to getting the fairing off? I learned about Suzki's magical plastic fastening system on my Vstrom AFTER I broke a few figuring out how they worked, ignorance isn't bliss,lol. I don't have access to rafters, but because I have to crab a frame on another bike at some point, I've already considered attaching some type of overhead rigging frame to my lift table. If you suspend the bike from above, where would you attach to the rear of the bike, remove the seat and use the upper frame rails? or would you hook into the frame around the rear foot pegs or side plates? Where would you attach at the front, fork tubes under the triple clamp? or down around the front frame down tubes near the header pipes? Tks very much for the info Kelly

Normally on my guzzis once I get them up on the lift table I secure them with tie downs anchored side to side, Front & back. If I'm planning to remove the wheels, I'll tie them off the same way, but also put them up on the center stand and use a scissor jack to get the front wheel high enough to remove. Due to the plastic on the V11 Lemans, I'm having a very tough time getting good secure spots to tie it down, and without a center stand the weight seems too far back and as I raise it on the scissor jack under the sump, it feels like the bike wants to flip over backwards. The manual describes placing a jack stand under the swing arm to hold it up, but that is covered with a flimsy looking plastic trim piece. Is there a simple method of tying it down and lifting it securely that I'm missing, or do you have to start removing plastic trim pieces to do that. I did a couple of searches and wasn't finding much info on it. tia Kelly

Hey Eric, For myself, if you've already got small shipping boxes for them, go ahead and send mine like that. If you don't have shipping boxes already, and it can be easily placed in a padded envelope, with cardboard/bubble wrap? That works for me too, and I'll roll the dice with USPS and Canada Post, I'm not worried about any money back from the difference in cost; I'm very grateful that you're doing this. Tks very much Kelly

Hey Eric, I was following the other Redux thread; I just wanted to confirm that you received my paypal to your email a few days ago. Please just send me a pm if it went through ok. Definitely no rush, I just wanted to confirm it wasn't lost in cyber space,lol. Tks very much to you and everyone else involved to see it through to the end. Kelly

Hey Chuck, If another batch of the improved springs ever gets done, definitely count me in for 2,,, one for the tranny,,, and to keep it from breaking,,, another one for the tool kit,lol. Hey po18guy; I agree with you,,, that was a major thread to digest,,, but what a glowing testament to the guzzi community, and the lengths that they will go to, to help each other. Kelly

As I work through the info here learning what I'll need to keep my new to me V11 Lemans going, I read this thread and saw this break out cable. The question I have for those in the know; I'm relatively new at working on EFI ECU bikes, but recently tuned both the Griso and the California Vintage. The Griso was comparatively easier, because I could adjust the TPS right in the ECU with GuzziDiag; but I found setting the TPS using strands of copper wire inserted in the TPS connection on the CalVin to be a bit of a pita to take the readings with my voltmeter. I'm assuming this little break out cable would make that much easier to do. Will it fit and work on my Cal Vin as well as the V11? Tia Kelly

Hey Footgoose, Tks very much; I'm making up a to do and parts list, but that's definitely the plan. I'd love to end up with a good one in the bike and a "talisman" spare in the toolkit; just to keep Murphy at bay,lol. Kelly

Just thinking out loud,,, do some of the V11's suffer from the disintegrating fuel lines inside the tank like some of the later guzzis? Hope your gremlin is gone for good,,, or at least returns at a more convenient time. Good luck with it Kelly

I realize I'm late to the party on this one, but if anyone, particularly in Canada ended up a spring to spare from this batch, please pm me I'd love to have one on hand in case my new to me, 2002 Lemans throws a hissy fit. I may start another thread at some point, but from what I've learned on this thread, is that the larger 16 mm spring boss in the later models is contributing to spring failure. Would it be a good game plan to open up the tranny, verify and reduce that spring boss if needed to 15 mm as a preventative measure,,, not matter what new spring I have in hand? Tia Kelly

I'm a little late into the game with this V11Lemans, so I missed out on the recent Skud/Chuck tranny spring fix, but I'm not missing out on this,lol. Tks to all involved who enabled Pete's fine work to continue on; what a lovely looking piece of kit. I haven't watched Dave's video yet (tks for posting) I realize the gaskets that I need as well, I thought I remembered reading something somewhere about "o rings" possibly being needed? Pressureangle, I'll send you a pm with details for shipping to Canada. It;s my first pm on this system, hope it goes through ok. Tks Kelly

Hey Dave, I ended up picking up that 2003 V11 Lemans that I was musing about on WG a while back. While getting info together for a "to do" list on this bike, I stumbled on this thread and recalled you mentioning there may be a deal in the works on the on the Roper plates. Here I am in all my glory as a new forum member,lol. Please add my name to the list for a Roper plate order. Tks to you for taking this on, and to Pete, as always, doing what's right to help us keep these guzzis running well and reliably. Tia Kelly White ps I know it didn't happen if there's no pictures, so fwiw